Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

[nikki9095]

Hi everyone, i have some problem with my fanatec CSL elite wheel for PS4.
I tried to update the firmware 2 days ago. I used all the procedure correctly, but the updated was failed (as you can see on this link ). So then when I plug back in to the Playstation, the Wheel base doesn't want to turn on (as you can see on this link ). So the conclusion is my wheel cannot turn on right now. Like the video that i gave you. If i press the power button there’s just only blink the red light.

The reason why I did all of that things, was because of the throttle pedals issue (as you can see on this link ). And just for extra information, I record the video 3 days ago. The problem is, when my foot was stable to hit around 40/50% of the throttle pedals, the throttle indicators on the game looks unstable (a kind of vibrating). From my opinion, it shouldn't be that way.

I really hope that someone in here can help me. And just fyi i already contact fanatec through the email but there’s no response yet. Thank you in advance.

 

[super_gt]

Hi everyone, i have some problem with my fanatec CSL elite wheel for PS4.
I tried to update the firmware 2 days ago. I used all the procedure correctly, but the updated was failed (as you can see on this link ). So then when I plug back in to the Playstation, the Wheel base doesn't want to turn on (as you can see on this link ). So the conclusion is my wheel cannot turn on right now. Like the video that i gave you. If i press the power button there’s just only blink the red light.

The reason why I did all of that things, was because of the throttle pedals issue (as you can see on this link ). And just for extra information, I record the video 3 days ago. The problem is, when my foot was stable to hit around 40/50% of the throttle pedals, the throttle indicators on the game looks unstable (a kind of vibrating). From my opinion, it shouldn't be that way.

I really hope that someone in here can help me. And just fyi i already contact fanatec through the email but there’s no response yet. Thank you in advance.

@DomB_Fanatec is official representative of Fanatec he will help you.


About the throttle pedal issue you can spray some contact cleaner(WD 40) in the potentiometer like this guy but you will have to disassemble the pedal and this may invalidate the warranty.



(read the comments below the video)

 

[nikki9095]

@DomB_Fanatec is official representative of Fanatec he will help you.


About the throttle pedal issue you can spray some contact cleaner(WD 40) in the potentiometer like this guy but you will have to disassemble the pedal and this may invalidate the warranty.



(read the comments below the video)

Thank you very much for your response i really appreciate it. Do you know how i can contact him @DomB_Fanatec ? And is there any video to teach us step by step the way to disassemble the pedals ?

Thanks.

 

[super_gt]

Thank you very much for your response i really appreciate it. Do you know how i can contact him @DomB_Fanatec ?

There is no need to do anything,he will see my and your post as soon as he visits GTPlanet.

And is there any video to teach us step by step the way to disassemble the pedals ?

Sorry, there is no such video.

 

[Keith2324]

There is no need to do anything,he will see my and your post as soon as he visits GTPlanet.

Sorry, there is no such video.

Here!

 

[super_gt]

Here!

As far as I understand from the comments Fanatec has sent him two new potentiometers and have asked to return the old ones for analysis.I did not see serious wear on the teeth and spiking potentiometers happens to other pedals too so WD40 sprayed into the potentiometer is a better solution to me.

 

[gt_fan]

As far as I understand from the comments Fanatec has sent him two new potentiometers and have asked to return the old ones for analysis.I did not see serious wear on the teeth and spiking potentiometers happens to other pedals too so WD40 sprayed into the potentiometer is a better solution to me.

May not be the same problem but my accelerator (gas) pedal was spiking as well but for me it was like the pedal mechanism was sticking or something - a little bit of silicone grease on the pedal shaft seems to have cured it - doesn't stick any more. Readings stay on zero with no pressure applied and increase gradually with the amount of pressure.

 

[nikki9095]

There is no need to do anything,he will see my and your post as soon as he visits GTPlanet.

Sorry, there is no such video.

Ok then i’ll just wait him to response. Thank you @super_gt

Here!

Thank you for the video. But unfortunately i cannot do anything right now because the main problem is my wheel base doesn’t want to turn on. And Fanatec still not response my email.

 

[Melbourne Park]

OK so here's what happened:
- I tested and sent videos of the wheel start up issues - 6 lights not 9.
- 6 lights not 9 means the wheel is not connected
- Service chap in Germany (nice bloke and fluent English) said the nut is not screwed on, it won't work
- I said sure but only for the video I left it off since we agreed that I take photos of the connectors (in case they were damaged), I had taken photos of the connectors - wheel and inside the wheelbase wheel shaft - (and by the way that short video I sent even had text overlays!! ) I left the nut off only for the video as you (the service chap) was in a hurry to get the video (there are only two hours open for service).
- I gave up for the Thursday - Service chap said the wheel is crook so: " send me a picture of the serial number (or the number) and we'll organise something on the Friday" (this being a Thursday night for me, a very late one too after all this!) - so Thursday in Germany, around 5 to 6 pm by then German time.
- I was out to dinner on the Friday but communicated via email on my phone. I queried while out at dinner with a few wines about whether there should be two "O" rings on the shaft, and he said only 1. I came back late Friday night so no resolutions possible.
- I have a pictorial mind and I did found two identical tiny rubber "O" rings - for lubrication I think ?? - on the Wheelbase's shaft. Sure enough two thin 'O" rings were on the shaft. Not enough to effect things IMO. Surely would make no difference, I left one as instructed.
- I cleaned the contact points with a vacuum and then an electrical spray cleaner, they appeared to be a copper thin rod, they were quite dull in colour - the video showed them close up.
- Attached the wheel with the nut ( I didn't get a nut with the kit but the manual says what to buy, although mine is a bit shorter at 16mm but its head is shorter so its the same I reckon as the factory's, and they offered to send an original one - great)
- The wheel then had 9 lights. !!!

- I then went to the PC and calibrated it again - but the V3 pedals were not there when I pushed them.
- Recalibrated the wheel with the USB cable rather than via the hub - the V3 pedals seemed fine although the brake and accelerator vibration may not be working (I am not close enough to feel if they vibrate or not) - there was no sound of them spinning
- But onto the wheelbase connection (required for the PS4) but again, the V3 pedals were not there.
- I thought I'll give it a go after all these calibrations
- The game opened up and after a few PS4 re-starts even the Sony button on the wheel, the big button with the logo - even it fired up the PS4 and there was no need to use the hand controller.
- Houston We Have Confirmation!
- Started my first GT Sport race and the wheel turned, but no accelerator or brakes. This was quite a let down ...
First Conclusion (or maybe the 7th)
- OK the base is crook because the pedals are OK on the PC?
- I tried my other pedals (I bought the LC pedals as well)
- Engraged by no, because I had to unpack the still in LC Pedal set in their sealed brown shipping box because I wanted to sell the Elite Wheelbase with the never opened pedals when I got the Podium PS4
- The LC pedals worked and I had a game! Great. The LC pedals also had a long RJ cable to connect too - the V3 pedals RJ (the thin cable with an ethernet style connector) cable that goes to the PS4 was half the length of the USB cable that goes from the PS4 to the Wheelbase. How come you get a long cable with the cheaper LC Pedals, but one half the length of the Wheelbase USB to PS4 cable? Uhh Uhh Uhh ?? ...
- I thought since 99% of computer failures are related to the network ... is that short cable OK? Got to be, looks fine to my (old) eyes
- Tried the V3 pedals with the LC pedal nice long cable - yep, it worked. Damn damn damn .. - Then I calibrated the pedals (the V3 ones) on the PC via the Wheelbase ...
- Started the game and the pedals didn't work ... what the **** !!!
- Went back to the PC and this time not only did I calibrate the pedals, but then I re-did the software for the umpteenth time ...


Great. Everything working!!! Hoorah hoorah!

- So then I packed the LC pedals up - but the fourth nut and bolt I was undoing - it cross threaded. Or maybe the plastic on the lock nut is caught in the thread of the bolt.
- Now I cannot get the bolt and nut off the LC pedals ... the pedals that were brand new, that I didn't want to sell, that I just wanted to sell brand new and untouched with the Wheelbase when I get a Podium setup (an auction tonight too)

**** Expletive expletives expletive!!! I will have to resolve this tonight with service, I hope.

Annoying thing is I have lots of those RJ cables in a box ... I wish I had of tried one of those first up. But the instructions say only use the supplied cables, a big mistake by me there.

The lights on the wheel don't work on the PS4 - that created some panic too. But after checking on the web, I think that is Sony's lack of compatibility with Fanatec, but I thought they would by now. Disappointment there. I wonder if the fancy screen on the Podium wheelbase will work on the PS4 then if the gear change and rev lights which are simple don't yet work on the Elite wheelbase for PS4 ??? Neither does that little green light, sheesh I wish that would work like it does on the Elite for Xbox wheelbase. Sony again I guess.

I loved lightweight thick bolts ... but heck, I have never had a cross thread in my life, and to have it happened when its almost off the nut ... unbelievable. Sheesh ...

 

[Melbourne Park]

Hi everyone,

I really hope that someone in here can help me. And just fyi i already contact fanatec through the email but there’s no response yet. Thank you in advance.

I would check the cable with another one. Also re-flash the software via the PC with the pedals attached to the Wheelbase, after you calibrate the pedals. Start the PS4 several times too and turn off the hand controller after the PS4 is recognising the Elite wheel via the Sony iconed large button in the middle of the Elite wheel. Then restart the ps4 and the wheelbase should be the controller that starts the PS4's final initialisation process. Do that a couple of times to be sure. Engage the Fanatec Elite in the controller options early on.

 

[DrOrzy]

OK so here's what happened:
- I tested and sent videos of the wheel start up issues - 6 lights not 9.
- 6 lights not 9 means the wheel is not connected
- Service chap in Germany (nice bloke and fluent English) said the nut is not screwed on, it won't work
- I said sure but only for the video I left it off since we agreed that I take photos of the connectors (in case they were damaged), I had taken photos of the connectors - wheel and inside the wheelbase wheel shaft - (and by the way that short video I sent even had text overlays!! ) I left the nut off only for the video as you (the service chap) was in a hurry to get the video (there are only two hours open for service).
- I gave up for the Thursday - Service chap said the wheel is crook so: " send me a picture of the serial number (or the number) and we'll organise something on the Friday" (this being a Thursday night for me, a very late one too after all this!) - so Thursday in Germany, around 5 to 6 pm by then German time.
- I was out to dinner on the Friday but communicated via email on my phone. I queried while out at dinner with a few wines about whether there should be two "O" rings on the shaft, and he said only 1. I came back late Friday night so no resolutions possible.
- I have a pictorial mind and I did found two identical tiny rubber "O" rings - for lubrication I think ?? - on the Wheelbase's shaft. Sure enough two thin 'O" rings were on the shaft. Not enough to effect things IMO. Surely would make no difference, I left one as instructed.
- I cleaned the contact points with a vacuum and then an electrical spray cleaner, they appeared to be a copper thin rod, they were quite dull in colour - the video showed them close up.
- Attached the wheel with the nut ( I didn't get a nut with the kit but the manual says what to buy, although mine is a bit shorter at 16mm but its head is shorter so its the same I reckon as the factory's, and they offered to send an original one - great)
- The wheel then had 9 lights. !!!

- I then went to the PC and calibrated it again - but the V3 pedals were not there when I pushed them.
- Recalibrated the wheel with the USB cable rather than via the hub - the V3 pedals seemed fine although the brake and accelerator vibration may not be working (I am not close enough to feel if they vibrate or not) - there was no sound of them spinning
- But onto the wheelbase connection (required for the PS4) but again, the V3 pedals were not there.
- I thought I'll give it a go after all these calibrations
- The game opened up and after a few PS4 re-starts even the Sony button on the wheel, the big button with the logo - even it fired up the PS4 and there was no need to use the hand controller.
- Houston We Have Confirmation!
- Started my first GT Sport race and the wheel turned, but no accelerator or brakes. This was quite a let down ...
First Conclusion (or maybe the 7th)
- OK the base is crook because the pedals are OK on the PC?
- I tried my other pedals (I bought the LC pedals as well)
- Engraged by no, because I had to unpack the still in LC Pedal set in their sealed brown shipping box because I wanted to sell the Elite Wheelbase with the never opened pedals when I got the Podium PS4
- The LC pedals worked and I had a game! Great. The LC pedals also had a long RJ cable to connect too - the V3 pedals RJ (the thin cable with an ethernet style connector) cable that goes to the PS4 was half the length of the USB cable that goes from the PS4 to the Wheelbase. How come you get a long cable with the cheaper LC Pedals, but one half the length of the Wheelbase USB to PS4 cable? Uhh Uhh Uhh ?? ...
- I thought since 99% of computer failures are related to the network ... is that short cable OK? Got to be, looks fine to my (old) eyes
- Tried the V3 pedals with the LC pedal nice long cable - yep, it worked. Damn damn damn .. - Then I calibrated the pedals (the V3 ones) on the PC via the Wheelbase ...
- Started the game and the pedals didn't work ... what the **** !!!
- Went back to the PC and this time not only did I calibrate the pedals, but then I re-did the software for the umpteenth time ...


Great. Everything working!!! Hoorah hoorah!

- So then I packed the LC pedals up - but the fourth nut and bolt I was undoing - it cross threaded. Or maybe the plastic on the lock nut is caught in the thread of the bolt.
- Now I cannot get the bolt and nut off the LC pedals ... the pedals that were brand new, that I didn't want to sell, that I just wanted to sell brand new and untouched with the Wheelbase when I get a Podium setup (an auction tonight too)

**** Expletive expletives expletive!!! I will have to resolve this tonight with service, I hope.

Annoying thing is I have lots of those RJ cables in a box ... I wish I had of tried one of those first up. But the instructions say only use the supplied cables, a big mistake by me there.

The lights on the wheel don't work on the PS4 - that created some panic too. But after checking on the web, I think that is Sony's lack of compatibility with Fanatec, but I thought they would by now. Disappointment there. I wonder if the fancy screen on the Podium wheelbase will work on the PS4 then if the gear change and rev lights which are simple don't yet work on the Elite wheelbase for PS4 ??? Neither does that little green light, sheesh I wish that would work like it does on the Elite for Xbox wheelbase. Sony again I guess.

I loved lightweight thick bolts ... but heck, I have never had a cross thread in my life, and to have it happened when its almost off the nut ... unbelievable. Sheesh ...

Wow

Well just to be clear, the lights on the wheelbase do work on the PS4. I went with the CSL LC pedals instead of the V3’s because there more customisable for my needs. So I am using those pedals with the Elite base and everything is working as it should I was just unlucky to have a faulty McLaren Wheel delivered. Which I am now waiting for an email back from service(Since last Thursday) to let me know the procedure for me to send it back. Seems like nothing happens quickly in the support world of Fanatec. I received an email test telling me that they are organising the RMA and to do nothing until they get back to me with the next steps?! Ummmm, ok then. That’s what I was already doing just waiting waiting waiting!

 

[Melbourne Park]

Wow

Well just to be clear, the lights on the wheelbase do work on the PS4. ...That’s what I was already doing just waiting waiting waiting!

I wonder if then I have not setup it up correctly? They work on the PC checks ...

If you want support quickly, you need to ring Germany.

4 pm in Eastern Australia = 8 am in Landshut
5 pm in Eastern Australia = 9 am in Landshut
6 pm in Eastern Australia = 10 am in Landshut
7 pm in Eastern Australia = 11 am in Landshut
8 pm in Eastern Australia = 12 noon in Landshut
9 pm in Eastern Australia = 1 pm in Landshut
10 pm in Eastern Australia = 2 pm in Landshut
11 pm in Eastern Australia = 3 pm in Landshut
12 Midnight in Eastern Australia = 4 pm in Landshut
1 am in Eastern Australia = 5 pm in Landshut

Since service (after they answer its number 2) starts at 4pm, that means its 10pm to midnight for service. The gentleman I spoke to would answer my emails after I spoke to him pretty much immediately.

They should have service for Australia and Japan in the morning, German time. It wouldn't cost them anything.

 

[DrOrzy]

I wonder if then I have not setup it up correctly? They work on the PC checks ...

If you want support quickly, you need to ring Germany.

4 pm in Eastern Australia = 8 am in Landshut
5 pm in Eastern Australia = 9 am in Landshut
6 pm in Eastern Australia = 10 am in Landshut
7 pm in Eastern Australia = 11 am in Landshut
8 pm in Eastern Australia = 12 noon in Landshut
9 pm in Eastern Australia = 1 pm in Landshut
10 pm in Eastern Australia = 2 pm in Landshut
11 pm in Eastern Australia = 3 pm in Landshut
12 Midnight in Eastern Australia = 4 pm in Landshut
1 am in Eastern Australia = 5 pm in Landshut

Since service (after they answer its number 2) starts at 4pm, that means its 10pm to midnight for service. The gentleman I spoke to would answer my emails after I spoke to him pretty much immediately.

They should have service for Australia and Japan in the morning, German time. It wouldn't cost them anything.

What number are you calling? Is it in the manual?

 

[Matsom]

Hi everyone.

My first post here. Just got the Fanatec PS4 CSL Elite with LC and using F1 Carbon wheel. I have a little issue with the brake. Its not recognised by GT Sports game. No issue with the Accelerator so had to use a button as brake. I can't find any Settings in the Game to test the pedals. No issues when playing F1 2017. Any advice will be very much welcomed.

 

[Melbourne Park]

What number are you calling? Is it in the manual?

Its on their web site, I think under contacts.

I'll sent it to you via a message.

 

[Melbourne Park]

Hi everyone.

My first post here. Just got the Fanatec PS4 CSL Elite with LC and using F1 Carbon wheel. I have a little issue with the brake. Its not recognised by GT Sports game. No issue with the Accelerator so had to use a button as brake. I can't find any Settings in the Game to test the pedals. No issues when playing F1 2017. Any advice will be very much welcomed.

I suggest that you re-flash the wheel, with it attached to the wheelbase, and the brakes/pedals attached also to the wheelbase
- Attach and power the Wheelbase up first, with the wheel attached and the pedals going into the wheelbase
- Then attach the USB from the PS4 into the USB on your PC
- Restart the wheelbase and it should then end up in red (PC Mode)
- Use the Fanatec software to view the wheelbase, brakes and wheel
- Check that they are all there
- Then calibrate the brakes
- Then do the flash replacement (which I think passes the calibrations onto the wheelbase)
- You'll have to calibrate the wheel when you restart the wheelbase so that its straight:
- spanner button plus the X and the inside button on the left opposite the X button on the Elite wheel - different wheels are different buttons
- Push the spanner button again to get out.

Then connect to the PS4 and check that its all recognised

i.e.
Restart PS4 and Wheelbase
Ensure too that the Elite wheelbase is in the blue (for PS4) mode.
Go into the controller area of PS4 - and ensure the Elite is connected.
Click on the Fanatec Elite software selection too
Maybe turn off your hand controller on the PS4 too
And initialise the PS4 with the wheel's Sony Playstation icon button, rather than using the hand controller
I turned off the hand controller and then restarted - IMO that helped the PS4 look for the Fanatec


Worth a try I guess ... logically if the calibration for he pedals works when they are attached to the wheelbase then the connection of the pedals via the wheelbase should be sound ...

Be careful of me though, I am a newby with Fanatec.

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

Ok then i’ll just wait him to response.

Hi nikki9095, I have sent you a PM.

If you want support quickly, you need to ring Germany.

I would like to point out that's not the only option. Our Live Chat system is available at least 10 hours each day, typically from 8:00 to 20:45 on weekdays and 13:00 to 22:45 on weekends (UTC+2).

 

[Melbourne Park]

Hi nikki9095, I have sent you a PM.


I would like to point out that's not the only option. Our Live Chat system is available at least 10 hours each day, typically from 8:00 to 20:45 on weekdays and 13:00 to 22:45 on weekends (UTC+2).

Thanks again for your participation here.

That's great too. I hope the people providing that service are in Germany? Shame DrOrzy didn't use that Live Chat system.

 

[DrOrzy]

It’s all good.
I’ve got my wheel packaged up and sending to the service warehouse today. We’ll see what happens from there.

 

[Mike Lobban]

I believe I have a broken hat switch.....there is no feel when pushing in the up direction and the menu keeps scrolling with no touch input. Is there parts available from Fanatec? Of course the wheel is just out of warranty.

 

[GreenT]

Was just wondering if anyone else is having problems with their McLaren GT3 wheel on the PS4 CSL Elite wheel base, especially on GT Sport? I have started getting all sorts of weird issues as of late and the only change has been the addition of the new wheel. My issues have been random but mostly occur after I switch from say the ps elite P1 or xbox P1 wheel to the GT3 and vice versa. Some of the issues I'm experiencing include but not limited to, the wheel will start turning back and forth on its own violently with no outside input. It will do this whether I'm in a game or just the PS home screen, it doesn't matter. I noticed this morning that after the wheel had done that 3 times with in 2 minutes that there was a odd but slight humming sound from inside the wheel base so I shut it off and let it sit for a moment and then turned it back on and it seems to have quit for now. I will also lose FFB strength in the middle of a race frequently as of late. I researched this issue and found that if the motor gets to hot the base has a fail safe of reducing the FFB workload to save the motor, however I've never had any issues with overheating before the newest driver updates for the base and wheel. I can't figure out exactly how to capture or prove this but I also have noticed quite often that I am experiencing loss of steering detection in game, like the censor in the base is dirty or something. I can start a race and take first couple turns just fine then I'll take the same turn next lap and the car will either act like I have the wheel turned 100 degrees and spin out or barely turn at all no matter how far I have the wheel. It does this on GT Sport on PS4, PC2 on XBOX 1x and PS4, Forza 7 on XBOX 1x, and AC on XBOX 1x. My LC peddles seem to have started acting up lately also by showing applied pressure on both the throttle and the brake during a race or not. This is random but does seem to be occurring more frequently lately. I have downloaded new drivers and refreshed the base, wheel, peddles and have recalibrated them from both the pc and the wheel but it still seems to be occurring. I took everything apart last night and dusted/cleaned it but it doesn't seem to have helped any as I was racing GT Sport this morning and in the middle of the race my brake started giving 30% application on its own on a straight causing me to have to forfeit and exit. The worst part is I was actually setting quick pace and that RARELY ever happens.
Anyways I know I'm probably going to have to go threw the whole process and hassle of trying to get ahold of Fanatec and then box everything up to ship and miss out on at least the last 5 races in a PC2 league I'm in which sucks since Im currently in 4th and have my best 3 tracks coming up. I thought I would see if anyone else has been having issues or suggestions first since I really couldn't find anything related on youtube or google.

Just to add to the list, I just started playing GT Sport again after writing this and my brakes are showing applied pressure again in game so I hit the settings button on the GT3 wheel and suddenly I no longer had the brf selection to adjust the brake sensitivity. I turned the wheel off then back on and now its back, frustrating!!!! I could have boughten a hornet race car and raced for real with the money I've invested into fanatec. I've only had this setup since early April and this will be the 2nd time I've had to get ahold of them for issues.

 

[DrOrzy]

Y

Was just wondering if anyone else is having problems with their McLaren GT3 wheel on the PS4 CSL Elite wheel base, especially on GT Sport? I have started getting all sorts of weird issues as of late and the only change has been the addition of the new wheel. My issues have been random but mostly occur after I switch from say the ps elite P1 or xbox P1 wheel to the GT3 and vice versa. Some of the issues I'm experiencing include but not limited to, the wheel will start turning back and forth on its own violently with no outside input. It will do this whether I'm in a game or just the PS home screen, it doesn't matter. I noticed this morning that after the wheel had done that 3 times with in 2 minutes that there was a odd but slight humming sound from inside the wheel base so I shut it off and let it sit for a moment and then turned it back on and it seems to have quit for now. I will also lose FFB strength in the middle of a race frequently as of late. I researched this issue and found that if the motor gets to hot the base has a fail safe of reducing the FFB workload to save the motor, however I've never had any issues with overheating before the newest driver updates for the base and wheel. I can't figure out exactly how to capture or prove this but I also have noticed quite often that I am experiencing loss of steering detection in game, like the censor in the base is dirty or something. I can start a race and take first couple turns just fine then I'll take the same turn next lap and the car will either act like I have the wheel turned 100 degrees and spin out or barely turn at all no matter how far I have the wheel. It does this on GT Sport on PS4, PC2 on XBOX 1x and PS4, Forza 7 on XBOX 1x, and AC on XBOX 1x. My LC peddles seem to have started acting up lately also by showing applied pressure on both the throttle and the brake during a race or not. This is random but does seem to be occurring more frequently lately. I have downloaded new drivers and refreshed the base, wheel, peddles and have recalibrated them from both the pc and the wheel but it still seems to be occurring. I took everything apart last night and dusted/cleaned it but it doesn't seem to have helped any as I was racing GT Sport this morning and in the middle of the race my brake started giving 30% application on its own on a straight causing me to have to forfeit and exit. The worst part is I was actually setting quick pace and that RARELY ever happens.
Anyways I know I'm probably going to have to go threw the whole process and hassle of trying to get ahold of Fanatec and then box everything up to ship and miss out on at least the last 5 races in a PC2 league I'm in which sucks since Im currently in 4th and have my best 3 tracks coming up. I thought I would see if anyone else has been having issues or suggestions first since I really couldn't find anything related on youtube or google.

Just to add to the list, I just started playing GT Sport again after writing this and my brakes are showing applied pressure again in game so I hit the settings button on the GT3 wheel and suddenly I no longer had the brf selection to adjust the brake sensitivity. I turned the wheel off then back on and now its back, frustrating!!!! I could have boughten a hornet race car and raced for real with the money I've invested into fanatec. I've only had this setup since early April and this will be the 2nd time I've had to get ahold of them for issues.

You started off saying if anyone had this issue with the GT3 wheel and ended up with pedal problems. Really sounds like something’s going a miss with your base. Have you tried reflagging the firmware and reinstalling it all again? Other than that, doesn’t sound like there’s too much more you can try your end unfortunately.

Try the live chat with them that Dom recommended above. Good luck buddy. Keep us posted.

 

[GreenT]

Thanks DrOrzy, I’m not really sure what you mean by reflagging the firmware. I got the GT3 like the beginning of June and followed the instructions to a T making sure to update before attaching rim to base for first time and then attached it and updated wheel etc. started having problems immediately in PC2 on ps4 and forza7 but most message boards and forums etc were saying that since it was brand new it was most likely going to need another driver update so not to freak out. Can’t remember exactly the time line but another driver update was pushed out again fairly quickly after that and seemed to correct most of the issues. Seems like maybe end of July perhaps, my peddles started acting up so I hooked it up to pc again and somehow I must of messed up the firmware update because the base did its normal reboot after flash but it was doing the flashing red/blue light warning and wouldn’t start up so I had to reinstall everything and flash again and it worked. Then about maybe a week or 2 ago is when it started doing the crazy back and forth on its own and started losing the degrees of rotation in race. This time I completely uninstalled the whole driver software from computer, redownloaded then hooked wheel up and reflashed.
I apologize if I didnt come across correctly when I posted earlier, I wasn’t seeking specific GT3 rim issues per say but just if anyone else has noticed any issues since the last update with the beta clutch bitepoint firmware or if it was just me as this would be helpful in narrowing down the culprit being software and not hardware.

 

[DrOrzy]

Thanks DrOrzy, I’m not really sure what you mean by reflagging the firmware. I got the GT3 like the beginning of June and followed the instructions to a T making sure to update before attaching rim to base for first time and then attached it and updated wheel etc. started having problems immediately in PC2 on ps4 and forza7 but most message boards and forums etc were saying that since it was brand new it was most likely going to need another driver update so not to freak out. Can’t remember exactly the time line but another driver update was pushed out again fairly quickly after that and seemed to correct most of the issues. Seems like maybe end of July perhaps, my peddles started acting up so I hooked it up to pc again and somehow I must of messed up the firmware update because the base did its normal reboot after flash but it was doing the flashing red/blue light warning and wouldn’t start up so I had to reinstall everything and flash again and it worked. Then about maybe a week or 2 ago is when it started doing the crazy back and forth on its own and started losing the degrees of rotation in race. This time I completely uninstalled the whole driver software from computer, redownloaded then hooked wheel up and reflashed.
I apologize if I didnt come across correctly when I posted earlier, I wasn’t seeking specific GT3 rim issues per say but just if anyone else has noticed any issues since the last update with the beta clutch bitepoint firmware or if it was just me as this would be helpful in narrowing down the culprit being software and not hardware.

Yeh sorry, I meant “Reflashing” which you have done and doesn’t seem to have helped.

 

[Melbourne Park]

Yeh - re-flash the software for each device, of course re-cal the brakes as well. Check the pins on the wheel, and inside the hub - where the wheel attaches too. And make sure they are absolutely clean. Vacuum or blow air into them. Its out of warranty - but if you were in Australia you'd still have a claim. There are electrical sprays too that can fix contact issues. Ensure the wheel is firmly attached. Change the cables too - you may have a printer with one of those USB cables ... those types of USB cables regularly fail. If your buying something from Amazon their cables are cheap and good but the cost is in the shipping, so buy them with something else. A gift for your partner?

And oh ... yeh contact Fanatec.

Good luck

 

[PocketZeven]

I know about the support people because some parts were missing, and their support was delayed and of no assistance. I have simply gone into dispute mode with Paypal, and I will ring Germany their work time. If its dead on arrival then that is just not good enough, but if it was retailed it would not be a problem, because you go to the retailer and they sort everything out. But dealing direct, it is quite difficult because they don't respond immediately, which I guess indicates that they have so many problems their support personnel cannot respond in a timely fashion.

Australian law though does have some power for me, and if they reject the return of their goods, I will just go to consumer law and I'll go to court. They'll then have costs awarded against them, which will hurt them. They'll have to get a local lawyer too, and since they are not locally based, they won't be able to get a lawyer to represent them. And if they did, that lawyer would cost them thousands. And they'd still loose. They cannot win in an Australian Court if the goods were faulty and the product was dead on arrival. I'll then get my costs for sure on top of my monies back, because they'd be dumb to arrange a lawyer. And not to pay me after a court order is a criminal offense and then the company would be in serious trouble. Meanwhile I'll be using a reliable product and enjoying my sim racing again.

IMO their quality is not good enough to sell direct. They need to sell via a local distributor, and perhaps to retail their product so that the retailer can handle any quality issues. That way the customer doesn't get frustrated, as you surely are. I am frustrated too ... I have no confidence that the product they may offer to send me will work either. If mine did pass a quality check, it means their quality assurance process is non functional. I want a result, immediately. But that doesn't look likely. Meanwhile I can go to lots of places and get a Thrustmaster or even a Logitech and if it doesn't work I can return straight away without any time wasting.

Direct marketing works if your quality is excellent. Fanatec's isn't.

I've also stopped my interest in the DD products, because it would be worse spending lots on something that will have quality issues. I saw the Elite as a stopgap to a DD product. This failure at least has relieved me of grief in buying a faulty DD wheel setup, and for the PS4 product, having to buy an F1 wheel, likely at a high total package cost. So the good news for me is that I can put Fanatec into the rubbish bin of high claims but broken promises.

I'll likely get a Drivehub and run the G27 and buy some quality pedals so that I get good braking, which is the key for speed I reckon. I might get the top Thrustmaster setup but I suspect that their brakes (pedals) are not worthwhile. The V3s look good but I no longer have confidence in Fanatec and if their support on a brand new product is bad, down the track it will be worse. And since the V3 pedals require a Fanatec product to work, then I can return the V3 pedals as they were part of the purchase.

I am also going to contact Sony too, as this is a product that is approved by them, and it doesn't work.

I recommend writing an e-mail with you complaints in depth. It is always frustrating to receive a faulty product. I do know fanatec are actively recruiting people for customer support. An online only company like Fanatec should have 24h support or localized, because of the various timezones. Fanatec has grown quite a bit the past year and probably having growing pains. It might be as simple as having a team operating support 24/7 or setting up localized offices/distribution centers. If you go through this and other threads there are also a lot of customers who are perfectly happy with their received product.

That said, in my opinion selling online internationally should provide the same customer experience wherever you live. I hope Fanatec will be forthcoming for you and fix your problem asap.

 

[Melbourne Park]

I recommend writing an e-mail with you complaints in depth. It is always frustrating to receive a faulty product. I do know fanatec are actively recruiting people for customer support. An online only company like Fanatec should have 24h support or localized, because of the various timezones. Fanatec has grown quite a bit the past year and probably having growing pains. It might be as simple as having a team operating support 24/7 or setting up localized offices/distribution centers. If you go through this and other threads there are also a lot of customers who are perfectly happy with their received product.

That said, in my opinion selling online internationally should provide the same customer experience wherever you live. I hope Fanatec will be forthcoming for you and fix your problem asap.

I've been in contact and the wheel is working, all things should be resolved I reckon.

 

[Melbourne Park]

I've been in contact and the wheel is working, all things should be resolved I reckon.

The missing nut for the wheel will be sent; I've been too busy but to get a replacement for the basic LC pedal set - I still have to send a video of the faulty bolt. I pulled the LC pedals out of the box because my new V3 Clubsport pedals were not working ... having put in networks computerising newspapers in the 1989 -1991, with switched networks and everything attached to a server - I well know that 99% of computer issues relate to the network. But I didn't check the USB cable ... it was much shorter than the long one which came with the LC pedals. But I had already opened the LC pedal box, and the LC pedals had much longer USB cable - twice the length of the Clubsport quite short USB cable - and that was a better fit on my rig ... it turned out to simply be a faulty USB cable. A network failure issue ..... A very low probability IMO. But one that I should have considered.

The manual said use the supplied cables ... in my case that was bad advise!! My brain had locked in to use their USB cables. I have several of them in my home office. In an IT box in a cupboard. I know too that with those types of typically printer USB cables, they do suddenly fail, without anything else changing. I have changed three in the last couple of years at home. I have a few printers with those types of USB cables. I don't know why but those squared ended USB cables are not reliable in my experience.

Anyway when packing up the LC pedals - which I bought purely to sell with the Elite PS4 wheel when I buy a DD wheel - the last bolt and nut I removed jammed. I cannot remove it. But support wants a video. I will send that this weekend. They've promised a replacement. I appreciate that because I wanted to sell the LC pedals as brand new. I've never had a nut fail in may life and to have it suddenly fail when undoing mid way ... quite strange. Its a lock nut and I guess the lock plostic slipped partially off and caused the nut to go off its thread. It was half undone when it happened. Quite frustrating. The bolts appear to be alloy. Not sure why alloy, it must cost more than conventional steel. Would never rust ... and nice in a race yacht to save weight ... although salt water would restrict their life ... I guess their light weight makes them easy to assemble though.

The lock nuts cannot be decent quality though. Chinese unreliability. A close friend of mine (Adelaide guy and now just retired engineer) is a director / shareholder of a fastening company, in Melbourne,. They considered shutting it down when the motor industry left Australia. They are now supplying to Tesla in the USA. The Chinese are cheaper, but this Melbourne business can make a fastener in a week and ship it - and it will work, perfectly, reliably, always. The Chinese take months and the quality isn't there. The problem is that the Chinese just don't understand quality with fastenings, and neither does the guy who buys them at Fanatec in China. I'd bet its happened before too, because I wasn't doing anything unusual - just half way through undoing a nut from a bolt, and not with a power tool. Ridiculous.

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

The lock nuts cannot be decent quality though. Chinese unreliability. A close friend of mine (Adelaide guy and now just retired engineer) is a director / shareholder of a fastening company, in Melbourne,. They considered shutting it down when the motor industry left Australia. They are now supplying to Tesla in the USA. The Chinese are cheaper, but this Melbourne business can make a fastener in a week and ship it - and it will work, perfectly, reliably, always. The Chinese take months and the quality isn't there. The problem is that the Chinese just don't understand quality with fastenings, and neither does the guy who buys them at Fanatec in China. I'd bet its happened before too, because I wasn't doing anything unusual - just half way through undoing a nut from a bolt, and not with a power tool. Ridiculous.

Thanks for your feedback Melbourne Park. This is an area we are actively improving.

 

[Krassi]

How would you rate it's console/Ps4 compatibility? From my experiences with two wheel bases, i wouldn't rate it that high... Both console & game support:

- After the first calibration it's pointing anywhere from rare 0° to regular 45° to right, so manual recentering is required. Works fine on PC, but the calibrated center position just wont carry over to PS4.

- Very often it will go off-center by few degrees after sudden fast steering: contact, curb & fast countersteer/drifting... <- Doesn't occur everytime in AC or PCars 2, but sometimes i can't do a single lap without having to stop and recenter.

- I have DiRT Rally, PCars 2, GTS and Assetto Corsa on PS4... AC is the only game with proper CSL Elite Support. (Excluding the off-center issue that occurs with any game on Ps4 except GTS)

For me it's almost never plug-in & race, like Logitechs and Thrusmasters were... Eventually i can set it to work properly, but quite often it's time consuming & frustrating.

The missing nut for the wheel will be sent; I've been too busy but to get a replacement for the basic LC pedal set - I still have to send a video of the faulty bolt. I pulled the LC pedals out of the box because my new V3 Clubsport pedals were not working ... having put in networks computerising newspapers in the 1989 -1991, with switched networks and everything attached to a server - I well know that 99% of computer issues relate to the network. But I didn't check the USB cable ... it was much shorter than the long one which came with the LC pedals. But I had already opened the LC pedal box, and the LC pedals had much longer USB cable - twice the length of the Clubsport quite short USB cable - and that was a better fit on my rig ... it turned out to simply be a faulty USB cable. A network failure issue ..... A very low probability IMO. But one that I should have considered.

The manual said use the supplied cables ... in my case that was bad advise!! My brain had locked in to use their USB cables. I have several of them in my home office. In an IT box in a cupboard. I know too that with those types of typically printer USB cables, they do suddenly fail, without anything else changing. I have changed three in the last couple of years at home. I have a few printers with those types of USB cables. I don't know why but those squared ended USB cables are not reliable in my experience.

Anyway when packing up the LC pedals - which I bought purely to sell with the Elite PS4 wheel when I buy a DD wheel - the last bolt and nut I removed jammed. I cannot remove it. But support wants a video. I will send that this weekend. They've promised a replacement. I appreciate that because I wanted to sell the LC pedals as brand new. I've never had a nut fail in may life and to have it suddenly fail when undoing mid way ... quite strange. Its a lock nut and I guess the lock plostic slipped partially off and caused the nut to go off its thread. It was half undone when it happened. Quite frustrating. The bolts appear to be alloy. Not sure why alloy, it must cost more than conventional steel. Would never rust ... and nice in a race yacht to save weight ... although salt water would restrict their life ... I guess their light weight makes them easy to assemble though.

The lock nuts cannot be decent quality though. Chinese unreliability. A close friend of mine (Adelaide guy and now just retired engineer) is a director / shareholder of a fastening company, in Melbourne,. They considered shutting it down when the motor industry left Australia. They are now supplying to Tesla in the USA. The Chinese are cheaper, but this Melbourne business can make a fastener in a week and ship it - and it will work, perfectly, reliably, always. The Chinese take months and the quality isn't there. The problem is that the Chinese just don't understand quality with fastenings, and neither does the guy who buys them at Fanatec in China. I'd bet its happened before too, because I wasn't doing anything unusual - just half way through undoing a nut from a bolt, and not with a power tool. Ridiculous.

The major difference between Chinese production and USA/EU/AU IMO is that in the world out of China when we produce something we start factory or company for this specific products line and we are focused on that. In China most of the so called factories are small production lines that changed production depending what products are sold and they have orders from European companies for example. Today they build tablets, tommorow power banks, next week toy drones etc... ofcourse the Apple factory and some other giants are different story. The Chinese small factories model is more flexible, if we ( EUrope/US) cant manage to sell our production we go out of bussiness. If they cant sell their production they change the production line over night and will sell again All this ofcourse hits the quality and that`s why Chinese products are with poor quality sometimes...infact I am suprised that Fanatec keeps in general good quality level. And I am suprised , because they use temporary production line ,too I believe. To hold a small factory only for you - you need to order huge amount of products monthly.