Finally got the wheel - and now I'm about to give up from GTS

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The only game's I'm driving cars with a controller are GTA and other arcade games :D When my DFGT broke I stopped playing GT6 and basically gaming entirely :boggled:
 
Thanks to every man/girl who left benevolent answer, and they are most of this thread...

I don't have PC to do massive post or multi quotes, so I'll try to answer by memory to most of things.

First, I think I did some ok opening post and most of you got it what I meant.

Yes, I took it on debt and now I'm in problems, but as Em says: "that was only opportunity that you got"!
Didn't took others and its my way, sadly, only way to have something, and for whole my life, I'm satisfied with gaming only.
And I'm getting only older, not younger...


Purpose of thread is looking for some tips, your experiences and little of protest to some great forces :)

Must be that I become good with DS4 and now I'm looking for myself here, while in pCars, that I almost didn't played with gamepad, I found myself right away - and as I explained, sim racers and wheels are not something new to me.


Looks like that expected too much - too soon!


On a technical side, maybe braking is main point, I know many are using left foot for it, but I just don't like it.
I have using it only once, for beating Vettel X1 Challenges.

There is a problem with with everything on wheels too, my chair, table where I mounted wheel and table where is everything else - sometimes if I push too hard, it simply rolls my chair back!

And finally (my eyes really tired with soo long J3 writing), settings!
Looking at threads, I found that 7/5/4 is some combination that are used by mostly, specially 7, is that so?

Again, thank you for support!
 
FFB Strength 3 and FFB Sensitivity 9. A very fast and experienced Sim Racer @Shottah072 explained it very well why it’s better to not use high Strenght Settings on Low end Wheels. I trusted his words and he convinced me. In a few Words, you simply loose to much FFB Detail information with too high FFB Strenght. Lower Strenght and higher Sensitivity is the way to go. Try it :)
 
I'd say my settings but I'm running a t300 so it's a bit different.

But I thought I'd bring this up since we're all on the topic. What's causing the issues with you guys adapting to the wheel?

I got mine at Christmas and thought my biggest problem was countersteering. Specifically reacting fast enough to catch slides. Felt like I was learning everything over again. But things like trail braking I learned quickly. (Go through lessons again for practice I suggest)

I can catch slides easy with controller but I've also grown a consistency issue. I may be at B/S rating but I never get top fives anymore, or competitive qualifying times. Even with controller I couldn't put together good laps or be able to push when needed.
I was about ready to quit too man.

But I pushed forward. And now I realized that I got to be willing to use aids even a steering assist until I've grown capable of countersteering. (Do you guys have any other tips) I also realized while with a controller I could save myself in most corners and make bad lines work. But I lost my ability to keep to the ideal line. So I'm focusing a lot on racing the fast line. And I'm getting improvement! I had my first clean bonus race racing mid pack a little while ago.

Sorry for the ramble but this has been on my mind the last while too. Hopefully it's some good food for thought.
 
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FFB Strength 3 and FFB Sensitivity 9. A very fast and experienced Sim Racer @Shottah072 explained it very well why it’s better to not use high Strenght Settings on Low end Wheels. I trusted his words and he convinced me. In a few Words, you simply loose to much FFB Detail information with too high FFB Strenght. Lower Strenght and higher Sensitivity is the way to go. Try it :)

How can you put sensitivity to 9, at me 7 is maximum?

If it matters, I have DS4 powered on bcs is my sound source with headphones connected.
 
FFB Strength 3 and FFB Sensitivity 9. A very fast and experienced Sim Racer @Shottah072 explained it very well why it’s better to not use high Strenght Settings on Low end Wheels. I trusted his words and he convinced me. In a few Words, you simply loose to much FFB Detail information with too high FFB Strenght. Lower Strenght and higher Sensitivity is the way to go. Try it :)
Thanks mate glad it helped :)

Yes to high FFB (torque) settings will make you lose detail and fidelity in the FFB. It is called FFB clipping. The wheels we use have a maximum of torque they can deliver. If we set FFB torque or strength to high in-game our wheels will reach their torque limit to fast and since there is no change of feel beyond the torque limit you lose out of allot of FFB information.

Most sims/games show graphs or bars that show if the wheel is clipping or not. GTS unfortunately does not so we have to go by feel and what we learned about our wheels from setting it up in other sims. Pretty hard to do or grasp for beginners or new wheel users though. Probably allot of people are running their settings way to high for the wheels they use.

Empty Box also touches on this important subject of simracing in one of his videos.

 
How can you put sensitivity to 9, at me 7 is maximum?

If it matters, I have DS4 powered on bcs is my sound source with headphones connected.
You have 3 Sliders in the Menu in the following sequence:
Controller Sensitivity
ForceFeedback Strenght
ForceFeedback Sensitivity
Set it to
1
3
9
From my experience the Controller Sensitivity is not important for me as a Wheel user as I absolutely don’t notice any changes in Steering Speed or Sensitivity if I turn this up or down.
The other two are crucial.
I have a T150 and for me it works like a charm with the above mentioned settings.
 
You have 3 Sliders in the Menu in the following sequence:
Controller Sensitivity
ForceFeedback Strenght
ForceFeedback Sensitivity
Set it to
1
3
9
From my experience the Controller Sensitivity is not important for me as a Wheel user as I absolutely don’t notice any changes in Steering Speed or Sensitivity if I turn this up or down.
The other two are crucial.
I have a T150 and for me it works like a charm with the above mentioned settings.
FFB Sensitivity is basically damping. Low sensitivity is high damping and vice versa. High damping or in GTS case low Sensitivity will smooth the wheel out at the cost of loosing detail of bumps and road surface etc. Low damping or in GTS case high sensitivity will bring out all the bumps in road surface etc and thus making the wheel feel more chunky/alive. There is a bit of personal preference involved but i will say the more detail the better. Keep damping as low as possible is my advice. In GTS case sensitivity high.
 
FFB Sensitivity is basically damping. Low sensitivity is high damping and vice versa. High damping or in GTS case low Sensitivity will smooth the wheel out at the cost of loosing detail of bumps and road surface etc. Low damping or in GTS case high sensitivity will bring out all the bumps in road surface etc and thus making the wheel feel more chunky/alive. There is a bit of personal preference involved but i will say the more detail the better. Keep damping as low as possible is my advice. In GTS case sensitivity high.
Thanks for the very well explanation. It always makes sense reading your statements, even for me. You explain it comprehensible, I like that.
So in my case I think I have set it up right. Not too much FFB to prevent the Wheel from Clipping and loosing details and High Sensitivity for max road detail which again through low FFB Strenght can be delivered perfectly, am I right?!
 
You have 3 Sliders in the Menu in the following sequence:
Controller Sensitivity
ForceFeedback Strenght
ForceFeedback Sensitivity
Set it to
1
3
9
From my experience the Controller Sensitivity is not important for me as a Wheel user as I absolutely don’t notice any changes in Steering Speed or Sensitivity if I turn this up or down.
The other two are crucial.
I have a T150 and for me it works like a charm with the above mentioned settings.

So I was thinking that this is opposite from beginning.

Already feels better with your settings, only missing a bit of ffb power, I want to know I have wheel in hands.

And yes, I can't make full brakes effect, there is a bung that I won't be able to get away, sadly.

But in PC2 it works 100%
 
Thanks for the very well explanation. It always makes sense reading your statements, even for me. You explain it comprehensible, I like that.
So in my case I think I have set it up right. Not too much FFB to prevent the Wheel from Clipping and loosing details and High Sensitivity for max road detail which again through low FFB Strenght can be delivered perfectly, am I right?!
Thanks ! I played many sims so i have had to setup FFB many times. Different games have sometimes different amounts or names for the settings and sliders but there are 3 basic settings that are most important.

Max. Force - This controls maximum power output and is used to set right amount of torque without clipping.

Min. Force - this controls the resistance of the wheel at low force. It is used to give the wheel a heavier or lighter feel without changing the max output. In GTS this is tied to Max. Force though.

Damping - This controls the amount and spikeness or smoothness of FFB detail. It dampens the FFB spikes.

And yes your settings look good, i run very simular settings. Torque 3-4 Sensitivity 7-10 on a T300. A little damping can be good to prevent it feel to spikey.
 
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I don't know where OP is coming from but surely wheel is faster than ds4. Thats a given.

You are not used to it thus you are slow. Keep playing and you will eventually surpaas ds4 times.
 
Well
FFB Sensitivity is basically damping. Low sensitivity is high damping and vice versa. High damping or in GTS case low Sensitivity will smooth the wheel out at the cost of loosing detail of bumps and road surface etc. Low damping or in GTS case high sensitivity will bring out all the bumps in road surface etc and thus making the wheel feel more chunky/alive. There is a bit of personal preference involved but i will say the more detail the better. Keep damping as low as possible is my advice. In GTS case sensitivity high.

What bumps in the road surface?
 
I have to be honest and say that I understand some of the OP's frustration with GTS and using a wheel.

In comparison to other titles its FFB is lacking in detail and the track surfaces communicate very, very little information. Tie that the the utterly wrong FFB rattle on understeer and its not going to be a quick or natural adaptation.
 
I have a g29 for about two months (never had a wheel before) and have been playing with joysticks my entire life, this makes me understand why Im still faster with the ds4, its sad, because when you invest so much you want results. But my mindset is : just trying harder now and trying to recognize my flaws with the wheel and pedals (already found a big one)
 
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There is a problem with with everything on wheels too, my chair, table where I mounted wheel and table where is everything else - sometimes if I push too hard, it simply rolls my chair back!

You could try a luggage strap around the legs of the table or the pedals and the base of the chair.
 
I'm rubbish with my wheel been using a wheel since gt5 days and I've never given up..even with all the aches and pains I even might start putting (I suck) in every stream I do

 
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You could try a luggage strap around the legs of the table or the pedals and the base of the chair.

I just put a towel under my chair and it worked pretty well, but now i have some plastic foam non slip thingy-ma-bob. Computer chairs aren't the best.
 
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