General Model Kit Building Thread

[AerodyManiac]

Is the surface already painted? If not, I just use a sharp #11 Exacto Blade and cut sideways very carefully or use a sanding stick to remove the material. If I do mess up (because we all make mistakes) I just use some filler to fill the mistakes.

Also, sweet undercarriage detail! 👍

But is the tip of a blade pointy and sharp enough to penetrate plastic? The hole that I’m trying to make could be as small as 1 cm x 0.5 cm, so would the blade be small enough to make such fine movements as well?

Thanks for the answer and conpliment as well. 👍

 

[Volksauto]

But is the tip of a blade pointy and sharp enough to penetrate plastic? The hole that I’m trying to make could be as small as 1 cm x 0.5 cm, so would the blade be small enough to make such fine movements as well?

Thanks for the answer and conpliment as well. 👍

I'm not sure. Is it possible that you could post a photo of this hole you're trying to make?

 

[AerodyManiac]

I'm not sure. Is it possible that you could post a photo of this hole you're trying to make?

It probably doesn’t help, but here’s one:

As you can tell, the model isn’t even started yet (hence the plastic bag wrapping it). The hole that I want to make is the indented bit that has a peg on it.

There’s also this part that I want to remove:

I want to remove the plastic mesh without damaging anything else. As you csn see, it requires some twisting around the edges, which is why I’m asking if a blade is up to the job, or is a saw more appropriate for that.

Thanks for the response.

 

[Apok]

For the small bit I'd probably use a scalpel as has already been suggested. It's kind of a messy job, but with enough persistence you can do it. I'd also make a smaller hole than you want to first and then use a file or something like that to carefully expand the hole to make sure nothing gets messed up.
Same with the plastic mesh except there you can definitely use something more appropriate like a saw. But like before make sure you cut smaller first and then sand it to the edges.

 

[Volksauto]

Gonna be starting a new project.
I just bought Tamiya's 1989 Eunos Roadster:

 

[Volksauto]

The Eunos' body is currently in primer. Gonna put a lick of color on it very soon. I'm starting assembly of the interior and chassis. I'll post pics soon.

 

[Volksauto]

Update
So I got a bit completed with the Eunos. I have a few pics of the completed interior and chassis. The body was painted Tamiya French Blue but is in need of polishing. I need to wait a day or two so I do not damage the fresh paint.
The interior has some red flocking to simulate carpeting. And I decided to go with some aftermarket rims for the model just to switch things up a bit.
(Don't mind the interior shot. I'm gonna clean up the interior, there is still loose red fibers floating around)

​

 

[AerodyManiac]

Nice work. 👍

I’ve always wondered why the Tamiya MX-5s don’t have an engine featured (as is the case with many of Tamiya’s latest offerings).

 

[DG_Silva]

Nice work. 👍

I’ve always wondered why the Tamiya MX-5s don’t have an engine featured (as is the case with many of Tamiya’s latest offerings).

There's quite a few Tamiya models that don't feature engines. They tend to be from the early 90s and haven't updated the designs.

 

[Volksauto]

Nice work. 👍

I’ve always wondered why the Tamiya MX-5s don’t have an engine featured (as is the case with many of Tamiya’s latest offerings).

There's quite a few Tamiya models that don't feature engines. They tend to be from the early 90s and haven't updated the designs.

I'm sure it costs more to tool. You need to design the styrene molds and then produce it. I'm sure the cost for the plastic adds up especially when the model is being mass produced. The lack of an engine compartment definitly reflects the price. I payed 12 bucks for the kit.

 

[Apok]

There's quite a few Tamiya models that don't feature engines. They tend to be from the early 90s and haven't updated the designs.

This. The kit is from 1989 when you'd be hard pressed to find kits with an engine and even when you did find one, the details weren't as good as nowadays.

I'm sure it costs more to tool. You need to design the styrene molds and then produce it. I'm sure the cost for the plastic adds up especially when the model is being mass produced. The lack of an engine compartment definitly reflects the price. I payed 12 bucks for the kit.

Also this, molds aren't cheap to make which is why even now a lot of car models don't have engines.

 

[Castrol96]

This. The kit is from 1989 when you'd be hard pressed to find kits with an engine and even when you did find one, the details weren't as good as nowadays.


Also this, molds aren't cheap to make which is why even now a lot of car models don't have engines.

Revell Models tend to have full engines.

 

[Apok]

Revell Models tend to have full engines.

Their more modern molds (from around 2010 onwards) tend to yes, but there are often old mold kits still for sale.

I recommend everyone use a site like scalemates when buying models to avoid getting burnt with ancient reboxed molds. For example, Revell keeps reboxing this ancient E-Type (scroll down to see the full product timeline!).
Rule of thumb for me is, if it's Tamiya, even stuff as old as from the 80s is pretty enjoyable to build (though lacking in details). For Revell and Italeri anything pre 2008ish is bound to come with a whole host of issues like old, worn out moulds and stuff just not fitting together.
Hasegawa and Fujimi tend to be pretty good as well, though a level below Tamiya in my opinion.

tl;dr
Buy Tamiya kits, they're always good.

 

[Volksauto]

This is my first Tamiya kit. And I'd have to say, I believe what everybody has told me about them. Perfect fitment and assembly. Very easy and fun to put together. I'm definitely going to by more in the future. These two are on my wish-list:

 

[Castrol96]

Their more modern molds (from around 2010 onwards) tend to yes, but there are often old mold kits still for sale.

I recommend everyone use a site like scalemates when buying models to avoid getting burnt with ancient reboxed molds. For example, Revell keeps reboxing this ancient E-Type (scroll down to see the full product timeline!).
Rule of thumb for me is, if it's Tamiya, even stuff as old as from the 80s is pretty enjoyable to build (though lacking in details). For Revell and Italeri anything pre 2008ish is bound to come with a whole host of issues like old, worn out moulds and stuff just not fitting together.
Hasegawa and Fujimi tend to be pretty good as well, though a level below Tamiya in my opinion.

tl;dr
Buy Tamiya kits, they're always good.

I have Revell 512TR which I still need to finish, has great details in the engine.

I've only built a Castrol Supra which I did for my brother and I have a R34 Z-Tune to finish.

Also I bought a built but dusty XJR-9 LM Tamiya model which I need to restore bought for £14...New costs around £50-60

 

[Apok]

Here's my current waiting list.
This doesn't even include all the non-automotive kits. Probably have around this same amount in tanks and planes still.


Yes that's the E-type I hated on in my earlier post.

 

[Johnny1996]

Hi all. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas or suggestions for what to put in a diorama?

I ask because I figure since we all build models then we all have to have some level of creativity right? Two or more creative minds could be better than one. I'm working on a two bay professional or home garage and starting with this Fujimi tool set.

 

[Volksauto]

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/42060-joes-garage/

This one is one of my favorites. The detail and lighting make it look so impressive.
The Fujimi kit you mentioned looks very neat. Lots of things included with good detail. It would fit a setting like the diorama above perfectly.

 

[Johnny1996]

That is absolutely incredible and the amount of detail blows me away. I'm definitely not on the same level as that builder but I did find things to possibly include in mine such as shop towels, parts and lights. I buy a lot of classic American muscle cars and a lot of those are 2 in 1 or 3 in 1 kits so I probably have a nice amount of spare parts I could use in my own diorama.

 

[Johnny1996]

Apologies for the double post but does anyone know how to restore waterslide decals? All I could find on this was a very uninformative silent YouTube video. There was no description and comments were disabled so I couldn't even understand what was going on there.



EDIT: Also if anyone knows of a putty safe for use on plastic I'm looking for that as well. I have Durham's Rock Hard putty but I can't find anywhere if its plastic safe.

 

[barryf1fan]

Picked this up from a buddy, whose best friend passed away. He was an avid modeler and although I never got the privilege to meet him - I got some of his models and got to hear his stories from a friend. Haven't shared any of mine in a while (need to get a few pics) but figured I would share this one as it's one of my favorites. also got the Silk Cut Jaguar and some Tamiya MotoGP bikes.

sorry for the less than stellar pics, I'm at work...

 

[Johnny1996]

Heres a rolling chassis for a 1995-96 Chevy Monte Carlo stock car I finished up back in October. The body currently doesn't have any paint on it as I haven't decided on a paint scheme (livery). I'm going for a local Saturday night short track look rather than NASCAR, which is why I chose the white tire lettering over the NASCAR standard yellow lettering.

I don't have a picture of the box or underside of the car, but if anyone wants to see either I am more than willing to take pictures to show those.

 

[barryf1fan]

Working on the Tamiya WRC Scooby - Safari edition... going slow, but just getting back into modelling after doing one model in the last decade.
This one is all done with paint brush and rattle cans, have an airbrush that I need a new compressor for. Soon hopefully.

Base layer of clear before decals.

Shooting for finishing up the body decals and interior this weekend - still quite a bit left to do though. Thanks for looking!

 

[Draggon]

That's some clean workmanship @barryf1fan 👍

 

[Draggon]

I just though to post this so you guys know I do build models....mainly hot rod and drag, but I do have the Tamiya Calsonic R-34 and Tomica Skyline Silhouette in the stash.

 

[Johnny1996]

I don't believe I've shared this here before. I built this a year ago as a winter project since I couldn't paint anything outside, and therefore couldn't work on any of my other projects. I used a 1:24 scale NASCAR diecast for size reference at the end.

Due to store availability I can't promise anything but I might be doing one or two more of these winter builds soon. The boredom is absolutely killing me.

 

[Volksauto]

I took my '68 Subaru 360 outside and took a few pics. I converted it from a hardtop to a cabriolet. It's not the cleanest looking model but I'm happy with it.

 

[barryf1fan]

^^ That's pretty darn cool! (no pun intended...)

 

[barryf1fan]

got some interior work done on the Scooby last night...

It's amazing how slow I am at this.
I did like the way the seats turned out, as I didn't want them smooth and wanted a "rough" look to them - came out okay.

 

[Volksauto]

got some interior work done on the Scooby last night...

It's amazing how slow I am at this.
I did like the way the seats turned out, as I didn't want them smooth and wanted a "rough" look to them - came out okay.

You can't rush art. Your model is turning out beautifully! Keep up the great work!