I think you may have maxed out the engine speed, that's why you don't see any difference in top speed. If you test the acceleration you may see a greater effect.Tried it myself and there is a slight difference (almost non-existent):
SSRX, Custom Race, Grid Start, no wind, no slipstream, no bumpdraft, with 10x Fuel Consumption Rate, stock IONIQ 5 N.
Overtake off:
- Top speed (no elevation): 259 km/h
- Min speed uphill: 257 km/h
- Top speed downhill: 262 km/h
- Ran out of battery right before the 7100m marker
Overtake on:
- Top speed (no elevation): 260 km/h
- Min speed uphill: 257 km/h
- Top speed downhill: 262 km/h
- Ran out of battery just after the 7000m marker
Did not test the difference in acceleration, but it should also be minimal.
Ok, you got there. LoL
Yeah, while i was testing some cars last night, such as the F3500-A & the AMG GT3, i never really noticed any difference when it comes to the analog sticks either.Another thing I'm interested in are the changes related to using analog sticks on the controller, a that's my main input mode. I haven't really noticed any difference there, though -- at least in the Red Bull Ring race.
I also put in a few laps in the F3500-A for the time trial. I found that car really hard to manage, but I'm guess that has more to do with the car than the controller.
I'll have to do some more driving to see if I notice any difference with the controller. So far, the effects seem pretty subtle.
What wing?
Doing Dally Race A this morning and I think I saw something different with steering on the controller. For example, if you do a hairpin you will lock your stick for a long period of time. But the animation of your hands will stuck at 90 and if the game detect your are still slowing down and still the stick at max, then the hands will turn a bit more to max turning of the car and almost hands crossing point.Yeah, while i was testing some cars last night, such as the F3500-A & the AMG GT3, i never really noticed any difference when it comes to the analog sticks either.
When Fanatec was bought out by Corsair they updated the CSL bases. I thought they stated they were no longer offering recommended setups and that auto was the optimal setting? At least, for GT7?picked up update 1.55 where I left in the previous build: nordscheleife in a GR86.
At first the FFB was weird, clipping a lot with the slightest hint of understeer. It even clipped in weight transfers. This got me to search and test what seems to be a good approach on Fanatec wheels (CSL elite in my case): put the wheel in auto setting a the game in 5/5 to begin with.
Immediately feel was much improved and that weird clipping was gone, now giving a more progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front wheels. To retain the crisp, texture feedback of the road, the drift setting went from -5 to -1 and in-game sensitivity to 10.
Wheel now feels meaty and informative.
Still lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s 😅
Good thing the transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now👌
Next I took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction. Before there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to a certain spin. Now you can catch the slings, aloe the car to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks PD!!
Very subtle. No one will suspect a thing...
I did think there was a difference in acceleration but I thought it would be minimal and pointless to test.I think you may have maxed out the engine speed, that's why you don't see any difference in top speed. If you test the acceleration you may see a greater effect.
That'll make the tailgate so heavy. How's your mum supposed to open it to get the groceries in?Very subtle. No one will suspect a thing...
Basically Plaid mode on Tesla. Makes senseI did think there was a difference in acceleration but I thought it would be minimal and pointless to test.
Since I don't value my time though, here are the results of the IONIQ 5 N's acceleration (completely stock), with and without Overtake:
Overtake off:
0-100 km/h in 4.662s
0-200 km/h in 13.259s
Overtake on:
0-100 km/h in 4.398s
0-200 km/h in 12.321s
That is glorious! I will take the double post reprimand just to say how amazing that comment is and it owes me .89p of wineThat'll make the tailgate so heavy. How's your mum supposed to open it to get the groceries in?
Yup. Have to get in the car to get the updated PP to populate.Is needing to select a car in order for the PP to be displayed correctly normal for a physics update? Is it maybe just me? Having my group of 600 PP cars not all being at 600 is fine, but not having the correct number there until I get in each I want to drive is cumbersome.
Yep. It sucks. I had probably 100 cars tuned for 600pp then the physics changed last year. They all increased by a few points. Dialed out a few pp on some of them but the physics were so bad that the cars drove nothing like they used to. Now they change the physics again and most of my cars have jumped another 5-10pp making a lot of my 600pp cars really difficult to bring back in to the 600pp range without eliminating parts or going to a lower grade tire compound.Yup. Have to get in the car to get the updated PP to populate.
picked up update 1.55 where I left in the previous build: nordscheleife in a GR86.
At first the FFB was weird, clipping a lot with the slightest hint of understeer. It even clipped in weight transfers. This got me to search and test what seems to be a good approach on Fanatec wheels (CSL elite in my case): put the wheel in auto setting a the game in 5/5 to begin with.
Immediately feel was much improved and that weird clipping was gone, now giving a more progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front wheels. To retain the crisp, texture feedback of the road, the drift setting went from -5 to -1 and in-game sensitivity to 10.
Wheel now feels meaty and informative.
Still lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s 😅
Good thing the transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now👌
Next I took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction. Before there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to a certain spin. Now you can catch the slings, aloe the car to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks PD!!
I think you need a cold shower mate.Nice write up and descriptive use of language... not sure Durex will be happy, if they discover your blatant plagiarism of one their products exec summary feedbacks mate
Some superb metaphors in there :
'It even clipped in weight transfers'
'crisp, texture feedback of the road'
'Immediately feel was much improved'
'progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front'
'now feels meaty and informative.'
'lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s'
'transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now'
'took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction.'
'there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to (climax...).'
'catch the slings, aloe the car (...penis/sheath) to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks (Durex).'
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To most people, that's all a car is.It's the times we live in. Unfortunately due to economy and emissions standards, the most efficient cars have become miserable appliances.