Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar

  • Thread starter Punknoodle
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It's on the Dyno:

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http://www.facebook.com/MercuryMotorsportAustralia/posts/10151309227976707:0

No word yet on power, will find that out most likely tomorrow..
 
Woot! So when are you taking me for a ride?:sly: There's always a lot of excitement around when a car is about to get back on the road.:D
 
Yeah eager to see what you managed to push out of it finally 👍


But where are the harnesses to secure the car ??? :lol:
 
So, I have the car back on the road, finally!

Picked it up from Mercury this afternoon. I had a word to the guy doing the tuning, about how the car went, where it can be improved, etc. Surprisingly, he said that the head is flowing quite well, as I was worried that it being the older generation of head, it would be affecting it. He said going to a new head would definitely give more power, especially with aggressive cams etc, but the biggest issue right now is the turbo. It is limited to 16 psi being a ceramic turbine, which is great for response, but top end power could be better.

He also said the charge cooler isn't that effective. Going to a front mount intercooler would be much better, and would be a must if I ever upgraded the turbo again. It's still better than the air to air that was on there, but could be better.

However, it is still putting out what I think is fairly acceptable numbers for a stock (albiet later model) turbo. As you can see with the graph below, the turbo held boost all the way through to redline, which is something the old CT26 would never have been able to do. The old one was maxxed at just below 15 psi, and would drop off well before redline. It also doesn't creep - showing that my new dump pipe and ported wastegate are flowing well enough.

The response is a LOT better. Driving the car, the instant spool up and acceleration the car has is so much better, due to the ignition timing of the new ECU, and the bigger turbine wheel of the CT20b turbo. It also feels a lot stronger all through the rev range. Doesn't splutter or miss any more :)

I'm very, very happy. I have to get used to the new sounds. You can actually hear the wastegate actuator opening and shutting now, its a strange sound! Although there are 2 minor problems. The first, is as I was driving away, the ECU diagnostic light came on. I called the tuner, he said it happened on the dyno, but everything was working ok, and that he forgot to follow up on the cause, but that he would look up the logs and have a look. When I got home, I fired up the laptop and connected up to the ECU, and I saw it had some kind of warning for the MAP sensor. I rang him again and told him, he said it doesn't sound like a big deal, but just bring the car in when I get a chance and he'll plug it in and have a look.

The second issue, was that they noticed an oil leak, around the oil filter attachment area. This concerned me, as I KNOW I didn't have a leak before. I checked the oil level and it appears fine, but I can see the oil on the block where they are talking about. I'm going to degrease it later tonight, wash it off then keep my eye on it. Hopefully it isn't a major, I doubt it is.

Anyway, here's the graph - 157.8 kW at all four wheels...

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Edit: Degreased the block, went for a drive, had a look. Looks like the oil is coming from the head gasket. That's not good. There doesn't appear to be coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant, so it just looks like it's seeping out the side. So I'll keep an eye on it but looks like I'll be splitting the engine and changing the gasket.

I was on a high but now I'm on a low. Why is there ALWAYS something, seriously? At least it's something I can do myself. Not a small job though.
 
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Cool car man, congrats on getting it on teh dyno and tuned. I would ahve expected more power, any idea what the drivetrain loss is on that thing? 15-20%?
 
Ohh that sucks about the gasket.


Your powerband looks nice.

What is the torque? Have a diagram for that?
 
No diagram for torque, no. On a 4wd, especially an old one like mine I'd expect the losses to be higher than 20%, I'd say at least 30%. Anyway, factory they are about 200hp at the crank. So to be now making around 210hp at the wheels is a big improvement.

I dare say the gasket issue is from it sitting for 6 months :(

It's not the end of the world though!
 
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Decent power, near identical to my brother's VN V6, hope you can get the gasket sorted without any drama.👍
 
Yeah it's not bad. The improved response is the main reason it's better.

Anyway, I have something to share that blows any car stuff out of the water..

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I'm gonna be a daddy again!
 
Hahaha.

In other news, false alarm. It's not the head gasket. It's a slight leak from the rocker cover gasket. That's an EASY fix :D
 
Good to see everything is turning out well for you.

You have one of the nicest ST185s I've seen.

Nice power curve. Its always good to have a responsive engine.
 
Cheers mate. There is still a couple things I'll be doing to it soon. I have a new diff mount on the way, which also comes with new subframe bushes. I'm hoping it solves a rear end clunk issue the car has when sometimes going forward after going back. The diff mount is a common issue on the ST185.

I plan on removing the sub frame completely, removing the drive shaft and changing the centre bearings on the drive shaft when it's happening.

Also going to finally get the windscreen resealed as the squeaking it makes when driving is really annoying.

And in the next week or so I'll be removing the rocker cover and resealing that, too, to get rid of the leak.

Other than that, just gonna enjoy it for a while and not do anything massive, especially with a baby on the way :)
 
Thanks Paulie, so when are we gonna do this drive? I had a little drive around Mt Tamborine tonight - it's pretty rough from the storms so won't be going there again any time soon.
 
Congratulations with the pregnancy :D Considering you said again, I assume it isn't your first time so I won't spend time warning/worrying you with stuff :D
 
Whoa, Congrats for babies. :)

But as far as your car goes, thats not too bad at all. 👍

And then there "Always being something wrong" You have a 15+yr old car, how do you think I feel?:lol:
 
Haha yeah, it was just frustrating coz I've tried to keep on top of things fairly well and do things properly, and when I thought it was the HG, after already putting so much effort in to swapping the turbo I was pretty devastated!

I've got the valve cover off now, will be reinstalling it tomorrow night - hopefully that'll sort it.
 
Today was a bad day. I went through the hassle of removing my valve cover and resealing it, I reinstalled it and gave it a day to set, drove it again and I still have an oil leak. Well today I found the reason...

I have a crack in my Cylinder Head. I need a new one. Yep, sucks. It must have been soft or something, and the installation of the new turbo just cracked it - I know I didn't put too much strain on the bolts.

So I am now hunting for a replacement. I plan on going with a Gen 2 head (as the Gen 3 would require me to change my manifolds and water pump, hard lines, blah blah blah, whereas the Gen 2 will bolt right up). I am looking at buying new valves, seals, springs, shim less buckets and 264 degree cams, and getting it nicely ported before I install it..
 
Ever so slightly reminds me of the time I forgot to put a pilot bearing in a fwd 4AG going into a rwd corolla, although I'd venture to say it was easier for me to pull that engine than it will be for you to pull the head. Sucks. :(
 
Well to be honest, I'm considering just pulling the whole engine, as going to the effort of building a nice head without checking the rest of the motor may be counter intuitive. I have forged pistons and shot peened rods, but I'm considering changing the rods to forged, and then getting new race bearings, changing the welsh plugs and freshening up the bottom end too. Prevention is better than cure, as they say. Be easier to install the timing belt etc with the engine out too, last time it was a complete PITA.

Just need to save up some coin to do it properly.
 
It does, but these things happen.. While I save to build up this high performance head, I still want to be able to drive the car. Well, the oil isn't mixing with the coolant, and I still have good compression and no oil going through the engine, so I'm sure the crack is on the outside wall only. So as a temporary fix I'm going to try and seal the crack with JB Weld. I'll let you know how it goes.

I think I have found a good Gen 2 head, so hopefully I can strike a good deal on that and start ordering some goodies for it. HKS 264° high lift cams are fairly pricey, but offer a good profile for a stock to mild turbo set up. 272° cams really require a larger turbo to make the most of them. The 264s will still give a slight lope at idle, which will sound mean, and will shift the power curve up high a little more, but hopefully with good ECU tuning produce some healthy power.

Oh, and in other news, to make myself feel better and feel like I am making SOME progress with the car and not only going backwards, I made an appointment to get a new windscreen as the one that is in it has a small crack, and when I drive around it squeaks a lot, which goes away when you put pressure on the windscreen. It isn't coming from the crack, it's coming from where it seals on to the car. Really annoying. So tomorrow it will be gone and I'll be able to drive around without hearing constant squeaking!
 
Have you pulled the engine on this car prior to this and how would you go about doing it? Separating from the transaxle and out the top or dropping everything as one big unit out the bottom? I've always found it easiest to drop it out of the bottom as one piece, on fwd cars that is. I've never pulled anything from an awd car but I can't imagine it being much different. I just hate trying to fit the engine in itself and line it up with the transaxle in the car, especially when it's a transverse layout.
 
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