Fanatec GT3RS V2 & CSP problems?

[andrez004]

So I just got my new gt3rs v2 & CSP yesterday and I have to say the thing looks beautiful. After a close inspection and hooking it up to gt5p I think I might have a few problems. I wanted to check with fellow Fanatec owners to see if I'm right.

First when I took the steering wheel out I noticed a little rattle coming from the wheel. After holding it to my head I noticed that it sounds like maybe a nut had been accidentally dropped in the steering wheel before installation. I hooked the wheel up to see if it worked and it does great, but the rattle coming from the thing every time I turn the wheel 180 degrees gets annoying fast.

Second the abs motor doesn't seem to be working correctly. When I fully depress the brake pedal the abs motor vibration is so weak I can't even feel it with bare feet. I notice if I very slowly release from full brake the abs motor comes on stronger for a very very short time. But when it does get stronger I can start to feel it in my foot. So the vibration is very faint and seems to have a huge varying degree with stroke. Now this doesn't seem right at all seeing I can't feel the motor and I can hear the pitch of it change. It doesn't vibrate enough for me to tell abs is on. I messed around in the settings for gt5p for a long time and the problem still exists. I made a video of the problem http://www.mediafire.com/file/5yfkyyury2f0pu6/pedals.3gp

Third the driver installation won't work on my computer. I keep on getting an error saying "There is a problem with this Windows installer package. A program run as part of the setup did not finish as expected. Contact your support personnel or package vendor." My .NET is fully updated and my PC run flawlessly. But that shouldn't make a difference with the abs motor should it? I wouldn't think so seeing the GT3RS V2 is fully PS3 compatible out of box.

So what do you guys think? I know the wheel problem isn't normal and the abs motor problem... well in my csp pedals the abs function might as well not even be there.

 

[UK-Gamer]

So I just got my new gt3rs v2 & CSP yesterday and I have to say the thing looks beautiful. After a close inspection and hooking it up to gt5p I think I might have a few problems. I wanted to check with fellow Fanatec owners to see if I'm right.

First when I took the steering wheel out I noticed a little rattle coming from the wheel. After holding it to my head I noticed that it sounds like maybe a nut had been accidentally dropped in the steering wheel before installation. I hooked the wheel up to see if it worked and it does great, but the rattle coming from the thing every time I turn the wheel 180 degrees gets annoying fast.

Second the abs motor doesn't seem to be working correctly. When I fully depress the brake pedal the abs motor vibration is so weak I can't even feel it with bare feet. I notice if I very slowly release from full brake the abs motor comes on stronger for a very very short time. But when it does get stronger I can start to feel it in my foot. So the vibration is very faint and seems to have a huge varying degree with stroke. Now this doesn't seem right at all seeing I can't feel the motor and I can hear the pitch of it change. It doesn't vibrate enough for me to tell abs is on. I messed around in the settings for gt5p for a long time and the problem still exists. I made a video of the problem http://www.mediafire.com/?5yfkyyury2f0pu

Third the driver installation won't work on my computer. I keep on getting an error saying "There is a problem with this Windows installer package. A program run as part of the setup did not finish as expected. Contact your support personnel or package vendor." My .NET is fully updated and my PC run flawlessly. But that shouldn't make a difference with the abs motor should it? I wouldn't think so seeing the GT3RS V2 is fully PS3 compatible out of box.

So what do you guys think? I know the wheel problem isn't normal and the abs motor problem... well in my csp pedals the abs function might as well not even be there.

Hopefully 'Fanatec' can get back to you, the rattling, is it like vibrating your wheel aswell?

 

[Madmurdock]

What setting do you have the Sho setting on your wheel?

The Sho dictates the strength of the vibration and includes the ABS, so make sure it's on 90 or higher.

Also lower the ABS to about 80. Don't have it on 100 and not too low either.
If it helps these are my settings:

Sen - Off
Ffb - 60
Sho - 90
Dri - 4
ABS - 78
Lin - 10
Dea - 10

It might be that you've just got the settings wrong.

Hope it helps.

 

[andrez004]

The rattling sounds like a loose nut is right behind the porsche emblem. I can't feel it but it rattles around when the wheel is turned.

About the settings... I'm sure I had sho up and down. I tried a ton of settings and watched a video on it. I thought the sho setting was vibration from two motors in the wheel linked to the throttle pedal? and isn't connected to abs function. But I'm going to mess around with your settings in a little while after dinner and see if anything changes.

Also when you press the brake pedal is the vibration constant? Like from when you have it set to engage to end of pedal stroke?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[andrez004]

OK so I tried those settings and it didn't make any difference. The sho setting didn't seem to make a difference with the abs pedal vibration. I think I fixed the link for my video. If you turn up the volume you can hear how the motor slows down the closer you get the full pedal stroke. The motor seems to vibrate enough only for a 1/8 of an inch or so after you back off full stroke.

Anyone else have these problems? I guess I will try to contact Fanatec tomorrow.

 

[bibio]

Hi, i only use PS3 at mo, but diff games, wheel reacts at least slightly diff, so i'd try a few diff games, even try a console if you can. Wheel can act diff when in a game diff to actually in a race etc etc. Can even be off centred, but when race start its perfect, strange. Same with vibration in wheel rim & CSP vib motor(its fairly strong so check its spinning OK, if you get SW OK on PC, you can check brake, Accel, clutch sensitivity & do a vibration test, which vib should be strong).
If it is something behind Porsche Emblem, i think plastic centre comes our easy enough, few Vids about dismantling).

Cheers BOB


Edit, info here:-

http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/3728 your not really doing much, removing just cap, just a look inside.

 

[andrez004]

Thanks bob for the info. For the wheel i"m just going to contact Fanatec and see what they say. I would hate to have them think i broke it because of me taking it apart.

On the abs info I just got GRID from a friend and will try it out. Also maybe my laptop can install the driver for it.

But from what you're telling me about the abs motor being strong... Mine is definitely not strong at all. I can only feel it for a split second.

 

[bibio]

Hi, try setting ABS coming on low say 20 or 30% or whatever, also try adjusting Potensiometer, this adjusts force required on pedal for braking(turn it fully clockwise, OTOH think thats least resistance). Then stand behind brake pedal etc, press pedal with your hand, look at little motor with off centre cam on it, check its spinning OK, also not getting stuck etc. Hope you get driver OK on PC, like i said this as a test function for vibration motor. ABS function setting on wheel, seems just a wheel pedal thing ie its not affected by any signal/ feedback etc from game. Not sure about wheel rim vibration, that might be.
Agreed better safe than sorry, Fanatec will prob tell you to look under cover, in PDF file in link, Roy as just used a screwdriver end on a swiss army knife, anything that won't damage cover etc.


Cheers BOB

 

[andrez004]

Thanks for the info just got done playing GRID and nothing has changed but I might be able to explain it better now. In both GRID and GT5P there is a brake meter for brake force. The Potensiometer knob will control pedal stroke to meet full brake force. Turning to the right turns it up. the cam behind the motor is spinning but it loses speed as I get closer to full brake. Turning the Potensiometer knob to the right and turning the abs to like 30 only makes the abs motor come on sooner, but it still loses vibration as I get closer to full pedal stroke. The motor seems to loose power the farther I push the brake pedal. Is your abs motor keep spinning at the same speed from when it comes on untill full brake? Is it constant?

 

[andrez004]

well I just sent Fanatec my first email about the issue hopefully they can take care of it quickly. Thanks again guys for the help. Awesome forum that I find myself visiting daily

 

[bibio]

Hi, don't matter which way you look(visually) at Potensiometer, the more you turn clockwise the easier it gets to get full brake force ie less pressure with your foot. Just off memory, when its starts vibrating, its constant good vibration(i'll check when i get time). So that don't look right on yours, is it feel, vibs , or looking at vib motor does it appear to be spinning less.


Cheers BOB

 

[andrez004]

Yeah I got the potensiometer knob thing down. I understand that. If I dial that clockwise and turn the abs down it has a bigger window but the motor still slowly vibs less the more I push the pedal. It's almost like the motor gets less voltage the farther I push it. At full pedal I can barley feel it. So the vibs isn't constant at all.

Thanks bob for spending the time

 

[bibio]

Hi, just done a test, one thing Sho, just seems to affect vibration in wheel rim.
Set Abs very very low, brake potensiometer fully clockwise, so easy to press pedal. Tried both pressing pedal with foot & hand. So Vib on brake pedal near enough as soon as you press it, when you get fairly down pedal travel, gets harder to press, all pedal etc locking up tight, vibration does feel a lot less & pressing pedal very hard you don't feel anywhere near as much vibration, because all parts locking up ie nothing to move as much, vibrate(its only a tichy vib motor/ cam, its not a Buttkicker).
While doing all this, well with your hand, if you get at back of pedals, get close to ground, were you can see the cam on vib motor spinning, even thou vib might feel less on your hand, as you press down hard, but cam/ motor just spinning as fast. Its just all mech bits locking up, so vibrations don't transfer as well. It is on mine anyway, as i said, motor & cam don't slow down. In fact in comes on, full speed, this don't vary, with brake pressure or whatever ie it don't get faster or slower, its not being controlled.
So look at your cam/ motor spinning. If its not slowing down, nothing wrong IMO.
Main thing i would have though, is how you set Abs up, its first feel of vibration thats important ie you set that point, were in game your going to lock up your wheels.

Cheers BOB

 

[gslooney]

try turning show to zero and tell us what happens with the pedal ffb does it stay strong?

 

[JHunt]

try turning show to zero and tell us what happens with the pedal ffb does it stay strong?

This was my thinking also......that is where my wheel is set

 

[andrez004]

Did you happen to take a look at the video I made in the first post. http://www.mediafire.com/file/5yfkyy...pu6/pedals.3gp in this video the little abs wire was routed right next to the cam making a ticking noise. You can hear the motor slow when i reach full brake and increase speed as I let off. I tried turning abs to 10 and the pontensio meter knob all the way clockwise and it helps a little. But with it turned all the way clockwise im just loosing available pedal stroke before full brake... so I'm basicly loosing adjustment. The sho setting doesn't change anything in the brake pedal. I have set it to zero already, and have tried 20% 40 50 60... I think sho only changes the wheel vibration and not the abs motor

 

[bibio]

Hi, looked at vid, but can't see anything, but if its a sound, i get no sound with the vid(Win Media Player).
I turned wheel fan off, now like you can hear motor/ cam . As soon as motor/ cam start spinning, right to full force on brake pedal speed of motor/ cam speed is constant(maybe first very little press, it seems to spin as fast, same force ie stopped with finger, it don't take much, but vib a bit weak for some reason, but not much diff really). My wires to the motor don't interfere touch cam at all, on all stroke of pedal. Got to be careful, i moved brake pedal foot pad over. It don't take much to slow/ stop, motor/ cam ie a wire moving & touching it.
Testing i have done, as been out of a Game, Sho & Wheel rim vibration might have input/ signal from game. But don't think Abs/ pedal vib as at all.
Well your motor/ cam works, would think unlikely its CSP FW, but ? And if wire is not touching on any part of pedal stroke, wires connected OK at both ends(conneced insde motor, then wire goes to white plug on PCB), can't even guess whats prob.
Good luck with sorting out it thou.


Cheers BOB

 

[andrez004]

As soon as motor/ cam start spinning, right to full force on brake pedal speed of motor/ cam speed is constant(maybe first very little press, it seems to spin as fast, same force ie stopped with finger, it don't take much, but vib a bit weak for some reason, but not much diff really)


Cheers BOB

Well a little update... I noticed the wire was interfering with the cam at full brake, but if it still slows a little at full brake and is not constant. It is better now though, and maybe it's normal. I wish a few more csp pedal owners would chime in. Maybe I'm just thinking it should be better for the money I paid. If it is normal than they really need to beef up the motor and make sure it's constant even at full brake. I can probably deal with it now seeing the wire isn't slowing the cam a lot. So BOB yours vibs a little less at full brake too right? Also I was using quicktime on the video.

Thanks BOB you have helped a lot!

 

[gslooney]

I have to agree, re the week feedback from the motor,, even playing in my socks, the sensation is not strong.. This could be something that's mod-able.. I'll need to think about that.. perhaps fanatec could come up with an add on for the V2 club sport kit with a stronger pulse..(I made that up .. I don't know anything about a V2 pedal set .. just thinking out loud!!)

If I come up with anything I'll let you know..

good luck

GSL

 

[andrez004]

I have to agree, re the week feedback from the motor,, even playing in my socks, the sensation is not strong.. This could be something that's mod-able.. I'll need to think about that.. perhaps fanatec could come up with an add on for the V2 club sport kit with a stronger pulse..(I made that up .. I don't know anything about a V2 pedal set .. just thinking out loud!!)

If I come up with anything I'll let you know..

good luck

GSL

well that makes me think mine might be fine. Does yours vibrate less when you push the pedal all the way down at the very last bit of stroke? And about it being mod-able... couldn't someone just find a more powerful higher rpm motor and fit the cam on? I don't know hardly anything about electronics but I would think it runs at a constant voltage so are main problem would be finding one that would fit and adding the cam... but that's just me talking out my backside.

 

[bibio]

Hi, basically once my motor/ cam starts rotating(it set to very low for testing ie 3) it spins just as fast at any point. Ignoring maybe first initial touch of pedal, seems as fast, but a bit less vib. When pedal gets to pressed very hard ie fully down, its spinning just as fast, you don't feel as much vibration thou ie all mechanical parts are locked up, so not much/ less to vibrate. I can certainly feel vib a little bit, with my slippers on
Its only really a warning sign that you personally set up, its first sign of vibration thats important ie when car wheels in game are going to lock up. After that its pointless, unless you like your foot vibrating
If all your mechanical bits on brake are fairly tight ie not much if any play, maybe you will feel less vibration. So each set of CSP's prob different.
Think someone on here as modded slightly, forgot exactly how thou. Cam is just like a off balanced flywheel. Stick a bit of Bluetack on it etc, it will give motor a bit more hammer thou., if you try to get too much extra vib.
Another thing, like if you move brake pad, make sure vib motor is aligned OK & cam not touching sides etc.


Cheers BOB

 

[andrez004]

cool good to hear that BOB. Mine sounds a bit more like yours now that I have that damn wire moved. It was shifting and just touching barely on the cam, and the rest might just be the binding of everything at full brake. Now I'm wondering how much weight you could add to the cam before it toasts the bearings in the motor.

 

[bibio]

Hi, if you look at motor/ cam, even try to stop it with say your finger & its spinning etc, just the same(nothing stopping it). Owt(Yorkshire) diff in vib, is due to mechanical/ physical transfer of the vibration. If its signal its getting or whatever, causing it to spin less, its a problem IMO.
Could connect a Buttkicker to the wires intead of little motor/ cam, but then you want a change of signal.
For me its just a indication of when your brakes are locking up, not that helps much for me, at present (F1 2010, PS3) i'm carp, bugs don't affect me , bit better with GT5P, but prob not much.
One thing, with Fanatec wheel, F1 2010 PS3, not used Spri or Dpr(?) even now, one thing i have noticed, trying to get it to be driveable(not shaking all over), Environment level(other settings don't help much) , seems to have a lot of say, just too much sgnal/ signals. Lowering Environment level, FFB, going over curbs etc still OK, but none, or a lot less shaking. Maybe Spri, Dpr, might help even more. Also wheel might not always be centred perfect, but when racing(not applic to me), even start of race not bang on centred, in race, its perfect. Weird. PS3 not PC etc.


Cheers BOB

 

[andrez004]

Well a little update... I'm on my third email sent to fanatec and no response. I have sent all the info they want and no anwser. Tomorrow will be a week since the first one.

 

[UK-Gamer]

Hi, if you look at motor/ cam, even try to stop it with say your finger & its spinning etc, just the same(nothing stopping it). Owt(Yorkshire) diff in vib, is due to mechanical/ physical transfer of the vibration. If its signal its getting or whatever, causing it to spin less, its a problem IMO.
Could connect a Buttkicker to the wires intead of little motor/ cam, but then you want a change of signal.
For me its just a indication of when your brakes are locking up, not that helps much for me, at present (F1 2010, PS3) i'm carp, bugs don't affect me , bit better with GT5P, but prob not much.
One thing, with Fanatec wheel, F1 2010 PS3, not used Spri or Dpr(?) even now, one thing i have noticed, trying to get it to be driveable(not shaking all over), Environment level(other settings don't help much) , seems to have a lot of say, just too much sgnal/ signals. Lowering Environment level, FFB, going over curbs etc still OK, but none, or a lot less shaking. Maybe Spri, Dpr, might help even more. Also wheel might not always be centred perfect, but when racing(not applic to me), even start of race not bang on centred, in race, its perfect. Weird. PS3 not PC etc.


Cheers BOB

To stop the shaking, add deadzone (deA)

 

[bibio]

Hi, thanks for reply, but tried adding deadzone, but didn't like feel of steering as much, & shaking still happened. Even before Spr & Dpr came out, i found Environment setting had most to do with shaking(even if not moving), its as if Fanatec wheel picked every little bit of signal from it, reducing it helped a lot & it didn't affect strenght of FFB etc. Sure using Spr & Dpr might help, but if i remember correctly, even after using FW 678, changing environment % still helped a lot more than changing Spr.
Another thing i had, steering was all over the place with F1 2010(got day it came out), like driving on ice, whatever settings i used, so not played much(same with Dirt2, so have to have another go at that). Might have been some settings that worked better, but never had time or inclination to to put much more effort into it. Since FW 678 for what ever reason, steering seems well better, now with patch out as well, ain't got much time, but certainly going to try & play it a bit more.
There's a lot of settings(wheel, nice to have thou & Game), & combinations, some must work better for the individual. But its sure complex at times
At least now, GT5P got set up OK, i have F! 2010 playable as well, so a lot happier Bunny
Only using PS3, could use PC but for TV rather than monitor its more of a Ballaxxe.


Cheers BOB

 

[andrez004]

Well Fanatec support finally got back to me today. They told me to pop the emblem off and I found a broken plastic tab. It looks like it was definitely meant to hold something in place. I have no clue what though. They also couldn't help me with my driver problem. I guess I'm the only person to see that conflict. Go figure... I guess I'm just the lucky winner on this one.

 

[bibio]

Hi, i'd take a pic of broken plastic tab, email it to Fanatec, see if they can identify. For prob a quicker response post pic on here also, a few seem to have took wheel apart or i think, done GT3rs v1 to v2 upgrade. Theres a vid i think & a PDF to do the upgrade, might glean something from those.
Yet again, touch wood, if wheel working OK, might be something irrelevant to anything ie accidently dropped in during wheel assembly, bit of a broken part that was replaced, or something with a function thats not that important or detrimental.
You say PS3, so assume by driver do you mean FW update for the wheel ?(driver nromally for PC use). If so your not only one, from what you say, ain't seen that thou. One peep on Fanatec forum, couldn't do FW even after turning off AV, Win FW etc, with i assume FW on desktop, he put it in 'C' root & it worked OK, could try that. Mind last time i did it for 681, did notice PTWS2 didn't work first try, tried again than it worked ie do twice & it works. Finding USB driver then, back in Booloader mode, who knows , done FW a few times(XP 32bit, Vsta 32bit, Win7 64bit), to make sure(678 & 681), weird'ist FW iv'e done ,so Good Luck.


Cheers BOB

 

[andrez004]

Here are the links for the broken tab. I have already emailed the pics to Fanatec and hopefully they email back soon. The driver is for the pc and the first thing you're suppose to install before connecting the wheel. The name of the fil is PW_32_driver_104 if that helps any. I can't get past trying to install that. I don't know if that's just the driver or FW or if I download the FW after or what. I'm not the most pc savvy, so I really don't understand all of what you said. From "C root" I'm getting take it off off the desktop and put it somewhere in the C drive. Looks like I need to spend some time on the google machine.

Link to images:

http://www.mediafire.com/i/?bm6mw0n7ck3ayx4

http://www.mediafire.com/i/?gh90zi4ywggy0aa

 

[bibio]

Hi, yeh, you take off desktop, click on My Computer > 'C' drive, prob called boot(its normally where your OS, Windows is installed, don't touch or put it in any of those Folders), paste it & run from there, delete afterwards, if you want to. Can't see why its a problem installing, while on desktop thou.
You can have problems sometimes with pathways being too long, like web address's get longer after say Home page of a site, pathways to where a file is stored on PC, can get longer & longer(character wise etc). Moving some Classical music, for example, can be a bummer . Can't see why its a prob here thou, but trying owt with a PC, does no harm, if it works, why its worked ?
A file as to have a location on PC HDD, or a USB flash drive etc etc, first place is normally called 'Root', before its starts branching off to diff locations, Folder in a Folder, in a Folder etc, till you get to the actual file. Pathway gets longer & longer, plenty of characters in each name of folder/ folders, & actual file, just too much for OS to handle or whatever.
As above prob nothing to do with your problem, but maybe for other stuff, click on My Computer > Users> prob your name or Admin> Music> Artist prob> Album> track. Look at Pathway to file gets longer & longer, No of characters count as well. Then say if your pasteing, theres pathway to that to consider. Prob see what 'Root' is now, i hope
Sorry for all the extra Bumf, blame the Beer a bit



Cheers BOB