Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[FMW]

I'm up and running using fw 455. The updates went perfectly without a single problem. ☺️

On the down side. I do have some coil whine. I only notice it while turning the wheel slightly while not racing.

By the way. Using a usb-c to usb-c doesn't work completely. I was able to us it, but when going through the modes it says that there's no usb connected and doesn't say which mode you're on. I changed it out after my first test and installed the provided usb cord to be on the safe side.

Interesting. You would think it wouldn't matter if you used USB C to USB C. For laughs I'll try it. Regarding "coil whine", my bases "coil whine" has progressed. Like you, if I sit in the pits, turn the wheel from dead center, the coil ramps up in pitch. For me a new thing has illuminated. When you turn the wheel while sitting in the pits of any game, there's a high frequency vibration that you feel in the wheel. That's new. Could be a firmware issue. Could be whatever is causing the coil whine is progressively getting worse causing weird vibrations.

 

[Jules_r]

Interesting. You would think it wouldn't matter if you used USB C to USB C.

Back with the DD Pro the last time I updated the firmware it took three or four attempts and I think it was because I was using a USB C > USB C because it was easier as the Fanatec supplied USB A > USB C was buried deep in my rig.

As soon as I used the supplied cable (with an extension) it worked first time with no problem!

 

[jimmy1971]

Interesting. You would think it wouldn't matter if you used USB C to USB C. For laughs I'll try it. Regarding "coil whine", my bases "coil whine" has progressed. Like you, if I sit in the pits, turn the wheel from dead center, the coil ramps up in pitch. For me a new thing has illuminated. When you turn the wheel while sitting in the pits of any game, there's a high frequency vibration that you feel in the wheel. That's new. Could be a firmware issue. Could be whatever is causing the coil whine is progressively getting worse causing weird vibrations.

On Friday after trying the wheel for the first time the coil whine didn't seem to bad, but I think I was just overwhelmed with everything and didn't realize just how bad it was. The amount of coil whine is definitely very high with mine. The frequency vibration is also very high. This afternoon I will send a support ticket.

Here's a video from my phone. Have a listen.

 

[FMW]

On Friday after trying the wheel for the first time the coil whine didn't seem to bad, but I think I was just overwhelmed with everything and didn't realize just how bad it was. The amount of coil whine is definitely very high with mine. The frequency vibration is also very high. This afternoon I will send a support ticket.

Here's a video from my phone. Have a listen.

Yup. Sounds about the same as mine. The FANATEC forum mentions support knows what it is and how to fix it. As someone who's curious about how most things work, I'd like to know what caused this in the manufacturing process. Loose screw? magnets inserted a certain way? Holy water was not used during the blessing ritual? Curious minds wouldn't mind knowing.

 

[FMW]

Very very sad and disappointed that I'm currently not able to get my Wheelbase connected with Project Cars 2...
No matter if it's set to Ps5 blue or Ps4 or ps5 /Ps4 compatibility mode... The base just simply doesn't get recognized at all.
Am I missing something?
On my DD Pro it was fine
@super_gt do you have any idea 😥

Well, sad news to share...I can't make neither Project Cars One or Two work. I had to update both games. I also got two warnings from the PS5 saying "you may experience erratic behavior during gameplay." Dark Blue Mode-NO JOY LIGHT Blue Mode-same, Compatibility mode-same again. In fact, the mode selection behavior is erratic. It took 10 attempts to get the light blue PS4 mode to come on. Once it did, it stayed there for 5 seconds then went to RED mode. Seems like the PS5 and these older driving games with the new base are in a dysfunctional relationship.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Well, sad news to share...I can't make neither Project Cars One or Two work. I had to update both games. I also got two warnings from the PS5 saying "you may experience erratic behavior during gameplay." Dark Blue Mode-NO JOY LIGHT Blue Mode-same, Compatibility mode-same again. In fact, the mode selection behavior is erratic. It took 10 attempts to get the light blue PS4 mode to come on. Once it did, it stayed there for 5 seconds then went to RED mode. Seems like the PS5 and these older driving games with the new base are in a dysfunctional relationship.

Thanks man for checking it out.
Indeed very strange as I never had any issues on my DD Pro playing them games.
Project Cars 4 is all I wish for... 🙏
A PC1 or PC2 game with up to date graphics... I'd be in heaven 😇

 

[FMW]

Thanks man for checking it out.
Indeed very strange as I never had any issues on my DD Pro playing them games.
Project Cars 4 is all I wish for... 🙏
A PC1 or PC2 game with up to date graphics... I'd be in heaven 😇

With this latest revelation about game compatibility, I'm inclined to keep my DD Pro even after I get my DD+ replaced or repaired. It would be nice to be able to go back and play some of the older games when I'm so inclined. Swapping out the base on my rig is rather simple though not ideal.

 

[Dep Fishtail]

FWIW

After 4 days of using my DD+ I could hear a very faint whine last night. The noise is extremely faint but there and the last thing I want to do is send it back for a lengthy process to have a fix.

My research last night was to find if this whine could cause damage or if annoying because I can’t hear it with my vr earbuds and so far my wife can’t hear it without me pointing it out. We’re old btw so some tone deaf lol)

I found the fanatec site stating it was not hurting the unit but instead it is annoying if at the level where it bothered you.
Don’t want to see anyone go through major time down right away if the whine isn’t bothering you. Maybe some point in the future if they catch up it can be taken care of but not like this is a must do unless you’re not able to live with it for now.

Grabbed the post and highlight the fanatec direction on if it hurts the unit.

 

[FMW]

IMO. Whether it hurts the unit or not, it's on them to return to you a 100% working unit with no coil whine once they fix the issue. If the unit was somehow damaged while you continued to use it, it's on them still to make sure the returned unit is 100% functional. I submitted my support ticket request on March 8. I have yet to receive a response, so I'm continuing to enjoy it until the day I get the RMA information to send it back. As Maurice has recently stated on the FANATEC forums, "SUPPORT RESPONSES CAN TAKE WEEKS CURRENTLY".

 

[BWX]

A lot of times coil whine can go away after some time. My PS5 had a ton of coil whine when new and now I can't hear anything or else it's so low I don't notice it anymore.

I used to be into high power LED flashlights as a hobby and some of them had a lot of coil whine. It was never a problem accept for it being annoying, and sometimes with enough use, it would go away. It happens on some GPUs when frame rates are uncapped. I had an RTX 3070 that did it pretty bad and now I have an RTX3080 that does it sometimes but only when frame rate is left uncapped.

My GT DD X doesn't have any that I can hear.. but the LCD screen on the wheel does sometimes. When it first comes on bright it made a lot of noise but I think even that has quieted down. Might want to make sure it's not the screen making the noise to be sure.

Anyways I was surprised when I read on Fanatec forum that they said it was a problem and to contact support. I think I read that, and it didn't make sense to me. Maybe they thought it was at first and now changed their mind? Anyways if my wheel starts making coil whine noises it would have to be very loud for me to return it because it really shouldn't hurt anything.

I've only had one disconnect since I sorted my firmware out. Not sure how many hours I have on the wheel since then but it's a lot.

I'm thinking when the PS5 has an update that fully supports this wheel, it should work in older games. That's just a hunch. 🤷‍♂️

 

[rsspyder21]

FWIW

After 4 days of using my DD+ I could hear a very faint whine last night. The noise is extremely faint but there and the last thing I want to do is send it back for a lengthy process to have a fix.

My research last night was to find if this whine could cause damage or if annoying because I can’t hear it with my vr earbuds and so far my wife can’t hear it without me pointing it out. We’re old btw so some tone deaf lol)

I found the fanatec site stating it was not hurting the unit but instead it is annoying if at the level where it bothered you.
Don’t want to see anyone go through major time down right away if the whine isn’t bothering you. Maybe some point in the future if they catch up it can be taken care of but not like this is a must do unless you’re not able to live with it for now.

Grabbed the post and highlight the fanatec direction on if it hurts the unit.

View attachment 1338542

How many hours do you think you drove on it before you began to hear the noise? Mine has been dead silent thus far but I've been so busy the past couple/few weeks, I've probably only put a combined 90 minutes on it since I got it installed on my rig.

 

[Dep Fishtail]

How many hours do you think you drove on it before you began to hear the noise? Mine has been dead silent thus far but I've been so busy the past couple/few weeks, I've probably only put a combined 90 minutes on it since I got it installed on my rig.

Probably 10-12 hours.
It’s dead quiet when starting up and after 30 minutes it starts. When I first jump on each day I spend at least 15 minutes just looking through rankings etc so not even driving at that point.

Noise level has stayed the same tho.
It’s like a squeaky dashboard on a rough road lol. Not a loud sound but a subtle almost squeaky sound.

 

[rsspyder21]

Probably 10-12 hours.
It’s dead quiet when starting up and after 30 minutes it starts. When I first jump on each day I spend at least 15 minutes just looking through rankings etc so not even driving at that point.

Noise level has stayed the same tho.
It’s like a squeaky dashboard on a rough road lol. Not a loud sound but a subtle almost squeaky sound.

I’m keeping an eye on it. Interesting that some people report it almost immediately but then there are these cases like yours.

 

[FMW]

I think if a base is dead quiet from the get go, you won't hear it develop later on. I have yet to hear people say their whine happened later on. I certainly hope this is something that doesn't develop later on as the product ages. The coil whine or whistle as some of us are now calling it, is a mechanical issue. I do have an update on my particular base. Since I'm still waiting for an RMA response from FANATEC, (It's been two weeks since submitted and counting...) I've been using mine a lot and it now has a grainy feel to it. No matter what game I play, the wheel feels grainy when you turn it. If you're chilling in a driving game menu, I feel a super high frequency vibration through the wheel. It doesn't hurt the driving performance as best as I can tell, but it feels annoying as hell. I tried playing around with the tuning menu settings to see if I can make is go away, but alas no. Maurice over at Fanatec said to others that have complained about the "grain" to contact support as it's a hardware issue and confirmed the wheel should be smooth. Since the coil whine whistle is mechanical it's possibly creating the vibration I'm feeling through the wheel. It's annoying.

 

[Kriptical]

I think if a base is dead quiet from the get go, you won't hear it develop later on. I have yet to hear people say their whine happened later on. I certainly hope this is something that doesn't develop later on as the product ages. The coil whine or whistle as some of us are now calling it, is a mechanical issue. I do have an update on my particular base. Since I'm still waiting for an RMA response from FANATEC, (It's been two weeks since submitted and counting...) I've been using mine a lot and it now has a grainy feel to it. No matter what game I play, the wheel feels grainy when you turn it. If you're chilling in a driving game menu, I feel a super high frequency vibration through the wheel. It doesn't hurt the driving performance as best as I can tell, but it feels annoying as hell. I tried playing around with the tuning menu settings to see if I can make is go away, but alas no. Maurice over at Fanatec said to others that have complained about the "grain" to contact support as it's a hardware issue and confirmed the wheel should be smooth. Since the coil whine whistle is mechanical it's possibly creating the vibration I'm feeling through the wheel. It's annoying.

Fwiw mine started after gt7’s ninja update last month. Sometimes the whole wheel vibrates. For a hot second i thought pd had implemented parts of full force and it was engine rpm’s (its ok to laugh at me). Guess i need to get cracking on my dd pro’s rma so ill have something when this thing gets rma’d.

That said. After a lot of exploration im back to @PirovacBoy ’s settings and they’re great for the 300mm wheel. Moved int to 2, for my 330mm and the rest same and its fantastic as well.

 

[Oi Oi JC]

Fwiw mine started after gt7’s ninja update last month. Sometimes the whole wheel vibrates. For a hot second i thought pd had implemented parts of full force and it was engine rpm’s (its ok to laugh at me). Guess i need to get cracking on my dd pro’s rma so ill have something when this thing gets rma’d.

That said. After a lot of exploration im back to @PirovacBoy ’s settings and they’re great for the 300mm wheel. Moved int to 2, for my 330mm and the rest same and its fantastic as well.

What firmware are you guys using?

 

[Kriptical]

455.

Waiting for full force to touch anything again.

 

[FMW]

Same. 455. No issues with 455. Not one single disconnect issue as a lot are reporting with 456.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Something very strange happened today.
I bought Crew Motorfest for my Ps5 and played it for maybe 2 hours.
I used my GT7 FFB profile and was absolutely surprised how well it felt.

Of course I did some FFB tweaks in game too until I got my personal decent feeling I was looking for.

So far so good.

Now comes the interesting part which made me scratch my head.

After I've closed the game I fired up GT7.
As soon as I was on track and left the pits I IMMEDIATELY noticed that the FFB felt very different.

To be precise it felt absolutely awesome.
It felt like pre 1.43 but with even way way sharper details, quicker responsiveness overall a much wider dynamic range and much heavier and firm.
I couldn't believe or comprehend what was going on when I noticed that suddenly the Display on my Rim didn't show anything.
I couldn't enter the tuning menu, nothing..
So I turned off the Wheel AND the Game, fired both up again and now the Wheel display was working again, YET the FFB still felt exactly as it did before.

Now that I was able to enter the tuning menu I immediately checked the Settings but to my surprise they were my regular GT7 Settings I always use.

I then closed the game turned off the Wheelbase but this time I also turned off my PS.
And voila it was back to normal again.

OK so far so good.

I thought OK let's try to replicate it.
I booted up Motorfest again took my BMW Z4 for a spin whilst using my GT7 Wheelbase Settings.

I played for a while and again closed the game but didn't turn off my Ps5 or my Wheelbase, I just fired up GT7 and AGAIN the FFB felt awesome and same as 1.43 again.

No idea what is going on there but I assume that because of the fact that GT7 uses a dynamic FFB Code it somehow doesn't get applied if having played Motorfest before.

It doesn't do that when I play ACC and go back to GT7, in that case GT7s FFB works properly.

But something with Motorfest obviously changes the FFB Code in GT7.

And one more thing I'm very convinced of too.
GT7 very much doesn't use the full 15NM of Torque on the DD+.
At least not in a way that does make sense to me if so at all.

Be it ACC or Motorfest these games feel way stronger on the FFB side.
I'm using Torque 5 in game in GT7 with 100% FFB Wheelbase side.
It should correlate to 7.5NM max Torque output In that case which definitely feels much weaker than using 50% of maximum Force Values in either ACC or Motorfest.

I'm very much convinced and assured from my observations that the max Torque available in GT7 is purposely capped to most probably 10NM at most.
It must have to do something with the dynamic FFB algorithm GT7 applies.

Same thing is going on with the Logitech G Pro.
Like @LOGI_Rich mentioned in the G Pro thread there's definitely something fishy going on with GT7 and the way how it calculates the FFB.

The only difference over there is that it's quite obvious because of the fact that the current NM output is shown on the Wheelbase Display which is not possible on the DD+.

I hope it gets addressed with the following and upcoming 1.44 update although I'm not sure about that.

1.42 definitely felt awesome and closer to the real 15NM of max torque.
No idea why they dulled it down but even with torque output of 10 in game in GT7 under 1.43 it feels way weaker than having had the in game Torque set to 8 with 1.42.

It all must come down to the dynamic FFB calculation GT7 is using.

At the end of the day it absolutely doesn't spoil the fun at least not for me. But definitely something to keep in mind and pay attention to the next time you guys probably play Motorfest or ACC.

Edit:
Another thing worth mentioning is I just found out that under settings/ Controller Settings, the DD+ is recognized as a Fanatec GT DD Pro (Boost Kit) which is 8NM of max Torque available.
I'm very sure that the Dynamic FFB Algorithm in GT7 is using this specific Values to scale and apply its FFB, despite having the DD+ attached and in use.

Let's hope that with the upcoming 1.44 update PD adds full native DD+ 15NM Support as well as full ITM implementation.

FullForce might take some more time to be implemented though but nevertheless native DD+ support as well as ITM can't come soon enough.

 

[dcmo3]

Well, Maurice is now saying that 457 won't be out until mid April. I've been holding out with 456, but the wheel disconnects are becoming intolerable. If I downgrade to 455, do I also need to downgrade the firmware. Really hesitant about downgrading, with all the posts I've seen on Fanatec about bricking their base.

 

[Kriptical]

Something very strange happened today.
I bought Crew Motorfest for my Ps5 and played it for maybe 2 hours.
I used my GT7 FFB profile and was absolutely surprised how well it felt.

Of course I did some FFB tweaks in game too until I got my personal decent feeling I was looking for.

So far so good.

Now comes the interesting part which made me scratch my head.

After I've closed the game I fired up GT7.
As soon as I was on track and left the pits I IMMEDIATELY noticed that the FFB felt very different.

To be precise it felt absolutely awesome.
It felt like pre 1.43 but with even way way sharper details, quicker responsiveness overall a much wider dynamic range and much heavier and firm.
I couldn't believe or comprehend what was going on when I noticed that suddenly the Display on my Rim didn't show anything.
I couldn't enter the tuning menu, nothing..
So I turned off the Wheel AND the Game, fired both up again and now the Wheel display was working again, YET the FFB still felt exactly as it did before.

Now that I was able to enter the tuning menu I immediately checked the Settings but to my surprise they were my regular GT7 Settings I always use.

I then closed the game turned off the Wheelbase but this time I also turned off my PS.
And voila it was back to normal again.

OK so far so good.

I thought OK let's try to replicate it.
I booted up Motorfest again took my BMW Z4 for a spin whilst using my GT7 Wheelbase Settings.

I played for a while and again closed the game but didn't turn off my Ps5 or my Wheelbase, I just fired up GT7 and AGAIN the FFB felt awesome and same as 1.43 again.

No idea what is going on there but I assume that because of the fact that GT7 uses a dynamic FFB Code it somehow doesn't get applied if having played Motorfest before.

It doesn't do that when I play ACC and go back to GT7, in that case GT7s FFB works properly.

But something with Motorfest obviously changes the FFB Code in GT7.

And one more thing I'm very convinced of too.
GT7 very much doesn't use the full 15NM of Torque on the DD+.
At least not in a way that does make sense to me if so at all.

Be it ACC or Motorfest these games feel way stronger on the FFB side.
I'm using Torque 5 in game in GT7 with 100% FFB Wheelbase side.
It should correlate to 7.5NM max Torque output In that case which definitely feels much weaker than using 50% of maximum Force Values in either ACC or Motorfest.

I'm very much convinced and assured from my observations that the max Torque available in GT7 is purposely capped to most probably 10NM at most.
It must have to do something with the dynamic FFB algorithm GT7 applies.

Same thing is going on with the Logitech G Pro.
Like @LOGI_Rich mentioned in the G Pro thread there's definitely something fishy going on with GT7 and the way how it calculates the FFB.

The only difference over there is that it's quite obvious because of the fact that the current NM output is shown on the Wheelbase Display which is not possible on the DD+.

I hope it gets addressed with the following and upcoming 1.44 update although I'm not sure about that.

1.42 definitely felt awesome and closer to the real 15NM of max torque.
No idea why they dulled it down but even with torque output of 10 in game in GT7 under 1.43 it feels way weaker than having had the in game Torque set to 8 with 1.42.

It all must come down to the dynamic FFB calculation GT7 is using.

At the end of the day it absolutely doesn't spoil the fun at least not for me. But definitely something to keep in mind and pay attention to the next time you guys probably play Motorfest or ACC.

Edit:
Another thing worth mentioning is I just found out that under settings/ Controller Settings, the DD+ is recognized as a Fanatec GT DD Pro (Boost Kit) which is 8NM of max Torque available.
I'm very sure that the Dynamic FFB Algorithm in GT7 is using this specific Values to scale and apply its FFB, despite having the DD+ attached and in use.

Let's hope that with the upcoming 1.44 update PD adds full native DD+ 15NM Support as well as full ITM implementation.

FullForce might take some more time to be implemented though but nevertheless native DD+ support as well as ITM can't come soon enough.

Discovered some strangeness yesterday. Booted up with univ hub v2 and the 330mm attached instead of with the extreme wheel. I was driving a gr3 mustang. The ffb was dull, tire directionality was faint, i might have thought everything fine if i didn’t know any better. That the stang was just a 💩 except the day before i swore it felt so much better. Also, i was 1.5-2sec off the previous day’s lapping time. So…i remembered this post and decided to power down and boot it with the extreme wheel. Then i swapped the 330m back in.

Boom

Tire directionality is back, weight transfer, grip, all of it…including my 2sec per lap. The mustangs a weighty beast. If you can feel the car it can be fun to drive but without good feedback its an etch-a-sketch disaster.

Moral of the story. Boot with the extreme wheel if you can as there is some hinky 💩 going on still.

Thanks for the tip. Would have thought the day before was just luck with the stang otherwise.

 

[BWX]

Well, Maurice is now saying that 457 won't be out until mid April. I've been holding out with 456, but the wheel disconnects are becoming intolerable. If I downgrade to 455, do I also need to downgrade the firmware. Really hesitant about downgrading, with all the posts I've seen on Fanatec about bricking their base.

That sucks. They are so flippin slow to do anything. Frustrating. Anyways it's no problem to downgrade, here's what I did:

Completely uninstall 456 driver from PC and reboot. Then install 455 drivers and reboot. Then hook up wheel and let it detect everything. Then update the base FW manually to the 455 driver FW version. I guess you can just leave the QR and Wheel FW alone as the problem is caused with the base FW. I think you must take off wheel to update QR FW, not sure about base FW but I think I left it on for that.

I ended up leaving 456 QR FW because it was goofy the first time I upgraded FW and temporarily made base not recognize wheel when the FW update failed several times. I guess not completely "bricked" but it was broken and not working, wouldn't recognize any wheel but it turned on at least. I didn't want to mess with that again so just left that QR FW on there. I've only had one disconnect issue since. It can still happen but it's not like 456 base FW which was constant disconnects.

Also never turn off wheel during boot up process as apparently that can brick your wheel.. which is ridiculous itself and should be mitigated through software and/or hardware but hey it's Fanatec and things seem to always be in perpetual beta phase. So just make sure not to power off or click the button during boot up process.

Check over on the Fanatec forum or reddit or something if you're wondering about exact process, above is just from memory.

 

[dcmo3]

That sucks. They are so flippin slow to do anything. Frustrating. Anyways it's no problem to downgrade, here's what I did:

Completely uninstall 456 driver from PC and reboot. Then install 455 drivers and reboot. Then hook up wheel and let it detect everything. Then update the base FW manually to the 455 driver FW version. I guess you can just leave the QR and Wheel FW alone as the problem is caused with the base FW. I think you must take off wheel to update QR FW, not sure about base FW but I think I left it on for that.

I ended up leaving 456 QR FW because it was goofy the first time I upgraded FW and temporarily made base not recognize wheel when the FW update failed several times. I guess not completely "bricked" but it was broken and not working, wouldn't recognize any wheel but it turned on at least. I didn't want to mess with that again so just left that QR FW on there. I've only had one disconnect issue since. It can still happen but it's not like 456 base FW which was constant disconnects.

Also never turn off wheel during boot up process as apparently that can brick your wheel.. which is ridiculous itself and should be mitigated through software and/or hardware but hey it's Fanatec and things seem to always be in perpetual beta phase. So just make sure not to power off or click the button during boot up process.

Check over on the Fanatec forum or reddit or something if you're wondering about exact process, above is just from memory.

The worst part of the process is if I do brick it, it will take Fanatec months to get my base back to me. I have the DD Pro in reserve, but I didn't shell out the money for the extreme to still be on the pro. I'm going to give it a shot though; the disconnects are driving me nuts, and always seem to come at the wrong time.

 

[BWX]

The worst part of the process is if I do brick it, it will take Fanatec months to get my base back to me. I have the DD Pro in reserve, but I didn't shell out the money for the extreme to still be on the pro. I'm going to give it a shot though; the disconnects are driving me nuts, and always seem to come at the wrong time.

I think if you just downgrade the base FW it'll be fine. I had exact same concerns! I also have a GT DD Pro (8nm) as a backup wheel so that helps. I'd definitely just downgrade the base FW and only the base FW and see what happens. I bet the wheel will work fine 99% of the time after that but the odd disco can happen even with 455 base FW.

 

[hrtrob]

The worst part of the process is if I do brick it, it will take Fanatec months to get my base back to me. I have the DD Pro in reserve, but I didn't shell out the money for the extreme to still be on the pro. I'm going to give it a shot though; the disconnects are driving me nuts, and always seem to come at the wrong time.

It’s been 10 days since I downgraded my base firmware from 456 to 455. Playing 1 to 2 hours a day, not a single disconnect. So glad I did it.

 

[dcmo3]

I think if you just downgrade the base FW it'll be fine. I had exact same concerns! I also have a GT DD Pro (8nm) as a backup wheel so that helps. I'd definitely just downgrade the base FW and only the base FW and see what happens. I bet the wheel will work fine 99% of the time after that but the odd disco can happen even with 455 base FW.

And that's what I did. Took a little bit (kind of rusty with PC's) to figure out how to properly remove 456, but I did. Update went without a hitch, but then discovered the wheel was upside down. Tried to use the centering process from the extreme instruction booklet, but that was a total bust. Drug the cockpit back into the unfinished basement, and hooked it back up to solve that. Actually got a little racing in; looks promising so far. I'm still ready for them to drop 457 though. That, and get my podium hub in.

 

[Oi Oi JC]

455.

Waiting for full force to touch anything again.

Same. 455. No issues with 455. Not one single disconnect issue as a lot are reporting with 456.

See, I am using 455 for my base and 456 for everything else and I haven't had a single issue with my DD Extreme.
Are you both using 455 for everything?

 

[PirovacBoy]

Another super annoying and odd discovery made today.
I tried to play Crew Motorfest with the Wheel that comes with the DD Extreme.
Guess what, of course it's not working.
Hooked it up to my Laptop to check for some Firmware Update, nope, no new Firmware.
It's on 1.0.3 which works fine in GT7 but unfortunately not functioning at all with Motorfest.
This thing is really starting to annoy me.
No Project Cars Support and now even Motorfest a game that has been out for 6 Months or so.
Ah well, so back to the McLaren Rim and off to figure out how to do the Drift Missions with an open Wheel... 😅

 

[FMW]

See, I am using 455 for my base and 456 for everything else and I haven't had a single issue with my DD Extreme.
Are you both using 455 for everything?

Yes. I have all the firmwares installed that came from PC Driver 455. Base, QR2, and both my wheels.( F1 2.5 and BMW GT2 V2) I have yet to have a disconnect on my PlayStation. Can't say the same for my DD Pro though, but that's a different issue.

 

[Oi Oi JC]

Yes. I have all the firmwares installed that came from PC Driver 455. Base, QR2, and both my wheels.( F1 2.5 and BMW GT2 V2) I have yet to have a disconnect on my PlayStation. Can't say the same for my DD Pro though, but that's a different issue.

Might be worth installing Driver 456 but just update the wheels, pedals and qr, leave the base firmware on the 455 driver