- 100
- Canada
I figured out what it was. When I put any force on the right handle it cuts the connection to the buttons. I'm actually going to send it back today if I find the time.
Thanks for letting me know.
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Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread
- Thread starter super_gt
- 3,719 comments
- 541,612 views
I figured out what it was. When I put any force on the right handle it cuts the connection to the buttons. I'm actually going to send it back today if I find the time.
Thanks for letting me know.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
DD1 here since batch1 shipping, no problems. It performs sooo good
Universal hub with t500 rim mounted 
Best experience so far i have with this wheel is Raceroom.
Universal hub with t500 rim mounted Best experience so far i have with this wheel is Raceroom.
- 30
- Australia
- Noxrai
Hi. I've had my poduim racing wheel for almost a month now and have been absolutely loving it.
But the last couple of sessions I've had with it I have been getting issues.
During a session, it could be after 5min or 30min, all the buttons will not register. Including the paddle shifters. Yet actual steering and force feedback will be just fine. The wheel returns to normal after I turn it off then back on. But it has and will continue to ruin my and other peoples races if I am not able to fix this.
Anybody else getting this issue?
Edit:
Ok this is weird. I can replicate the issue on the exact same corner at Suzuka in GT sport everytime. Corner 7 (Dunlop Curve) to be exact.
It's unplayable now. I have quadrupled checked all my cables. I am in ps4 mode. I have re installed the podium base firmware, wheel base motor firmware and steering wheel firmware.
I can get through the esses without a problem. But as soon as i hold the the dunlop corner I lose all button functions. Switching the wheel off and back on again, i can do the rest of the lap just fine right until dunlop curve again.
Pc games seems to be ok. I'll have to test some more. So it could be a communication thing between the wheel and ps4 or gt Sport. It's just really weird how it triggers on the exact corner every time.
Im going to try other tracks and cars.
But the last couple of sessions I've had with it I have been getting issues.
During a session, it could be after 5min or 30min, all the buttons will not register. Including the paddle shifters. Yet actual steering and force feedback will be just fine. The wheel returns to normal after I turn it off then back on. But it has and will continue to ruin my and other peoples races if I am not able to fix this.
Anybody else getting this issue?
Edit:
Ok this is weird. I can replicate the issue on the exact same corner at Suzuka in GT sport everytime. Corner 7 (Dunlop Curve) to be exact.
It's unplayable now. I have quadrupled checked all my cables. I am in ps4 mode. I have re installed the podium base firmware, wheel base motor firmware and steering wheel firmware.
I can get through the esses without a problem. But as soon as i hold the the dunlop corner I lose all button functions. Switching the wheel off and back on again, i can do the rest of the lap just fine right until dunlop curve again.
Pc games seems to be ok. I'll have to test some more. So it could be a communication thing between the wheel and ps4 or gt Sport. It's just really weird how it triggers on the exact corner every time.
Im going to try other tracks and cars.
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- 100
- Canada
Hey man, I own a DD2 and Formula Rim 2018 and I had a very similar issue. I discovered that when I was driving and if I were to push too hard on the right handle of the rim the connection would simply cut off. The force feedback would still work but any button or shifter function would be disconnected until I restarted the motor.
My wheel is currently sent back for service.
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- 30
- Australia
- Noxrai
Update on my wheel. Im pretty sure i figured it out. I think the locking ring wasn't tight enough. (I have had it firm since set up)
So on certain corners with strong enough forces it must have just lost connection.
I've now tightened the ring further and it seems to have fixed the problem i was having. Im hoping this issue doesn't get any worse as the connection seems tenuous at best if my previous lock ring tightness was not adequate enough.
So on certain corners with strong enough forces it must have just lost connection.
I've now tightened the ring further and it seems to have fixed the problem i was having. Im hoping this issue doesn't get any worse as the connection seems tenuous at best if my previous lock ring tightness was not adequate enough.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
Sounds you guys just havnt mount and tight up the rim properly. You need a lot of force, arround 10kg of pressure till the rim sit on the right position(flop sound). Then fix it with that ring, strong again. Zero flex, zero problems. The rim is in the right position if you cant see the black rubber anymore.
Or its the same kind of failure that happens with the thrustmaster t-gt orginal rim after some days of driving. The rim was going crazy and pushed buttons by itself, always happend at a specific strong force and angle. Only new/other rim solved it here.
Or its the same kind of failure that happens with the thrustmaster t-gt orginal rim after some days of driving. The rim was going crazy and pushed buttons by itself, always happend at a specific strong force and angle. Only new/other rim solved it here.
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user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
I think the software was not even exist when they wanted to release the dd´s last year in dezember.
Now its middle of august 2019 and still no software.
Sweet little lies. But at least the wheels are awesome, if you lucky and get a working one LOL
Personally i dont even need this software. The important options are all on the wheel itself.
Using 3 profiles so far, first one for all sims on pc, second for arcade/fun racing on pc, thirt for gt-s on ps4.
Now its middle of august 2019 and still no software.
Sweet little lies. But at least the wheels are awesome, if you lucky and get a working one LOL
Personally i dont even need this software. The important options are all on the wheel itself.
Using 3 profiles so far, first one for all sims on pc, second for arcade/fun racing on pc, thirt for gt-s on ps4.
- 210
- Earth
- BadFlounder
- BadFlounder
This is so much me. I work as an Email/IM Engineer....working on servers all day, etc. After work, I usually don't want to deal with an OS, drivers, and fiddle with various programs, etc. More power to those that enjoy that aspect of PC gaming, but I prefer the PS4/Xbox experience of just turning it on and playing. But to each their own; I love that we have quality racing options on both PC and console to satisfy all preferences!
Same here - I work in IT but also work from home. When I try to play with PC I feel I should be working. PS3/PS4 saved me from going insane. Before I was avid PC simracer.
- 5,051
- Netherlands
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
Can you make a picture of your rim sitting on quikrelease?
This is how it should look. Zero flex zero problems.
This is how it should look. Zero flex zero problems.
- 30
- Australia
- Noxrai
I can see a slight difference. I'm confident I've got the wheel rim pushed in as far as it can go and I've screwed it very firmly.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
Looks like its not realy 100% in the right place. There looks way to much black rubber outside. Probably this the reason why you got this errors 
I think you have tryed serval times already but try again, remove rim and then push it realy hard into the shaft, till this blue thing snaps into his position.
Or maybe there are some screws no tight on the rim itself? Or maybe you realy one of the unlucky ones. But the fanatec support are cool guys, they help you!
Check the rubber before you put back your rim again I have did pictures with 3 wrong szenarios and the right one.
I think you have tryed serval times already but try again, remove rim and then push it realy hard into the shaft, till this blue thing snaps into his position.
Or maybe there are some screws no tight on the rim itself? Or maybe you realy one of the unlucky ones. But the fanatec support are cool guys, they help you!
Check the rubber before you put back your rim again
I have did pictures with 3 wrong szenarios and the right one.
- 30
- Australia
- Noxrai
Thank you for your helpful pictures. No matter what I try, I can't seem to replicate your "correct" picture. It still looks like my original picture I posted.Looks like its not realy 100% in the right place. There looks way to much black rubber outside. Probably this the reason why you got this errors
I think you have tryed serval times already but try again, remove rim and then push it realy hard into the shaft, till this blue thing snaps into his position.
Or maybe there are some screws no tight on the rim itself? Or maybe you realy one of the unlucky ones. But the fanatec support are cool guys, they help you!
Check the rubber before you put back your rim again
- 100
- Canada
Looks like its not realy 100% in the right place. There looks way to much black rubber outside. Probably this the reason why you got this errors
I think you have tryed serval times already but try again, remove rim and then push it realy hard into the shaft, till this blue thing snaps into his position.
Or maybe there are some screws no tight on the rim itself? Or maybe you realy one of the unlucky ones. But the fanatec support are cool guys, they help you!
Check the rubber before you put back your rim again
Thanks for the descriptive photos!
I just wanted to ask in the "correct" photo. Is there still threads visible after you tighten the cog.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
- 100
- Canada
Excellent! thank you very much.
Sadly I'm still waiting for my steering wheel. It's been to service for over 2 weeks. With an additional week of travel time. Hoping to hear from them soon.
I want to drive the Senna GTR so bad!!!
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
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