- 2,270
- United States
- G_ASHER
I'd thought about that myself 😄 https://www.ebay.com/itm/384539621828?hash=item598858f9c4:g:STUAAOSwbhJhooh4
General Model Kit Building Thread
- Thread starter eddieturner2002
- 1,619 comments
- 197,438 views
- 2,685
- Knoxville, Tennessee
Finally got around to working on the ND Miata kit I started like, over a year ago lol...
Working on the undercarriage and tail lights, and still needs a few other bits on the exterior to be finished
Working on the undercarriage and tail lights, and still needs a few other bits on the exterior to be finished
Dotini
(Banned)
- 15,742
- Seattle
- CR80_Shifty
Prontosaurus 3 is almost ready for launch. Only the spin tabs remain.
After building 3 dozen rockets in the past year, I'm ready to stop building and resume testing after the long, wet winter. I have 9 new scratch builds, 2 kits and a kitbashed CHAD to test. I will start at nearby Dahl field - but have joined the club that uses the vast 60 Acres facility and will do the higher altitude launches there.
After building 3 dozen rockets in the past year, I'm ready to stop building and resume testing after the long, wet winter. I have 9 new scratch builds, 2 kits and a kitbashed CHAD to test. I will start at nearby Dahl field - but have joined the club that uses the vast 60 Acres facility and will do the higher altitude launches there.
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
Time to dust off this old thread with some reasonably new builds.
First up an MS 410 in 1/72 scale. A French early WWII fighter depicted in finnish markings. Quite happy with the result. I scratch built the exhaust tips, did some chipping effects where they seemed to happen on the real aircraft, added detail to the landing gear and ended up with a decent result out of an average kit at best.
And my latest finished model is this 1/24 scale Impreza from the 2002 Tour de Corse rally.
First up an MS 410 in 1/72 scale. A French early WWII fighter depicted in finnish markings. Quite happy with the result. I scratch built the exhaust tips, did some chipping effects where they seemed to happen on the real aircraft, added detail to the landing gear and ended up with a decent result out of an average kit at best.
And my latest finished model is this 1/24 scale Impreza from the 2002 Tour de Corse rally.
- 8,844
- Ottawa
- Automotive_Buff
- 5,069
- Panama City, FL
I was going to criticize the Subaru for having defroster lines on the rear window, not expecting the rally car to have them; I was thinking the kit manufacturer just used what they had from a stock Imprezza kit, but a Google image search for the car clearly shows defroster lines. So... never mind! 😄
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
Glad you think so, That was from an aftermarket decal sheet and it was a pain to get it to wrap around the housing.
- 2,392
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
Finally got my room setup after our move from Oklahoma to Florida. Kicked off the return to modelling with an Indy car build.
Did the 1/20 Tamiya Lola T93/00 Ford Newman Haas car of Nigel Mansell. This is a snap-tite kit, but I built it like a normal kit, except where the snap parts were sufficient - it's actually a pretty decent kit for a snap-tite kind. Anywho, here are some build pics and final shots.
Had to order new decals as the old ones were yellow - glad Indycals has these...
Tried out some new primer I had gotten right before we packed up.
Painting the body pieces and adding the decals.
Finished up!
Thanks for looking in!!
And I'm back on the Jagermeister Alfa Romeo 155 DTM... I'm doing a Detail-Up set on this one, first time trying resin and metal parts on a kit. I may post some updates on it as I go - I've already got about 10-12 hours in it and haven't even really started. Lol !! All the PE parts are pretty fiddly but so far it's looking a lot better than stock.
ie.: Here's the brakes built up with the aftermarket parts versus the stock parts:
Did the 1/20 Tamiya Lola T93/00 Ford Newman Haas car of Nigel Mansell. This is a snap-tite kit, but I built it like a normal kit, except where the snap parts were sufficient - it's actually a pretty decent kit for a snap-tite kind. Anywho, here are some build pics and final shots.
Had to order new decals as the old ones were yellow - glad Indycals has these...
Tried out some new primer I had gotten right before we packed up.
Painting the body pieces and adding the decals.
Finished up!
Thanks for looking in!!
And I'm back on the Jagermeister Alfa Romeo 155 DTM... I'm doing a Detail-Up set on this one, first time trying resin and metal parts on a kit. I may post some updates on it as I go - I've already got about 10-12 hours in it and haven't even really started. Lol !! All the PE parts are pretty fiddly but so far it's looking a lot better than stock.
ie.: Here's the brakes built up with the aftermarket parts versus the stock parts:
Pete05
Premium
- 7,081
- Melbourne, Australia
Congratulations on the Indycar build. It has turned out really well even if you had to replace the yellowed decals. This kit, and the oval-spec Dick Simon kit, are both on my wishlist & will be added to my growing stash in the future. It's good to know Indycals have replacements as I hope to build both as Newman-Haas cars. One Nigel & one Mario.Finally got my room setup after our move from Oklahoma to Florida. Kicked off the return to modelling with an Indy car build.
Did the 1/20 Tamiya Lola T93/00 Ford Newman Haas car of Nigel Mansell. This is a snap-tite kit, but I built it like a normal kit, except where the snap parts were sufficient - it's actually a pretty decent kit for a snap-tite kind. Anywho, here are some build pics and final shots.
Had to order new decals as the old ones were yellow - glad Indycals has these...
Tried out some new primer I had gotten right before we packed up.
Painting the body pieces and adding the decals.
Finished up!
Thanks for looking in!!
And I'm back on the Jagermeister Alfa Romeo 155 DTM... I'm doing a Detail-Up set on this one, first time trying resin and metal parts on a kit. I may post some updates on it as I go - I've already got about 10-12 hours in it and haven't even really started. Lol !! All the PE parts are pretty fiddly but so far it's looking a lot better than stock.
ie.: Here's the brakes built up with the aftermarket parts versus the stock parts:
Your move mirrors what I have coming up later this year so I'm not building at the moment. Just waiting to get set up in my new place & making sure I have everything I need once I'm in.
Good luck with the Alfa & please post updates of your build. The Jagermeister car is the same kit as the factory-livery kit with just a change of decals & mould colour. The factory car is also on my wishlist so I'm very interested to see how it turns out.
- 2,392
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
Thanks Pete, and good luck with the move!! I moved us halfway across the US by myself - at 51 years old that, to date, is the dumbest thing I've ever done.
I'll try and keep up in here, but I post to a model dedicated forum, already have a WIP thread going... and I L-O-V-E the DTM Alfa's, have all 3 of them. The factory Red one, the Martini one, and the Jager car.
Pete05
Premium
- 7,081
- Melbourne, Australia
Lucky for me, I only have to move a few suburbs away so nowhere near as daunting as a cross country relocation.Thanks Pete, and good luck with the move!! I moved us halfway across the US by myself - at 51 years old that, to date, is the dumbest thing I've ever done.
I'll try and keep up in here, but I post to a model dedicated forum, already have a WIP thread going... and I L-O-V-E the DTM Alfa's, have all 3 of them. The factory Red one, the Martini one, and the Jager car.
I hope you were able to do it in one go & not multiple trips? They don't hand out points for frequent drivers.
Where is the model dedicated forum?
I'm signed up to a few pages on Facebook & this thread here, but that's it.
That Martini Alfa is also on the wishlist.
It looks different enough to be worth doing.
- 2,392
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
https://intscalemodeller.com/index.php
The thread is in the "Models Work in Progress" / "Road Vehicles", down towrads the bottom. Lot of talented people there.
And no, had to do two trips - but it's done and will never be done again. LOL!!
The thread is in the "Models Work in Progress" / "Road Vehicles", down towrads the bottom. Lot of talented people there.
And no, had to do two trips - but it's done and will never be done again. LOL!!
Pete05
Premium
- 7,081
- Melbourne, Australia
Oh yes, Paul.
I've watched many of his videos on Youtube. I'll definitely be joining up.
Thanks for the link 👍
- 5,069
- Panama City, FL
I've run into the Tamiya yellowing decals myself, and it's quite disappointing!! Notice that the aftermarket cigarette brand decals did not turn yellow...
Another model... These are both from Tamiya's 1/12 Grand Prix collection, and are excellent kits, other than the decal fad.
I also have that same Indycar, and was also impressed with the quality of the kit, not expecting much because of the snap-together. It could do with more detail under the bodywork, but I've never been able to bother... And that rear wing assembly is molded as one piece!
- 2,392
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
You should clear coat your models, especially the decal areas (ie., the bodywork), as this will keep the decals from yellowing. I have a Tamiya Ferrari F189 I did over 25 years ago that the decals haven't yellowed.I've run into the Tamiya yellowing decals myself, and it's quite disappointing!! Notice that the aftermarket cigarette brand decals did not turn yellow...
Another model... These are both from Tamiya's 1/12 Grand Prix collection, and are excellent kits, other than the decal fad.
I also have that same Indycar, and was also impressed with the quality of the kit, not expecting much because of the snap-together. It could do with more detail under the bodywork, but I've never been able to bother... And that rear wing assembly is molded as one piece!
Not the best job I've ever done (but I built this kit in 1992 or 1993...), but this was probably the first (maybe second) kit that I built not to shoot with a BB gun or blow up with firecrackers.
This one has a light clear coat of Tamiya Clear over it. Had no clue what I was doing back then (still don't, really), but clearing your model's bodywork will protect the paint and the decals.I took a few pics after I cleaned it up - it was covered in dust - So I finally got a display case for it.
Found a couple more. Kind of a weird one, when I first got my spray booth and decided to clean up this model (I almost threw it away...)
Here you can see the suspension arms weren't completely cleaned up yet.
And yes, missing a GO there... obviously not any clear there, or not nearly enough. I do remember that this was the first kit I did a clear coat. First Tamiya kit and the guy where I bought it from (it was a LHS that did R/C too) suggested I do the clear over it.
Last edited:
- 2,392
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
BTW, here are some Rene Arnoux replacement decalsI've run into the Tamiya yellowing decals myself, and it's quite disappointing!! Notice that the aftermarket cigarette brand decals did not turn yellow...
Another model... These are both from Tamiya's 1/12 Grand Prix collection, and are excellent kits, other than the decal fad.
I also have that same Indycar, and was also impressed with the quality of the kit, not expecting much because of the snap-together. It could do with more detail under the bodywork, but I've never been able to bother... And that rear wing assembly is molded as one piece!
And I think you can get the MP4/6 decals from either Hiroboy (out of UK), or SpotModel (out of Spain). Have ordered from both many times without a problem.
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
The way things are now there's simply no reason not to clear coat. There are a variety of great brands offering all kinds of clear coats. Spray can or for airbrush. Acrylic or lacquer. UV resistant etc etc.
I've been getting on very well with Hataka brand lacquer clear coat. I stay away from acrylic clear coats because I find they take way too long to fully cure (not dry, but cure. There is a difference and that difference can be up to a few months). Tamiya spray can clear coat is also excellent.
A clear coat just provides so many positives. An important one being the protection of decals from the sun, time, handling, polishing etc. Good stuff.
I've been getting on very well with Hataka brand lacquer clear coat. I stay away from acrylic clear coats because I find they take way too long to fully cure (not dry, but cure. There is a difference and that difference can be up to a few months). Tamiya spray can clear coat is also excellent.
A clear coat just provides so many positives. An important one being the protection of decals from the sun, time, handling, polishing etc. Good stuff.
- 3,182
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
Speaking of acrylic paints, does anybody here know if coloured/pigmented paints take an equally long time to cure compared to their clear counterparts? I sprayed some Mr Hobby acrylic clear (the green canned one) out of a spray can onto my car body, and masked the entire body off in order to spray the engine bay with Tamiya’s XF-1 using an airbrush. Waited around 1 to 1.5 months before masking, but still, after I have sprayed the XF-1, done the detail painting, and taken off the masking tape, this happens:
At that moment I knew I screwed up.
My available options are, as I understand: sand down the entire thing until none of those masking tape marks are visible, leaving only the matte black bits untouched, and then spraying another layer of clear (acrylic or lacquer, I haven’t decided yet, but I’ll probably go with the latter because lacquer just seems more durable), or just forgoing all the sanding and proceed straight to spraying. I know this is a risky process (because lacquer over acrylic), but I’ll have to push ahead, and I’ll never strip the paint again because 1) there are already decals over the body (no replacement unfortunately) and 2) I’ve done it more than once with this body, and broken the beam connecting the A-pillars. Stripping the paint and scrubbing it with a toothbrush (or anything, really) is likely only gonna break the beam even more or even detach it to the point of irrepairability.
My only concern is I’d have to mask off the matte bits, but the matte bits are also painted with acrylic paints, so I fear the exact same happening to my engine bay, which, given its convoluted surface and if that happens, will be absolutely impossible to fix.
To cast a brighter light, there is some progress though. The engine and the underbody are completely done now. Some pics of the engine before it was cemented onto the chassis piece:
The belt bits are pretty nicely done, which is a shame if you consider that they won’t be visible at all once the entire car is assembled.
Here’s the engine in its current state:
And here’s a pic of the underbody:
I’m not planning to cement the underbody cover, because I don’t want the details to be forever hidden behind it. I think I’m probably gonna just loosely attach it with a masking tape.
So yeah, that’s pretty much it.
- 2,392
- St. Cloud, Florida
- aracefan
- 2,685
- Knoxville, Tennessee
Managed to get the Konigs on my 1:1 printed in resin a few days ago:
If I can find some slightly larger, lower profile tires I want to re-print them. They look like 16" wheels rather than the 17" I have lol...
If I can find some slightly larger, lower profile tires I want to re-print them. They look like 16" wheels rather than the 17" I have lol...
- 324
- Hungary
Dragon models 1/6 scale 1/4 Ton Willis Jeep.
It also comes with a .50 Cal Machine Gun which I did not build yet.
I opted to paint it in the desert Tan color instead of the intended military green.
The lights are my addition they are not part of the kit. I 3D printed a battery holder that fits in the engine bay. The model does not come with an engine, so the engine bay is virtually empty anyway.
Interesting fact that the tyres are pre-installed on the wheels and are impossible to get off, so masking them for painting was PITA.
Also one sixth scale Ellie can sit comfortably in it
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
It's the 1/24 scale Fujimi kit. I believe the Revell is a rebox of the Fujimi so should be the same as mine. The Meng is a newer mold.
It's a pretty good kit though beware if you attach the front bottom lamps without thinning them out first, the clear plastic cover will not fit. I sanded the back side of the lamp housing first. Also the rear wheels are a little wobbly which isn't a problem for a static model, but they'll move around if you try and roll it.
Similar threads
