- 2,623
- Pompey
- CyKosis1973
As per above. I had to tuck 33kg under the front bumper of my stripped Clio V6 to 50/50 it...
{Cy}
PS - Drives even better now, as if it didn't drive well stock anyway...
GT5Calc 2.3b
- Thread starter Litzner
- 119 comments
- 34,816 views
As per above. I had to tuck 33kg under the front bumper of my stripped Clio V6 to 50/50 it...
{Cy}
PS - Drives even better now, as if it didn't drive well stock anyway...
- 829
Litzner
I find 73mph to be close to maximum cornering speed on SS tires for cars around 500PP, most probably it's Close to the Compound limit. Hope it's useful.
Its been rather quiet in here... no reply in 5 weeks! 
I quess you wont be spending any of your time into GT5calc because of this... just so you know, ive been using GT5calc a lot. Its great for getting a stable 'base' to work with when tuning a car.
Thank you for creating this great tool! 👍
I quess you wont be spending any of your time into GT5calc because of this... just so you know, ive been using GT5calc a lot. Its great for getting a stable 'base' to work with when tuning a car.
Thank you for creating this great tool! 👍
- 904
- York Virginia
- chilybee
I think it is a wonderful thing you have done. My thought for correcting screen with overloaded values (I.E 0 front/ 31 rear spring rate) is to half the value, and distribute to the front. Same for bound/rebound and tortion bars.
As for camber and toe, start at .5 front and rear, then work your way through. To find all the figures you need, maybe these links will help trace down actual numbers. Have no idea how you would calc camber and toe without actually driving the car. Will be very different on each track. General settings might work, but testing may be the only true way to find it.
I hope you find enough time and information to add more to your application. you did an excellent job so far.
http://gt3europe.com/cars.php?market=false&key=6
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
As for camber and toe, start at .5 front and rear, then work your way through. To find all the figures you need, maybe these links will help trace down actual numbers. Have no idea how you would calc camber and toe without actually driving the car. Will be very different on each track. General settings might work, but testing may be the only true way to find it.
I hope you find enough time and information to add more to your application. you did an excellent job so far.
http://gt3europe.com/cars.php?market=false&key=6
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
- 35
- Daytona Beach, FL
- KAWIGREEN23
I use the calculator to get all of my suspension baseline tunes and it is spot on for most cars. Are there any new developments, such as ride height, toe, or roll bars? How about entering a suspension setting, then getting optimal aero settings?
- 240
- Traverse City, MI, USA
- Priest8
Ride Height - I don't see a particularly feasible way to calculate a estimated optimal ride height, as that depends more deeply on the track then anything else in GT5. Put that together with all the other variables, and differing ride height options between cars, and it gets rather convoluted.
Toe - This is something I have been looking into, as I think I could get some type of rudimentary baseline numbers for different drive-train/weight distribution cars. Although I have not looked into this much, as there seems to been limited interest in this project as of late.
Roll Bars - Roll bar calculations were implemented in 2.1b and enhanced in 2.3b.
- 17
- Austin, Texas
I used 7-zip.exe from 7-zip.org which, is an excellent open source program (IMHO). As best as I can tell is it does everything that RAR.exe can and it's free or you can make a donation to receive support, if you wish.
RAR stands for Roshal ARchive. It is a proprietary archive file format that supports data compression, error recovery, and file spanning. It was developed by a Russian software engineer (Roshal is his first name) and is currently licensed by win.rar.
You can download the RAR.exe program at CNET (safe download site) but it's $29 or you can Google win.rar or RAR and take your pick of sites to download the program from for $29. RAR can uncompress a lot of different compressed file types so it is a good program, too.
Not sure if WinZip works with .rar files, but it might.
This is a great app. I have tried it on a few cars now and overall it improves the character of the car. However, on corner entry and mid corner the car is a bit sluggish. My take is that is because of the huge weight transfer that is being allowed by the low spring rates and weak anti-roll.
At any rate I'm really glad that you put the work into this app!
Keep up the good work on developing it.
As with what has been mentioned before, you should try to make an ipad/iphone and andriod app for it.
At any rate I'm really glad that you put the work into this app!
Keep up the good work on developing it.
As with what has been mentioned before, you should try to make an ipad/iphone and andriod app for it.
I've found an issue with one car in particular. The Mazda 787B Race Car, when using your calculator there are issues:
Weight : 830 kg
Wheelbase : 2662 mm
Speed : 70 mph
Front Distribution : 49%
Front Downforce : 55
Rear Downforce : 80
Engine Posistion : Mid
Drivetrain : RWD
Stiffness Setting : 30
Front Spring Rate : 11.5
Rear Spring Rate : 23.4
Front Damper Extension : 5
Rear Damper Extension : 11
Front Damper Compression : 4
Rear Damper Compression : 9
Front Anti-Roll Bar : 2
Rear Anti-Roll Bar : 2
some outputs exceed the min or max values allowed. This ended up being the case for all levels of stiffness.
I just thought it would be good for you to know.
Weight : 830 kg
Wheelbase : 2662 mm
Speed : 70 mph
Front Distribution : 49%
Front Downforce : 55
Rear Downforce : 80
Engine Posistion : Mid
Drivetrain : RWD
Stiffness Setting : 30
Front Spring Rate : 11.5
Rear Spring Rate : 23.4
Front Damper Extension : 5
Rear Damper Extension : 11
Front Damper Compression : 4
Rear Damper Compression : 9
Front Anti-Roll Bar : 2
Rear Anti-Roll Bar : 2
some outputs exceed the min or max values allowed. This ended up being the case for all levels of stiffness.
I just thought it would be good for you to know.
- 105
- Netherlands
- svennieking
speed 70mph ?
lol! change the speed to 300 or something in that way
lol! change the speed to 300 or something in that way
That doesn't help, lol. 70mph was just an example but I have tried many different speeds, DF and stiffness input still with the same problem.
- 35
- Daytona Beach, FL
- KAWIGREEN23
From my experience with the calculator, it seems to me that front spring rate is affected by the speed value and the rear rate is affected by rear downforce settings.
If you increase the speed setting, then you have to make the stiffness number lower to get a base tune. Sometimes, you won't need a rear downforce setting at max. What you can do is set the front to max and the rear to a matching value (or to front value +10 to have some adjustability) to get within the GT5 range. At that point, adding spoiler will make the rear more planted, but increase understeer. I find that the difference between a value equal to the front max downforce (ex. 35 front and 35 rear) and max rear downforce (ex. 35 front and 60 rear) is usually adding .4 to .6 to the rear springs. Damper settings don't normally change. The idea is that as you add more DF to the rear, you have to increase spring stiffness to keep the back end from being pushed down too low (which also binds the shocks and decreases their effective travel, in real life).
You have to play with the speed setting and stiffness until you get figures within range. Think about this, as speed goes up, then the force on the shocks and springs also goes up. True race cars will have a much higher load on the suspension in cornering than any street car will ever encounter. That being said, think of the speed setting more as a unit of force exerted on the suspension in a turn.
Bump up the speed setting to 130 and back off the stiffness to 25. That should be within range.
Also remember to check the "mph" button on speed. Sometimes I forget and leave it at kph, which screws up the settings (1 mph = 1.6 kph, so 70 kph will be effectively calculating to be 43.5 mph which would throw the settings off the scale).
Am I on the right track here, Litzner?
If you increase the speed setting, then you have to make the stiffness number lower to get a base tune. Sometimes, you won't need a rear downforce setting at max. What you can do is set the front to max and the rear to a matching value (or to front value +10 to have some adjustability) to get within the GT5 range. At that point, adding spoiler will make the rear more planted, but increase understeer. I find that the difference between a value equal to the front max downforce (ex. 35 front and 35 rear) and max rear downforce (ex. 35 front and 60 rear) is usually adding .4 to .6 to the rear springs. Damper settings don't normally change. The idea is that as you add more DF to the rear, you have to increase spring stiffness to keep the back end from being pushed down too low (which also binds the shocks and decreases their effective travel, in real life).
You have to play with the speed setting and stiffness until you get figures within range. Think about this, as speed goes up, then the force on the shocks and springs also goes up. True race cars will have a much higher load on the suspension in cornering than any street car will ever encounter. That being said, think of the speed setting more as a unit of force exerted on the suspension in a turn.
Bump up the speed setting to 130 and back off the stiffness to 25. That should be within range.
Also remember to check the "mph" button on speed. Sometimes I forget and leave it at kph, which screws up the settings (1 mph = 1.6 kph, so 70 kph will be effectively calculating to be 43.5 mph which would throw the settings off the scale).
Am I on the right track here, Litzner?
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- 240
- Traverse City, MI, USA
- Priest8
Hey! There has been a bunch of posts in here... GTPlanet has not been notifying me by e-mail...
Crazygst - With that particular car, I would try a Speed setting of around 90mph, and a stiffness of 24-25. I have not looked specifically at this car, but there are some cars, that GT5 does not have a wide enough range in for to apply the settings it wants. In those case, I just get it as close as possible, and try it out from there.
Kawigreen23 - All the spring rates, front and rear, are based on how much "weight" is getting applied to them, then modified by the navigating speed of the corner. So front spring weight is based off of the weight, the weight distribution, downforce, and speed of the car.
The purpose of the speed setting is to try to sync up the oscillation of the front and rear suspension. Lets say you hit a bump at 20mph, then the same bump at 80mph, the suspension rates of the front and rear would have to be closer at 80, then at 20, to get both the front and rear suspension to finish their oscillations at the same time. Getting a cars front and rear suspension to finish processing a bump at the same time is key in properly balancing a car.
So in general, you want to set the speed at a speed where you are navigate the lion's share of your corners at, which will be different for not only each car, but also for each track. Say Daytona, yo would want something around 200mph or more, but at Laguna Seca you may want around 70mph for the same car.
For Downforce, what these numbers are doing is essentially adding extra weight to the car, but not increasing weight transfer, be it side to side, or front to rear. How much "weight" depends on Downforce*Speed. So again, speed is crucial here, if your speed numbers do not accurately represent the speed you are navigating most your corners at, the tune can come out very lop sided. You very well may run into a track, that has many low speed corners, and one very high speed corner, in this situation you need to find the best balance between the corners for your driving style and the car.
I have considered adding in some code, where if certain values were out of what would be considered a acceptable range (say speed at 10 mph, or 350mph), that the program would automatically fix the numbers to put them in range, or if the suspension values came out too soft for any car in the game to use, it would automatically bump up the stiffness until it was in a predefined range, but I don't want to take away a person's ability to "play" with the calculations.
Crazygst - With that particular car, I would try a Speed setting of around 90mph, and a stiffness of 24-25. I have not looked specifically at this car, but there are some cars, that GT5 does not have a wide enough range in for to apply the settings it wants. In those case, I just get it as close as possible, and try it out from there.
Kawigreen23 - All the spring rates, front and rear, are based on how much "weight" is getting applied to them, then modified by the navigating speed of the corner. So front spring weight is based off of the weight, the weight distribution, downforce, and speed of the car.
The purpose of the speed setting is to try to sync up the oscillation of the front and rear suspension. Lets say you hit a bump at 20mph, then the same bump at 80mph, the suspension rates of the front and rear would have to be closer at 80, then at 20, to get both the front and rear suspension to finish their oscillations at the same time. Getting a cars front and rear suspension to finish processing a bump at the same time is key in properly balancing a car.
So in general, you want to set the speed at a speed where you are navigate the lion's share of your corners at, which will be different for not only each car, but also for each track. Say Daytona, yo would want something around 200mph or more, but at Laguna Seca you may want around 70mph for the same car.
For Downforce, what these numbers are doing is essentially adding extra weight to the car, but not increasing weight transfer, be it side to side, or front to rear. How much "weight" depends on Downforce*Speed. So again, speed is crucial here, if your speed numbers do not accurately represent the speed you are navigating most your corners at, the tune can come out very lop sided. You very well may run into a track, that has many low speed corners, and one very high speed corner, in this situation you need to find the best balance between the corners for your driving style and the car.
I have considered adding in some code, where if certain values were out of what would be considered a acceptable range (say speed at 10 mph, or 350mph), that the program would automatically fix the numbers to put them in range, or if the suspension values came out too soft for any car in the game to use, it would automatically bump up the stiffness until it was in a predefined range, but I don't want to take away a person's ability to "play" with the calculations.
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- 35
- Daytona Beach, FL
- KAWIGREEN23
Is there a way to add in a max and min value for spring rates and shock numbers that will keep settings within a usable range for each car but still allow play with the stiffness and speed settings? Kind of like a simple max and min limiter?
Also, I noticed something else...
The settings work very well with street based racecars, but not so much with pure racers like the FGT and other ultralight racers (below 800kg). The front setting just doesn't get stiff enough to be within the minimum front spring rate without the rear being out of range or the speed setting unusually high (like 220mph).
What advice on the program do you have to deal with those kind of cars?
Also, I noticed something else...
The settings work very well with street based racecars, but not so much with pure racers like the FGT and other ultralight racers (below 800kg). The front setting just doesn't get stiff enough to be within the minimum front spring rate without the rear being out of range or the speed setting unusually high (like 220mph).
What advice on the program do you have to deal with those kind of cars?
- 240
- Traverse City, MI, USA
- Priest8
I usually don't have much difficulty with most pure race cars. Just have to make sure you have all the variables right, down-force etc. I would have to take a look at the FGT again to see what I did for it. When I run into a car were I can get both the rear and front in range at the same time, I just try to get it as close as I can, and start tuning from there.
As for limiting numbers, I probably could set some limits, the problem is, different cars have different min and max settings.
As for limiting numbers, I probably could set some limits, the problem is, different cars have different min and max settings.
- 35
- Daytona Beach, FL
- KAWIGREEN23
Thanks for the inside info, Litzner. The explanations are helping me get a better idea on how the program works and what the output means in the context of GT5.
I'd also like to see some of the calculation parameters you used for the FGT so I can get an idea of what speed settings you use to compare with mine.
I'd also like to see some of the calculation parameters you used for the FGT so I can get an idea of what speed settings you use to compare with mine.
- 1
- QLD
- Mypetcorpse
I dont know if this has already been answered or if it is a noobish question, but why does this not take into account the ride height?
- 35
- Daytona Beach, FL
- KAWIGREEN23
Thinking about doing another calculator for GT6?
