- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
Gran Turismo Sport Now Officially Supports the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4
- Thread starter GTPNewsWire
- 69 comments
- 30,041 views
- 146
- Austria
- RA-1784
Yes. SEN to 100 when karting
- 129
- Netherlands
Anybody have any issues with the torque setting resetting itself every race? I recently started playing again now that the CSL is supported. I put my torque @ 6, sensitivity @ 7, and every time I start a race my torque is back @ 2?! It remembers the rest of the settings, but not torque. 
- 23
- Germany
- Gruzzlebeard1
This is a known issue
- 3,544
- Theresa, Wisconsin
Can any of you Fanatec users help me? Last week up until PD's last update I was using my wheel in BLUE MODE piggybacking off of the Logitec G29 wheel in PS 4 GT Sport. Is there a way I can go back to that setting with my Fanatec? If I press the mode button on my wheel after the game is loaded and wheel is calibrated it just quits working, to get it to work again I need to reload the game and power the wheel off then back on, is this normal?
- 23
- Germany
- Gruzzlebeard1
I don't use "AUT". I use 540 Degrees for GT3 and 900 for GT4 and street cars. If you are on a track and you choose the cockpit view in the car you can compare the wheel movements between your real wheel and the car wheel. They are exactly identically. Don't know how many degrees are required for Gt1.
- 23
- Germany
- Gruzzlebeard1
In which mode are you after calibration?. Actually you should be in the same mode like you finished last time. So after start you should be in blue mode already.
Hello,
I apologize in advance for my English language, I use google compiler.
After updating the 1.15 GTS I was very happy, I will have full support Fanatec CSL elite + Pedals ClubSport V3. The first tests were disappointing and I went back to the original settings in the magenta mode and in the G29 GTS setting. In the game I went all the time:
Sensitivity control - 0
Feedback Maximum Torque - 4
Retroactivity Sensitivity - 5
On the steering wheel, all the factory settings just modified the ABS to 40 to feel half the brake pedal.
I started searching for the GTPlanet and Fanatec forums for feedback and advice from other Fanatec CSL owners.
I bite the tests and eventually succeed.
The blue diode for the PS4 is set to the steering wheel.
Here my complete settings:
The Fanatec steering wheel is selected in GTS and the following values are set:
Control sensitivity - 1 or 2 (I will continue to test this value)
Maximum torque - 10 (at this value, take the ATTENTION when jumping on the track, this value changes to 4 some GTS bug)
Retroactivity Sensitivity - 10
I gave 10 values according to the CSL manual where it is written to set the max value in the game so that the maximum signal goes to the steering wheel.
Here the complete Fanatec CSL steering wheel setting, which I use the ClubSport V3 pedals:
SEN: AUT (or 54)
FF: 80
SHO: 100
ABS: 40 (for the ClubSport V3 pedals, the brake pedal will vibrate from the middle)
DRI: -05
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
BRF: 50
FEI: 50
With this setup I'm still satisfied, I just have to get used to the big wheel shocks with the wheels turned, it can handle it and the steering wheel at least tells us that we are spinning too much.
Even clean bikes do not vibrate, so I have a good feeling that I do not cross the wheels.
My friend, who has said T-GT, has this feature too, but I do not want to shut down Fanatec CSL or I did not get it.
Again, I apologize for the google translator, perhaps my lines will be understandable to you.
I'll be glad if you add your own Fanatc CSL elite steering wheel controls, just enter all the GTS and steering wheel values.
I would also like to thank you for having the Fanatec CSL elite and the ClubSport V3 pedals at home for the highest level of functionality, design, workmanship, quality. Very good FANATEC ;-)
I apologize in advance for my English language, I use google compiler.
After updating the 1.15 GTS I was very happy, I will have full support Fanatec CSL elite + Pedals ClubSport V3. The first tests were disappointing and I went back to the original settings in the magenta mode and in the G29 GTS setting. In the game I went all the time:
Sensitivity control - 0
Feedback Maximum Torque - 4
Retroactivity Sensitivity - 5
On the steering wheel, all the factory settings just modified the ABS to 40 to feel half the brake pedal.
I started searching for the GTPlanet and Fanatec forums for feedback and advice from other Fanatec CSL owners.
I bite the tests and eventually succeed.
The blue diode for the PS4 is set to the steering wheel.
Here my complete settings:
The Fanatec steering wheel is selected in GTS and the following values are set:
Control sensitivity - 1 or 2 (I will continue to test this value)
Maximum torque - 10 (at this value, take the ATTENTION when jumping on the track, this value changes to 4 some GTS bug)
Retroactivity Sensitivity - 10
I gave 10 values according to the CSL manual where it is written to set the max value in the game so that the maximum signal goes to the steering wheel.
Here the complete Fanatec CSL steering wheel setting, which I use the ClubSport V3 pedals:
SEN: AUT (or 54)
FF: 80
SHO: 100
ABS: 40 (for the ClubSport V3 pedals, the brake pedal will vibrate from the middle)
DRI: -05
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
BRF: 50
FEI: 50
With this setup I'm still satisfied, I just have to get used to the big wheel shocks with the wheels turned, it can handle it and the steering wheel at least tells us that we are spinning too much.
Even clean bikes do not vibrate, so I have a good feeling that I do not cross the wheels.
My friend, who has said T-GT, has this feature too, but I do not want to shut down Fanatec CSL or I did not get it.
Again, I apologize for the google translator, perhaps my lines will be understandable to you.
I'll be glad if you add your own Fanatc CSL elite steering wheel controls, just enter all the GTS and steering wheel values.
I would also like to thank you for having the Fanatec CSL elite and the ClubSport V3 pedals at home for the highest level of functionality, design, workmanship, quality. Very good FANATEC ;-)
- 3,544
- Theresa, Wisconsin
I have no choice but to use my Fanatec in BLUE MODE, as I stated it went work in anything else. The wheel works so miserably right now that I would like to go back to the settings all of us Fanatec uses were using last week before the PD update. I was using Blue Mode and piggybacking off of the G29 setting choice. My wheel will not work with anything but blue mode.
- 3,544
- Theresa, Wisconsin
SEN: AUT (or 54) #68
FF: 80. #70
SHO: 100. #100
ABS: 40 (for the ClubSport V3 pedals, the brake pedal will vibrate from the middle)
DRI: -05. #-05
FOR: 100. #70
SPR: 100. #70
DPR: 100. #70
BRF: 50
FEI: 5. #OFF
My settings are after the #sign, I did not include brakes because my brakes work good. You must include the Sony in game settings because they have an enormous effect on steering feel.
Force Feedback=2
Sensitivity. =2
I would like more steering resistance but that also seems to come with a heavier rattle and the wheel also tends to turn back the more resistance you add. They need to do something about the rattle and the way way the wheel pushes back at you with so much force. Those 2 forces need to be greatly reduced or adjustable seperately from turning resistance. The rumble strips are tolerable but the front wheel lock up is a joke, they made a mess of that.
FF: 80. #70
SHO: 100. #100
ABS: 40 (for the ClubSport V3 pedals, the brake pedal will vibrate from the middle)
DRI: -05. #-05
FOR: 100. #70
SPR: 100. #70
DPR: 100. #70
BRF: 50
FEI: 5. #OFF
My settings are after the #sign, I did not include brakes because my brakes work good. You must include the Sony in game settings because they have an enormous effect on steering feel.
Force Feedback=2
Sensitivity. =2
I would like more steering resistance but that also seems to come with a heavier rattle and the wheel also tends to turn back the more resistance you add. They need to do something about the rattle and the way way the wheel pushes back at you with so much force. Those 2 forces need to be greatly reduced or adjustable seperately from turning resistance. The rumble strips are tolerable but the front wheel lock up is a joke, they made a mess of that.
- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
I’m having a really big problem now.
My csl Elite starts shaking when I press retry when running qualifying laps in the dailies. I have to turn it off then back again for it to stop. Not good at all...
Is someone experiencing this too?
My csl Elite starts shaking when I press retry when running qualifying laps in the dailies. I have to turn it off then back again for it to stop. Not good at all...
Is someone experiencing this too?
Nope. Just had ones some rattling when I started to drive. Had to restart the wheel and everything was fine.
- 3,544
- Theresa, Wisconsin
- 269
- WyldAnimal_
I've been running my CSL E on the Drive Hub unit since the Beta.
I use it in Purple Mode on the Drive hub.
I'm using the F1 Black rim.
( I have the McLaren GT3 Rim on Order, hope it works just as well. It's been delayed till end of April )
There is no Vibration on the V3 pedals, of course, and the left side joy stick is not functional.
But, everything else was great..
I've been in on-line lobbies, and pointed out road bumps, that no one else seemed to be able to notice.
Like expansion joints. I feel every one of them, as a thump and push on the wheel.
with the latest update, there is a very slight difference but nothing extreme.
I'm not sure I want to Connect it with out the Drive hub, since it's been working
and is still working good.
The ONLY issue I ever have, is that sometimes the V3 Pedals are not responsive.
They just don't work..
I usually have to unPlug the Pedals from the Rear Jack on the base...
wait about 30 to 60 seconds for the Purple light to do it's thing...
Then re-plug the Pedals in to the base.
Sometimes I have to repeat this 2 or three times before the pedals
become functional.
but this I relate to the base, or possibly the Firmware level.
I'm behind one or two Firmware updates on the base and Pedals.
Oh, I'm also using the Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter with the USB cable.
Since the drive hub allows you to Mix and match vendor peripherals.
( i did the same thing with my G29 Wheel. Used the Drive Hub so I
could use the Thrustmaster shifter with it. )
For now, I have no reason to stop using the drive Hub, and 8 reason ( H pattern shifter ) to keep using it..
So for anyone with a Fanatec Base. I highly Recommend the Drive Hub as the way to connect and use it.
Even now, with in Game Fanatec Wheel support, I still recommend the Drive hub.
( this is a Non-Paid opinion )
I use it in Purple Mode on the Drive hub.
I'm using the F1 Black rim.
( I have the McLaren GT3 Rim on Order, hope it works just as well. It's been delayed till end of April )
There is no Vibration on the V3 pedals, of course, and the left side joy stick is not functional.
But, everything else was great..
I've been in on-line lobbies, and pointed out road bumps, that no one else seemed to be able to notice.
Like expansion joints. I feel every one of them, as a thump and push on the wheel.
with the latest update, there is a very slight difference but nothing extreme.
I'm not sure I want to Connect it with out the Drive hub, since it's been working
and is still working good.
The ONLY issue I ever have, is that sometimes the V3 Pedals are not responsive.
They just don't work..
I usually have to unPlug the Pedals from the Rear Jack on the base...
wait about 30 to 60 seconds for the Purple light to do it's thing...
Then re-plug the Pedals in to the base.
Sometimes I have to repeat this 2 or three times before the pedals
become functional.
but this I relate to the base, or possibly the Firmware level.
I'm behind one or two Firmware updates on the base and Pedals.
Oh, I'm also using the Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter with the USB cable.
Since the drive hub allows you to Mix and match vendor peripherals.
( i did the same thing with my G29 Wheel. Used the Drive Hub so I
could use the Thrustmaster shifter with it. )
For now, I have no reason to stop using the drive Hub, and 8 reason ( H pattern shifter ) to keep using it..
So for anyone with a Fanatec Base. I highly Recommend the Drive Hub as the way to connect and use it.
Even now, with in Game Fanatec Wheel support, I still recommend the Drive hub.
( this is a Non-Paid opinion )
- 18
- Magdeburg
- sma_online
Yes got this too, ruined my race yesterday, i came out of the pits after 6 laps of racing then it starts shaking.
- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
- 426
- United States
- andrewhake
The implementation is still in progress so experiencing anything like this should be fixable with a quick reset of the wheel. I did have this happen once but haven't been able to replicate it again. I am guessing it has something to do with pausing the game while the wheel is experiencing a lot of rumble or something, but I haven't been able to duplicate it.
If you are able to replicate it consistently definitely post up with clear steps and even post in the @Fanatec... forums so they can relay it to PD.
- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
It stoped happening after reinstalling the firmware. I don’t know if it was just luck...
I know it’s “fixable”, but it happened to me going from the practice to the race. Not nice... and I know they’re gonna improve the support. Just trying to figure things out while that doesn’t happen.
Anyway... thanks for taking your time to respond.
- 30
- SW Florida
For me the wheel itself feels great. Not getting any rev light function unfortunately. Also been having the loadcell pedal function dropout on a regular and infuriating schedule. Quite frankly the brake pedal not functioning is by far the worst issue. I cant even ****ing drive without brakes. Ill be 10 laps into a race and they just stop working.
- 59
- United States
- nige48
The wheel pushing back toward the center is the SPRING setting (SPR on the wheel). Try setting that low or turn it off and see how that feels. Here is the Fanatec CSL Elite manual description for the Force, Spring and Damper settings.
7.3.7 FOR (force), SPR (spring), DPR (damper)
FOR range: OFF 010 … 120 FOR default: 100 (%)
SPR range: OFF 010 … 120 SPR default: 100 (%)
DPR range: OFF 010 … 120 DPR default: 100 (%)
These force feedback modifiers give you the ability to change the force feedback signals of a game (only applicable if game uses these effects). In theory there are three types of signals which a game can send:
- Force (pushes the wheel into a special direction),
- spring (pulls the wheel towards the dynamic center) and
- damper (creates friction). Not every game uses all types of effects
Note: If SPR is set to low values or ‘OFF’ the CSL Elite Racing Wheel will not be able to move the attached steering wheel to correct center position after calibration run.
IMPORTANT: Only set these values higher than 100% if the force feedback effects are clearly not strong enough and weaker in comparison to
other games. When the game sends full effects and the wheel is set to 100% then the device will work on its power limit. Pushing up one value
to a very high number or even raising multiple values will result in higher load on the motor and increased heat development.
For further information check the FAQ section on our website www.fanatec.com/support
JamCar0ne
Premium
- 1,938
- Illinois
- JamCar0ne
I have to press the PS button and select which user profile is using the wheel every time I switch modes on the wheel.
- 10
- United States
Ok. So I finally left the purple mode and used the advice on this thread to get the wheel tuned perfectly. I used a Ferrari 458 Italian GT3 at a track and felt that the settings were pretty close to perfect. I then entered a sport race in the exact same car and the wheel feels light and numb with very little feedback and only over the gators. Any idea what went wrong?
Before last patch i had max force setting set to 1. So its a known bug atm that every new race you enter it will default to your value you hade pre patch. So every race i enter i have to change my value to 3 wich i find good right now. So if you felt your settings are good you have to change your max torque value every new race. In my case i got very weak force just like you experienced and that was because max torque was going back to 1 every new race. This will get fixed in next week patch
- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
The in game conifg keeps resetting. Check that.
- 1,521
- Seixal
- zefthebestofcour
Nice!! And would you please share your setting with the rest of the World??? Please?? (on the wheel and n the game)...
Yep. that´s the reason... we have to set it back to our new value before the race starts!!!! (even after warm up!!!!)
I like to keep Max Torque on max 2... but 3 may be an option on cars with far less grip...
- 10
- United States
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