Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

  • Thread starter super_gt
  • 3,719 comments
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Napalm_LT
@Zipperface do you have newer settings?
Click to expand...
hi, sry for the delay, i didnt noticed that im not banned(reason was that i sayd my opinion to the fast&furious movis) anymore.

have not changed this settigs now for couple of months. to me, it feels good. personal sweetspot arrived.
there are 2 main settings, one race setting and one drift setting that i use on all games and platforms. pc, xbox, ps4* *via drivehub
i just change ffb strenght ingame to reach clipping point(13nm peak). wheel settings i didnt touch anymore.

race setting:
SEN 1170°
FFB 52
LIN off
NDP 75
NFR off
NIN off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR off
DPR off
BLI off
SHO off
BRF 90

drift setting:
SEN 900
FFB 50
LIN off
NDP 40
NFR off
NIN off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 10
BLI off
SHO off
BRF max
 
Apart from the above from Zipperface, does anyone have any updated (firmware 400+) settings for the PS4 DD for GT Sport, F1 2020, or Dirt 2.0?

All the "recommended" Fanatec settings are pre-LIN/etc.
 
Carrera1963
Apart from the above from Zipperface, does anyone have any updated (firmware 400+) settings for the PS4 DD for GT Sport, F1 2020, or Dirt 2.0?

All the "recommended" Fanatec settings are pre-LIN/etc.
Click to expand...
Try this for GT Sport. Should give you a good base to work from. I tried to get as much detail as I could get from GT sport without the wheel getting too notchy and spiky.

FFB:22
LIN:embarrassed:ff
NDP:20
NFR:embarrassed:ff
NIN:embarrassed:ff
INT:5
FEI:100
FOR:100
SPR:embarrassed:FF
DPR:50
SHO:100
BRF:60

game settings
Controller: 7 (no idea if this matters)
Ffb Max torque: 5
Ffb sensitivity: 10 (lowest ingame damping setting. We want the detail!)

Lower FOR to 90 for less spikes if need be and increase INT to smoothen the notches out to your own taste.

Hope this helps
 
I made a quick DIY power switch while I wait for my e-stop & LED power switch parts to arrive.

Mounted to a 4040 corner bracket (and yes it’s off centre!)

it works well, so I’m confident the final version will be good (and only cost $20)
 

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ChewParker
Try this for GT Sport. Should give you a good base to work from. I tried to get as much detail as I could get from GT sport without the wheel getting too notchy and spiky.

FFB:22
LIN:embarrassed:ff
NDP:20
NFR:embarrassed:ff
NIN:embarrassed:ff
INT:5
FEI:100
FOR:100
SPR:embarrassed:FF
DPR:50
SHO:100
BRF:60

game settings
Controller: 7 (no idea if this matters)
Ffb Max torque: 5
Ffb sensitivity: 10 (lowest ingame damping setting. We want the detail!)

Lower FOR to 90 for less spikes if need be and increase INT to smoothen the notches out to your own taste.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...
I've recently upgraded from a CSL Elite, and am now running on your settings :)
I'm assuming that they are based on having the Torque Key inserted in the back?

Any updates or are you still running the above?

Many thanks
Nick
 
Carrera1963
I made a quick DIY power switch while I wait for my e-stop & LED power switch parts to arrive.
Mounted to a 4040 corner bracket (and yes it’s off centre!)
it works well, so I’m confident the final version will be good (and only cost $20)
Click to expand...
Really nice! A kill switch isn’t expensive, yet some marketing major decided there was money to be made. Is it common knowledge about which wires are used for the kill switch going into the DD?
Nick Parks
I've recently upgraded from a CSL Elite, and am now running on your settings :)
I'm assuming that they are based on having the Torque Key inserted in the back?
. . .
Many thanks
Nick
Click to expand...
I have used these settings also. I can attest that the torque key should be inserted. I have a larger diameter wheel (35cm), so I have the force feedback at 35 IPO 22. The main difference I found interesting about the set up is that the force feedback linearity is ‘off’. Of course, with the last software update this became default ‘on’. Setting it to ’0ff’ is a big difference to the set up that I was previously using with ffb linearity ‘on’. I definitely like it.
 
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Nick Parks
I've recently upgraded from a CSL Elite, and am now running on your settings :)
I'm assuming that they are based on having the Torque Key inserted in the back?

Any updates or are you still running the above?

Many thanks
Nick
Click to expand...
Yes, I use the torque key.
Increase or lower the FFB to your liking. It also varies car to car I've found.

Rob Brown
I have used these settings also. I can attest that the torque key should be inserted. I have a larger diameter wheel (35cm), so I have the force feedback at 35 IPO 22. The main difference I found interesting about the set up is that the force feedback linearity is ‘off’. Of course, with the last software update this became default ‘on’. Setting it to ’0ff’ is a big difference to the set up that I was previously using with ffb linearity ‘on’. I definitely like it
Click to expand...
I was driving with linearity on for a long time. It was OK. Never really thought anything was wrong with it. Then one time I noticed someone recommending having it off. As soon as I changed over I found I could feel the road more and the car just felt more real in my hands. I liked it.

I will say to everyone. Test out all the different parameters on the wheel one by one and get a feel for what each setting does. Go high and then low with each setting. You'll know straight away if you like or hate a feel a certain setting gives you. Everyone is different so you may end up with settings different from mine which is OK. As long as you are happy with what you feel. Happy driving.
 
Rob Brown
Really nice! A kill switch isn’t expensive, yet some marketing major decided there was money to be made. Is it common knowledge about which wires are used for the kill switch going into the DD?

I have used these settings also. I can attest that the torque key should be inserted. I have a larger diameter wheel (35cm), so I have the force feedback at 35 IPO 22. The main difference I found interesting about the set up is that the force feedback linearity is ‘off’. Of course, with the last software update this became default ‘on’. Setting it to ’0ff’ is a big difference to the set up that I was previously using with ffb linearity ‘on’. I definitely like it.
Click to expand...
thats one of the first things i did, when i started using my Podium like 2-3 month ago.
i read a lot of settings comments at the fanatec forums or other places... and a lot of users advice to turn linearity off, for a more detailed FFB expirience! ...and it makes sense!
i am racing in ACC and AC on PS5 only.
 
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PRO_TOO
i dont want to disassemble my F1 Podium wheel but maybe i'm better of that way. just taking the F1 rim off (the one with the blue grips) and install another rim to the Podium QR plus APM (d-shape GT or GT3). that would be much cheaper. but i'm not sure if i want to tinker with those valueable wheels and mix and match parts of it... hm!

but as i'm not a pro by now and dont switch wheels that often (never probably) maybe thats the way to go. the F1 Podioum would lay around for nothing if i'm satisfied with a good GT3 or GT Alcantara wheel. and thats a lot of euros laying around.

another option would be just selling the complete F1 Podium (its like new) for around 500 euro and take that money to get the Porsche 911 GT3 R (while spending 150 euro extra on that).

i'm really not sure and would appriciate some input and thoughts from you guys again! 😉
Click to expand...
(I thought a drag this over to this DD forum as the M4 wheel forum wasn’t exactly fitting). Much of how you describe your wheel situation fits with my experience. I have the F1 DD1 but do not use the F1 wheel much. I should sell it but just can’t pull the trigger. I have a 35cm GT wheel (aftermarket, something like $40) mated with the podium hub and ClubSport magnetic paddle module. This is my favorite set up that I run 95% of the time as I love street cars and some Gr4. (Believe it or not, I started with the advanced magnetic paddle module and then ‘downgraded’ to the clubsport! But the clubsport is better suited to bigger wheel/rims, so an upgrade in my eyes!) I also have a 38cm aftermarket classic wheel on Podium hub (no paddles as it’s for vintage cars). I don’t use it often as I should. I have a few other aftermarket wheels with which I’ve experimented but they lay around as they didn’t pass muster. Don’t be afraid to buy a Podium hub and paddle module and experiment with rims. I don’t get the fascination with the small diameter wheels that are typically pushed by the sim manufacturers. We have arm shredding Direct Drives and then pair them with these tiny wheels? Uh, not in my house. I have the Porsche GT3 from Fanatec, bought great condition off eBay, and never used the rim. Bad purchase because only ever used the Podium hub & PBME
@VFOURMAX1
 
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Fanatec driver 410
Noteworthy changes from my point of view:
Firmware Overall
  • While in BRF setting the LEDs now flash when 100% brake input is reached.
Podium DD
  • Renamed Tuning Menu setting LIN to FFS (Force Feedback Scaling). ON -> LIN and OFF -> Peak.
Button Module Endurance
  • Fixed 2-way toggle switches not working on PS4.
Known Issues
  • Podium wheel base jolts can happen on ITM or analysis screens of the base display. A workaround is to use the default screen with “Fanatec” logo while driving. We are working on a fix which involves an extensive re-write of the Podium DD firmware.
@Phlano099 @Bologna_Duc @Rednose58 @MikeGrove @Roman_GT23
 
Rob Brown
Fanatec driver 410
Noteworthy changes from my point of view:
Firmware Overall
  • While in BRF setting the LEDs now flash when 100% brake input is reached.
Podium DD
  • Renamed Tuning Menu setting LIN to FFS (Force Feedback Scaling). ON -> LIN and OFF -> Peak.
Button Module Endurance
  • Fixed 2-way toggle switches not working on PS4.
Known Issues
  • Podium wheel base jolts can happen on ITM or analysis screens of the base display. A workaround is to use the default screen with “Fanatec” logo while driving. We are working on a fix which involves an extensive re-write of the Podium DD firmware.
@Phlano099 @Bologna_Duc @Rednose58 @MikeGrove @Roman_GT23
Click to expand...
I went and looked at the page, the download link took me to a SharePoint site, thought that was strange.

I was able to download the new driver to my laptop. But after reading some of the feedback wasn't sure about trying it.
 
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My rim quick release or some mechanism in there clicks and makes noises as I drive and forcibly turn the wheel against feedback. Fanatec told me that it is not a defect so I just drive with it. The clicks are loud and can be felt.

I have taken my rim off the base only one time, but the clicks were happening before that, since last Autumn.
Rob Brown
Fanatec driver 410
Noteworthy changes from my point of view:
Firmware Overall
  • While in BRF setting the LEDs now flash when 100% brake input is reached.
Podium DD
  • Renamed Tuning Menu setting LIN to FFS (Force Feedback Scaling). ON -> LIN and OFF -> Peak.
Button Module Endurance
  • Fixed 2-way toggle switches not working on PS4.
Known Issues
  • Podium wheel base jolts can happen on ITM or analysis screens of the base display. A workaround is to use the default screen with “Fanatec” logo while driving. We are working on a fix which involves an extensive re-write of the Podium DD firmware.
@Phlano099 @Bologna_Duc @Rednose58 @MikeGrove @Roman_GT23
Click to expand...
 
Rob Brown
Fanatec driver 410
Noteworthy changes from my point of view:
Firmware Overall
  • While in BRF setting the LEDs now flash when 100% brake input is reached.
Podium DD
  • Renamed Tuning Menu setting LIN to FFS (Force Feedback Scaling). ON -> LIN and OFF -> Peak.
Button Module Endurance
  • Fixed 2-way toggle switches not working on PS4.
Known Issues
  • Podium wheel base jolts can happen on ITM or analysis screens of the base display. A workaround is to use the default screen with “Fanatec” logo while driving. We are working on a fix which involves an extensive re-write of the Podium DD firmware.
@Phlano099 @Bologna_Duc @Rednose58 @MikeGrove @Roman_GT23
Click to expand...
I installed the new driver and I can say it is very good...not crazy about the UI, but with the Fanalab you can still tune your pedals.
 
Received my aftermarket part for my DD1 yesterday from racesims.uk. It’s promoted as zero wobble and reduced distance between DD and steering wheel. So in addition to eliminating slop, it gets me 3cm closer to my TV for better FoV. Definite improvement!
98ECBF4A-8852-4E00-86C9-299BC0DBAE3D.jpeg
28EE96C7-A5AF-4CB8-8AA3-B734615E893C.jpeg
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B672AC3C-5440-4478-89A0-DADD81AC83E1.jpeg
EDIT: more pics of wear on original equipment. Once this started, it accelerated quickly
7C87757D-85F5-43ED-925D-9A99E4129E8A.jpeg
C3AA4B9F-067E-4385-A030-FB95E5ABBECE.jpeg
 
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JeffKill
Any reason they put these drivers up on the forums and not on the official site? On the site it's still showing 439 as the latest driver.
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I think Im using version 439, but with the latest Gran Turismo 7 update when the feedback changed, I changed my wheel settings.

In game I now run:
7, 10, 1
Wheel base I now run:
100% FFB
 
What a stupid way to release an official driver.

If you check out the Driver in the "Beta" forum link, quite a few Podium DD wheels are failing and leaving the wheel unusable, you may want to have a read first, or wait a bit.
 
DD2 updated to the latest version, no problems here for Formula V2 and PBME as well. Gonna test run this new firmware on AC later.
 
Goonie75
What a stupid way to release an official driver.

If you check out the Driver in the "Beta" forum link, quite a few Podium DD wheels are failing and leaving the wheel unusable, you may want to have a read first, or wait a bit.
Click to expand...
Well, it's 5 people out of currently 4500 who report an issue with updating.. That's 0,11%... So the Chance that something goes wrong is quite minimal. As others have pointed out a freezing update can have several issues like Anti Virus interfering or other USB devices interfering.. Could be a lot of things but for the majority of people the update goes smoothly without issues.
 

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