Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

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Krassi
I meaned Fanatec says to PS4/GT what is what...if PD understand button A on CSL rim and dont understand button A on Porsche rim for example - that means that dont receive correct input info. For example look at DriveHUb device - no matter which wheel you plug in it if it is supoprt - work on both consoles correct (not counting some problems sometimes) but in general everything works fine. This is because Drivehub gives the correct info to PS4/GTSport or other title.
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I think DomB_Fanatec could answer this for sure.

I think (i might be wrong) that Gtsport has not the option to use every input that is available. Also DriveHub is a device emulator, can you assign more through it ?
 
ANDRITSOULAS
I think DomB_Fanatec could answer this for sure.

I think (i might be wrong) that Gtsport has not the option to use every input that is available. Also DriveHub is a device emulator, can you assign more through it ?
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In consoles in general you are limited to what the controler have like inputs, nothing more...ofcourse in some cases like the T-GT rim with rotary encoders you can use some extra features....If the Fanatec rim have extra buttons - those can be duplicated. Fanatec need to give you all official buttons for use ingame. If on one rim for example Porsche rim you have all buttons matching like count the official CSL Elite rim - than everything is fine and working for me.
 
Krassi
In consoles in general you are limited to what the controler have like inputs, nothing more...ofcourse in some cases like the T-GT rim with rotary encoders you can use some extra features....If the Fanatec rim have extra buttons - those can be duplicated. Fanatec need to give you all official buttons for use ingame. If on one rim for example Porsche rim you have all buttons matching like count the official CSL Elite rim - than everything is fine and working for me.
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I think the T-gt encoders are there for the Gt Sport and Gt Sport has the option since it is official Gtsport wheel.

I wish by the time PS4 DD wheel reaches it's customers and if we consider that the TM - PD contract will not be endless, i can see Fanatec making an agreement with Polyphony to produce a Gran turismo rim at least, or even in a bundle with the dd wheel as the GT oficial wheel.
 
I have both the Elite wheel that I bought with the Elite wheelbase for PS4 etc. I did not like the wheel. I then bought the porsche club sport one, which is actually worth I was immediately faster, its larger, and it has a dished configuration which feels real. Interestingly despite its extra weight it provides more feedback IMO, probably because of the grip. The grip is georgeous. Plus its cheaper than buying a real 911.

But ... you can configure the Elite wheel in the game - you can change the button functions around. But the Porsche wheel - it does not appear at all in the game. I have the latest drivers for everything. Also the wheel vibrates over bumps and stuff too - so the wheelbase is communicating to the wheel. The wheel has vibration tech inside it, and it works on GT Sport. It came two upgrades ago ...

BUT - if I spin, often the car becomes crazy. I have had to re-set the wheel while on the track ... That RUINS your whole pleasure. So you simply cannot crash. And if someone else punts you off, there is a 25% chance you won't be able to control the car from then on ... my time currently for the 'Ring race on soft tyres is OK for a B class new driver who is 65 years old in January - 8:16.391 - and there is quite a bit more to come if I did some more laps. But in the races, I get pushed off the track and then its Over Baby.

And heck - I'd like to sound my horn, flash my lights, and program my buttons. Sheesh
 
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Im sure you can map your porsche buttons in GTS. You just have to find out the button codes. Check and compare the mappings in the quickguides of both of your wheels. I use the F1 and Mclaren wheel in GTS and changed the buttons to my preferences...they also dont appear in the options. No problem, works fine.

Edit: there is no horn in GTS

Edit2: There is a PS4 button mapping in Fanatecs Quickguide of the Porsche rim. So easy. I cant see any problem to program buttons in GTS.
 
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Strange but PCars (1) missing CSL. Just doesn't see it at all. GTSport is ok.
Couple of times I played PCars. But maybe there was an update... Anyway somehow it's numb now. What can be the case?
 
Litchi
Why you deleted your post? Got an alert cause you tagged me. I'm curious of what you said ahah
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Sorry about that... It was mainly directed to Igor's question "what's new in 311 driver?". I wrote what i've experienced with the latest 476 firmware, but i remembered you(?) mentioning that the 'spring effect' feels different around the center, that's why i tagged you.
Beta firmware 476 feels more dampened and less reactive to sudden moves like bumps, curbs etc... Whereas 335 is more direct.
 
Igor_K_Art
There's a thump or some kind of a clank, short rattle noise when quick changing a direction on a CSL base. Is that normal?
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I've noticed something similiar aswell. I'd describe it as FFB deadzone or 'hollow FFB' (i hear it in the base, but can't quite feel it in the steering).
For example if i set FEI 100 in AC, i can hear constant rumble (mainly quiet with louder clanks during bumps) in the wheel base, but unlike before i can't quite feel it in the steering... Sound similiar?

It kinda feels like there's a loose part (gear/belt): so instead of bringing FFB detail to my hands, near all the subtle forces are either lost halfway or brought back to the base.
 
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Knukel
I've noticed something similiar aswell. I'd describe it as FFB deadzone or 'hollow FFB' (i hear it in the base, but can't quite feel it in the steering).
For example if i set FEI 100 in AC, i can hear constant rumble (mainly quiet with louder clanks during bumps) in the wheel base, but unlike before i can't quite feel it in the steering... Sound similiar?

It kinda feels like there's a loose part (gear/belt): so instead of bringing FFB detail to my hands, near all the subtle forces are either lost halfway or brought back to the base.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I've got mate!
I don't know whether this is a fault equipment or just compromised entry level base.
Disappointed with all that. I wish 2.5 base have had PS4 support.
 
Igor_K_Art
There's a thump or some kind of a clank, short rattle noise when quick changing a direction on a CSL base. Is that normal?
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If you can clearly show the behaviour on video (with clear audio), the support team should be able to tell you whether it is normal or not. The CSL mechanism does generate some noise in some situations.
 
I'm on PC and just ordered a CSL Elite base/P1 rim tonight. I plan on using my T3PAs, already have the TRJ12 adapter.

My question is coming from a T150, what can I expect? Is there any tips or helpful tricks or is Fanatec still just as good as when I had my CSR Elite back in 2012?

Thanks
 
Corsa
I'm on PC and just ordered a CSL Elite base/P1 rim tonight. I plan on using my T3PAs, already have the TRJ12 adapter.
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Which base for PS4 or Xbox, because there is a difference in the drift mode. I have the Xbox base/P1 rim/TRJ12 adapter and the two pedal set from Thrustmaster T150(modified).
Corsa
My question is coming from a T150, what can I expect?
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Huge improvement.
 
Igor_K_Art
There's a thump or some kind of a clank, short rattle noise when quick changing a direction on a CSL base. Is that normal?
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That's real strange Igor. I just recently got my CSL Elite PS4 and mine is smooth as butter and no clanking noise whatsoever.
Out of curiosity, how is your wheelbase affixed to your stand or table? Is it with the table clamp with screw and handle? I wonder if the intermittent clanking noise or rattle you're hearing is coming from the metal handle? I taped mine to prevent it from shaking or sliding just in case.
 
super_gt
Which base for PS4 or Xbox, because there is a difference in the drift mode. I have the Xbox base/P1 rim/TRJ12 adapter and the two pedal set from Thrustmaster T150(modified).

Huge improvement.
Click to expand...

Exact same as yours, xbox base, P1, TRJ12, T3PAs.
Have you had any issues at all GT?
 
super_gt
No, I made two mods on the base but that's because I like to do such things and I'm too picky about some things.
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I'm already thinking about what I can do to the faceplate. I don't care for the grey digital print on the front and thought the PS4 base in all black looks better.
But, I couldn't justify the extra $100 being on PC only.
 
Sorry for the double post mods but I'm doing some custom work to my rig, I need to know using the supplied clamp does the CSL mount flush or does the rim angle up like many other wheels?
 
Corsa
Sorry for the double post mods but I'm doing some custom work to my rig, I need to know using the supplied clamp does the CSL mount flush or does the rim angle up like many other wheels?
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I hope this helps:

маса.png

2.png
 
In the CSL Elite (PS4) which of the steering in-wheel tuning setups/settings determines the tension of the wheel? (as for when turning the steering wheel left or right). Is it the DRI (Drift mode) or SPR (Spring)?

According to the manual the following descriptions I see:
DRI (Drift mode)
DRI range: -05 ... -01--->OFF--->001 … 005 DRI default: -05
"The drift mode reduces overall resistance of the wheel and lets you turn the wheel more easily. It almost works like power steering. It reduces the basic dampening of the wheel in the range of -05 to -01 and makes the wheel turn faster in the range of 001 to 005....."

SPR (spring):
Spring (pulls the wheel towards the dynamic center).
......Note: If SPR is set to low values or ‘OFF’ the CSL Elite Racing Wheel will not be able to move the attached steering wheel to correct center position after calibration run.

Reason for asking is I recently got a CSL Elite (PS4) and overall it feels pretty good, pretty much like how it relates realistically. It's just that while the tension feels pretty good going around fast corners, while going around tight/er corners the tension feels heavy whereby it's a bit difficult for turning in. I would like to be able to adjust the respective in-wheel setting so that the steering wheel tension is not as heavy to facilitate easier turning.

I had DRI initially at default "-5", and subsequently at "-2".
For SPR (spring) I initially had it at default "100", then lowered it to "50". Right now I have it I believe at "30".
I'm thinking maybe it's more the SPR (spring) setting?
 
davidt33
Reason for asking is I recently got a CSL Elite (PS4) and overall it feels pretty good, pretty much like how it relates realistically. It's just that while the tension feels pretty good going around fast corners, while going around tight/er corners the tension feels heavy whereby it's a bit difficult for turning in. I would like to be able to adjust the respective in-wheel setting so that the steering wheel tension is not as heavy to facilitate easier turning.
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Try to reduce FOR(Force).
 

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