///DR's Fanatec Clubsport Pedals Tuning Kit Review/Guide\\\

Hollidog
Is this compatible with a G25/7? If not, is there a similar product around for these wheels?
Click to expand...

No, it's not.

The Clubsport Pedals, and therefore the CSP Tuning Kit, are only available for use with Fanatec wheels.

There are many different mods for G27 pedals. Inverting, Nixim brake mod, Super Pedal mod, etc...

However, there isn't a "tuning kit" for the G25/G27 that I have ever come across.




;)
 
zacharyPL
hello,
I have a problem with the pedals CSP, it seems that even support Fanatec can not solve it. Maybe someone on the Farum has any solution to this problem? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-q8Q9Sk_Zs
Click to expand...
I know this should not be happening at all, but increasing deadzone on the break pedal could maybe fix your problem without having ANY negative effects. This can be done with a firmware update (you pick deadzone from 0 to 10). I know it's not the simplest fix, but I'd give it a try.
 
zacharyPL
hello,
I have a problem with the pedals CSP, it seems that even support Fanatec can not solve it. Maybe someone on the Farum has any solution to this problem? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-q8Q9Sk_Zs
Click to expand...

Send that video to Fanatec. If they don't replace your CSP's, I would be very surprised.

I have had issues with the load cell before. Made a video, sent it in to Fanatec, and voila new CSP's in the mail.



;)
 
Delphic Reason
Send that video to Fanatec. If they don't replace your CSP's, I would be very surprised.

I have had issues with the load cell before. Made a video, sent it in to Fanatec, and voila new CSP's in the mail.



;)
Click to expand...

Just recently been repaired my steering wheel, which lost its central position. Together with the steering, I sent in for repair pedals. Returned only lubricated but not repaired.
I'm still waiting for the return shipping costs. This should be done differently, Fanatec should arrange a courier.👎
I must admit I'm disappointed with how the complaint goes.
 
zacharyPL
Just recently been repaired my steering wheel, which lost its central position. Together with the steering, I sent in for repair pedals. Returned only lubricated but not repaired.
I'm still waiting for the return shipping costs. This should be done differently, Fanatec should arrange a courier.👎
I must admit I'm disappointed with how the complaint goes.
Click to expand...

With all due respect, did you send them this video? If you haven't, you're paddling against the current.

Send them the video, and request they be replaced.

Simple as.

I've never had a single problem with Fanatec customer service, personally. However, I understand many have. If you take a few simple steps (like sending a detailed video) and make your problem clear, they should have no problem replacing your pedals. After all, they are clearly faulty.



;)
 
Is there a good video out there that shows these modifications, including the installation of the brass bushings, and the disconnection of the wires? My tuning kit is coming and I want to be sure I am not flying in the dark. Thomas' video is excellent, but it does not show how to disconnect the wires, nor does it show how to install the brass bushings in the kit.

Thanks!
 
Hi, DRs method prob easyist & quickist method.
Got to be very very careful of the wires (at all times consider where they are, at that moment in time), i removed Brake Load Cell to Potensiometer wire (seemed easy to break/ detach from Load Cell).

I removed Foot Plate at front of CSP's first (3 x CSK Screw's), you can disconnect cables then, but tricky & no need to really, unless at some point you feel required to, disconnect one etc.

Then Remove 2 x CSK's as DR ie to remove steel bar that Pedals, pivot around.
Careful lifting, then removing bar (Wires, Wires, Wires)
, it can be tight. Keep all Aluminium spacers in order. All Pedals will fall off. lay down so they don't damage anything etc.

Brass Bushes, as prev said, seem to have a larger shoulder, might be small, but when all 6 installed, can make it a very tight fit. For me it even made Accelerator pedal, be very tight, spring wouldn't even bounce it back. So had to dis-assemble again. So well worthwhile, to first give shoulder on brass bushes a light rubbing down with emery cloth/ paper. You don't have to go over the top thou (maybe 30sec or so rub). You can also do same on Alli spacers, if only for same reason to remove, or slightly flatten any slight burr's/ M/Cing marks.
Try all Brass Bushes on Steel bar, make sure they all slide freely on it, all the way. My steel bar, right at the very end (well at inside point end of flat section) , even had a slight M/Cing ridge/burr or was slightly over dia at a small point. Making all Brass Bushes very tight just at this point, even un moveable. This point was under a Alli spacer anyway, but unfortunately for me, this was end i started threaded everything back onto :) . So i just gave steel bar at this point a bit of a rub down, till all bushes slide all the way along bar, freely.
You don't want to be struggling putting it all back together, thats prob when you could forget about the wires :)

Regards Lubbing up :) , at least for Brake Pedal. I used the light mineral oil ? for 'first in' steel pressure pin, then Silicon Grease ? for Foam (rub well into Foam), then Mineral Oil again for Brake activator ? rod, right recipe of Lubes mixing about in cylinder :)


Cheers BOB
 
bibio
Hi, DRs method prob easyist & quickist method.
Got to be very very careful of the wires (at all times consider where they are, at that moment in time), i removed Brake Load Cell to Potensiometer wire (seemed easy to break/ detach from Load Cell).

I removed Foot Plate at front of CSP's first (3 x CSK Screw's), you can disconnect cables then, but tricky & no need to really, unless at some point you feel required to, disconnect one etc.

Then Remove 2 x CSK's as DR ie to remove steel bar that Pedals, pivot around.
Careful lifting, then removing bar (Wires, Wires, Wires)
, it can be tight. Keep all Aluminium spacers in order. All Pedals will fall off. lay down so they don't damage anything etc.

Brass Bushes, as prev said, seem to have a larger shoulder, might be small, but when all 6 installed, can make it a very tight fit. For me it even made Accelerator pedal, be very tight, spring wouldn't even bounce it back. So had to dis-assemble again. So well worthwhile, to first give shoulder on brass bushes a light rubbing down with emery cloth/ paper. You don't have to go over the top thou (maybe 30sec or so rub). You can also do same on Alli spacers, if only for same reason to remove, or slightly flatten any slight burr's/ M/Cing marks.
Try all Brass Bushes on Steel bar, make sure they all slide freely on it, all the way. My steel bar, right at the very end (well at inside point end of flat section) , even had a slight M/Cing ridge/burr or was slightly over dia at a small point. Making all Brass Bushes very tight just at this point, even un moveable. This point was under a Alli spacer anyway, but unfortunately for me, this was end i started threaded everything back onto :) . So i just gave steel bar at this point a bit of a rub down, till all bushes slide all the way along bar, freely.
You don't want to be struggling putting it all back together, thats prob when you could forget about the wires :)

Regards Lubbing up :) , at least for Brake Pedal. I used the light mineral oil ? for 'first in' steel pressure pin, then Silicon Grease ? for Foam (rub well into Foam), then Mineral Oil again for Brake activator ? rod, right recipe of Lubes mixing about in cylinder :)


Cheers BOB
Click to expand...
Why the reluctance to unhook the wires ? Has there been more than one report of breakage, or even one, when removing them ? Thanks
 
I think I am going to order it as soon as ah-bull post impressions. What are the 6 pedal axis bearings for if currently the pedals include it?...

Thanks for the review DR.
 
Jose'
I think I am going to order it as soon as ah-bull post impressions. What are the 6 pedal axis bearings for if currently the pedals include it?

Thanks for the review DR.
Click to expand...

Originally, the stock bushings were plastic. The brass bushings in the kit provide smoother response and much longer life.

I believe the tuning kit has changed somewhat. If anyone has any pics of the redesigned kit, I will add it to the first post.



;)
 
Hi, you can take wires off if you want. Potensiometer ones look a bit tricky thou. Ones on Magnetic sensors as well, have to slide back plastic cover, then pull out mini connector. But there all a bit tight & it seems like your going to pull all connector block off PCB, before connector comes out. So i left wires on, apart from Load Cell one. Also at least when CSP's assembled, there also a bit tricky to get at to pull off etc. Even when wires off, theres still connector boxes you can knock. You could take wires off main large circuit board (under footplate), some might not like messing in there, you would gain a bit ie you can lift all pedal assembly away. but still not ideal + remember where all connectors go back.
If your not replacing Brass bushes, you can do Thomas's way ie remove back pedal support bar. Be careful with that ie make sure CSK screwed into steel bar are not blocked by Alliminium sideplates. Note also this assembly is connected to feet, which are held to sideplate by the CSK + Nut, + a CSK stud actally inside of frame. Someone posted had a bit of trouble doing it, nearly stripping thread off one of screws i think.
So be careful, whatever way you do anything, if you find a easy way to do something or even find a prob, Post :)



Cheers BOB

Edit just seen this useful pic, posted orig, by the looks by AGP5000, pic of 'Pesky little CSK screw' , that can be hard to remove, fit back etc.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=203494&page=27
 
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bibio
Hi, you can take wires off if you want. Potensiometer ones look a bit tricky thou. Ones on Magnetic sensors as well, have to slide back plastic cover, then pull out mini connector. But there all a bit tight & it seems like your going to pull all connector block off PCB, before connector comes out. So i left wires on, apart from Load Cell one. Also at least when CSP's assembled, there also a bit tricky to get at to pull off etc. Even when wires off, theres still connector boxes you can knock. You could take wires off main large circuit board (under footplate), some might not like messing in there, you would gain a bit ie you can lift all pedal assembly away. but still not ideal + remember where all connectors go back.
If your not replacing Brass bushes, you can do Thomas's way ie remove back pedal support bar. Be careful with that ie make sure CSK screwed into steel bar are not blocked by Alliminium sideplates. Note also this assembly is connected to feet, which are held to sideplate by the CSK + Nut, + a CSK stud actally inside of frame. Someone posted had a bit of trouble doing it, nearly stripping thread off one of screws i think.
So be careful, whatever way you do anything, if you find a easy way to do something or even find a prob, Post :)



Cheers BOB

Edit just seen this useful pic, posted orig, by the looks by AGP5000, pic of 'Pesky little CSK screw' , that can be hard to remove, fit back etc.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=203494&page=27
Click to expand...


That little screw, and it's positioning under the metal spacer, is one of the only truly bad design choices of the CSP's.



;)
 
Hi, iv'e some Allen Keys etc, that can get to it, but main thing i guess is, is Aliminium spacer, which can get in the way ie block it coming out. If you need it out, prob 2 ways, one slacken CSK screw(& nut on inside), outside, & foot will/ try to move a bit, to get clearance. Or remove other CSK studs that hold back bar in place, pull up that, to get to those pesky studs.
To be honest, can't see why in someways they are there, if not for adjustability, which they ain't, front footplates don't have them. Yet again front footplates are locked by foot rest Alli plate. Prob both there to make it a bit more solid.
IMO not really a prob, just take apart best way for you, being Careful :)
Solid Mech wise, just be a bit careful of PC electric's, because of efforts mech wise, maybe .



Cheers BOB
 
Ok, so I finally got around installing the kit after some months of dust collecting.

I used the clutch 30% less for the gas.
PERFECT

I used the clutch 30% more for the clutch.
PERFECT.

I used the 24mm rod and the bigger and tighter foam for the brake.
WAIT A SEC....

The brakes feels to soft compared to the other two pedals.
Mmmhhh.

What did I do?

Simple, cut the clutch spring normal at 25-30%, take out the rod of the brakepedal (tube holding the spring)
I grinded off a mm of the rod at the end.
Put the spring in, and ... mmmhhh can't feel the foam.
Replaced the rod which comes after the foam with the longer one 24->30mm.

Reassemble.

PERFECT.


Note to Thomas : include a stronger brake spring, it would really fit in the tuning kit.

Otherwise people need to mod.

But it was worth the little work.
I race with shoes, and it feels like a real car now.

I can post a photo if someone is interested
 
You're still using the brake pivot arm in the stock, lower hole, right? If you mov it up one hole, it really firms up the pedal. I actually ended up using the shorter brake rod from the tuning kit, to find a happy balance. You may want to play with that.

Here's how I'd sum it up: Stock, untuned brake is soft, like in many economy cars. Stock brake but with the pivot arm up one hole is very stiff, like a racing setup. Short brake rod with the pivot arm up one feels like the brake from a performance street car.
 
12thgear
You're still using the brake pivot arm in the stock, lower hole, right? If you mov it up one hole, it really firms up the pedal. I actually ended up using the shorter brake rod from the tuning kit, to find a happy balance. You may want to play with that.

Here's how I'd sum it up: Stock, untuned brake is soft, like in many economy cars. Stock brake but with the pivot arm up one hole is very stiff, like a racing setup. Short brake rod with the pivot arm up one feels like the brake from a performance street car.
Click to expand...

Did you keep the stock foam and/or try a different foam piece to get your above posted results? Thanks

Scotty
 
scoddee
Did you keep the stock foam and/or try a different foam piece to get your above posted results? Thanks

Scotty
Click to expand...

I reused the stock foam. I did take the opportunity to clean and relube parts, however.
 
I finally used the parts in the tuning kit to rebuild my Clubsport pedals today. I installed the brass bushings. I also added stiffer springs for both the gas and clutch. I installed the stiffer foam for the brake and lubed it up using the provided lube. And finally, I cleaned and oiled everything. The pedals feel better than ever. Very smooth, I have a lot more faith that they will last a long time.

Pulling the pedals apart is complicated, mainly because I did not want to damage the electronics. For those that are comtemplating these upgrades, view Delphic's directions carefully, particularly the video from Thomas showing how to pull the pedals apart. What Thomas' video does not cover, however, is how to unplug the electronics. To do that, I just took it slow and tried to understand how everything worked and connected together.

Thanks for the excellent instructions and thread Delphic. And, thanks to Fanatec for designing and selling such excellent pedals!
 
Thanks a lot for putting this guide together.

It may be over a year old, but I've just got into this **** since the Elite came out and found it really useful.

Second day on the CSPs and loving them thanks to your post.

I like a firmer brake, but didn't know if my sim seat's pedal plate could take the pressure. To be honest, I was even feeling a little pressured by the hardcore guys to move it up for the second position, but thankfully your medium throw, longer bar, lower pin method was the perfect solution.

Hats off.


Cheers,

Snotty
 
you need to remove the tension then the rod will pop out, theres two bolts at the back of the gas pedal, turn the top one anti-clockwwise so it moves towards the spring, it should hit the other bolt(if not already) then the whole rod will begin to unscrew itself from the shiny piece of metal which holds the magnetic rod. eventyally it will come out and then you will have access to the rod. if you want shorter throw i made mine shorter by moving the bolts in the above fashion just to the point where the fat rod inside the spring was just connected to the shiny piece by only a few threads.
 
Anyone have the link the to thread where the pictures of Load-Cell dial were posted. On my earlier CSP version the area is blank metal and I want to print out that picture and tape it so i can work on adjusting the load-cell with a better idea of where it is tuned. I did a search in this forum, but of the 20 threads I scanned none had the jpeg or gif i remember seeing about a year ago. Thanks in advance.
 
jwiii
Anyone have the link the to thread where the pictures of Load-Cell dial were posted. On my earlier CSP version the area is blank metal and I want to print out that picture and tape it so i can work on adjusting the load-cell with a better idea of where it is tuned. I did a search in this forum, but of the 20 threads I scanned none had the jpeg or gif i remember seeing about a year ago. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Clubsport_Mod_Template-final.jpg


https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=131527
 
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