GTPlanet Scale model thread

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Picked up the 1986 Paris-Dakar winner (#186) Porsche 959 by TSM. I got is used on ebay for a decent price, but the car isn’t in the best shape. It arrived covered in dust (seller claimed it was stored in a cabinet, but obviously not a dust free one) and the applied Rothmans decals are brittle and chipping off and the box packing doesn’t seem original. I cleaned it up pretty good, but it’s not really up to my standards. Not too pleased, but my fault I suppose for not looking closely at the pictures. Seller never claimed it was in good shape either. Lesson learned, don’t jump on a hard to find model at a low price.

That said, I picked up a brand new one as well, the second place car, #185 which should arrive soon. I dunno if I will keep both but I don’t think I can sell the #186 for the price I paid.
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MSZ
Got this a long time ago, but haven't taken any pics of it until today:

In your opinion (this can be towards all y'all actually), speaking of Dollar-to-quality ratio, which of the following brands would you say holds the best value? Maisto, GT Spirit, or Top Speed?
 
In your opinion (this can be towards all y'all actually), speaking of Dollar-to-quality ratio, which of the following brands would you say holds the best value? Maisto, GT Spirit, or Top Speed?

GT Spirit and it isn't even close. Maisto models never hold their value at all, and Top Speed releases in general have too many flaws to be true collector items.

But for Ford GT, AA and TSM are making opening versions so those two will be the most valuable of all.
 
MSZ
GT Spirit and it isn't even close. Maisto models never hold their value at all, and Top Speed releases in general have too many flaws to be true collector items.

But for Ford GT, AA and TSM are making opening versions so those two will be the most valuable of all.

Now that you mentioned AA. I think AR's doing it too. They seem to have a thing for doing everything AA is doing.
 
I am probably going to get the TSM Ford GT when it releases, unless the plastic AA version is better. Can't recall if AR is doing it, but if they do it probably will be the best one lol...
Anyway a couple supercar group pics, might take more random group pics soon:


 
Let's get some pics in here!
Will do! Once the second car arrives I’ll get pics of both cars together. Although one car will be missing the Rothmans decals.

Actually, to anyone who knows, how do I apply decals to resin models? Would it be the same as applying decals to, say, a 1/24 model kit car? I have the Rothmans decals to apply to the 959 and an SC/RS I have.
 
Will do! Once the second car arrives I’ll get pics of both cars together. Although one car will be missing the Rothmans decals.

Actually, to anyone who knows, how do I apply decals to resin models? Would it be the same as applying decals to, say, a 1/24 model kit car? I have the Rothmans decals to apply to the 959 and an SC/RS I have.

If you're dealing with Waterslides, you should be able to go ahead without any ssues.
 
Will do! Once the second car arrives I’ll get pics of both cars together. Although one car will be missing the Rothmans decals.

Actually, to anyone who knows, how do I apply decals to resin models? Would it be the same as applying decals to, say, a 1/24 model kit car? I have the Rothmans decals to apply to the 959 and an SC/RS I have.

Some Sparks models came with the waterslide sheet and you have to put them on the model yourself, and yes it's as same as applying decals on 1/24 models.
 
Thanks for the help. I'm a bit hesitant to apply them just yet with the fear of messing them up. I've only just recently started building some 1/24 models so I'm still learning how to do the waterslide decals.
 
I'm still learning how to do the waterslide decals.

Unless you've got fingernails I highly suggest making use of tiny tools for precision handling of small thin things . We often call them tweezers. Reverse tweezers are even better.

Just remember that with waterslide, water is the middleman between the bonding of decal to body. When the middleman leaves, the bond is created, but if he returns, he separates the two. This means that if you screw up the placement of a decal, drop some water on it (well technically in between the decal and body) to lift it back up. If you find yourself using too much water that it' has lifted the decal too far from the body to hold, get something absorbent like the edge of a paper towel, touch the water, let the towel suck it up and watch that decal stick to the body.
 
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Unless you've got fingernails I highly suggest making use of tiny tools for precision handling of small thin things . We often call them tweezers. Reverse tweezers are even better.

Just remember that with waterslide, water is the middleman between the bonding of decal to body. When the middleman leaves, the bond is created, but if he returns, he separates the two. This means that if you screw up the placement of a decal, drop some water on it (well technically in between the decal and body) to lift it back up. If you find yourself using too much water that it' has lifted the decal too far from the body to hold, get something absorbent like the edge of a paper towel, touch the water, let the towel suck it up and watch that decal stick to the body.
Although I am not familiar with these so called "tweezers", thank you for the tips. :lol:

I've been practicing a bit. My fear is ripping a decal either transferring it from the sheet to the model, or moving it on the model itself. Just have to master the liquid amounts as you say and just be careful. I've been using Micro-set and Micro-sol as well. Applying to a kit is one thing, but to an expensive resin model is another. :nervous:
 
If you're using decent quality material, it won't rip that easily unless for some reason you're pulling at the decal in two different directions.

One of the easiest ways I've torn decals is if I needed to nudge it fractions of a millimeter, and having too much water makes it slips entirely out of position. Basically at this point I have to use just enough water to coax it in the right direction with my finger with light one-directional rubs. The struggle is that the water gets absorbed by your finger with each contact.
 
So... I bought a set of USSR license plates (1959-1982 standard) to decorate my Soviet cars.

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Already applied some of them:

1959 GAZ M21I Volga
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1973 Izh Kombi (left) and 1982 Izh 2715 (right)
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And that blue truck on the background is my another purchase, a 1970 MAZ 503A.
I'm not a fan of dumptrucks, but I couldn't resist the 50% discount.

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These mirrors... gotta do something about them...

This MAZ also reminded me of a Soviet-made model I had when I was a little kid. It looked like this:
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It's been produced in the '80s and it's pretty expensive now - the sellers want around 5900 rub (over $100) for it. However, even if my Soviet MAZ survived, it would likely be ruined by zinc pest.
 
D&G is known for their over-the-top stylized exotic cars, but oh my word:

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does this highlighter orange even look accurate though?

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This is TSM:

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Maybe just a tad off? Maybe just the overexposure? Marlboro's a red unless I'm mistaken.


edit: Cough/Choke... 237,000 JPY.
 
^ That colour is amazing. 👍

I recently picked up the Otto-models 1/18 Celica ST165, and also the 1/18 Aston Martin Vulcan by Frontiart Avanstyle.

I've been waiting for a decent ST165 for years now. Otto released this one earlier in the year, but it completely flew under the radar. I didn't even know about it until they were sold out (2000 produced), so had to order this one for an inflated price on ebay. Still, I'm impressed by the quality... They got the dimensions of the car perfect, unlike the Topmarques version with it's squashed roofline. I'm loving these otto models. :)

The Vulcan I bought on sale from the Aston Martin design shop in London. When I arrived home and unpacked it, I was kind of lost for words on how amazing this thing looked. The paintwork is amazing... It looks like a green with white pearl under certain lighting conditions, which isn't captured very well in these pictures. For the price, Frontiart Avanstyle is the best I've come across. I'm pretty sure I'll only be buying closed resin from now on because of the detail, and the perfectly scaled body panel gaps. It's made me fall in love with model cars again.

These are the favourites of my collection so far. I just ordered a blue Frontiart Avanstyle Vanquish S because I was so blown away by the Vulcan's quality.

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Finally I found this thread... Decided to go bigger on my collection (1/64-1/43) a while back, so I'm on a full 1/18 search sometimes ;). All are Maisto models, but I don't care ;D

1st: The Viper (Wish it was red though)
2nd: The Cobra R (Best mustang ever ♥)
3rd: The CLK GTR (most recent, best GT1 car ever ♥). Also, I really love Maisto went for matte black rather than the original silver, makes it 100% better (on the street version) ♥

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