Fanatec csl elite PS4 find everything here.!

  • Thread starter Neelyd666
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Neelyd666
What's your overall impressions of your new kit? I'm on PS4 so as I gather PS4 settings are quite different from PC. For anyone on PS4 who's interested Shawn from simpit said yesterday he had info that sms and fanatec are working on the PS4 ffb for an update.
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The quality of the kit, compared to a G27, is in a whole other league - even though the wheel base is still plastic, the finish is really good.

The smoothnes is another thing. The difference again from a gear driven wheel like the G27, to a belt driven wheel is really impressive, and a big step up.

The force that the wheel delivers is impressive - and it gave me quite a shock the first time I (deliberately, just to check) drove into a tyre wall - almost snapped my fingers off (exaggeration) :) . Had to tone the force back a bit, or else I wouldn't have been able to do a few laps on Le Mans with out my arms getting really tired :)

The pedals (I went with the cheapest solution for a start) are really great too. The gas pedal do travel a bit more, but I got used to that pretty fast.

Now I just have to do a little tuning for the finer details, like kurbs. Road surface feedback is okay, so it should be possible to get a little more feedback from kurbs/grass.

Only thing is that the pedals don't fit on my Wheel Stand Pro, so now I have to build a Sim.Rig - what a shame :)
 
ZulfoDK
The quality of the kit, compared to a G27, is in a whole other league - even though the wheel base is still plastic, the finish is really good.

The smoothnes is another thing. The difference again from a gear driven wheel like the G27, to a belt driven wheel is really impressive, and a big step up.

The force that the wheel delivers is impressive - and it gave me quite a shock the first time I (deliberately, just to check) drove into a tyre wall - almost snapped my fingers off (exaggeration) :) . Had to tone the force back a bit, or else I wouldn't have been able to do a few laps on Le Mans with out my arms getting really tired :)

The pedals (I went with the cheapest solution for a start) are really great too. The gas pedal do travel a bit more, but I got used to that pretty fast.

Now I just have to do a little tuning for the finer details, like kurbs. Road surface feedback is okay, so it should be possible to get a little more feedback from kurbs/grass.

Only thing is that the pedals don't fit on my Wheel Stand Pro, so now I have to build a Sim.Rig - what a shame :)
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What setting are you using?
 
ZulfoDK
I think I have found an okay setup now, only thing is I cannot get the same feedback from going over kurbs as I had before - it doesn't feel as strong as before. I tried playing around with FX and Tone, but can't seem to get it right.

I do have a butkicker that gives me tactile feedback for kurbs and stuff, but I wouldn't mind having a little more feedback from the wheel too...

oh, and I'm on a PC :)
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Interesting ! That means the problem is on PS4 AND PC... I guess we have to wait for the next Project Cars 2 update !
 
Apparantly GTsport has been updated to 1.03. It has fixed problems with wheels with strong torque, so has this fixed issues with the CSL elite? Is there native ps4 mode? Or is compatibility mode improved? Hopefully project cars 2 will also receive an update soon!
 
PocketZeven
Apparantly GTsport has been updated to 1.03. It has fixed problems with wheels with strong torque, so has this fixed issues with the CSL elite? Is there native ps4 mode? Or is compatibility mode improved? Hopefully project cars 2 will also receive an update soon!
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Neelyd666
For anyone on PS4 who's interested Shawn from simpit said yesterday he had info that sms and fanatec are working on the PS4 ffb for an update.
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I already read your post and watched his video. Thanks for that. But don’t know what Shaun’s source is, but till it isn’t officially confirmed I’ll take the statement with a grain of salt.
 
Neelyd666
Fair enough, I do think he's one of the more reliable and honest sim guys out there.

I stumbled across this also

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...tialiasing-(&p=1405070&viewfull=1#post1405070
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Yes I like watching the Simpit too. Don’t know the story how he got axed from ISRTV. But it seems to me he doesn’t get the credit or views for his contribution to the simracing community. He started with a nice simpit studio, but know only low budget streams. I liked the former format better though.

The link only referenced graphics fixes. As long as they don’t issue a fix they also don’t confirm there are any issues with the CSL. They might just say it is what it is.
 
I just received my CSL elite LC pedals and was wondering what everyone's thoughts were for the settings of the Load cell within the Fanatec control panel.
 
Re the CSL for PS4, First go to the advanced settings in Options and use 3/1/2. Try 67 for FFB, 30 shock, ABS off and 40 on FEI. Good luck.
 
Don't reduce the on-wheel FFB setting. It's only adjustable for the rare games *cough* GT *cough* that don't allow the user to adjust FFB strength in-game. Reducing it on-wheel will cut out some of the FFB being sent from the game. Adjust the settings in-game where possible. I never drop the FFB below 100 on my CSL, and I never did on my CSR before it. I keep my settings mostly maxed out, keep Drift mode off, and I try to keep FEI at 100 where possible.

In PC2, AC, and F1 2017, I have adjusted FFB settings in-game to achieve my desired results, which includes turning down canned effects that produce the horrible clunking. Turning down FEI reduces the clunking, but also smooths out all FFB. I found that in order to reduce the clunking in AC and F1 2017, I had to turn FEI most of the way down, which muddied the rest of the FFB, making it feel dull and vague. This wasn't acceptable to me, so I took the opposite approach: I turned FEI back up to max, and then paid close attention to where the clunking was occurring. I found in F1 2017 that the clunking was mostly happening on kerbs and off-track (dropping a wheel off track on exit would produce sudden and sharp clunking), so I went into the FFB settings in-game and turned down some of the effects like off track feel, kerb feel, and turned road feel down a little too. These changes almost completely removed the clunking, without dampening the rest of the FFB at all. I was so happy with it that I did the same thing in AC: Turned down the canned effects like road feel. AC feels dead perfect, with plenty of surface detail coming through the wheel, but without the harsh clunky effects.

I recommend to anyone with this wheel base: Do not turn down the FFB or the FEI on your wheel, unless the game you're playing doesn't provide in-game settings to alter the behaviour of the FFB. Instead, turn down the canned effects in your games, because A) They're not realistic anyway, and B) They are the providers of the harsh FFB signals that produce clunking in our wheels.

As for PC2: I will detail my thoughts once I've spent more time with the game.
 
Fanatec CSL Elite and Pcars2 on my PC are a perfect match! First I had to get used to this new wheel after a longer period of using my good old T300 with also great 599xx rim.
The feeling is getting better and better each time I start racing. You feel much more specific details between the different cars with this CSL Elite.
 
Desperately hoping Fanatec has a sale on the CSL Elite PS4 this Christmas so I can buy one of these babies (I'm currently using a Logitech G29).
They didn't have it on sale for Black Friday gone but hoping they do for Christmas. Been checking on their site but nothing so far.
Pity Amazon's price for it is so much higher eh? Which is strange because normally one would get lower prices for almost anything on Amazon.
 
davidt33
Desperately hoping Fanatec has a sale on the CSL Elite PS4 this Christmas so I can buy one of these babies (I'm currently using a Logitech G29).
They didn't have it on sale for Black Friday gone but hoping they do for Christmas. Been checking on their site but nothing so far.
Pity Amazon's price for it is so much higher eh? Which is strange because normally one would get lower prices for almost anything on Amazon.
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Or participate in the daily auction and who knows you will "win" a CSL Elite with a huge discount? see Fanatecs mainpage Advent Calendar
 
BrainsBush
Or participate in the daily auction and who knows you will "win" a CSL Elite with a huge discount? see Fanatecs mainpage Advent Calendar
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I was watching that but didn't quite know how to go about it.
Was wondering too if whoever won if the shipment was going to be from Germany or US. If from Germany the shipment cost might be more to reach by me in the Caribbean.
 
Neelyd666
So have you guys gave up, moved on to other games or found some suitable settings?
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From what I read on the offical forum the patch made the wheel worse than it was. I would love to know myself if there's any satisfied settings from other uses as I have not touched my wheel since we last talked.
 
ron24
You're not alone. Sadly I got no good settings. I just got mine last week. It was bad before the patch now worse for me after patch. I found this on the official PC2 forum. Have not tried it yet.
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by Savoy49
Here's what I've found after some testing. As always ... your mileage may vary!

CSL Elite PS4 Wheel, CSL Elite Pedals, PS4 Pro, PC2 Patch 2.0

Wheel Settings:
Sen : 90 (or AUT ... your choice)
FF : 100 - Wheel overall strength relative to input from system
SHO : OFF - No vibration transducer in CSL Elite Wheel Rim
ABS : OFF - No vibration transducer in CSL Elite Pedals
DRI : -002 - Just barely enough to dampen out oscillations
FOR : 100 - *See note below
SPR : 100 - *See note below
DPR : 100 - *See note below
FEI : 000 - Full intensity on commanded effects
BRF : 100 - No Load Cell Upgrade

* Note on FOR/SPR/DPR - These control the strength which which the wheel executes a command from the console to provide a FFB modification: Force (push the wheel), Spring (pull the wheel to center), Damper (slows wheel motion in transition) - setting these to less than 100 takes away from FFB commands that the game is sending to the wheel and modifies the way the wheel executes the signal given to it. Turning these down reduces what the game is trying to have the wheel do.

Game Settings:
FLAVOR : Raw
GAIN : 75 - Overall strength of system output - Your choice here but this seems right to me
VOLUME : 50 - medium "weight"
TONE : 50 - medium "balance"
FX : 100 - Maximum force effects strength - *See Note 2
MENU SPRING : 0.10 - This only effects non-driving behavior of the wheel when navigating menus

* Note 2 - Maximized this to increase the amount of communication from road FFB effects. Since the game seems to be low on FFB detail I maximized this to try to add something on top of the perfectly smooth feel.

With these settings the game gives me the best feel that I have found. I think it still lacks in building load in the wheel during cornering and the resultant drop in load as the front tyres are overloaded (should maximum resistance just before slip)...but that is a problem with how the game is commanding FFB and not how the wheel is relaying FFB commands. Also lacking is FFB from rumble strips, grass, gravel, etc. I think SMS is getting close and I hope they continue to work on their overall FFB style to improve the feel when you are up against the edge of the traction circle.http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...atec-CSL-Elite-PS4&highlight=Fanatec+CSLE-PS4
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hello quick question you seem to have a fair grasp of how to set up the wheel i also have one. The latest gt sport update i find myself doing over all the settings and this time it seems when i turn under brakes or start to loose traction the whole wheel will shake and knock really loud not like any other ff force or vibration what is this setting ive changed a few things here and their but cant pick what it is to turn it down a little bit can you help me
 
john1510
hello quick question you seem to have a fair grasp of how to set up the wheel i also have one. The latest gt sport update i find myself doing over all the settings and this time it seems when i turn under brakes or start to loose traction the whole wheel will shake and knock really loud not like any other ff force or vibration what is this setting ive changed a few things here and their but cant pick what it is to turn it down a little bit can you help me
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Wish I could help but I sold my wheel and rig.
 
Since this is the thread for fanatec, I'd like to ask you all what stand or seat are you using?

My wheel and pedals are arriving tomorrow
 
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