Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[hrtrob]

When you connect GT DD Extreme steering wheel to GT DD Pro base is recognized as CSL P1 V2 but the screen and buttons do not work.

Thanks for trying it out! I really wish they would make the DD Extreme wheel work on the other bases. I might keep my DD Pro to use as a second rig and would love to use the Extreme wheel on it too

 

[PJTierney]

This could be why the wheel doesn’t work on WRC currently.

To run the base on WRC you need to be in compatibility mode, which makes the game think it’s a GT DD Pro.

That base isn’t compatible with the wheel yet based on the above posts.

 

[crackhaed]

Mine showed up yesterday and I have been too busy to actually try it out but the wheel itself feels fantastic and I took some comparison pics with the GT DD Pro as well as an actual car. Definitely some similar styling cues to the Giulia which I love for immersion sake as it’s what I’m used to.

 

[BWX]

I'm going to like the larger wheel size more than anything else probably. The WRC wheel feels much better than GT DD Pro stock wheel.

BTW I just installed the metal QR2 and you guys might want to check the QR2 lite mounting bolts on stock wheel. They were not even finger tight, they were all extremely loose. I mean you could un-tighten them with bare fingers loose, but still screwed in all the way, just barely.

 

[crackhaed]

I'm going to like the larger wheel size more than anything else probably. The WRC wheel feels much better than GT DD Pro stock wheel.

BTW I just installed the metal QR2 and you guys might want to check the QR2 lite mounting bolts on stock wheel. They were not even finger tight, they were all extremely loose. I mean you could un-tighten them with bare fingers loose, but still screwed in all the way, just barely.

View attachment 1330787

View attachment 1330791

I was planning on swapping out the QR2 Lite with the metal one I have on the existing wheel anyway, I'll report back if mine are loose too.
The size is really great for sim racing. It's big enough that it feels so much more substantial but you can see its still nimble enough compared to a real road car that you aren't wasting to much time for quick inputs with long motions.

The shifters feel SO good. So snappy and it just feels wonderful to touch metal instead of that textured plastic.

 

[BWX]

I was planning on swapping out the QR2 Lite with the metal one I have on the existing wheel anyway, I'll report back if mine are loose too.
The size is really great for sim racing. It's big enough that it feels so much more substantial but you can see its still nimble enough compared to a real road car that you aren't wasting to much time for quick inputs with long motions.

The shifters feel SO good. So snappy and it just feels wonderful to touch metal instead of that textured plastic.

Yeah just installed on rig and updated all the firmware on PC. It's really nice, feels great! About to fire up GT7 and check it out. ✌

 

[Kriptical]

I find myself pulling and pushing harder than I should on my DD Pro. It's on a playseat challenge which is barely enough for 8nm, even reinforced. It works but I'm a pretty big guy and I've been doing manual physical labor my whole life so I tend to not understand the force I apply to things that others may not. It's probably best that it's on a flexible rig so the tubing takes the brunt of the force and not the actual wheelbase quite as much. I've definitely flexed it enough that I thought I broke it before but it's pretty tough for a cheap purpose built rig.

Haha

Yeah..i brake stuff too. To be fair..things aren’t really built to last these days

 

[FMW]

Hello there,
The following are my 99.9% Finalized GT7 Settings
Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 95
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 4


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 3
Sensitivity 8

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1

The Inertia 1 click filtered out some little bit weight shift twitchiness on corner entry and exit.
Made the Driving line a bit more precise and helped with stability especially when hitting corner curbs.

You may alter the torque settings to your personal fitness level as well as to specific Car classes.
These Settings work very well with medium down force cars like gt3 or gt4 as well as with many Production Cars.
With high downforce cars like Gr1 and 2 I personally lower the Torque Setting but again this STRICTLY refers to your personal strength and fitness level.

But the Baseline Settings feel pretty damn good.
Oversteer as well as Understeer and general Stability are felt excellent and very quickly.
Very intuitive and easy to understand what the Car is doing without any unnecessary signals which only distract and shift your focus away from what you should do and therefore interferes with your perception what's actually going on with the Car.
These Settings are very well synchronized so I highly advise you in case you want to give them a try to use the exact values, and like I mentioned, only change the FFB/Torque Settings if you feel you're fighting the Wheel too much.
Have a good one and hope to hear back some critical and useful opinions how you feel about them Settings.
I'm very sure you'll be delighted 😊

I tried your base settings and I quite like them. I did myself a favor and set up 3 profiles on my wheel, your settings, the one I've been tweaking to learn this new base, and one shared by YouTuber "Digit Racing". I got to say, yours is my favorite so far, but I did tweak two settings. My FFB is set to 53 and steering sensitivity is set to 4. For me 95 FFB is too strong for my current fitness level and SENSITIVITY in Game is a bit too direct, but with this new base I can see myself fine tuning that value depending on car and track. For reference, my testing tonight was done at Mount Panorama. I have a league race there tomorrow so I thought this would be a good gauge. The track requires your full attention especially at the top of the mountain. I want realistic feel and the ability to lap consistently quickly. Your settings with just those two tweaks was amazing and fullfilled my expectations! The Ford GT 2017 was a lot of fun to drive and the settings didn't kill me. Digits felt OK, but I think he sets up his base for a small F1 270mm wheel, where my wheel of choice is the 320mm BMW GT2 V2 wheel. Anyway, thanks for sharing! I'm sure we will all continue to find little tweaks.

In the meantime, do you have your final settings for your DD Pro? I'd like to load them as I may be using this base shortly as my back-up. 😬

Last thing...Fanatec released a new driver set today. 456 It has new firmware for the DD + and QR2.

 

[Kriptical]

Welp..that driver thing is exciting and terrifying!

Still running the wheel with the 300mm with int 4, 330mm int 6. Everything else off. Wheels up to 100. In game ffb 4 and oscillating between 1-8 for the sensi. More seems better. Im in vr and the wheel feels great. Very planted and connected to the road. Loss of grip doesn’t cause adrenaline spikes anymore. Its much more like irl where my hands and feet respond before my brain notices. Snap evasives in race felt so much better yesterday.

So far it’s what I’d hoped the dd pro would be.

 

[BWX]

I'll just say I'm pretty blown away with the speed, power, and precision of this thing. The GT DD Pro 8nm was the best wheel I ever used and this thing is definitely a big step up. Everything works perfect so far. My shoulders are sore after a few hours using it yesterday. 😅

Now I hope Sony/ PD update GT7 soon with full support for the wheel with "FullForce" and everything, that should be interesting.
But even as it is now, it's working great. Definitely no buyer's remorse here, this should be the last base I buy for a very long time.

 

[Kriptical]

Anyone have a link for a torque wrench small enough to do the qr2 swap? My wrenches are all too tall><

 

[Yard_Sale]

Anyone have a link for a torque wrench small enough to do the qr2 swap? My wrenches are all too tall><

I’m pretty sure I didn’t use a torque spec on mine…I just elbow’d it to what felt about right.

But, you should be able to use any torque wrench with an extension and a ball-end appropriate-sized hex socket

Depending where you’re at in the United States, you should have a Harbor Freight close by for some quick, cheap tools


Edit:

Actually, looking at a picture I took of my wheels when I did the swap at work, I’m pretty sure I just used a standard L-shaped hex and elbow’d it. I don’t think you’d even be able to get to the bolts with an extension and ball-end hex.

Second edit:

I just watched the install video and Fanatec calls for 3nm of torque. That’s nothing. You definitely don’t need a torque wrench for that, and even if you did…you’d be hard-pressed to find one that accurate measures below 5nm

 

[BWX]

After updating to 456 and firmwares my wheel is bricked. Base detected but wheel is like it isn't even there. No power, not detected. Did have issues with updating the QR2 firmware but it eventually took. Wheel was already updated. Now wheel is bricked. So be careful I guess. None of the solutions helped so far.

 

[Kriptical]

I’m pretty sure I didn’t use a torque spec on mine…I just elbow’d it to what felt about right.

But, you should be able to use any torque wrench with an extension and a ball-end appropriate-sized hex socket

Depending where you’re at in the United States, you should have a Harbor Freight close by for some quick, cheap tools


Edit:

Actually, looking at a picture I took of my wheels when I did the swap at work, I’m pretty sure I just used a standard L-shaped hex and elbow’d it. I don’t think you’d even be able to get to the bolts with an extension and ball-end hex.


View attachment 1330946



Second edit:

I just watched the install video and Fanatec calls for 3nm of torque. That’s nothing. You definitely don’t need a torque wrench for that, and even if you did…you’d be hard-pressed to find one that accurate measures below 5nm

Yeah. Its mostly because i’ve been on a destructive streak and am trying to limit//harness my stupidity. I’ve got a 1-5nm, but yeah its just really tight.

Re firmware: first. Im so sorry.

Second: im not touching firmware until and unless its necessary and relevant to full force implementation. That 💩’s a minefield

 

[dcmo3]

After updating to 456 and firmwares my wheel is bricked. Base detected but wheel is like it isn't even there. No power, not detected. Did have issues with updating the QR2 firmware but it eventually took. Wheel was already updated. Now wheel is bricked. So be careful I guess. None of the solutions helped so far.

That royally sucks. I've got a similar issue. I can be in the tuning menu and it just freezes. Or I can actually be in the middle of racing and suddenly there is no ffb. I can still steer, but there is no resistance. This effects both the extreme and my McLaren. Have no idea what's up, but I hope I don't have to rma. And yeah, I'm on 456.

 

[BWX]

That royally sucks. I've got a similar issue. I can be in the tuning menu and it just freezes. Or I can actually be in the middle of racing and suddenly there is no ffb. I can still steer, but there is no resistance. This effects both the extreme and my McLaren. Have no idea what's up, but I hope I don't have to rma. And yeah, I'm on 456.

Indeed. After quite a while of trying things I eventually fixed it. It was the QR FW update that kept failing. Tried about 20 or so times all in all and finally it updated after reinstalling wheel base FW first. Did a bunch of other stuff like delete all fanatec programs and reinstall, different USB ports, etc. Now both WRC and GT X wheels work. I could see a lot of people giving up though, it was the definition of insanity. Keep trying the same thing over and over and expected different results, but eventually my insanity paid off today. Firmware update software is buggy and barely works on this QR wireless FW for some reason. I'd be careful with 456. 455 worked fine, well not completely, there were hiccups there too and crashes, but no bricked hardware.

 

[PirovacBoy]

I tried your base settings and I quite like them. I did myself a favor and set up 3 profiles on my wheel, your settings, the one I've been tweaking to learn this new base, and one shared by YouTuber "Digit Racing". I got to say, yours is my favorite so far, but I did tweak two settings. My FFB is set to 53 and steering sensitivity is set to 4. For me 95 FFB is too strong for my current fitness level and SENSITIVITY in Game is a bit too direct, but with this new base I can see myself fine tuning that value depending on car and track. For reference, my testing tonight was done at Mount Panorama. I have a league race there tomorrow so I thought this would be a good gauge. The track requires your full attention especially at the top of the mountain. I want realistic feel and the ability to lap consistently quickly. Your settings with just those two tweaks was amazing and fullfilled my expectations! The Ford GT 2017 was a lot of fun to drive and the settings didn't kill me. Digits felt OK, but I think he sets up his base for a small F1 270mm wheel, where my wheel of choice is the 320mm BMW GT2 V2 wheel. Anyway, thanks for sharing! I'm sure we will all continue to find little tweaks.

In the meantime, do you have your final settings for your DD Pro? I'd like to load them as I may be using this base shortly as my back-up. 😬

Last thing...Fanatec released a new driver set today. 456 It has new firmware for the DD + and QR2.

My DD Pro 8NM Settings are the following

Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 100
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 2


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 5
Sensitivity 8

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1

Enjoy 😉

 

[Avenger2000]

That royally sucks. I've got a similar issue. I can be in the tuning menu and it just freezes. Or I can actually be in the middle of racing and suddenly there is no ffb. I can still steer, but there is no resistance. This effects both the extreme and my McLaren. Have no idea what's up, but I hope I don't have to rma. And yeah, I'm on 456.

There is a firmware bug in the DD+ that randomly, the wheel becomes unresponsive, display freezes, etc. It is for all wheels, not just the dd extreme wheel. They attempted to fix it in driver 456, but in one of the posts on the forum, they admitted it still freezes but hopefully less. It’s a random thing. Very disappointing. But your luck may vary if you encounter it.

 

[FMW]

It's probably safe to wait until the March PC Driver/Firmware update if the firmware in 454 and 455 are woking for you. A lot of folks are reporting issues with 456. Fanatec reps are saying the March update should resolve some stuff.

As more people receive their DD Plus's, I'm seeing more report the "coil whine" sound. From what I've read so far through different forums, some people report the sound is loud while others report the sound is very faint. The moderator on the official Fanatec driver release forum advises customers to "Please contact the support", "coil whine is a hardware issue". I wonder if that forum moderator doesn't want or can't diagnose the sound because he's part of the driver team and prefers "support" advise customers on whether the "coil whine" is normal or needs to be returned depending on severity of the whine. My base has the whine, but I'm also one of the ones on the "I can barely hear it" camp.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Hello everyone I just wanted to share a quick update on my DD + Settings for GT7
These have now been finalized and approved to give the best driving experience in my opinion

The following Settings are for GT7

Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 95
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 4


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 3
Sensitivity 7

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1

Hope u Guys enjoy them

Cheers 🙌

 

[FMW]

My DD Pro 8NM Settings are the following

Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 100
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 2


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 5
Sensitivity 8

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1

Enjoy 😉

Thank you kind sir. ☺️

 

[dcmo3]

There is a firmware bug in the DD+ that randomly, the wheel becomes unresponsive, display freezes, etc. It is for all wheels, not just the dd extreme wheel. They attempted to fix it in driver 456, but in one of the posts on the forum, they admitted it still freezes but hopefully less. It’s a random thing. Very disappointing. But your luck may vary if you encounter it.

It may be just coincidence, but I was just able to put in a half hour of racing without a hitch. The only thing different this time was I raced without my psvr2 (got tired of taking it off). I wouldn't think the power it draws from the 5 would effect the wheel though, so it was probably just a random thing.

 

[dcmo3]

Indeed. After quite a while of trying things I eventually fixed it. It was the QR FW update that kept failing. Tried about 20 or so times all in all and finally it updated after reinstalling wheel base FW first. Did a bunch of other stuff like delete all fanatec programs and reinstall, different USB ports, etc. Now both WRC and GT X wheels work. I could see a lot of people giving up though, it was the definition of insanity. Keep trying the same thing over and over and expected different results, but eventually my insanity paid off today. Firmware update software is buggy and barely works on this QR wireless FW for some reason. I'd be careful with 456. 455 worked fine, well not completely, there were hiccups there too and crashes, but no bricked hardware.

Glad you got it fixed. Real bummer to have to turn around and rma something, that you had highly been anticipating.

On a different note. I had been worried about coil whine, but I appear to have been spared that for now, although my ears ain't what they used to be.

 

[Avenger2000]

Hello everyone I just wanted to share a quick update on my DD + Settings for GT7
These have now been finalized and approved to give the best driving experience in my opinion

The following Settings are for GT7

Tuning Menu Settings
FFB 95
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 1
INT 4


GT7 In Game Settings
Torque 3
Sensitivity 7

ABS Setting Weak
Traction Control 1

Hope u Guys enjoy them

Cheers 🙌

If I find it hard to turn the steering wheel, should I lower the FFB in the tuning menu from 95, or change an in game setting? Thanks.

 

[Avenger2000]

It may be just coincidence, but I was just able to put in a half hour of racing without a hitch. The only thing different this time was I raced without my psvr2 (got tired of taking it off). I wouldn't think the power it draws from the 5 would effect the wheel though, so it was probably just a random thing.

It’s random, hence the developers having more trouble to figure it out.

 

[PirovacBoy]

If I find it hard to turn the steering wheel, should I lower the FFB in the tuning menu from 95, or change an in game setting? Thanks.

Always try to keep the Wheelbase Settings the highest possible and the in game Values as low as necessary or needed.
Keeping the Base as high as possible will assure that you have the most possible reserves in spare. It will allow for higher peak Torque although not used it's safe to have this headroom on the Base side.

 

[Avenger2000]

Always try to keep the Wheelbase Settings the highest possible and the in game Values as low as necessary or needed.
Keeping the Base as high as possible will assure that you have the most possible reserves in spare. It will allow for higher peak Torque although not used it's safe to have this headroom on the Base side.

So if I want to set it to less strength in GT7, do I just lower the in game torque setting or is there another setting to adjust? Thanks again.

 

[PirovacBoy]

So if I want to set it to less strength in GT7, do I just lower the in game torque setting or is there another setting to adjust? Thanks again.

You can lower the Torque Settings on the Wheelbase under FFB or in the Game Menu under Torque Settings.
Like I said start with 100FFB Baseside to assure your Wheelbase has all the constant 15NM available at any time.

Then start with the in game Torque Setting on 1 and work your way up until you find an area where it becomes pleasant. If you the go higher and it becomes too much, THEN adjust the FFB on the Wheelbase by lowering it step by step from 100 to 99 then 98 then 97 and so on UNTIL it feels perfect for you.

 

[Kriptical]

So my strange vibration was, in fact, barely tightened bolts on the back of the qr2 lite.

Wonder what the over/under is on full force coming with this patch.

 

[BWX]

That's crazy, all my bolts holding QR2 Lite on were very loose too. I wonder how many made it past the QC department in that condition? Glad I decided to switch to the metal QR2 before I plugged in wheel or I may not have noticed that. I usually do go over nuts and bolts on stuff like that but it shouldn't be a requirement.