Alrighty! So, settings?
Springs: 5/2.7
Seattle is a bumpy track, it likes soft suspension. Being able to absorb the bumps without unsettling the car makes for speed. I think it was a BMW race car in the reverse direction when someone discovered having everything on minimum turned out to be one of the fastest setups by a good margin. Since then, I've tried to start at the bottom for these bumpier tracks. And, because GT4 doesn't make sense, you stiffen whichever end you want to have more grip. This combination(full soft on the rear, front turned up a few) was settled upon early in the week, just seemed to feel right.
Ride height: 120/130
Relatively lots of travel to allow for bump absorbtion. I tried lower settings and they didn't seem to make too much difference, but I didn't waste too much time looking there as I knew this would in theory work better.
Bound: 1/2
When I think of bound, some of my thoughts go into weight transfer, but in this case, the main thing was being able to go over curbs and such without disturbing the peace. The rear was up to 2 to try and reduce weight transfer off of the front tires when getting on the throttle.
Rebound: 7/4
I like to use rebound for playing with weight transfer for the most part as well. Thus the stiffer front to also try to reduce transfer off of the front tires while getting on the throttle. The lower this number though the easier it is for the springs to push the wheel back down after being popped up over a curb, thus being in contact with the ground more often.
Camber: 2.2/1.0
Camber this week was a bit more random... I originally started out at 0/0, and then worked my way up from there. I was at 2.0 and .8 for a good bit of the racing, but wanted more grip while in the turns and ended up bumping it up a little more. The thoughts of higher camber being detrimental to braking distances is something to think about, but I don't think it comes into play enough at levels as low as 2.2 and 1, or at least the benefits made up for everything.
Toe: 0/0
I never played around with toe settings this week, but I do believe there could've been some benefit. This would be one of the last things I'd tinker with though, and I never had the time to get around to it.
Swaybars: 1/1
As I've mentioned, Seattle is a bumpy track, and has lots of curbs. If you have stiffer swaybars and go over a curb with one side of the car, the other wheels that did NOT go over the curb will still be affected. Any disturbances to the wheels will create a loss of grip, and I wanted to maintain all I could. Softer swaybars don't allow as much disruption to the other pair of tires, thus allowing more traction.
BB: 6/5
Thanks Hugo on the tip to make the front a tad stronger. Back in the my GT2 days I liked to bump up the rear strength to get cars to rotate a little better. Here though, doing that made the braking distances noticeably longer. Something even higher like Hugo's 8/7 may have worked even better, but I worked my way up from 4/3 to the 6/5 and that worked well enough.
LSD was originally set at 5/5/5 5/5/5 when I was using 3rd through 6th. If I could get it JUST right, I could get the inside wheel(s) to spin just enough to give me a sort of slingshot effect out of the three low speed turns. That method was a BIT inconsistent though, as you can imagine. Most of the time either bogging or spinning the wheels too much. In yesterday's session I decided I had had enough of that. My issue with using the 2nd through 5th strategy was that I'd get wheelspin too easily... That's where the completely random thought, 💡 lol, to actually USE the LSD came in. I ended up with 5/6/5 5/22/6. I use the rear decel to control amount of lift throttle/trail braking oversteer, and the rear accel to control the amount of inside wheel spin for the slower corners(started at 8, worked down to 6). 22 seemed to be just right, 24 wasn't enough spin, and 20 was too much. The front accel rate of 6 was just to help any random front wheelspin that may want to occur and throw me off course.
VCD: 10
This was ALWAYS on 10. Being an AWD car that's understeery by nature, you want as LITTLE power going through the front wheels as possible. Anything you put through the front wheels on top of the turning already going on will just reduce the front end's turning grip. I want to turn while being on the power, and this is as close as I could get to it. Getting the inside tire(s) to spin a little bit also helped rotate the car.
Gearing was a custom mix, originally starting with my version of tranny tuning that I've been using since GT2. I can go into that further upon request. As mentioned, I was using 2nd through 5th ONLY.
Here's another couple of bits of possibly interesting information... I shifted at 7500rpm for the most part, as opposed to nearer the 8000rpm redline. That didn't really seem to make much of a difference(I think?) but it just felt right, so maybe it did make one. I didn't look into it enough to know for sure, it just felt right. And the other thing, I went for more torque than horsepower. I think there was another combo that allowed higher replay HP, but had one or two(maybe three?) less torque. My setup consisted of the chip and sports intercooler.
I think that about sums it up?