Fanatec CSL DD: Entry Level, $350 Direct Drive Wheel

[graveltrap]

A few days later...

So the setting up experience for me was a little difficult, updating the firmware failed 5-6 times which was pretty nerve-racking! Not sure why, but I disconnected my Thrustmaster pedals (USB) and it went OK after that!

I really like the form factor of the CSL DD, it looks great mounted on my rig

The usage experience so far has been fantastic, especially in AC and ACC, in Raceroom the FFB is great but the degrees of rotation feels off (TCR car), RF2 was a pain to get up and running but once working the feel is simply superb! The wheel feels so smooth in comparison to my T300 and the silence is mostly golden...

My biggest gripe is with the metal quick release, being a first time FANATEC user there seems to be a fair bit of slop, which I think is the cause of some rather nasty clonking and banging when running over curbs, or big shocks are being put through the wheel. Is it necessary to use a clamping screw with this device, none seems to have been provided in the pack?

I bought the McLaren GT3 wheel which again is fantastic, but I am missing a round wheel quiet badly, I see the BMW GT2 rim is making a return so already thinking of placing an order, this eco system change gets expensive really quick It is something to think about when purchasing the steering wheel and the sort of car you will be driving the most.

Overall I am pretty happy with my purchase, it feels a good step up

 

[VFOURMAX1]

My biggest gripe is with the metal quick release, being a first time FANATEC user there seems to be a fair bit of slop, which I think is the cause of some rather nasty clonking and banging when running over curbs, or big shocks are being put through the wheel. Is it necessary to use a clamping screw with this device, none seems to have been provided in the pack?

I bought the McLaren GT3 wheel which again is fantastic,

I actually have two of the McLaren wheels a v.1 which I have the metal QR and a v.2 which has the current stock plastic QR which has the tighten down collar on it.

I actually prefer the new plastic lock down QR version, I find it really adds no time to change the wheel and actually tightens down on the wheelbase better and another bonus adds no cost to the wheel purchase.

I also do not find in normal use any unwanted wheel flex out of the stock plastic QR either. But I do not tug and twist and pull on my wheels in an unnatural manner trying to find weaknesses just for the sake of saying it has some flex in it and only care about flex in the wheels actual use as intended to be used.

 

[graveltrap]

I actually have two of the McLaren wheels a v.1 which I have the metal QR and a v.2 which has the current stock plastic QR which has the tighten down collar on it.

I actually prefer the new plastic lock down QR version, I find it really adds no time to change the wheel and actually tightens down on the wheelbase better and another bonus adds no cost to the wheel purchase.

I also do not find in normal use any unwanted wheel flex out of the stock plastic QR either. But I do not tug and twist and pull on my wheels in an unnatural manner trying to find weaknesses just for the sake of saying it has some flex in it and only care about flex in the wheels actual use as intended to be used.

It was the nasty clonking and banging which made me look for the source of the noise, I didn't notice the slop from just driving the wheel, I have since found the clamping screw, and used it, whoa and behold the clonking has gone!

It does mean the quick release function is no more, which is not an issue right now, it will be when I get a round wheel though.

I did wonder if the plastic clamp would be a better option, I thought I was getting both when I ordered, but FANATEC changed this sometime in the last 4-5 months of waiting, cost saving / green thing for them I guess, but it felt a bit like paying for something I didn't get to me.

 

[Jezza819]

I've got a FedEx tracking number for mine. Should arrive Monday the 8th.

EDIT Delayed until Tuesday the 9th

 

[Jezza819]

I understand your caution and holding off but did you explain to them that the unit you were interested in is a new release unit that even though it is a dd is smaller and lighter than the DD1 that was in the video and its maximum output power was 8nm which is the same as the the CSW 2.5 belt drive unit from the same manufacturer?

Again I just do not see how they can say their wheelstand would work for the CSW2.5 and not work for the CSL DD. That would not make absolutely no sense how it would weaken over time when the only real difference is the wheel connects directly to the motor shaft instead of a shaft that connects to the motor through pulleys and belts, the wheelstand sees no difference as the 8nm output is the same stress to the wheelstand regardless.

But you need to do what you feel comfortable with.

Over time it could weaken the stand? If that is the case, then any wheel would weaken the stand. Either they don't have any faith in the products they sell, are just being overly cautious, or trying to up-sale you into a Prime cockpit. Did they mention other products, cause I really think they're trying to steer you towards a Prime?

Well I got my CSL DD today and got all excited to mount it up to my GT Omega classic stand since they said the mounting is exactly the same between the two bases. Well it isn't, not even close. The mounting plate holes for the V2.5 are much wider than the underside of the CSL DD. It will only mount at two points and that's it.

So now I don't know what to do. I've contacted GT Omega to see if there is another mounting plate available but I'm afraid I might have to look at a complete new stand that does have the correct mounting points.

 

[Goonie75]

The CSL DD can use the same mounting holes as the CSL Elite and CSW 2.5 without adapter, and the GT Omega site says the classic stand supports the CSL Elite, so you should be fine as you can set up the 3 t-nuts the same as a CSL Elite triangle pattern. The GT Omega video shows a CSL Elite mounted. Worst case is you have to drill a single hole, Fanatec have templates you can download with all the measurements.

 

[5thwheel]

Sounds like a new/updated mounting plate is the way to go.

It would be interesting to hear if the Classic is up to Direct Drive levels of force. Mine has a bit of side-to-side give when I properly fight my regular wheel (T-GT II).

 

[graveltrap]

Well I got my CSL DD today and got all excited to mount it up to my GT Omega classic stand since they said the mounting is exactly the same between the two bases. Well it isn't, not even close. The mounting plate holes for the V2.5 are much wider than the underside of the CSL DD. It will only mount at two points and that's it.

So now I don't know what to do. I've contacted GT Omega to see if there is another mounting plate available but I'm afraid I might have to look at a complete new stand that does have the correct mounting points.

Save some cash and just drill the missing centre hole (7mm dia), according to the drilling template

Note: You may need to source longer screw for the centre hole, my old GT Omega has an extra channel welded to the underside of the wheel plate that will also need to be drilled through.

 

[Jezza819]

The CSL DD can use the same mounting holes as the CSL Elite and CSW 2.5 without adapter, and the GT Omega site says the classic stand supports the CSL Elite, so you should be fine as you can set up the 3 t-nuts the same as a CSL Elite triangle pattern. The GT Omega video shows a CSL Elite mounted. Worst case is you have to drill a single hole, Fanatec have templates you can download with all the measurements.

You're talking about the underside of the CSW 2.5 without the plate that raises the base about 35 degrees or so upwards? The triangle pattern screws? So just drill the front hole? One of the guys I work with said the other day that if it wouldn't work straight away he would drill it out for me.

I did contact GT Omega and they asked for pictures so I've sent them in. Best solution would be if they had a plate to mount it with 4 screws but we'll see what they say.

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

Yes the triangle pattern is the standard Fanatec mounting pattern. The CSL DD T-nut slots are in the same position.

 

[Jezza819]

Yes the triangle pattern is the standard Fanatec mounting pattern. The CSL DD T-nut slots are in the same position.

Ok now I understand. Thanks.

 

[Jezza819]

Save some cash and just drill the missing centre hole (7mm dia), according to the drilling template

Note: You may need to source longer screw for the centre hole, my old GT Omega has an extra channel welded to the underside of the wheel plate that will also need to be drilled through.

I printed out the templates. If I'm looking at it right, that front hole is almost off the front of the plate. Is that right? It doesn't look like there's enough room to drill a hole.

 

[graveltrap]

This isn't really rocket science, but 3 options for you..

1) As using T nuts its possible to drill the hole a little closer, use 60mm distance rather than 66 for example
2) Turn the plate 180 degrees, there is more space on the other side
3) Drill 3 holes and mount it where you want on the plate

 

[FrankieStail]

Or mount it with two bolts

 

[graveltrap]

Or mount it with two bolts

I saw a post somewhere on the interweb from a Fanatec rep to say this was not recommend maybe @DomB_Fanatec could confirm this?

 

[Goonie75]

I printed out the templates. If I'm looking at it right, that front hole is almost off the front of the plate. Is that right? It doesn't look like there's enough room to drill a hole.

View attachment 1092853

You want the third hole on the other side towards your seat, and as mentioned because the CSL DD uses T nuts you can move it back a little, as long as it's centre between the other 2 holes.

When you fit the wheelbase I suggest you loosely attach the T nuts to the base plate, then slide the wheelbase on to the T nuts then tighten down.

 

[Jezza819]

This isn't really rocket science, but 3 options for you..

1) As using T nuts its possible to drill the hole a little closer, use 60mm distance rather than 66 for example
2) Turn the plate 180 degrees, there is more space on the other side
3) Drill 3 holes and mount it where you want on the plate

I understand it's really not that difficult for most people especially those that are handy and confident with power tools but I'm not. I don't have a very good history with attempting something like this. That's why one of the guys I work with is going to drill it out for me as I would never attempt something like this myself.

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

I saw a post somewhere on the interweb from a Fanatec rep to say this was not recommend maybe @DomB_Fanatec could confirm this?

Yes you definitely shouldn't just use two bolts. Probably ok as a temporary solution but by using two bolts you are creating an axis of rotation though those two points, meaning that any vertical forces put through the wheel base will cause an unusual amount of stress on the mounting hardware, and potentially the base itself and the surface it is mounted to. Over time it could cause a failure. Using the third bolt distributes the load much better.

 

[Jezza819]

Ok I got my stand plate drilled out, got the base mounted updated the driver firmware, got the rim centered. Connected to the Xbox to run a few laps in F1 2021 just to feel it out. But on my V2 rim my 5 preset tuning setups are gone. Do you have to set the wheel up for each game in that tuning menu with the base connected to a PC?

If I want to go run F1 2021 I have to connected the base to my laptop, enter those settings in the tuning menu, disconnect the base from the laptop, connect it to the Xbox to play the game? Then if I want to run Assetto Corsa Competizione the next night I have to connect the base to the laptop again, enter the ACC settings in the tuning menu, disconnect the wheel from the laptop, connect to the Xbox to play THAT game?

 

[super_gt]

Ok I got my stand plate drilled out, got the base mounted updated the driver firmware, got the rim centered. Connected to the Xbox to run a few laps in F1 2021 just to feel it out. But on my V2 rim my 5 preset tuning setups are gone. Do you have to set the wheel up for each game in that tuning menu with the base connected to a PC?

If I want to go run F1 2021 I have to connected the base to my laptop, enter those settings in the tuning menu, disconnect the base from the laptop, connect it to the Xbox to play the game? Then if I want to run Assetto Corsa Competizione the next night I have to connect the base to the laptop again, enter the ACC settings in the tuning menu, disconnect the wheel from the laptop, connect to the Xbox to play THAT game?

Press and hold the tuning menu button until it switches to advanced settings.

 

[Jezza819]

Press and hold the tuning menu button until it switches to advanced settings.

So would you go back into the tuning menu when connected to a laptop and turn off that "advanced" button that pulls up all of those special settings so you could then access them through the wheel itself?

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

So would you go back into the tuning menu when connected to a laptop and turn off that "advanced" button that pulls up all of those special settings so you could then access them through the wheel itself?

Once switched to Advanced Mode it should stay there. The Tuning Menu in the Fanatec Control Panel on PC is identical to the one you access on the wheel.

 

[Jezza819]

Has anybody got any CSL DD settings for Forza 7? I want to try my universal hub steering wheel on this rig.

 

[super_gt]

CSL DD is now available with QR2 Lite base side.

 

[Veinz]

So I updated the firmware yesterday, and today I noticed that occasionally the paddles do not respond on my Formula V2.5. Someone on the Fanatec Forum told me that this is a known issue that they're investigating, just wondering if anyone else here is having any issues like this.