Fairlady 2000 on the Nurburgring

  • Thread starter pio!pio!
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I have fully modded it out and the only settings I've changed is a little toe out up front and negative camber in the front and rear (more in the front) as well as increased brake force

The car squats too much on hard braking, and in left-right transitions (like a slalom type) loses traction.

Also very unstable at high speed sweepers..the front end looses grip..

any suggestions on making it handle like a racecar or go kart?

thanks
 
I had the pleasure of having one of these jems for a time in the late '70's, however it was called a Datsun 2000. Although it had already been stricken by the inherent weakness in its aluminum head, a compression leak between cylinders 2 and 3 is especially counterproductive to power output and there being no practical technology to repair the channel that had been burned into the head, it eventually fell to the affliction that has taken virtually all of it's siblings. Nonetheless, it could do 90 mph in 3rd of 5 gears, and had the suspension to support the speed, including sway bars and IRS; it was a real joy to drive.
This car was tuned using all available modifications including frame stiffener. The tune was established at Nurburgring using sport medium tires; the tune worked equally well with racing medium tires, but the brake balance should be lowered to 3/4 if they are used.
brakes 6/7
springs 4.9/5.0
height 110/160 (important)
bound 6/6
rebound7/7
camber 2.6/1.5
stabilizer 4/4
auto 10
asm/o 0
asm/u 0
tcs 1
lsd 10/40/20
enjoy
 
Here is another Tune for the Nissan 2000, which I also remember as the Datsun 2000:

No weight reduction, no nitro, NA Stage 2, 230 hp
8’59.932 at ‘ring using S3’s

Springs 4.9/4.5
Height 106/110
Bound 3/4
Rebound 6/8
Camber 2.0/1.0
Toe 0/-1
Stab 4/5

Brakes 12/14 with S3’s
ASM: 0
TCS: 3
LSD: 10/30/35

This is one of my favorites!

Pete.
 
pmgolf I tried your setup last night because I found it in an old post..I found that there was understeer on initial turn in which I attributed to the rear toe in and 0 front toe

I went back to my old toe settings of +1 in the front and 0 in the rear and the turn in was slightly oversteery like it once was..but the rest of your setup made it perform very well.

the difference between my Datsun Roadster and yours though is that you used a racing LSD and I used a 1.5 way..so maybe that affects the toe you used.
 
pio!pio!
rk: I will try your setup soon too
may I ask why you lower the brake force w/ racing tires vs increasing the braking force?
An excellent question which highlights the complexity of understanding and adjusting this device. I have learned a few facts about the brake balance controller and this is after exhaustively repetetive testing comparing minute adjustment changes. The ideal or optimum brake setting for most race tire equipped cars is 3. Lower is less stopping, higher is more sliding. The optimum setting for most sport tire equipped cars is 5. Often, the closer the suspension is to being "right" or optimal, the lower the optimum brake setting will be. This is something I have observed in many ardous and menial tuning sessions. I do not know a mechanical reason for this, I but i do have some theories...
 
I had a similar problem in my Evo VI T.M.E. I suppose this is kinda a cheating way of configuring your car but I wrote down all the suspension, lsd, and brake balance controller settings that were on my audi a4 touring car and applied them to the evo lol. And i'm happy to say that now it doesnt miss a beat.
 
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