General Model Kit Building Thread

Does anyone have advice for applying dashboard decals? I am building a Lancia Stratos by Hasegawa, and would hate to mess it up.
 
Best and only real form of advice I have had with decals is if they're too big to handle, cut them in an inconspicuous place

I moved from New Zealand to the UK 2 and a half years ago. Finally, after a much too lengthy sabbatical I have a new project to apply my energy and time to. It is the Revel 2010 Selby Mustang GT500 1/12 scale

The revel kit is not exactly the best made kit out there, but I got it cheap and already have a plan of attack. I am going to turn it into the Ford Shelby Mustang from the movie Need For Speed. I will be enhancing this kit in every way. Even going as far as to opening the doors on this beast. Progress pics will be regularly uploaded.

For those still wondering I have still not completed the 1/12 Nissan Skyline GTR R32 that I used to post about here. So far it has taken me 8 years. Currently it is still in New Zealand waiting to land here. So no progress for quite some time now
 
vettefreak95
Does anyone have advice for applying dashboard decals? I am building a Lancia Stratos by Hasegawa, and would hate to mess it up.
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I assume you're talking about the circular gauge ones, but either way, my method is the same for almost every car:

First, I always measure the decal and the respective spot with a digital caliper to ensure it's going to be a perfect fit. If the decal is too big, I'm already prepared and have had time to figure out the best way to position them so they look the best when all are placed.

Then I trim them with a new scalpel blade so all excess is gone and just the very print is used. I then use Micro-Sol and Micro-set on them the usual way.

Lastly, I use Micro Kristal Klear to simulate the glass/plastic over the gauge. Either a single drop on individual gauges or a generous amount if it's a "normal" one.

Whichever way you do it, think and plan ahead, have everything you'll need ready and take your time, as everything in scale modeling. If you rush it, it'll never come out right.

I also like to use MKK on foglights and such, as I like the look of them better with it, makes them more "transparent" and with more depth.

Hope this helps somewhat.
 
Beerz
Then I trim them with a new scalpel blade so all excess is gone and just the very print is used. I then use Micro-Sol and Micro-set on them the usual way.
Click to expand...

This helps hugely with all decals. Micro-Sol (by Microscale industries) is also what I use, but there are a lot of similar products out there by Vallejo, Humbrol, Revell...
I would definitely recommend getting something like it.
 
Hi Guys, Just to show you one of my latest finished projects, It took me about 2 years to finish it, yes two years, a lot of time but finally its done. I bought it on a flea market; one guy was selling a lot of his model cars just because he doesn’t have enough time to finish them.


Hasegawa Mazda Cosmo Sport 1/24

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I took it to a model contest but I didn’t won anything but I was happy just to saw the car finished.

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Saludos,
 
AHMEDFINK
Hi Guys, Just to show you one of my latest finished projects, It took me about 2 years to finish it, yes two years, a lot of time but finally its done. I bought it on a flea market; one guy was selling a lot of his model cars just because he doesn’t have enough time to finish them.

Hasegawa Mazda Cosmo Sport 1/24

Saludos,
Click to expand...

Dude! Welcome back!

Also, I've seen this thing in the plastic. Looks awesomer than in these pics. True story.
 
Does anyone have experience with buying separate parts?

I was thinking about a project that involves hacking off the rear of a '71 Dodge Charger, and fitting a giant engine (with blower) in the front. I could just buy enough kits to do it, but in the end there will be a lot of scrap parts and it doesn't seem financially sound.

I was wondering if anyone by chance know of online stores that have what I may be looking for?
 
Hello everybody,
Do any of you have experience using Tamiya's metal transfers? If so, do you have any techniques that ensure the metal transfer letters can be completely placed and sticked firmly onto the surface? I'm asking this, because I just spent 1 hour trying to get the letter 'I' off the transparent film and getting the letters 'ASTON MARTIN' perfectly aligned on my DBS's engine cover. And what's worse, there's still one more waiting for me to deal with. :ill:
 
Got this '90s Monte Carlo NASCAR car for $6. Its already mostly put together minus the decals and a few parts. I'll have more done tomorrow, but my plan involves making it look like a local short track car. It goes right along with how short tracks are typically starting points for many drivers and I myself am looking at getting into racing in some capacity.

20151120_203908.jpg
 
Getting back into models as of late. Decided the best way would be to finish my father and son project that's been ongoing since '09:

PHPEOKw.jpg

zjrspL4.jpg

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Underseal texture was created with a Tamiya diorama sand texture, and then spray painted over.
 
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Wondering if I should start working on my MP4/4, while I'm still working on my DBS, as the work on the DBS will take forever.

Also in case some of you are thinking that there is no progress made on the DBS, yes, there is some, albeit little. Here's a picture showing the half-assembled engine bay, which is not cemented together. Mind you though, it still needs to be worked on.



(Excuse me for the photo being taken with a smartphone.)
​
Lastly, a few questions: What is the purpose of primer? Is it necessary to spray a layer of primer before spray-painting it with the actual body colour? What are the disadvantages of not spray-painting one?
 
GT HP Nut
​

Lastly, a few questions: What is the purpose of primer? Is it necessary to spray a layer of primer before spray-painting it with the actual body colour? What are the disadvantages of not spray-painting one?
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Primer has several uses.
It can be a layer between plastic and paint when using real car paints, as these can melt the plastic.
If the model parts were not washed before use primer helps with not having the mold release agent re-acting with any paint.
It can help identify, especially a grey primer, any imperfections, i.e. sink marks, mold release lines or marks in the body work, and with car models this is very useful for getting a good finish - unless you're doing a dirty rally car forget the above :lol:
 
OK, thanks for the reply.

Anyway, here is another question, slightly urgent this time: have any of you guys ever tried to remove enamel paints from a surface painted with Tamiya's lacquer paints, particularly the TS-17? If so, what are the results?
I heard people saying that lacquer paint is 'more adhesive' than enamel paint, so I just tried removing a spot of enamel paint left by my finger from a surface spray-painted with TS-17. Although it did dissolve the spot, it also dissolved the layers of lacquer paint underneath, leaving bare plastic to be seen. Yes, I believe this problem can be solved by applying another few layers of TS-17, but I want to understand if it's normal, and prevent myself from repeating the mistake.
 
GT HP Nut
OK, thanks for the reply.

Anyway, here is another question, slightly urgent this time: have any of you guys ever tried to remove enamel paints from a surface painted with Tamiya's lacquer paints, particularly the TS-17? If so, what are the results?
I heard people saying that lacquer paint is 'more adhesive' than enamel paint, so I just tried removing a spot of enamel paint left by my finger from a surface spray-painted with TS-17. Although it did dissolve the spot, it also dissolved the layers of lacquer paint underneath, leaving bare plastic to be seen. Yes, I believe this problem can be solved by applying another few layers of TS-17, but I want to understand if it's normal, and prevent myself from repeating the mistake.
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That's normal. Most enamel thinners will melt all kinds of paint.
Next time you need to remove a spot from something you've already painted you should try to sand/polish it off. Or perhaps you can even carefully scrape it off using a hobby knife if there isn't too much paint.
 
Thanks for the reply.
Now, another problem emerged from the process: As I started working on my MP4/4, I spray-painted it with pure white. But afterwards, the surface becomes rough, and some of the parts even have dimples on them. It looks something like this. Is this effect the so-called 'orange-peeling'? Is it possible that I'm spray-painting a bit too far away from the model kit, and what can I do to fix the surface? Do different colours of lacquer paints have different appropriate spray-painting distances?
 
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GT HP Nut
Thanks for the reply.
Now, another problem emerged from the process: As I started working on my MP4/4, I spray-painted it with pure white. But afterwards, the surface becomes rough, and some of the parts even have dimples on them. It looks something like this. Is this effect the so-called 'orange-peeling'? Is it possible that I'm spray-painting a bit too far away from the model kit, and what can I do to fix the surface? Do different colours of lacquer paints have different appropriate spray-painting distances?
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Yup, that is the so called orange peel effect.
There are several reasons for this, distance shouldn't be a problem unless you're really close.
When you say spray painting do you mean from spray cans or spray gun ?
Moisture in the air, paint not mixed well, paint having adverse affect with the plastic can all be a cause.
You're best bet is to take fine sanding sticks or similar and gently rub to a smooth or as smooth as you can, wash the parts and re-apply a light coat or even a primer layer again.
When spraying it's always best to apply a light coat and gradually build up the layers, have a thick enough layer to be able to lightly sand smooth so to apply a lacquar, take your time you'll get there.
 
SJC ALPHA
distance shouldn't be a problem unless you're really close.
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I don't know. I read Tamiya USA's page on using its lacquers, and it says that spray-painting too far away can cause orange peel.
SJC ALPHA
When you say spray painting do you mean from spray cans or spray gun ?
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I use Tamiya's spray cans.
SJC ALPHA
Moisture in the air, paint not mixed well, paint having adverse affect with the plastic can all be a cause.
Click to expand...
I don't think any of these will cause an issue. Yesterday's humidity was rather low. I shaked the spray can for at least half a minute before spray-painting, and I reshaked frequently before spraying other parts. And I washed the body cowl with normal soap and warm water before spray-painting. I did use a spray can that's not been used for at least 5 years though.
SJC ALPHA
You're best bet is to take fine sanding sticks or similar and gently rub to a smooth or as smooth as you can, wash the parts and re-apply a light coat or even a primer layer again.
When spraying it's always best to apply a light coat and gradually build up the layers, have a thick enough layer to be able to lightly sand smooth so to apply a lacquar, take your time you'll get there.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by light coat? Do you mean spraying very thin layers of paints?
 
GT HP Nut
I don't know. I read Tamiya USA's page on using its lacquers, and it says that spray-painting too far away can cause orange peel.
Click to expand...
I suppose it comes down to what is too far away, 12ins or 30cms is about right. Too near and the paint hasn't had a chance to become a spray before contact, too far and the paint spreads too much this causing some particles to dry and therefore become solid, (though very small), and give rough finish.
Tamiya's spray cans are very good, but keep in mind you do not know how long the can has been sitting idol. Always when using for the first time shake for at least 2 minutes, this goes for real car paints as well if you want to use those.
When washing the plastic parts before use, use a weak solution, you only want to remove the release agent and not apply a new one. I actually use a tooth brush to scrub the parts, if you do this be gental so as not to brake or remove parts, then dry with paper towels.
With car models you can construct some parts like, bumpers to body shell, to get a uniform finish. This can mean you put oils from your hands onto the plastic, unless you wear latex gloves. So if you don't wear gloves give the model another wash, the more time you spend here the better the finish.
I mentioned moisture in the air as I saw the Hong Kong beneath your avatar, water in the air gets attached to paint particles but not all, thus making a horrible finish.
When applying paint, a light coat is one pass over the part or parts to be painted and left to dry, do another and gradually build up until a uniform coat is attained. At each stage you can check for imperfections. And shake can before each use. So yes these are as you say thin layers of paint.
It is also recommended to start the spray before aiming at the plastic. and stop after you have gone past. I know this sounds wastefull.
My set up for spraying car bodies is I have a block of wood with many holes in, about half an inch deep. In these holes I can put six inch nails in with Blu-tac on the flat head top to which I can gently put the car body, ( Blu-tac is like a sticky plastine), this gives me total freedom.
To do a pass, left to right or right to left which ever is easier, and move spray can in one motion along or across the plastic but start spraying before you reach the plastic and stop when you have gone past, don't rush or go to slow just a nice gental pass, hope this helps.
If possible practice on some old model and try the paint you want to use before applying to your model.
 
@SJC ALPHA already covered basically all the steps and cares to take when painting, I'd just add one thing that I do when I paint straight out of the cans (Tamiya or any other brand): I place the can in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes before painting, thus making the paint flow better and atomize more evenly.
My orange peel problems while painting with cans disappeared after that, everything looks way better. Just be careful to paint with thinner coats, giving it more coats (instead of fewer, thicker coats), and you'll be alright. 👍
 
Thanks for all the replies. 👍

Anyway, here's some more pics of my DBS project. Most of them are still unfinished.

A slight update to the brakes:

The seats:

The dashboard (WIP):

The interior (very much a WIP):

Various small bits:

The engine bay (again, a WIP):

Photo 5

Photo 5


The rear suspension (I don't know why, but I just don't want to remove the masking tape):​
Sorry for the smartphone-taken pictures. I will use a proper DSLR when there is major progress made.
​
Right now, my progress is stuck, as I accidentally voided one of the decals for the engine bay, and I'm still waiting for the replacement decal sheet. This brings me to my next few questions: How do you make sure that the decal will stick firmly to the surface after drying? The last time I applied a decal, it won't adhere to the surface. Why?
 
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GT HP Nut
Right now, my progress is stuck, as I accidentally voided one of the decals for the engine bay, and I'm still waiting for the replacement decal sheet. This brings me to my next few questions: How do you make sure that the decal will stick firmly to the surface after drying? The last time I applied a decal, it won't adhere to the surface. Why?
Click to expand...

Decals, can really make or break your master piece.
One reason for decals not sticking is that they have dried out. This can be from age or how they are stored, when you get this it is best to get replacements.
Decals like a smooth surface, you will find military modeller's apply a gloss coat to areas to receive decals then apply a mate coat over them.
Have you tried decal solutions ?
So you need to make sure the surface is clean, if you can apply a clear or gloss coat first and let dry. If the area to receive decals is not flat decal solutions are best to help here, after decal is applied and dry carefully apply a clear or gloss coat, even a lacquar, to seal in the decal.
Make sure that clear, gloss or any lacquar to be used is tested before you try it on your work of art or let loose on the decals.
 
SJC ALPHA
Have you tried decal solutions ?
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Never tried it before. Do you mean something like Micro Sol? What are the purpose of them, and how do they work? Is Tamiya's Mark Fit something similar, if you have used it before? Is it possible to use an extra thin cement to make the decals adhere to the surface if they have fallen off?
 
GT HP Nut
Never tried it before. Do you mean something like Micro Sol? What are the purpose of them, and how do they work? Is Tamiya's Mark Fit something similar, if you have used it before? Is it possible to use an extra thin cement to make the decals adhere to the surface if they have fallen off?
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NO, please do not use cement on decals.
Great, you've heard of Micro Sol, there is also Micro Set as well, use these.
These products are designed purposely for decals. As you've never used them, as always try first with decals you do not need, as they can be quite alarming.
Apply decals as normal, then apply with clean brush ( if you can keep a brush for this and only use for this ) Micro Sol, the result can be very alarming at first, the Sol means it will basically break down the decal, this will make the decal crinkle up and you will think it's ruined, on no account touch the decal just leave it, it will flatten out gradually while drying.
Modeller's like me who build racing vehicles use these to get decals to conform to the complex shapes racing vehicles have.
Micro Set you can use to help 'glue' the decal in place. So 'Sol' is the solvent and 'Set' is the setting solution.
Once dry apply a clear cote, or gloss or matte depending on your model.
I know Tamiya do a Decal adhesive ( have not heard of Mark Fit ) but I have not tried it, have only used Micro Sol and Set.
If you have decals that have fallen off and been off for some time you'll need new ones unfortunately.
 
SJC ALPHA
Decals, can really make or break your master piece.
One reason for decals not sticking is that they have dried out. This can be from age or how they are stored, when you get this it is best to get replacements.
Decals like a smooth surface, you will find military modeller's apply a gloss coat to areas to receive decals then apply a mate coat over them.
Have you tried decal solutions ?
So you need to make sure the surface is clean, if you can apply a clear or gloss coat first and let dry. If the area to receive decals is not flat decal solutions are best to help here, after decal is applied and dry carefully apply a clear or gloss coat, even a lacquar, to seal in the decal.
Make sure that clear, gloss or any lacquar to be used is tested before you try it on your work of art or let loose on the decals.
Click to expand...

These are great advice. I would just like to add if you use gloss paint or lacquer, be very careful to make sure there are no air bubble or water underneath the decals and let them dry up a bit first if they are moist. Otherwise it will be as easy to ruin the decal in the progress. Some clear lacquers do not react very good to decals and can attack or wrinkle decals if not sprayed properly(too thick for example). I personally ruined a few racing decals in the past but hey, it's all part of the learning experience..

For really small decals like dashboards, I personally would just apply a very thin coat of gloss using the finest Tamiya brush for protection instead of spraying the whole dash or area.
 
Been awhile since I was able to post my recent work, here is definitely a variant of Gran Turismo favorite - the NA2 NSX-R in R GT form. For this project I have tried to mimic the real Super GT car with a longitudinal mounted C32B racing engine, a custom R GT body plus a bunch of NSX GT goodies, full pictures and post in the link below - hope you enjoy!

http://silverromeo.blogspot.com/2015/12/124-honda-real-nsx-r-gt-in-monte-carlo.html

DSC03373a.jpg
 
vettefreak95
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My Stratos is finally finished, but its a mess. I almost feel bad sharing these pictures.
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One drawback of Model building is we are our biggest critics of our own work, we know of things we accomplished or not, what did not come out as expected etc.
I've been model building since the 1960's and I now build what I call 4ft models, by that I mean that most people will see your work from that distance and will not notice the things you think are obvious, what you've acheived is a skill, well done, your model looks really good, it's not a mess.
The Stratos is one of my all time favourites, I actually saw them once on the British rally.
One thing that we do, and I'm just as guilty, is try to make a perfect model, when in reality when you get close to the real thing you'll find decals placed badly, unmatching paint, body panels not meeting properly etc so in effect our models are more exact than we realise.
 

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