Ford MARK IV Race Car '69

[Harley45]

I thought I would have a go at this Tuning Lark .

Notes

I'm a Average Driver not quick by any means
In Fact I still use AUTOMATIC Gears , one day I might and take one hand off the Wheel and see what the Shift Knob does on my DFGT

So Please be Kind and this into Consideration when you Post in here and tell me How / Ok / Crap / Awfull this Tune is 👍

Ok on with the Show .

Mods Added

Soft Race Tyres
Stage 3 Turbo (I might try a Stage 2 at some point)

Aerodynamics front and Rear set to Max ( 35 FR - 60 Rear )
Transmission 217 Mph
Suspension
Ride Height -30 FR -25 Rear
Spring Rates 12-8 FR 10-5 Rear
Dampers Ex 7 FR 6 Rear
Dampers Comp 7 FR 6 Rear
Anti Roll Bars 6 FR 4 Rear
Wheel Alingment
Camber 1.8 FR 0.5 Rear (THANKS turbolefty78 for the Rear Camber Change suggestion)
Toe Angle -0.18 FR + 0.20 Rear
Brakes 4 FR 1 Rear

LSD (Still needs Tweaking a bit ?)
Intial Torque 10
Accleration 20
Braking 5

Track Used

Nordschleife 12.95 Miles
Lap Time (7 Attempts) 6:27.435 (5 Seconds Better was 6:32.253 after 3 Attempts , No LSD Setup and 3.5 Rear Camber Setup )

Tune is only i'd say 85% There . Which is where someone on here comes in . Taking into account my Basic Skills if someone else has this Car perhaps they would like to Try these Settings and let me know what they think . Or just make Suggestions if you can see Obvious Mistakes / Better Settings

Thanks 👍

 

[turbolefty78]

Whoa! -3.5 rear camber? That's an insane amount for non-steering wheels. Your tires won't be in full contact with the road surface for acceleration and is drastically overkill for turning purposes for the rears. Back it off to no greater than .5 or so.
And do mess with the LSD settings. They can tame even the most powerful beast and make it much faster entering and coming off corners. I had to toy with those on the F1 car for the FGT champ series. Easiest way of course is to go to the practice area. Try changing one setting only, and change it drastically, then change it fully the opposite way and test again to see what the difference is. In this way you will learn what each setting does to the performance of the car. No worries about mucking them up so badly they aren't recoverable, just use reset to default if that happens. Back to square one again.

 

[Harley45]

Whoa! -3.5 rear camber? That's an insane amount for non-steering wheels. Your tires won't be in full contact with the road surface for acceleration and is drastically overkill for turning purposes for the rears. Back it off to no greater than .5 or so.
And do mess with the LSD settings. They can tame even the most powerful beast and make it much faster entering and coming off corners. I had to toy with those on the F1 car for the FGT champ series. Easiest way of course is to go to the practice area. Try changing one setting only, and change it drastically, then change it fully the opposite way and test again to see what the difference is. In this way you will learn what each setting does to the performance of the car. No worries about mucking them up so badly they aren't recoverable, just use reset to default if that happens. Back to square one again.

Yes the Camber is a Bit Nuts I seem to get on with it like that , its similar to my 330 P4 Tune and suprisingly it does a Similar Lap Time almost to the Second .

But thanks for the Tip i'll try the Camber Suggestion 👍

 

[turbolefty78]

Now, if you were building that car for racing circle tracks only, like Daytona or Indy, then some more rear camber would be in order, but for the rights only. Usually different side to side on circle track cars. Road course cars should be same setting side to side, since there's left and right hand turns.
I also wish they would have included the other important alignment angle, caster. They add all of the others, and omit caster. It's one of the primary alignment angles so we should be able to adjust it as well.

 

[Harley45]

Now, if you were building that car for racing circle tracks only, like Daytona or Indy, then some more rear camber would be in order, but for the rights only. Usually different side to side on circle track cars. Road course cars should be same setting side to side, since there's left and right hand turns.
I also wish they would have included the other important alignment angle, caster. They add all of the others, and omit caster. It's one of the primary alignment angles so we should be able to adjust it as well.

Took a go with your 0.5 Camber for the Rear . Yay its way better on Kerbs , Oh I know i'm not supposed to go into them too much but the Car is less Wobbly

Anyhow mucked about with the LSD aswell so that's gonna be Updated aswell

Thanks for the Suggestion I just Knocked 5 seconds off me Lap

LSD I think still need some Work though

 

[turbolefty78]

Give this setting a try once for the LSD: 25, 45, 50

From all of my attempts at the FGT series, I know this to be a much more stable setup and will allow you to get off the corners fast with less spinning of the rears.
You now have the braking set to 5, which in my opinion is far far too low. You want to slow the car down fast, but not to lock up the tires as you do it, then back into the gas fast as well, which means again, no spinning.
Anyhow, give it a try and let me know what you think.

 

[Tiago1186]

That car Mark IV is a beast , savage sound , i just did 1:09,235 fastest lap on deep forest and the 2J started in first and the toyota in 3

Still own by 11 secs , that car soo nice .

Ive beat deep forest if the countach lp 400 '74 that was a hard one had to block pass the whole final straight

 

[Fe662]

Ive beat deep forest if the countach lp 400 '74 that was a hard one had to block pass the whole final straight

One day this happen with me in Cape Ring on Gran Turismo Championship.I hate Chapparral 2J!!!