Had my first drive with a wheel........wow

The key it´s being smooth and progressive with the pedals and wheel, it´s like using a clutch but in this case for acelerator and brake.

Mark and learn the breaking points start slow breaking earlier and lift from break smooth, acelerator it´s the oposite make a small pause in middle of the kurbs and be gentle and be progressive while acelerating, and off course try to do all this while turning gentle whitout settle off the car.

After you learn the reactions and limits it´s more easy but first you have to start slow and be progressive increasing lap times, if you want to be fast all the time you´ll miss the point of how to train your brain and muscle memory.

You must learn each track every time theres time i need a week of 1h training to be able to make decent times, it´s all about pratice and patience.
 
NevilleNobody
Appreciate that.

I know the driving line, i know where to brake, I just cannot do the inputs to make it happen.

Third biggest issue is brakes, i cannot "feel' them. I have weak ABS on but cannot feel when they are about to lock up like i can with a pad. I cannot feel understeer at all.

Second biggest issue is lifting off the brake, I am getting a lot of lift oversteer but it is very unpredictable. I dial in front bias to the brake balance, this helps but still seems so damn random.

Biggest issue is the steering, I try to be real gentle and not turn too much but the car doesn't react, i turn a bit more then it goes too far, then i try to correct and I am seesawing all over the track.

i will post a replay.
Click to expand...
Hi! Why weak setting on the ABS?
I suggest going full abs and practice a lot of powerful 'slam' braking in corner approach until you find the right braking point(s). Decelerate the car enough before gentle off-brake and steering And, as you probably know, use easier race cars with harder tyre compounds when practicing the fundamentals.
 
Sorry if you already know this. But one tip
Keep scanning ahead for the furthest point you can see and your brain will figure out your braking points and steering

Do you drive IRL?
 
NevilleNobody
I cannot feel understeer at all.
Click to expand...
This sounds like a settings problem, given there's a thread where people are complaining they can't turn the understeer effect off. They'll thank you for telling them how to not feel it, if you can work out what you've done to achieve that!
 
John G
Sorry if you already know this. But one tip
Keep scanning ahead for the furthest point you can see and your brain will figure out your braking points and steering

Do you drive IRL?
Click to expand...

Yes, with some track experience too. I'm no senna but I am am extremely confident steerer, my rev matching and heel and toe is sloppy but I can point the thing, find the grip limit.

I ran a 2.24.8 at spa yesterday, I just did a 2.22.0 with optimal 2.21.4 with the pad.
 
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What settings are you using?

I have strength 3, sensitivity 10. This way you can feel as much as possible (within the realms of GTS feedback which TBH isn't great) without fighting the wheel too hard, and also avoiding clipping (overloading the wheel)
 
NevilleNobody
I ran a 2.24.8 at spa yesterday, I just did a 2.22.0 with optimal 2.21.4 with the pad.
Click to expand...
NevilleNobody
Make that a 21.1 with an optimal 21.0.
Click to expand...
I've done 19.1 with the wheel, had a go with the controller and couldn't get under 24 after 5 laps. Eau Rouge / Raidillon is particularly horrendous with a controller, just couldn't get the car to change direction in the right way, and was about 20mph slower exiting. Over the whole lap it's just so much easier to accurately position the car with the wheel, as it goes where you want rather than having to provide your inputs well in advance to allow for the time the game takes to turn the wheel for you with the controller stick. Maybe you've got so used to having to steer in advance that you're still doing it with the wheel? As said above, a video of your controller lap and your wheel lap would help people to help you.
 
I got used playseat and attached G29 into it with h-pattern gearstick and all 3 pedals. I went to test Nürburgring 24h track (combination of both tracklayouts) with my 5 speed Ford Mustang Mach 1 (1971). I did set all driving aids off and hit on track. 9min 58secs on first run. It was fun.

When you get wheel, next you have to get driving seat. Fun is back again. :D
 
Pigems
Why are you heel’n’toe’ing? Try using both feet, there is no need to heel n toe in this game at all. Also you want your ABS on default if speed is the main goal. Keep at it man, nothing worth doing is ever easy!! :cheers:
Click to expand...
I think he was just saying that IRL he's done track days, can h&t etc so is a reasonably skilled driver.

But agreed, just need to keep at it
 
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NevilleNobody
Yes, with some track experience too. I'm no senna but I am am extremely confident steerer, my rev matching and heel and toe is sloppy but I can point the thing, find the grip limit.

I ran a 2.24.8 at spa yesterday, I just did a 2.22.0 with optimal 2.21.4 with the pad.
Click to expand...


I think you kinda have well intentioned people here chomping at the bit to do their level best to help ya out. But without video your thread does become whiny.
 
Pigems
Why are you heel’n’toe’ing? Try using both feet, there is no need to heel n toe in this game at all. :cheers:
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LOL real life, in real life. And to be fair, I am TERRIBLE at it.

breeminator
Over the whole lap it's just so much easier to accurately position the car with the wheel, as it goes where you want rather than having to provide your inputs well in advance to allow for the time the game takes to turn the wheel for you with the controller stick. Maybe you've got so used to having to steer in advance that you're still doing it with the wheel?
Click to expand...

This is a REALLY interesting comment. Firstly, I use the D-pad, long story but I just do so don't judge. But secondly, what you describe, that delay, the driving by remote, is what I am feeling with the wheel. It feels slower than the pad to react to my inputs, like I need to plan ahead. For Radillion, i swing hard left, lift for a split second, like an eye blink, then throw it right with the pad. My speed at the yellow penalty lines is 252 KMH with TC2.

Groundfish
I think you kinda have well intentioned people here chomping at the bit to do their level best to help ya out. But without video your thread does become whiny.
Click to expand...

Agreed, i am extremely time poor but will try and do two cleanish laps (I am never really super accurate) with both input devices and post them here.
 
If you play on a TV put the tv on game mode so delay it´s reduced.

Other thing that it´s very diferent from the DS4 it´s when you lose the control of the car, it´s a lot more easier to recover using the DS4, when using a wheel you must act faster in order to be able to recover the car, when i say react doesnt mean you have to start making inputs like crazy, normally it´s the oposite, train your awarness visually so if you if the car start to rotate to fast you must react and normally the best way it´s to lift the foot from acelerator and be smooth with steering inputs and while the car it´s sliding you keep the foot off until it settles and wheel inputs must be ponderated.

Playing on DS4 it´s more easy in the way you can make more mistakes and more ample moves whitout having very big influence in car reaction.

It´s all about praticing but it´s lot more fun after you understant and learn how to do it right, knowning how to drive in RL helps in the basic stuff also
 
Maybe try reducing the DoR on your wheel to make it more reactive.

Also i would think on the D-pad, being a digital switch, the game slows down your input. So you hit left, and the game ramps up your input to some predefined slope. The game therefore to a large extent is setting your turn in and weight transfer. (Im guessing here, but would be amazed if it went to 100% immediately).

With the wheel, it's all you, you have to work out how to load up the steering.
 
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John G
Maybe try reducing the DoR on your wheel to make it more reactive.

Also i would think on the D-pad, being a digital switch, the game slows down your input. So you hit left, and the game ramps up your input to some predefined slope. The game therefore to a large extent is setting your turn in and weight transfer. (Im guessing here, but would be amazed if it went to 100% immediately). With the wheel, it's all you, you have to work out how to load up the steering.
Click to expand...

My guess is you've nailed it and i just cannot adapt.
 
John G
Also i would think on the D-pad, being a digital switch, the game slows down your input. So you hit left, and the game ramps up your input to some predefined slope. The game therefore to a large extent is setting your turn in and weight transfer. (Im guessing here, but would be amazed if it went to 100% immediately).

With the wheel, it's all you, you have to work out how to load up the steering.
Click to expand...
Not just with the D-Pad, even the ministick does that. If you go into options in race or race lobby, you can turn the DS4 control sensitivity up which reduces the smoothing and speeds up the response, but I'm not sure you can turn the smoothing off altogether (and wouldn't want to if you're driving with a d-pad). Similarly, when you release the d-pad / ministick, the game smoothly moves the steering to centre, it doesn't snap to centre.

When driving with a wheel you don't get that smoothing, the game responds pretty much instantly to wherever the wheel is pointed. The smoothness has to come from the driver instead of the software. If you're moving the steering wheel too quickly at speed, the car's slow response will be understeer. Jerking to near full lock at high speed turns the front wheels a lot but barely turns the car at all, the front wheels just slide. Since it's not the real world with g-forces you can feel, you'll need to use a combination of tyre noise and the hints the force feedback are giving you to judge what the front wheels are doing.
 
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The_Tullster
Not just with the D-Pad, even the ministick does that. If you go into options in race or race lobby, you can turn the DS4 control sensitivity up which reduces the smoothing and speeds up the response, but I'm not sure you can turn the smoothing off altogether (and wouldn't want to if you're driving with a d-pad). Similarly, when you release the d-pad / ministick, the game smoothly moves the steering to centre, it doesn't snap to centre.

When driving with a wheel you don't get that smoothing, the game responds pretty much instantly to wherever the wheel is pointed. The smoothness has to come from the driver instead of the software. If you're moving the steering wheel too quickly at speed, the car's slow response will be understeer. Jerking to near full lock at high speed turns the front wheels a lot but barely turns the car at all, the front wheels just slide. Since it's not the real world with g-forces you can feel, you'll need to use a combination of tyre noise and the hints the force feedback are giving you to judge what the front wheels are doing.
Click to expand...

Y really good explanation, also i did notice in the exit of the corners that, it´s very easy to bin the car using the wheel, i mean it´s in the small details that we have to work, when you exit a corner using the wheel even after you get the feeling of it you must force your brain to adapt every time you start to play.
It´s hard to explain cause my english it´s not the best, it´s more easy to lose the control of the car cause first your using more parts of the body and need a lot more cordination, exiting a corner in a wheel you must start to rotate the wheel smoth in the oposite direction of the kurbs while you lift the brake smooth and press the acelerator.
You dont realise that cause your intention it´s to make the tragetory and so you keep the wheel in same position or even worst you tend to turn in the direction of the kurb and acelerate and than you´ll been it.
After you understand all that small details you´ll be able to do all that fast and smash boot brake and acelerator when need it has long has you undersrtand how the precision and beahvior of the wheel works compared to using the DS4.

Off course there are a lot of diferent situations that need other kind of attention but first try understand all this small details.., pratice it´s your best way, make slow and smooth inputs that´s the only way your brain will "record" and cordinate your members, if you try to rush and be fast all the time you´ll not understand what your doing wrong.

Like people asked if you share a replay for shure will be more easy to help.
 
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Sorry no chance to record a lap last night, by the time I jumped on i only had a bit of time to race, time is my enemy.

Re. the controller settings, yep first thing i did when playing the game was to increase to 7 and wish it went to 10 :)
 
NevilleNobody
I ran a 2.24.8 at spa yesterday
Click to expand...

That’s better than me right now and I’ve been playing with the wheel longer. It took me over a month to get used to it as I’ve mentioned before. I thought I couldn’t adapt either. Now I’m faster than what I would be on the controller. I now can’t use a controller worth jack lol.

Try this setting : Torque 10, Sensitivity 1. It works wonders for me. I feel my car do everything. If you are struggling to turn it due to force, dial down the torque.

Also as mentioned, you should keep your ABS on default.
 
Trone_Colby
Torque 10, Sensitivity 1.
Click to expand...

Curiosity is killing me enough to try that out. It screams clipping with 10 torque but with such a low sensitivity, it shouldn't feel like it's on 10. Dunno if I'm thinking it wrong but there shouldn't be as much clipping with your flip flopped settings. Definitely radical.

I've been sat on 3-6 for the last few months. I liked the kick from my usual 10 sensitivity but not all feedback needs a reaction from my wheel. Not sure if this is the case exactly but it felt like I was reacting to the wheel with unnecessary inputs and over ruling what I was actually seeing.
 
kilesa4568
Curiosity is killing me enough to try that out. It screams clipping with 10 torque but with such a low sensitivity, it shouldn't feel like it's on 10. Dunno if I'm thinking it wrong but there shouldn't be as much clipping with your flip flopped settings. Definitely radical.

I've been sat on 3-6 for the last few months. I liked the kick from my usual 10 sensitivity but not all feedback needs a reaction from my wheel. Not sure if this is the case exactly but it felt like I was reacting to the wheel with unnecessary inputs and over ruling what I was actually seeing.
Click to expand...

Its all down to personal preference. I used to run 5/10. I tried 10/1 out of curiosity and been shaving .5 to 2 seconds off my laptime. Whatever works.
 
Race with whatever controller you want. I continually get crushed by a couple of guys using controllers, so using a wheel doesn't necessarily make you faster. Therefore, just use what is fun and if that isn't the wheel then so what.

The major reason I got the wheel wasn't for more immersion, it was just to help ease the rsi I get from using the controller. Admittedly I have been completely sucked in from there with a new wheel and seat, but that is just me.
 
Trone_Colby
Its all down to personal preference. I used to run 5/10. I tried 10/1 out of curiosity and been shaving .5 to 2 seconds off my laptime. Whatever works.
Click to expand...
Good God this feels good. I'm not going to use it the whole time, but FFB strength set to a high number with sensitivity at 1 gives great feedback. Thanks
 
Read this...

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/sixaxis-to-g25-1-year.115679/

Maz was one of the quickest pad users around. This is his blog when he switched to a wheel... what he did and how long it took him to become fast with a wheel. Matches my own experiences 15+ years ago, but Maz articulates it so much better than I could.

It's rarely an 'instant' switch, and success comes down to how committed you are and how much time/patience you have.

Constantly faffing about with the wheel settings is a waste of time until you have at least a basic command of the wheel... changing the setting won't make you competent.... time and perseverance will.
 
Stotty
This is his blog when he switched to a wheel
Click to expand...

Still using a shoe box and plank rig after a year must have held him back quite a lot.

Good read though as he gives good examples of each facet of wheel use that new users can easily relate to and possibly learn from.👍
 

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