Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar

  • Thread starter Punknoodle
  • 1,059 comments
  • 146,412 views
As I already have a top feed rail and have made my lines and adapted the fittings to AN anyway there isn't much point in buying a whole new rail, getting the holes enlarged will be a fairly simple and inexpensive exercise.
 
I've been looking at my thread, and discovered that sadly because I've been too busy working on the car instead of enjoying it that the only pictures I've been posting of late are pictures of the engine bay, or detail shots of boring things like injectors :lol:

So, here's an image I found lying around of the car and my friend's bike that we modified together:

GT_Four_Bike_A_zps02bb8e02.jpg
 
Just a quick update, I'm on the other side of the country for the next few weeks finishing up a big job over here in Perth, but my friend back in Brisbane is picking up my turbo for me, which is ready, along with all the parts from Toyota which are also ready so that when I get back we can get straight in to swapping the turbo. I will take the fuel rail in to get machined as soon as I get back as well, which should only take a day or so..

So with that in mind I've booked the car in to get flogged on the dyno for a few days to get it all tuned! I'm using Mercury Motorsport, and Monday 18th Feb is the day it goes in, which gives me around 2 weeks to get it done from when I get back. They want it for 3 days so that they can be thorough with things like Cold Start, etc. Good to know they won't be rushing it.

On Friday 22nd Feb there is a Test N Tune night a Willowbank drag strip, which I'm planning on taking the car to so I can run it down the strip to test out the new ECU/Turbo set up. Can't wait! I'll get a friend to take videos..
 
Test N Tune on a Friday?:odd: Normally they're Wendesdays and Saturdays, but if you're going hit me up, I'll come out for a gander.
 
Ok so I'm very close to securing an absolute beauty of a deal on one of these:
HAL_iq3a.jpg

It's a Haltech / Racepak IQ3 Logger dash, which just plugs in directly via CAN to my Haltech ECU and can be set up to display whatever you want, as well as perform logging of any channels of information as well as GPS position, speed etc. So in other words I can go to the track, log my laps and get a display of the track and information like throttle percentage, speed etc referenced to track position. Complete overkill but so damn cool :)
 
Ok so I'm very close to securing an absolute beauty of a deal on one of these:

It's a Haltech / Racepak IQ3 Logger dash, which just plugs in directly via CAN to my Haltech ECU and can be set up to display whatever you want, as well as perform logging of any channels of information as well as GPS position, speed etc. So in other words I can go to the track, log my laps and get a display of the track and information like throttle percentage, speed etc referenced to track position. Complete overkill but so damn cool :)

But, it's not entirely overkill. It's useful. I've been in go-karts that have and haven't had them. Granted, it's not a full dash display, but, RPM, lap time, speed, and such is the most crucial part of any awesome track-ish car, or even go-kart. The ones without it gave me no clue about lap times during my quali session, so I couldn't get an accurate read-out...
 
It is a full dash display, it can read up to 32 channels from the ECU over CAN which you can set up however you like, as in where you want the information displayed etc, and you can scroll through 4 pages to display the information. And it has programmable shift lights, warning lights with information that scrolls displaying what the warning is for, etc.

Yes, useful. But not necessary for the occasional track day :)
 
Oh, occasional enough that it's worth paying for to get accurate lap times. It's a ripper deal but it is still expensive lol.
 
They want it for 3 days so that they can be thorough with things like Cold Start, etc. Good to know they won't be rushing it.

Winter is the best time to tune for the most important part of tuning. 👍


Damn.. Fell through. That's disappointing. Normal old stop watch for the time being, then.

That's too bad but maybe you'll look into other options

stackdisplay.jpg


stackdisplay4.jpg


You've probably already seen this guys build but man his cars awesome.
 
Last edited:
In Qld it honestly doesn't make all that much difference :)

Yeah, seen his build, don't like those dashes though. The thing I wanted most out of the dash was the lap timing and logging, plus I just like the design of the digital one, the CAN connection to the Haltech is easy as well, so no need to do a whole wiring loom, one plug and viola, all the information from the ECU is there. It's ok, if I ever come in to money I'll just pay full whack for one.
 
Punknoodle
I just like the design of the digital one

I've always prefered the analog especially on Stack's stepper motors. Super quick and precise.

Punknoodle
...the CAN connection to the Haltech is easy as well, so no need to do a whole wiring loom, one plug and viola, all the information from the ECU is there.

THE thing that disencourages me from getting a Stack cluster for my car.

It would probably be the coolest, most useless, and close to the most expensive modification I could/have done to my car :lol:
 
Last edited:
Yeah they are pretty awesome. Makes the car feel like a real racecar haha. The full price for the Haltech Racepak IQ3 logger dash here in Australia is just under $2000, which is an awful lot of money, but the logging and GPS lap timing is very impressive and desirable. One day. They might have some crazy promotion or something :)
 
I went through each page and I have to say that I am in love with your car. Impressive! I've always been a big fan of these Celicas. Love that plate too. 👍
 
I have a question for experts who may have dealt with this issue before!

When I still had my OEM map sensor installed, in the line running to it was a small filter. My understanding of this is it limits the amount of crap that can get in to the sensor, as well as smoothing the air flow in the event of a backfire which can damage the unit.

I know of a couple of people on different forums that have discarded this filter for whatever reason and the MAP sensor has crapped itself.

I have received information from Haltech that the onboard MAP sensor on the PS1000 doesn't need ANY filtering, however I see advice from some tuners that they run a mini fuel filter in line as it removes any deposits in the line, and the volume of the filter acts as a plenum which smoothes the air flow giving more stable readings.

So, to filter or not to filter? A filter is like 2 bucks so it has nothing to do with the cost or effort, I'm simply asking to see what others have done..
 
I've had my ecu for over a year now without a filter but I'm also not running forced induction which would make it harder for debris to get in. Nevertheless it sounds like a great idea and I'm going to install one asap.
 
I've had my ecu for over a year now without a filter but I'm also not running forced induction which would make it harder for debris to get in. Nevertheless it sounds like a great idea and I'm going to install one asap.

How long is the run from manifold to ECU in your application? Apparently in terms of smoothing the readings it is most beneficial for short runs or vehicles with lumpy cams etc where there is quite a fluctuation in air flow.

I wonder if it will effect your tune having a filter in the line, you may have to adjust it slightly.
 
I've never used any type of filter to a MAP sensor before. Considering its routed to the intake manifold post intake air filter, I never bothered. Only thing I've ever had to use is a restrictor "pill" in between the intake manifold and MAP sensor. This would smooth out any big jumps or dips in pressure to the MAP. Something with about a .035" hole, like a nitrous jet works well.

Even then it seems like that issue really only comes up using the OEM hardware on 80's/90's turbo cars. Or they had a restrictor pill from the factory inline to the MAP and someone decided to take out when replacing vacuum line now the stock ECU reads an overboost situation and goes into fuel cut, hahaha. Go hack mechanics... thanks for keeping me in business...
 
That's really useful information mate. I seemed to think it was predominantly that era of car too. I've read about a few MAP sensors being destroyed when the restrictor wasn't used. Guess they have a lot better technology now days..

I'll run without a filter/restrictor then like Haltech advised as it's a pretty long run to my ECU anyway, in terms of fluctuations, I think that is more of an issue on short runs.
 
Punknoodle
That's really useful information mate. I seemed to think it was predominantly that era of car too. I've read about a few MAP sensors being destroyed when the restrictor wasn't used. Guess they have a lot better technology now days..

I'll run without a filter/restrictor then like Haltech advised as it's a pretty long run to my ECU anyway, in terms of fluctuations, I think that is more of an issue on short runs.

Vacuum line length and MAP sensor changes definitely play a role. I don't plan on using a pill with my PS1000 onboard MAP either due to the length of the vacuum line.

I built a 440cid LSX big nitrous engine for a customer once that needed a pill since our MAP was mounted on the intake manifold and line length was very short. Hit the spray and the pressure spikes and dips were a mess. If you tune VE as we did for that engine, your tuner will appreciate the accurate MAP readings. :)
 
Well I have a base map loaded in to it from a 3SGTE that was tuned in VE, I just had to change the injector size, dead time map and I/O assignments but I'm hoping it'll start when I give it a go.
 
I've had my ecu for over a year now without a filter but I'm also not running forced induction which would make it harder for debris to get in. Nevertheless it sounds like a great idea and I'm going to install one asap.

I thought you had an RX-7? That's forced induction, if you do, isn't it?
 
Back