Fanatec Recommended Settings for GT Sport

  • Thread starter CJ1045
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The interaction between in-game settings and wheel settings is weird. I saw Z28 mention in a video that he found it much better to set the wheel to 100, and have 1/1 in-game. I tried this and it does indeed produce a completely different result to 10/10 in game and lowering it on the wheel. However, I actually prefer it with 10/10 in game and the wheel at 30, I don't like the really violent understeer effect you get with 1/1 and 100, and it feels like it could prematurely wear out the hardware to drive it like that all the time.

I'll give their settings a try, but will carefully write down all my current settings first, as I'm pretty happy with them overall.

I'm using Dri -01 rather than their suggested -03, as I found more drag just makes it slower to countersteer and harder to catch slides. Positive Dri was actually really nice for catching slides, but anything above -01 makes the wheel oscillate.
 
CJ1045
Fanatec has just released their suggested wheel and game settings for GT Sport for their systems and for most other major driving games:

https://www.fanatec.com/forum/categ...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet

Should make a least a chink of light at the end of the tunnel I am stumbling through

CJ
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I have suggested this a few years ago. I am glad they did this. People should see these as starting points and not set in stone. Tweaking for personal preference.
 
Well the GTS was OK but I tried Forza 7 and Horizon 4 and they both felt very weak with little feel. The settings are a little odd for those two though as some of the in game settings they suggest don't exist. Further they suggest setting the wheel to 1080 but the in game max is 900. Vibration of 1 seems odd too. I went back to my own previous settings for both these games.

CJ
 
Actually they recommend aut for gts.
Gts controls the degrees per car.
Dri-03 is diff from my I think zero
Ff I had at like 85-90
But my in game is like 3-10.
Curious to see if I lose detail at 1-5 but ff100.
They also comment that gts uses a dynamic physics model which means settings may not be optimum for all cars.
I lucked into the elite plus loadcell used and I really really like it
 
The baseline setting worked well for me.
Gr3 vette is a bit heavier than I was using, but I like it. 4 torque in game was good.
Popped a good time trial at Catalunya right away, and got a good time in the f1500 (for me) at Brands Hatch.

Thanks for posting that.
 
Most sincerilly, most of the recommended settings (for all the games) are true crap when aplied... mostly you ll feel like your driving a 2 tons truck... with the feed back on the wheel of a heavy weight speed racer... a mix of feelings that I would bet .. most dont want to get when driving a racing and simulation game...
 
Mirror_man
Most sincerilly, most of the recommended settings (for all the games) are true crap when aplied... mostly you ll feel like your driving a 2 tons truck... with the feed back on the wheel of a heavy weight speed racer... a mix of feelings that I would bet .. most dont want to get when driving a racing and simulation game...
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Maybe.
However strictly talking gr3 and the f1500, you get the detail and the understeer works PERFECT without monster rattle!
You can push the car and feel the understeer without it feeling like the wheel is exploding.
It just works right.
It’s just better than the 3-10 in game t300 I put tons of hours on, what I mean is that I know what GT Sport ffb is designed to do because t300 official wheel.
I find for racing these settings allow me to keep car settled better, be more precise and catch slides well.
That said to each their own.
Maybe turn in game to roque down a notch if you aren’t used to ffb or new to it.
That’s one reason I chose t300 for my first ffb wheel.
I wanted to experience what the game was designed to produce.
That said, the light rim with more diameter and pedals are just another class of peripheral.
No real comparison to stock t300 pedals.
More throw easier modulation etc.
I was skeptical, but wheel manufacturers know what they are talking about.
Jmo and obviously everyone’s desire is different re what they like to feel.
A nice light wheel is great, but with a bit more weight I’m just more in control.
 
Groundfish
Maybe.
However strictly talking gr3 and the f1500, you get the detail and the understeer works PERFECT without monster rattle!
You can push the car and feel the understeer without it feeling like the wheel is exploding.
It just works right.
It’s just better than the 3-10 in game t300 I put tons of hours on, what I mean is that I know what GT Sport ffb is designed to do because t300 official wheel.
I find for racing these settings allow me to keep car settled better, be more precise and catch slides well.
That said to each their own.
Maybe turn in game to roque down a notch if you aren’t used to ffb or new to it.
That’s one reason I chose t300 for my first ffb wheel.
I wanted to experience what the game was designed to produce.
That said, the light rim with more diameter and pedals are just another class of peripheral.
No real comparison to stock t300 pedals.
More throw easier modulation etc.
I was skeptical, but wheel manufacturers know what they are talking about.
Jmo and obviously everyone’s desire is different re what they like to feel.
A nice light wheel is great, but with a bit more weight I’m just more in control.
Click to expand...


The problem aint the rattle but the excessive torque and force that the wheel transmits to you (with these "recomended" values) interfering with your control ... it´s like the wheel owns you... and not what has to be... (you own the wheel and its you who controls ... not it!!!)

Like thos yu have majourly to focus on taiming the wheel.. and not on driving.. and I think that we prefer to drive then having a "rodeo" with our wheel...
 
Arsed my wheel settings up. This just gives me a massive deadzone and really heavy steering. Is there anyway of getting my wheel back to the out of the box settings?

I finally found the user manual and it tells you in there.
 
Last edited:
StuntmanRich
Arsed my wheel settings up. This just gives me a massive deadzone and really heavy steering. Is there anyway of getting my wheel back to the out of the box settings?

I finally found the user manual and it tells you in there.
Click to expand...

Rich.. . Honestly...I feel you must improve your English...so that we may understand what you pretend to say!
 
Catching slides has been the hardest part in adapting to the Elite CSL from a controller. So far i’m much faster with a controller. But i’ll keep trying.
 
Mirror_man
The problem aint the rattle but the excessive torque and force that the wheel transmits to you (with these "recomended" values) interfering with your control ... it´s like the wheel owns you... and not what has to be... (you own the wheel and its you who controls ... not it!!!)

Like thos yu have majourly to focus on taiming the wheel.. and not on driving.. and I think that we prefer to drive then having a "rodeo" with our wheel...
Click to expand...

The recommended settings work excellent, but I use dri off. I haven’t changed since I put them in. Ffb detail is simply fantastic.
I love this product!
Works fantastic in Dr and dr2 also.
For the tire wear, the feel this wheel gives is amazing, like cheating!
Huge advantage.
The edge of grip is so well defined by GTS ffb. It’s subtle though, it’s simply awesome to drive by feel like a real car and not try to use muscle memory anymore.
I can’t hype this enough. Resistance brake is fantastic also, so intuitive once you get the force you like and bushings you want for pedal resistance.
I could never switch back to pot brake.
For me the product is high quality and I reccomend it highly to anyone who loves driving games.
With the load cell in GTS you balance the car coming in with braking, and it works very very well.
Resistance brake has been awesome!
:)
 
I am using the softest rubbers in my Load cell brake. It requires quite a bit of travel to reach the braking limits. Would the medium rubbers lessen the travel, but keep the effort the same?
 
You know how to set 100 percent brake on the wheel itself right? BRF?
I use the stiff ones mostly, takes getting used to though.
The brakes personal taste yanno.
I was using BRF 60, but went back to 50, some people adjust based on car....I just leave it anymore.
 
Groundfish
You know how to set 100 percent brake on the wheel itself right? BRF?
I use the stiff ones mostly, takes getting used to though.
The brakes personal taste yanno.
I was using BRF 60, but went back to 50, some people adjust based on car....I just leave it anymore.
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Yeah, I had brake force down at first, thinking it would work in place of ABS, brakes were so bad I took it back apart thinking I pinched the wires, lol. Then I realized it was only that setting. I keep it at 100 or off now. My brake pedal travels about 3” to get to max brake. I'll try the medium tomorrow and see if that helps or not.
 
100 BRF is VERY VERY VERY stiff. lol I’m not sure I’d be strong enough to get 100 percent haha.
Good luck dialing things in!
 
Hmmm, i’m certain i’m doing something wrong then. This setting lights up the tach lights and shows you how much brake force you get from the pedal, turning it down lowered the lights on the tach?

Am I in the same setting, or remembering it wrong...*wheel rookie.
 
Yes
wedjim
Hmmm, i’m certain i’m doing something wrong then. This setting lights up the tach lights and shows you how much brake force you get from the pedal, turning it down lowered the lights on the tach?

Am I in the same setting, or remembering it wrong...*wheel rookie.
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Yes, the lights show you the amount of input you are giving into the game. Adjusting the BRF changes the fore required to get to 100 percent.
I’d say mine at fifty is very light compared to an actual race car.
You go to brf, joystick up and down changes the number. If you play with it you will see. When every led is lit you are at 100 percent. You can see lowering the number makes it easier to light all leds and raising it makes more force to get all leds.
You hit wrench again when you like the setting. For GTS you will want to be able to get to 100 percent if using abs or abs weak. ABS off is quite difficult in GTS, I reccomend default as a new wheel user.
 
Getting the wheel quite a bit better now. Able to equal most of my lap times, but also seems much more consistent.
It definitely feels like the cars handle differently when using a wheel also. Brakes work better, trail braking is much easier, slightly more steering and very fine movements show up more, unlike the controller.

What do you guys think, is the handling changed slightly based on control chosen, or does it just seem that way?
 
Are there any settings for the Fanatec Porsche GT 3 in combination with the DriveHub?
Or can I use just the settings of the newer wheels? Don't think so.
 

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