GT5 needs to have DEAD zone adjustments, and a SOME other suggestions.

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Y'know left foot braking is like... Racing 101, right?

Most def, rallying, F1, LMP, Super GT, forget it without some left foot braking.

Its not for daily driving, but its good for racing really responsive cars(with quick and accurate weight transfer) or where extremely fast reflexes are needed.

But even the godfather Rauno Aaltonen will advise against it unless necessary.(from one of his 80s instructional videos for Datsun\NIssan)
 
When the wheel calibrates push the gas and brake at start up.....

If only that were the case. The calibration is saved for the first load of an event such as a license test, however, the brake deadzone is reset to default upon restarting that event or going to the next.
 
This game is broken for at least two people.

From the PlayStation forums:


Its a sad day when GT5 gets shelved on its release day.

I agree that it doesn't look good when the brake indicator is always on, but then again I suspect that it could mend itself if he pushed the brake all the way down - which it doesn't look like to me. That's just a brake tap that one.

I have had similar problems in other racing games, most were easy to fix by applying 100% brake/gas & steering lock to lock, at the starting line.

Then again, his brake potmeter just might need cleaning. WD-40 does the trick. :)
 
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If you own a DFGT, I recommend looking for the squash-ball mod for the brake pedal. It works great for iRacing and I've even tried it with the TT demo and it helps modulating the brakes.

Hey whats this mod you are talking about and how often do you have to do it. I think the game is callerbrating my breaks wrong, they seem to be on slightly after breaking for a corner randomly like the last corner of a race. or second go at a licence test.
 
Aurcom, that's a problem with the hardware, not with GT5. I had the same problem with my DFGT pedals in GT5p. Logitech's design sucks, but it's so long ago I can't remember how I nodded my pedals to fix this. It's a problem with the connection between the potentiometer and the pedal and the way it's mounted. There's too much slop in the "zero" position.

You could argue that GT5 should work around sloppily designed hardware and it would be nice if it did, but if you use crappy hardware it's hardly PD's fault.

G25 is a ps3 wheel it has a clutch that was put in for Grand Turismo you whould expect it to work with GT5, since when did the G25 become crappy hardware, mines been fantastic for other games. It’s not that hard to put in wheel setting, they had 6 years to work that out. Bring on Grid 2 they know how to do it right.
 
Any fix planned for the G25 wheel's problem. Game is unplayable with this problem.

Thank you AUS_Topgear for posting with this problem and the clutch issue.

Its a mystery why Logitech hasn't pushed for specific G25/G27 support in the game. You want to reward the customer with more value not half-assed game support.

Even when Vettel is ripping around in the X1 he's using the mid-range Driving Force GT.

 
I've got a couple problems with that reasoning:

1. My hardware works with other games.
2. Advanced wheel settings are common place.

These are toys after all, and expecting mechanical perfection is ignorant.

I'd also add:

3. The Driving Force GT is an "official" Gran Turismo wheel.

You'd think Polyphony would account for quirks in an officially supported wheel, as well as make allowances for production run deviations. I'm willing to give them a little slack for Fanatec wheel support, as it's far less mainstream. Even so, what's the harm in offering suggested defaults that should work out of the box for the major wheels, with room for advanced settings for people to tune to taste, other brands, or even to allow adjustment room for new wheels that may come along later? I think it's great that PD wants GT5 to be more user friendly, but a ton of GT fans are hardcore, and the hardcore are willing to put in the work to refine their experience. I'm not as hardcore as half the guys here, and I spend my time tweaking.
 
Thank you AUS_Topgear for posting with this problem and the clutch issue.

Its a mystery why Logitech hasn't pushed for specific G25/G27 support in the game. You want to reward the customer with more value not half-assed game support.

Even when Vettel is ripping around in the X1 he's using the mid-range Driving Force GT.


How do you contact anyone to get an answer on how to get the G25 workable on this game or do i have to give up on it. It’s not an Old wheel and not a cheap one.
Can i set the dead zone by having a little break on at the start of a race? I'll try some things tonight, from what I’ve read is calibrates each race and i might be able to trick it into setting a dead zone.
 
I've dismantled the pedal assembly and used compressed air to remove dust and also applied some grease to the brake piston. This appears to have had no impact on fixing the false input issue.
 
I have no idea what they have or haven't done for GT5. But before its released I thought I'd put up some simple things the game needs to have as options.

-Adjustable dead zones for the steering and the pedals, especially the brake pedal.

I have the Driving force GT wheel, and notice that on GT5P if the brake is even slightly pressed, it registers as significant braking force and it affects the car a whole deal, on all cars. Most real cars don't behave like this, there is almost always a significant zone in the first movement of the pedal where its literally dead movement and then it gradually kicks in depending on the car.

Reason I say this is some people such as myself like to hover over the brake in certain points, and don't want minute first few possibly accidental movements of the pedal to matter much or affect the car.

-The wheel also needs to have optional very very slight adjustments for a dead zone in the centre

And now my biggest Peeve with sim racing games. PLEASE MATCH ALL "DRIVING AID" characteristics of the cars in game, to their REAL LIFE COUNTERPARTS not just slap the same attributes across all cars without a thought.

What I mean by this is I have noticed in almost Every racing sim released to date, they attempt to match driving physics and mechanics to very precise levels, and go into great effort and detail with this which is great, but then they do something baffling like implement TCS and ABS and AWS and ECS and EBD and ABS, basically any of these driver aid technologies the game has (which are based on real life implementations), evenly across ALL CARS. I have always found this is massively detrimental to the realism of the game, especially when it should be a relatively simple things to resolve at least to a basic level!

A 1980s dodge does not have the same driver aids as a modern Lancer Evo, yet the games make no distinction between these! You select a car and whatever your settings for the driving aids are that's what ANY car you drive magically now has!?
You suddenly have ABS TCS and AWS on a car that didn't even come with power steering!

It seems the developers are making no correlation to what cars actually has in real life, and just slap all these driver aids equally across all cars, when in fact these are major differences between cars which should be replicated intricately in the game, not ignored entirely.
If I had my way I would even implement minor details like for example a GTR compared to a GTR Vspec II has different driver aid characteristics, even if all the other components of the car can essentially match. It is this level of detail I want to see. It will really add life and realistic character to each car.
Also some cars allow you to turn of TCS, some don't, and some allow you to set varying degrees of driving aids and combinations, for example the Ferrari f430 has the Manettino dial, the GTR has racing normal and off for VDC, tranny, suspension .


It is really a must that the stock cars match the stock car characteristics in the game. For the sake of customisations to these attributes, since it does happen in real life, making changes to them can be done in the form of upgrades, but these should be strictly though and through and controlled to match what you would be able to realistically with a real life counterpart.

For example no matter how hard you try you cannot implement the same driving aids on a old car that you can on a modern car. There is no point just having an upgrade like (install stage 3 TCS and stage 3 ECS on just any car you want. It essentially eliminates any point to what I am proposing as it brings you back step step one again where you have the unrealistic behaviour that all cars are equal in terms of driving aids, which is not the case in real life.
It is next to impossible to implement good driving aids to cars that were not designed for it from the ground up unless you throw a lot of cash and development into it, and even then the results are crude. So you should never be able to have your Buick have radar assisted braking or anything fancy like that. Even with mods I would like to see realistic control of what can and cant be done with cars, and I think most people should be happy that the way their car is behaving in game is in harmony with what you would get if you jumped in that car in real life.

The steering feedback also needs to be finely paid attention to. Some cars have very heavy steering to them some don't. Every car I drive in Prologue feel the same in terms of force feedback?
If the car has light steering in real life I want it to have light steering in the game. If its an old car with heavy steering and no power steering I think it should be reflected in the game without the user having to change any feedback settings by guessing. If a cars steering gets lighter when its accelerating and gets nose light I want it to be reflected in the feel of the steering wheel.

Im not sure but I think the current force feedback does none of this, it is is very static.

In real life the steering wheel on some cars snaps back a lot when you let go of turned wheel and drive straight and on some it straightens up slower. Some older cars with higher profile tires and loose suspension and chassis, don't even respond to short quick movements of at all or respond later to steering input. I think all of these can be implemented in the game. They don't have to match in detail exactly all 900 cars but at least an honest attempt at trying to match such steering characteristics roughly..If the car didnt come with power steering you should have to fit it to be able to use it.

Anyway so far it looks like teh dev team are fantastic and I wish them luck. Looking forward to the game since I think even prologue is 9/10, and this looks much much better. I wonder if the dev team are taking onboard suggestions such as this and if there is any way to pass such suggestions on. 👍 I don't even know if these are the right forums to post this.

Lol when i read this back i think QFT man Q F T. Then I realize sadly, that kids hope and dreams fir the future are now crushed, and then I realize that little kid was me, now all grown up with gt5 out and angry at the world.

I wonder how 5 month ago Jr. Snake would feel would feel if i built i time machine and crushed his dreams back then. Maybe i would have saved him the heartache.
 
Thank you AUS_Topgear for posting with this problem and the clutch issue.

Its a mystery why Logitech hasn't pushed for specific G25/G27 support in the game. You want to reward the customer with more value not half-assed game support.

Even when Vettel is ripping around in the X1 he's using the mid-range Driving Force GT.


And using his left foot for breaking.
It has to mean something, right?
;)
 
Guide to Increase Logitech G25 Brake Pedal Resistance
Below is a confirmed mod for the G25 to decrease brake pedal sensitivity allowing the driver to rest his/her foot on the pedal. This also appears to remove false/ghost braking in which the game detects pedal braking when your foot is not on the pedal.

This mod may work for a G27; if someone can confirm I will edit the guide accordingly. If someone else has already created such a guide, please ignore everything below :dunce:

Tools
3/16 Hex Key
3/32 Hex Key
Philips Screwdriver No.1
Wrench
Dielectric Grease (optional)

Parts
Washer (between 14/16 and 15/16 in diameter)
or, a quarter (Canadian preferred, American may work if forced?)

Cost
Less than $1

Time
Less than 20 minutes

Difficulty
2 out of 5

Step 1: Dismantle the pedal assembly
Nutshell: Unscrew all silver Phillips screws underneath the pedal assembly and the 4 black screws holding the brake pedal in place. Use 3/32 Hex Key to remove the pedal plates and the top cover slips off, exposing the pedal cylinders.
Detail: Read this or watch this.
IMPORTANT: Wires attach all pedals and pedal base, be careful.

Step 2: Dismantle brake pedal cylinder
Nutshell: Use 3/16 Hex Key and wrench to remove Allen bolt at the base of the brake pedal cylinder. The spring can now be removed from the cylinder.
Detail: Read this.

14m4d4j.jpg


Step 3: Replace spring or insert washer
Nutshell: By placing a washer/quarter in the cylinder, you are compressing the spring by almost 1/2", thus making the pedal stiffer. You could use a replacement spring if you are able to find one of the correct size and resistance.
Detail: Read this for more detail on replacing the spring.

Left-to-right: Spring, lower brake cylinder, American quarter, Canadian quarter, washer
2u480so.jpg


Canadian quarter perfectly fits in the cylinder with no force required.
16hp2mb.jpg


IMPORTANT
: American quarter appears to be a hair too large, forcing it in may work or may compromise cylinder shape. Try at your own risk!


Step 4: Reassemble brake cylinder and pedal assembly
Nutshell: humpty dumpty
Detail: Apply grease to cylinder, spring, and washer if you have concerns over friction or removed grease during modification process.

Questions or Problems?
Please post below for support from the community.
 
Hi to everyone, i'm new here.
I have the same problem with the brake pedal of my DFGT. Luckly i can "unpress" that by pulling up the pedal with my foot's toes, but it's still quite unplayable.
There is any solution to resolve it like g25? Do you think PD is going to release a deadzone patch to solve it? (consider that the DFGT is the OFFICIAL gt wheel, and i read online that many have the same problem)
 
Hi to everyone, i'm new here.
I have the same problem with the brake pedal of my DFGT. Luckly i can "unpress" that by pulling up the pedal with my foot's toes, but it's still quite unplayable.
There is any solution to resolve it like g25? Do you think PD is going to release a deadzone patch to solve it? (consider that the DFGT is the OFFICIAL gt wheel, and i read online that many have the same problem)

Apparently the DFGT pedals are like the DFP pedals, and people have been talking aout modding those for 5 years! https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43686

If you find a solution or better thread, please post.
 
I've never had any problems with my DFGT brake pedal, and I've had it for 2 years now. Maybe you guys are too rough or something...?

And about left foot braking, if you heel-toe on the brake, it's essentially the same thing. They both help manage braking in corner entry while maintaining engine RPM's to get a better corner exit. Although, heel-toe is more commonly used for downshift rev-matching, but like one user said:

yeah sure, heel/toe, rev matching, left foot braking, it's all part of racing since, well forever.
 
I have had the same brake petal problem (Logitech MOMO Racing Force). Aswell as a very annoying wheel alignment problem.
 
As I posted in another thread, I'm having issues with my PWTS Throttle. Its never quite at 100%. It flickers at the top ever so slightly, but its enough to kill my times. It made licenses near impossible.

A pedal deadzone would be great. I wish it could be added, the lack of wheel support is laughable.
 
I'm having difficulties with the DFGT brake pedal always being "ON", AFAIK, the only way to "adjust" the dead zone for the brake is to slightly depress it during calibration phase (when the wheel auto-adjusts it's self).

You can also take the thing apart and apply a hardware "fix", but I don't want to void the warantee on my new toy!
 
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