Here are a couple of pictures of the recumbent bike before reconstruction.
Step 1 was to removal of the screen. There are a few cords connecting the bike to the computer. I just cut the cords as I was not concerned with salvaging the removed parts.
Step 2 was to remove the casing surrounding the internal weights and magnets.
Step 3 was to remove all the internal parts from inside the case housing.
Step 4 was removing the pedals, which was the biggest hassle as they were bolted on very tightly. (Note: turn the bolt in the opposite direction as normal to remove - clockwise)
The bolt was on so tightly that I actually had to take a hand grinder and cut through the bolt to remove it.
The pedals came out all as one piece.
Step 5 is simply to unbolt the pole –“steering column”- and turn it 180 degrees. Doing this allows for a more level platform for the steering wheel.
Step 6 is to get some form of board to attach both the steering wheel and the pedals. (I used some shelves from an old entertainment center) Then place the board on top of the steering column and mark the holes that will be drilled to attach the board to the steering column. I pre-drilled the holes to avoid cracking the wood.
(Before screwing the steering wheel board to the steering column run the cords that connect to the steering wheel through the steering column for a clean sleek look-not to mention for aerodynamic purposes)
Here are a few pictures of the board attached to the steering column. I simply took some small screws and drilled them into the board from beneath the steering column. (Note: be sure to get screws that won’t go through the board and stick out the top)
Step 7 is to build the platform for the pedals.
What I used to create a stable platform was 2 supports from a wooden shelf. On my particular recumbent bike there was a small slot where I ran a bolt through to connect the 2 shelf supports together. Be sure to tighten the bolt or else the pedals will move around on you (Important when races get intense)
My wife hot glued some thick pieces of fabric on the top of the metal so they wouldn’t dig into the board going to be placed on top.
Step 8 was to attach the board for the pedals to the 2 shelf supports. Here I used 3 screws into each shelf support. I placed the board for the pedals a little off center to the left (looking from the front) so there was enough room for the pedals to fit all on one side (otherwise the steering column would get in the way of the pedals).
I later did some adjusting to the racing seat. Here are pictures of my updates which included cutting the steering wheel board down to a more aerodynamic look, cutting about 2 inches off from the bottom of the steering column to make it a more comfortable height and also adding carpet to the board on the pedals (because it keeps the pedals from sliding around with the carpet gripper and…well its more comfortable for me left foot).
And here is the final product
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