GDII's SW20 MR2

[GDII]

Update.

So not fuel pump. Just too much oil in the cylinders preventing it from firing properly. Had to crank it for a long time with full throttle to get it going then a big cloud of blue smoke came out the exhaust. It's done the smoke cloud before but not the starting issue. Probably need new spark plugs too.

 

[GDII]

Update: Oil seals were replaced but not before finding a nice groove in the oil pump shaft. New pump rotor set installed, engine put back together and it runs again with no leaks.
I'll update soon with some photos of bits and pieces.

 

[GDII]

Update, no pictures ready yet but the alternator has stopped working for 7th time in 11 years. This is starting to get old.... But each failure has been a different thing.
I haven't confirmed what is causing this issue yet as I have not taken it out to test but I did buy a used one from an ST184 Celica with a 5SFE. @SVX was taking parts off it too. My car uses a small alternator so the Celica one works.
I'll see if it has parts I can use or I just straight swap it. Fun times.

 

[GDII]

It seems that even though my car has power steering it uses the small alternator with the small bracket.
Part number is:
12501-74010 for the 89-93 Manual G/G-Limited. It appears this is one of the small alternator brackets.
12501-74020 for the 89-93 Automatic G/G-Limited. It appears this is one of the large alternator brackets.
12501-74020 for the 89-93 GT/GT-S. You couldn't buy an automatic version however you can see they are the same part as the NA autos.

There are further part numbers but I can't confirm what size alternator they fit so I won't list them.


Pulled the alternator out last night. Being the small one it comes out the top.

Checked over the replacement one. Apart from a rather worn top slip ring it checked out OK so in it went. Charges so that's all I need for now.

Worn slip rings. Cleaned up the contact surface after this photo was taken.

Genuine Denso part so all good there.

My current alternator appears to have got dirty again and filled with oil and grime. This is what stopped it working the last time but I guess the oil leak got to it and gummed up the brushes and slip rings. Makes sense that this was the cause as it would charge a bit, enough to keep the 3 lights of death off but not enough to push the volt meter gauge up to normal position. I cleaned out all the parts, cleaned off the slip rings with sand paper and put it back together ready for the next round of alternator failure.

Unhappy looking diodes.

Very dirty slip rings.

Also adding to the alternator bracket sizing. I have the small OEM one on the car allowing smaller sized alternators. I have got a spare from a 1990 GT that will not fit this alternator. Confirming that the part numbers line up for the early cars. And working on Olafs 1990 Auto it also has the larger bracket. I do quite like that I can use Celica alternators as they are far more common. Not sure what AMP rating this one is, 60-70 maybe. Not even sure what my other one is.

 

[GDII]

Well that failed. It's either my battery hasn't got enough charge, as it didn't even click when I tried to start it or this replacement alternator is super stuffed. The tacho needle was flicking all over the place and the lights on the dash would barely show up. So I'll put my other one back in as it's far cleaner and apparently less worn. Time will tell. Spent the weekend painting doors so had to kick the MR2 out of the garage to do that work.

This looks a bit cleaner.

 

[GDII]

Thursday night was nice enough to swap out the Celica alternator for the one that has been in the car for 10 years. After a decent clean up and no more leaks from the engine this one should last a good while longer.
The car was stuck outside due to no battery power and the alternator throwing the tacho needle every which way it wanted. Swapped it out then started it up with help from the Demio and jumper leads. Voltmeter went straight to the correct position so a win right there!

 

[GDII]

I haven't driven the MR2 for almost 2 months. One short test drive after the oil pump and alternator issues arose. Then a trip to work after the CV joint on the daily (post to come) decided it didn't want to come off with a hammer and I broke the cage attempting that.

Then a few weeks back the MR2 Owners Club of New Zealand had their 25th Anniversary meet. A short 2 hour trip to Manfield Circuit Chris Amon to meet up with others from all around New Zealand. I didn't really take many photos as I was too busy chatting to everyone. But here are some of the car plus links to the rest of the photos of the rest of the cars and others that joined us for the track day.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/playday...&album_id=10157793042848926&ref=page_internal

https://www.facebook.com/pg/playday...&album_id=10157793059878926&ref=page_internal

https://www.facebook.com/pg/playdayontrack/photos/?ref=page_internal

I had a bit of fun on the slow laps as I wasn't taking part in the track sessions due to not having much tyre tread left on the rears.

70+ MR2 turned up which is an Australasian record for most amount of MR2 in once place at one time.

 

[GDII]

I have been doing a few things to the car lately but been far too busy to do write ups like I used to.

Things I have done lately are:
Put the Advan Racing wheels back on for the nationals.
Install the 3SGTE TRD muffler.
Swap in GEN2-5 front arms.
New steering rack boots as they were stuffed and non OEM. Must have my OEM parts.

I have also developed a dead battery although it is 10 years old now so had a really good run. Not using it every day and having some alternator issues must have pushed it over the edge.

I also took this short video of the muffler from a cold start. I might try get one in car and a drive by to see what it's really like.
Let me know what you think. Driving makes it sound..... questionable.

 

[SVX]

I also took this short video of the muffler from a cold start. I might try get one in car and a drive by to see what it's really like.
Let me know what you think. Driving makes it sound..... questionable.

Not even as loud as a Swift.

 

[GDII]

Not even as loud as a Swift.

Just wait for the loud pedal. Then it gets a bit more rowdy! But nothing on your Swift, which is hilarious seeing as yours is apparently OEM.

 

[GDII]

I did a thing....

 

[eiriksmil]

About time Go turbo!

 

[GDII]

About time Go turbo!

It's only been, 6 years. It will still be a few more years but little steps.

 

[JrDarknes]

I knew this day would come. I am very excited for you. Just curious on what made you decide to get the whole car instead of just the motorset?

I am pretty sure you already know all the ins & outs of this swap but I just want to make sure you don't plan on keeping that stock intercooler from the caldina. When I went to TCS Motorsports (a specific MR2 shop here in the states) for my friends duece. They showed the dyno graphs of a Mr2 with the stock top mount intercooler and one with the side mount & if I remember correctly it was a 30-40whp loss with the stock intercooler which honestly surprised me.

I would of thought since the engine lid had holes more air would go in that way. However the sidemount had a puller fan, I dont think you could fit one of those on a top mount.

Anyway I cant wait to see this swap, still wish I owned one of these

 

[GDII]

I knew this day would come. I am very excited for you. Just curious on what made you decide to get the whole car instead of just the motorset?

I am pretty sure you already know all the ins & outs of this swap but I just want to make sure you don't plan on keeping that stock intercooler from the caldina. When I went to TCS Motorsports (a specific MR2 shop here in the states) for my friends duece. They showed the dyno graphs of a Mr2 with the stock top mount intercooler and one with the side mount & if I remember correctly it was a 30-40whp loss with the stock intercooler which honestly surprised me.

I would of thought since the engine lid had holes more air would go in that way. However the sidemount had a puller fan, I dont think you could fit one of those on a top mount.

Anyway I cant wait to see this swap, still wish I owned one of these

Thanks! Buying a whole car gets me everything I need. A motor set has so many missing parts that it ends up costing you more than buying a whole car. Plus I wanted a few things from the car that a normal GEN4 swap doesn't have.

Yeah, I'm quite well clued up on the swap, done one already and in the middle of doing another one. The top mount will only be used for testing, the side mount and pipes are really expensive so I'll get there eventually. I know about all the MR2 shops over your way, it's good they exist to keep our cars going.

The engine lid may have holes in it (but also has a rain guard on it that 'closes' most of the holes) but think about how the air to air works in the Caldina, it has a sealed bonnet scoop so when the car is moving air is being forced into the top of the intercooler over the engine and out the bottom of the engine bay. An MR2 is backwards, air comes up from the bottom and sides of the engine bay, through the engine lid, forwards towards the rear window (turbo engine lids have the vents facing forwards!) and then circulates back over the lid and then leaves over the rear spoiler. So, in this way the air that would normally get forced through the top of the intercooler no longer has a way to really go through it so you would have to add a fan that pulls air off the hot engine to make it line up with the way the MR2 engine bay air circulation works. And as we all know, hot air does not make hot air cold again. So the top mount in an MR2 will just heat soak way too fast, hence why the side mount works. This brings cold air from outside the car in the natural way air is meant to enter the engine bay, cooling the air charge instead of heating it.

 

[GDII]

The Caldina was advertised as running rough and new spark plugs and coils would probably solve the issue. And true to what was advertised it does run rough. It starts fine, idles fine but as it warms up it starts to misfire and any amount of throttle would make it stumble then run OK. Looking at the spark plugs they were rather dirty and the engine has been running rich but what would you expect for a car that sat around for a few years then only got started to move the car so would never get hot enough to run at normal AFRs.

They are quite dirty and probably a bit old based on the rust stains.


So out with the old and in with the new. DENSO IK20 Iridium plugs.




Now the engine runs well. No stumble with throttle blips and up to temperature the misfire is gone. Now I can get ready to remove it for the next stage of the project.

 

[GDII]

A little more progress but not really any better results. I think the fuel system is clogged up from sitting for 4 years. It starts, it runs but it struggles to boost even with fresh fuel in it.

Today I drained the fuel from the tank, turns out there was only 5 litres in there anyway. Being an OBDII eCU, or what I think is OBDII, it could be JOBD but not sure, it doesn't have the typical FP and +B pins to jump the fuel pump to switch on to drain the tank, so I got creative. Armed with my JDM wiring diagram book I looked for where the fuel pump is powered and where I can get a non switched constant 12V power supply. As these cars don't prime the fuel pump when the key is switched to on, you can't just cycle the key over and over. Plus that would be really slow. So in behind the glovebox is the ECU as well as the power wire to the fuel pump. Almost in the same way the MR2 is wired, I jumped 12V from the 15amp EFI fuse through pin 1 of plug E on the ECU (BATT) to pin 3 on plug BF1. Then I disconnected the return fuel hose at the fuel tank under the car and ran it into my small fuel can. When the pump started to speed up and I could hear gurgling I stopped it and then put in 5 litres of fresh 98.





Took it for a drive bit still doesn't like to boost. It's most likely fuel related as the flow out of the return hose was pretty weak.

 

[GDII]

Earlier this week I started work on removing the engine from the Caldina.

Day 1. I know you can do it much much faster than this but as family commitments exist I can't spend a good amount of time doing the work. Plus, you come across some minor issues and taking my time and documenting it takes a bit longer.

Lifting the car up on stands at the front and blocks under the wheels at the back. This allowed me to get under the car to remove some parts and then when lifting the front of the car to pull the engine out the side, the car can rotate safely on the tyres rather than trying to pivot on axle stands. Sort of backwards to how I would do an MR2.

01 Caldina on stands

02 Caldina on stands
Attempting to remove the axle nuts proved impossible with the tools I had on hand. Having a 32mm deep socket and a breaker bar with an extension poll on the end of it still wouldn't undo them. So on to the next step.

03 Hub Nuts
Draining transfer case, gearbox and engine oils. The transfer case had some minor metal shavings on it but they look really old, not that I am using this part.

04 Transfer Case Bolt

05 Transfer Case Draining
Next is to remove the prop shaft.

06 Prop Shaft Removal 1

07 Prop Shaft Removal 2

08 Prop Shaft Removal 3

09 Prop Shaft Removal 4
Removing the brakes and hanging them out of the way. No point removing the brake hoses as I still need a foot brake for moving the car.

10 Brakes
On initial inspection I thought the engine was leaking oil, the owner told me it was leaking and being a 3S with 307,000km on it you'd just expect it to be leaking from at least the oil pump shaft seal. After I had removed the engine I found that the dirt and leak was not the engine but it was a previously exploded CV boot and a leaking powersteeing pump. Something I was not expecting.

11 CV Grease Powersteering Fluid not Engine Oil
Next is to unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust. On the Caldina it has a spring bolt and pivoting flange and gasket arrangement vs the MR2 and Celica that uses a 3 bolt fixed flange. If reusing the downpipe onto a Turbo B pipe you need to make some modifications.

12 Downpipe to Exhaust Flange
Draining the radiator. I managed to get it all into a bucket but then later in the day I tripped over the bucket and all of the coolant went all over the carpet tiles. You've got to laugh at yourself sometimes.

13 Radiator Drain Plug
The ST215 and ST205 uses an alternator cooling duct that comes up from the bumper unlike the MR2 that has nothing. Obviously the position of alternators on each car are different, this being closer to the exhaust manifold, it needs more cooling.

14 Alternator Cooling Duct

15 Alternator Cooling Duct
Disconnecting the auto transmission cooler lines from the radiator.

16 Gearbox Fluid Cooler Pipe
Out comes the radiator.

17 Radiator Out
Auto select lever.

18 Auto Select Lever
I decided to remove the alternator and brackets so I could remove the A/C compressor more easily as I did not want to open up the A/C gas lines.

19 Alternator Removed
Take off the airbox as this can't be used in the MR2 due to the suspension strut towers being in different positions.

20 Airbox Removed
In the turbo MR2 and Caldina there is a fuel pump resistor and a relay controlling the low and high speed of the fuel pump. Quite often this system tends to fail in the MR2 but because I am a little different I am going to reuse this system in my swap because I have the parts. If I have problems I know how to fix it. In the 2 GEN4 swaps I have wired up I have removed this system to reduce complexity but also because the wiring harnesses did not come with the resistor or relay plugged in. As it is part of the engine harness in the Caldina it can be easily used on the NA SW20s as they never had it. The Turbo SW20s have this system in the body harness so the wiring would be a little bit different if it was to be used.

21 Fuel Pump Resistor and Relay
I am also going to retain the stock Caldina EVAP system which consists of vacuum lines, a purge valve and the charcoal canister. Sure I don't need this system but I have everything and I still like the OEM setup for a lot of things. I'm not looking to reduce the amount of parts in the engine bay.

22 EVAP purge valve

23 EVAP Canister
Taking a look at the thermostat, the rubber on the internal seal had failed so there would have been a constant leak through it so heating the engine would have been a bit slower but not too bad. A new thermostat will be installed anyway.

24 Thermostat

25 Thermostat
Right at the end of the day I needed to remove 2 more bolts to drop the centre longitudinal subframe from the chassis. These 2 bolts took 15mins to remove due to rust and being inside the chassis rail I was not able to spray lubricant on the bolts before they passed through the captive nuts.

26 Front Subframe Bolts 15mins
As the car stood at the end of day 1.

27 End of Day 1
The car itself is very unmolested. 99% of the parts have never been touched. A few parts like suspension ball joints on one side were replaced with some odd nuts that would not undo. They would spin but not loosen or tighten. Never come across that ever before. It's a bit sad to see this car go but being deregistered the car really serves a better purpose donating parts to my car.

 

[GDII]

Day 2.

ECU removal.

28 ECU Before
Automatic Transmission part number 89661-21330. The manual transmission part number is 89661-21320

31 AT ECU
Removing all the ECU and wire/plugs for reference.

33 ECU Removed
You need the 2 body harness plugs otherwise you cannot power the ECU and a few other inputs and outputs are missing. You can see in foreground the out of focus plugs and the background in focus harness. This is where I cut the harness to get as much length in the wires for these plugs as possible.

32 Extra ECU Wiring
This is what I extracted from the car. Most I won't use but I like to have these for reference later.

34 Extra ECU Wiring
Dropping the struts out to get the subframe out. I did end up unbolting them fully before I moved the engine out of under the car. Unlike the MR2, the brake hoses are bolted to the strut instead of threaded through a welded on metal bracket.

29 Strut Removal
Dropping out the subframe is quite an exercise vs an MR2.
1. Unbolt the steering column near the firewall behind the engine.
2. Unbolt the triangle braces on each side on the rear bolts. These also have the long rear bolts as part of the the 3.
3. Unbolt the front subframe bolts. I had already undone the longitudinal subframe front bolts yesterday...

4. The powersteeing lines also need to be disconnected. The low pressure return hose isn't too bad to get to behind the intake manifold. Unclip the clamp and as the subframe comes down it pulls off as does the steering column connection. Well it would if I didn't have to drop the engine at the same time due to the axles being stuck in the hubs. Sure I could have pulled more suspension off, but I didn't. The high pressure line needs the pressure sensor removed, which also acts as the banjo bolt. 24mm spanner, that's my biggest spanner. Then it comes off no problem.
5. Fuel lines off filter and return line.
6. Main engine harness to be pulled through the fire wall.

30 Subframe lowering

36 Pulling Wiring Harness Through Firewall

37 Pulling Wiring Harness Through Firewall

38 Pulling Wiring Harness Through Firewall
Before I could fully drop it out I had to cut the exhaust as the 14mm bolts were no longer 14mm, more like 13.5mm from the rust they experience.

39 Exhaust Flange

40 Exhaust Flange Cutting

41 Exhaust Flange Cut
As the GEN4 3SGTE doesn't have a front engine hook I used a spare hook from my old GEN2 3SGE and bolted it to the head.

35 Extra GEN2 engine hook
Hooked up the engine hoist to this hook and the standard hook on the rear that also acts as the boost control solenoid mounting bracket.

42 Engine Ready to Drop
Lowered it all down onto my pallet with wheels. I had to add some extra blocks on top to make the subframe clear the engine hoist legs.

43 Engine and Subframe on Pallet
This is something that is quite different to the MR2, a liquid filled engine mount on the front of the engine.

44 Liquid Engine Mount
And the engine is down and fully disconnected. I did forget to remove the gear shift cable off the longitudinal subframe so this got a little caught on the way down so I just cut it.

There is some off bracket system holding it to the subframe that I haven't even bothered to look at how I was to remove it properly.

45 Engine Down
Lifting the car is a different exercise than how I do it with an SW20. The SW20 has welded mounts on the chassis that the main bolts fix to as the pass through the rubber mounts on the left and right. On the Caldina, there is nothing! I would normally strap a chain or strop to the main bolts and lift the back of the MR2 from the side and pull the engine out the other side but as the Caldina is very different, the front bumper cover has to come off. Not too difficult as it's only really held to the car with 4 10mm bolts and a few others holding the plastic undertray and well well liners to it.
Wrap a few chains around the bumper bar and lift the car up. The rear wheels are still on and raised so as you lift the car it safely rotates on them rather than pivoting on some small metal axle stands.

46 Lifting Car

47 Getting Some Height

48 Almost Up
Having carpet on the floor is not for some things, but spilling coolant on them was a fail as is the design of my pallet with wheels. It's so low that the weight of the engine compressed the carpet enough to bottom out the pallet. This required a lot more force to pull the pallet out of under the car, but I got there eventually.

49 Engine Out

50 Empty Engine Bay
The engine has 307,000km on it, the cam belt we definitely changed at 103,000km in Japan prior to importing it here, but there is no evidence of it being done since. I notices some odd wear marks on some of the belt but the top surface and teeth are all intact and good condition. Either way, it's all getting replaced, just curious to note.

51 Interesting Cam Belt Damage
Next step was to remove the driveshafts from the gearbox and transfer case. Lefts side, easy, just pull on it and it pops out, right side, easy for the first part, pull on it, it pops out, but it's so damn long!!! Getting it fully out was a bit harder with everything still attached to the subframe and the ball joint refusing to come off.

52 Removing Driveshaft
Eventually it all came out but no prior to having to unbolt the swaybar and steering rack to release the transfer case prop shaft snout!

53 Removing Driveshaft Long
Prior to putting the subframe back in so I could roll the car out of the garage, I had the wife take an obligatory person in the engine bay photo. This Caldina is now baby powered. Welcome to this crazy world, Elliott! He was born during Level 4 COVID-19 Lockdown. Special little guy!

55 Baby Powered Caldina
Putting the subframe back in was quite difficult, but having the engine hoist, a load leveller from Pierre and a hammer worked.

54 Putting Subframe and steering back in
End of Day 2. More to come.

 

[GDII]

Put the subframe back in. Using the engine hoist, axle stands and a scissor jack. Getting the steering shaft back on was a bit harder than expected but it went back in.

56 Subframe and Steering back in
Axles refuse to come out of the hubs so, tie them up with some thick wire.

57 Tying up Axles

58 Tying up Axles
And back on the ground.

59 Back on the Ground
End of day 3. Not much done but getting there.

Day 4/5
The Caldina GTT has a dual tip muffler which has a butterfly valve in the right hand tip. It is controlled by a motor in the right hand rear panel and connected with a calbe. The ECU has a positive and negative output leading me to suspect it's a stepper motor however I don't know what the ECU parameters are to activate the valve. Or if it opens fully every time or not. I hear it is used for sound control but also exhaust back pressure and possibly opens at 3000rpm with a large amount of throttle position but I can't confirm any of it with hard facts. The ECU pinout is BPC+ and BPC- so if I look at that it says Back Pressure Control. That's an interesting concept but then I don't understand ECU tuning that well or turbos to know why Toyota added in a back pressure device to this car. I will be doing some testing around the operation of this system just because I am curious to know but I could also use the ECU output for something like intercooler water spray or something similar. Yes I could get external controllers to do this but why not.

60 Exhaust Back Pressure Valve Cable
The transfer case has some rather impressive brackets but then the connection to the gearbox is solid so I guess the other side needs the same strong connection.

61 Transfer Case Brackets
Removing the torque converter requires the rubber plug to be removed and then you can access the bolts through the upper aluminium sump.

62 Torque Converter bolt access hole
The hidden bolt in the side of the block holding the engine to the gearbox.

63 Transfer case hidden bolt
Got this thing out after trying to hit it with a timber block then realising that I hadn't undone all nuts. 1 was hiding behind the engine mount. 8 nuts and bolts hold it to the gearbox.

64 Transfer Case Out

65 Gearbox Split.
Gearbox split but not after missing the bolt holding the starter motor cover plate to the gearbox... I put that down to not having it done it before but you laugh at yourself when you miss things. To be honest I missed a bolt on all 3 parts. One to get the engine to start splitting from the gearbox, one for the transfer case and the last one for the sandwich plate.

Getting the flex plate off

66 Flexplate Removal
The rear main seal is leaking on this engine but I'd say it's got 307,000km on it so it's not too bad for that much use and 23 years.

67 Rear Main Seal Leaking

 

[GDII]

While looking over the Caldina I saw the door courtesy light switches, which are nicer in feel than my ones on the MR2. I wanted to see if the Caldina ones were able to be used on the MR2 but they aren't, they just won't fit and only have a single wire connection on them. The MR2 has 2 wires, but I'm not sure exactly what one wire is for as the body of the switch must be grounded with the fixing bolt to make it work.

The reason I wanted to see if I could swap them is because my switches don't work too well so my interior lights don't always switch on when they should.

This is the switch with the rubber cover on it. I thought the rubber cover might be causing issues of the position of the switch as you open the door. Turns out, no, it's not the cause.

01 Switch Rubber Boot
To get it out you need to pop off the interior panel behind the doors and disconnect the 2 pin switch.

02 Interior Panel and wiring plug
Then unbolt the switch, 10mm.

03 10mm bolt removal
As you can see the switch is rather dirty, this doesn't actually cause the problem.

04 Dirty door switch

05 Dirty door switch rear
The wires are connected with a cable tie and some retainer clips. Cut the cable tie off and pull back the retainer clips to release each copper contact. I suspect one wire is for one circuit and the other wire is for another as each grounds through the switch body and the 10mm mounting bolt. Red is for for the lights and I think black is for the headlight reminder warning buzzer. My wiring diagram says Red w/White and Red w/Yellow, not quite a match.

06 Cutting cable tie

07 Pull back retaining clips
The contacts are rather dirty. The section at the end of the contact is where the internal part of the switch makes the join when the door opens and the switch is at full extension. The 2 thin parts are just there to hold this end piece and connect it to the wire.

08 Dirty contacts

09 Dirty contact end
So you need to clean the end of the contact rather than just the sides.

10 clean contact end

11 Clean contacts
Putting on a new white cable tie

12 New cable tie
Cleaning up the mounting surface of the switch

13 Clean mounting area
Finished, back to how it started, making sure to put the rubber boot back on and behind the switch mounting face so it stay in place.

14 Finished install

And yes, the fix does work.

 

[GDII]

After getting everything out of the car, it's now time to slowly strip parts of the engine off and get it onto an engine stand. Thanks to Olaf/Clanfever for letting me semi permanently borrowing his one.

Once the gearbox is off I needed to undo the crank pulley bolt. And of course in my haste I took off the flex plate, then had to put it back on, but only did up 4 of the 8 bolts so not a major. To lock the crank I used a bolt into one of the engine block to gearbox mounting holes and jammed a crowbar into the teeth on the flex plate. Then jump on the crank bolt with the breaker bar. No power tools here on this build.

05 Flex Plate

06 Flex Plate Locking

11 Crank Pulley Bolt
Once that was loose I took off the flex plate and mounted the engine stand bracket to the engine with some nice new 80mm long M12x1.25mm grade 8.8 bolts. These are not that easy to get from normal retailers, you need to go to a proper fasteners shop for them. Thanks to tulsamclaine for supplying these bolts at short notice. They will be in use for quite a while so borrowing these bolts from others was sort of out of the question. I did get offers from at least 3 people in the club to let me use theirs but they were a bit out of town. You guys are awesome BTW!

07 80mm M12x1.25 Bolts

08 Grade 8.8 Bolts
Put the bracket on the engine, lift the engine up and put the stand on the bracket rather than trying to put the engine on the stand. The engine will hold the bracket and stand no problem.

09 Engine Stand Bracket

10 Engine Stand
Then you can get a basic harmonic balancer removal tool and pull of the pulley. These normally come with the wrong bolts for Toyota and I have never had the right bolts that threaded in properly as they were always too short. I managed to find 2 matching bolts from the Caldina that are long enough and have the correct thread pitch so getting this one off was a breeze!

01 Harmonic Balancer

02 Harmonic Balancer
And the mighty CT15b that makes this swap all worth it! Yes it's dirty but 307,000km will do that with the way the engine has oil circulation through the intake from the valve cover.

04 The Turbo CT15b
Starting to remove other parts from the engine. This 'mess' is on the right rear of the engine block. Many hoses but they all have a purpose and most will remain for my build.

03 Hoses Everywhere
1. The large hose in the top right is for the BOV off the intercooler pre throttle body.

2. The smaller hose overlapping it is the breather from the valve cover that normally goes into the intake pipe after the airbox

3. The much smaller one connected to the steel pipe is for the BOV itself to actuate it. This connects to the intake manifold post throttle body.

4. The medium sized hose connecting to the metal pipe is for the idle air control valve and the boost controller vents into this pipe too.

5. The plastic tube running from top to bottom is for the EVAP system from the cable on the charcoal canister. When the intake manifold sees vacuum it opens the valve and purges the canister of fuel vapour burning it inside the engine. An emissions item that I will be retaining. I'll bring the whole system across to the MR2. I'm not looking to reduce clutter for this build, rather retain OEM parts and look where I can.

6. The two bumpy hoses with a rubber wrap on them are for the coolant hoses to the throttle body. This is to heat the idle valve and throttle body to prevent icing of the throttle plate keeping it open and making the car unstoppable. Obviously as air moves faster it can cool down and leave water on the metal parts freezing in some climates. Something I'll retain, mostly for OEM setup rather than taking off parts Toyota put in for a reason.

7. The hoses with the clips and banjo fitting are the fuel hoses. Banjo fitting is the flow from the filter and the other is return. As the Caldina is front engine the filter and return pipes are on the firewall so to fit into an MR2 you need to get creative and buy/make your own hoses.

 

[GDII]

This is the rear of the block behind the gearbox. Silver frost plug, you'll note further on the side of the engine has black paint flaking off the plugs. Not sure if the block was painted at some point after the factory. I'll do more investigation.

12 Rear of Block
Leaking rear main seal. I'll be replacing this seal anyway.

14 Leaky Rear Main Seal

 

[GDII]

Removing the oil feed pipe for the turbo off the block. It's 19mm for the GEN4 but the GEN2 seems to be 24mm.

13 Turbo oil Feed CT15b
I used the 19mm with a 23mm hooked on the end to give me more leverage. It came off very easily, not having too much trouble with nuts and bolts on this car luckily.

15 19mm Spanner

16 19mm Spanner

 

[GDII]

As we have all come to know the 3S engine, they leak oil, it's just a trait of them, they are old, they leak. And the leak is normally from the oil pump shaft seal. This is what it looks like here and the old owner said it was leaking too. On further investigation it wasn't the oil pump at all but a leaking power steering pump and CV grease is the cause of the leak. I'll be replacing the seals on the oil pump anyway but curious to see it's not the source of the leak for a high milage engine. Some signs say this has actually been looked after, just no records of it.

This is one of the power steering pump brackets.

18 Powersteering Bracket

17 Powersteering pump oil

 

[GDII]

This is the front left of the block. A little bit oily. Possibly from the oil cooler o ring leaking. I won't know until I take it off.

24 Front Left lower Block

25 HFH and oil cooler

26 Oil filter Pump Pressure Spring Turbo Oil Drain to Sump

27 Crank Angle Sensor Lower Oil Pump

 

[GDII]

This is the factory BOV. It's similar to what the MR2 GT/GT-S or Turbo had but it's bolted to the airbox.

The big hose is the vent from after the intercooler cold side ore throttle body.

The large vacuum hose is connected to the intake manifold post throttle body through a metal pipe and additional vacuum hose. This then Ts off to the top of the BOV.

When boost pressure is applied, it forces the top of the diaphragm to close the valve. No matter how much boost you run through this type valve, if it's in good working condition it will not leak.

The smaller vacuum hose with the black, white and purple valve in it connects to the bottom of the diaphragm. This assists in balancing the pressure on top and bottom of the diaphragm. What holds it shut is the spring. If you have boost equal pressure on top and on the bottom of the diaphragm the only thing overriding it is the spring pressure. The white valve in this line is a 1 way restrictor valve. As shown in the last image from the BGB, this is how it work. It allows boost pressure to easily get to the bottom of the diaphragm but not let it out as fast as the top. This means there is higher pressure in the bottom than the top forcing it open.

19 BOV Top

20 BOV Bottom

21 BOV Restrictor Valve Side A

22 BOV Restrictor Valve Side B

23 BOV Restrictor Valve BGB

 

[GDII]

The ST215 top mount intercooler. This air to air unit it fairly large. An aluminium cover with plastic end tanks. I don't know too much about this intercooler but what I do know is that it's completely useless on the MR2 due to the way the Caldina is designed.

The Caldina being a front engine car has a bonnet scoop. This scoop, when the car is moving forces air through the top of the core and over the engine unlike an MR2 that has air coming up from underneath and the side intakes then out the engine lid and forwards toward the rear window then out over the boot/trunk lid. If you think about it, the MR2 has no way to force cooler air though the intercooler like the Caldina does so you are better off with a 'smaller' side mount.

Photo 5 and 6 show the mounting points to the head. Obviously the turbo and throttle body are mounting points too with the hoses.

Photo 7 and 8 show the core looking through the inlet and outlet respectively. It's not too caked in oil on the in side and the out side is clean.

28 ST215 Air to Air Intercooler

29 Intake Manifold

30 Turbo to Intercooler Hose

31 Intercooler to Throttle Body Hose

32 Intercooler Mounting Point Front

32 Intercooler Mounting Point Rear

33 Intercooler In Side

33 Intercooler Out Side