Handling oversteer on the RWD cars

I had to learn how to countersteer at the exact moment when that happens, and use the throttle and the steering wheel gently while exiting a corner; I know that these are the basics, and I personally find it very tricky to do it with a DS4, but I personally got the hang of it quite quickly and I don't want to use aids (except ABS).
Hope this helps :D
 
Hi guys,

I am asking for help regarding oversteer on RWD cars. Are there any tips & tricks, videos you can recommend, anything that could help...?

My issue is that first of all I don't have much experience with RWD cars, neither in real life, not in GT Sport.
I have improved quite a bit in the last few weeks when it comes to preventing oversteer from happening in the first place, but it still happens, and I guess it happens for everyone.
So my issue is not so much that it does happen (any tips to prevent it aside from not going on the throttle too hard too early when the steering angle is too big yet would still be appreciated)...
...but what to do when it happens, because basically I am CLUELESS! :banghead:

So when it happens apparently I try to countersteer. Sometimes it works, but more often it doesn't, and so far it seems to me it is more luck then strategy behind it. Most of the time either I can't intercept it (too late?), or do it "too strong" (and fly off the track on the countersteering side), or (and this pisses me off the most) it oversteers, then swings in the other direction, I counter again, and it swings back in the original direction, and then I swing around like a pendulum 2-3 times and then instead of gaining traction i finally fly off the track....

So seriously... what do I do....? Especially with the throttle. Yesterday I checked a few videos on Youtube and basically in 3 videos I had 3 different instructions regarding the throttle - lift the throttle, stay on the throttle, push the throttle, squeeze the throttle.... what the hell should I do with the throttle when it happens?

...and what with the wheel? do only a tine countersteer but for a longer time, or a bigger one for a shorter time? Do I steer back into the curve when the car faces the apex again, or earlier to allow for reaction time... and is there any hope when I am too late or can I just forget it then anyway?

Is it mostly a matter of reacting quickly enough or more one of the technique? Because if it is 95% catching it in time I fear I am lost and will never learn it because apparently then I am too old and slow...

PS: one more thing, I am not sure whether this is due to my way of driving or this is the same for everyone, but I encounter the oversteer way less often in the MR cars than in the FR cars. I have an easier time handling even the Gr. 3 458 than the M6. The M4 Gr. 4 and the M6 Gr. 3 are basically undriveable for me. The 458 Gr. 4 as well as the McLare and the Cayman I can handle rather easily, also the Porsche and the RCZ in Gr. 3 are easier for me to handle in Gr. 3. When I did test runs on Dragon Trail with BoP on and default settings I was able to do 1:39:00 times with all cars I tried (Vantage, RCZ, Italia, even the M6), only in the Porsche I was able to do 1:38 (and rather easily too compared to the other cars, for the RCZ I needed 20+ laps to do a 1:39.200, with the Porsche I guess with more training I could also go to 1:37). So you also know a bit about my skill level with the Gr. 3 cars... everything without any assists of course.

Try drifting. It may not be the consensus, but I found the art of drifting to be valuable.

You can also try a GrB on dirt. Inputs take some time to get used to, but the pedal modulation and steering angle will certainly challenge your quickness.
 
So why do you avoid using aids that are there to help you?
Simply switching on CSA will likely help you enormously.

I agree with @Stotty and @zzz_pt, nothing wrong with using aids. Whatever makes it more fun and makes you faster.

Using CSA with a wheel is just plainly ridiculous! The option should only be active for controller settings. (maybe should make another thread of this)
- The whole point of using a wheel is that you want to steer the car as the real thing.
- The Force Feedback gets messed up - strange forces when the correction gets active
- Some of you guys keep saying 'it does not make you faster' and then 'just resting my arms' or 'just a safety net' or 'just makes me more consistent' Don't be ridiculous. It helps a lot, it prevents spinning, so you can drive on the limit more consistently and thus are way faster.

Look at novcze's video above. If you can countersteer like he does in the first lap, kudos to you. Do it. Show it. But don't you dare to say: "Oh, i can do it, i can countersteer like god, but sometimes I just need to rest and leave it to the electronics.

I made another thread for that, by the way... Maybe you want to post your comments there.
 
Last edited:
First you need to understand why, when and where the back end can step out. Knowing this will alow you to anticipate it or be ready for it before it even happens. The correction itself is about visuals, feel and reaction speed. As soon as you visually notice the car over rotating and feel the FFB going light you need to react or you will be to late and going sideways. If you catch it quick enough before it really steps out a quick snap of the wheel can be enough to bring the back end back in line. Any later or a more severe oversteer moment and youre gonna need to hold countersteer longer and a small lift might be needed, be carefull though cause a lift will make the weight of the car shift forward making the rear light and the car prone to spin. If you passed the point of no return and are going fully sideways slam the brakes and straighten the wheel to slow the car and prevent it spinning in a 180.

I only use ABS and having trouble remembering the last time i actually fully spun my car in a race.
 
Last edited:
Using CSA with a wheel is just plainly ridiculous! The option should only be active for controller settings. (maybe should make another thread of this)
- The whole point of using a wheel is that you want to steer the car as the real thing.
- The Force Feedback gets messed up - strange forces when the correction gets active
- Some of you guys keep saying 'it does not make you faster' and then 'just resting my arms' or 'just a safety net' or 'just makes me more consistent' Don't be ridiculous. It helps a lot, it prevents spinning, so you can drive on the limit more consistently and thus are way faster.

Look at novcze's video above. If you can countersteer like he does in the first lap, kudos to you. Do it. Show it. But don't you dare to say: "Oh, i can do it, i can countersteer like god, but sometimes I just need to rest and leave it to the electronics.

I made another thread for that, by the way... Maybe you want to post your comments there.

I am not getting into a debate on whether someone should or should not use assists. I could care less what assists someone uses.
 
Try the Supra RZ with a few mods on Sports Hard tires. I just had my breakthrough in drifting with this car yesterday.
Car settings: Power up to 400HP
Suspension: -20mm lower, +0.20 stiffer, camber -4 at the front and -1 at the rear
Customizable diff: Everything max
Transmission: Top speed 220km/h
 
Last edited:
I use diff setup 10/05/20 on all rwd cars. Make them drivable and little bit easyer to control while slide. I think u will never have good control because of the weird physics. The tyrespin at low speed is like driving on ice and the snapback of the frontwheels are so strong its a pain to drift or doing fun stuff.
edit: only using comfort soft tyres & all helper off
 
Right there at 48 seconds into the video, I would have flown off the track for sure, the only question would have been whether flying off to the right or to the left side :lol:

One thing I didn't mention before: I guess the cockpit view helps with this?

I use "bumper" cam in-game, I used cockpit in video so anyone can see the steering input.

With all due respect, I’m running lap times 1.5-2 seconds faster than you are on that combo :)

ok? I'm usually 1- 2 sec slower than top 10 so that sounds about right. I'm not dissing people who use CSA, I'm only saying that you don't need to use it.

btw. maybe you have met derek737_DK who is probably on your performance level and he is not using TCS/CSA.

I see I make an appearance in 7th :D

yeah and I really liked your "teethed" 911 👍
 
ok? I'm usually 1- 2 sec slower than top 10 so that sounds about right. I'm not dissing people who use CSA, I'm only saying that you don't need to use it.

btw. maybe you have met derek737_DK who is probably on your performance level and he is not using TCS/CSA.

I don't 'need' to use CSA (I can lap quicker than 99.x% of players without it), but I use it to minimise mistakes when racing. Allows me to be a bit more aggressive, and ultimately race closer... which increases my enjoyment of the game. Anything else is irrelevant as far as I'm concerned.

I've raced Derek on many occasions. He is faster than me in outright pace (varies by track, but consistently around 0.3-0.5s or so), and he's a good racer as well, but I have beaten him on occasion.

On the flip side, SK-Patohm is about the same pace as Derek, and he uses CSA.
 
Handling Oversteer....

I was having a hoon around, I was thinking about this thread and what I'm reacting to, I think the car revs sudden increase is the 1st audio cue and I'm already reacting by the time the scenery has told my eyes I'm oversteering.
Hope that helps
 
I don't 'need' to use CSA (I can lap quicker than 99.x% of players without it), but I use it to minimise mistakes when racing. Allows me to be a bit more aggressive, and ultimately race closer... which increases my enjoyment of the game. Anything else is irrelevant as far as I'm concerned.

oh sure, that "you" in my response wasn't meant as literal you. I should have used "one".
 
I use "bumper" cam in-game, I used cockpit in video so anyone can see the steering input.



ok? I'm usually 1- 2 sec slower than top 10 so that sounds about right. I'm not dissing people who use CSA, I'm only saying that you don't need to use it.

btw. maybe you have met derek737_DK who is probably on your performance level and he is not using TCS/CSA.



yeah and I really liked your "teethed" 911 👍

Cheers! It was a custom file I made in illustrator. I might redo the rest to freshen it up though!
 
For me it's easiest to detect in the nose camera view. Every corner is a little different and the corner after will have an impact in how you handle the oversteer, imo. So it's difficult to say one way is the right way.
 
Use the hood view, some cars it's manageable to counter steer or adjust, but the 458 is a bit scary. It oversteers in some corners a lot and if you snap adjust you will easily lose traction. The FFB isn't the greatest for countering over steer, the best way is to practice with certain cars on what angles should be going in.
 
A good combo to practice with...

Toyota GT2000
Comfort hard tyres
Rear toe 0
Front camber 0.5
Custom LSD 10/20/5
Brake balance -4 (rear)

Nurburgring (full track, not GP)

This combo is lovely... with toe and LSD decel removed it has a nice oversteer balance in to the corners (momentum oversteer), and on comfort tyres, with stock power and stock soft suspension, it slides really progressively on exits without getting too lairy.

There's a replay in my library for anyone on my friends list (don't know how to upload them to YT!)... no CSA ;)
 
Sometimes it works, but more often it doesn't, and so far it seems to me it is more luck then strategy behind it. Most of the time either I can't intercept it (too late?), or do it "too strong" (and fly off the track on the countersteering side), or (and this pisses me off the most) it oversteers, then swings in the other direction, I counter again, and it swings back in the original direction, and then I swing around like a pendulum 2-3 times and then instead of gaining traction i finally fly off the track.....

One way to learn to maximise your ability to deal with oversteer consistently every time is to always have a central focus of the upcoming task well in advance because with driving fast on a track or a road, everything happens extremely fast for the average person, so any method to slow this perceived experience down for the driver is absolutely essential.

To properly grasp this concept, it's always best to practice with a car that is slightly unstable under braking, mid corner and on acceleration.

So for instance, if the car is a bit unstable under braking like in the wet, the central focus as you go flat out down the straight needs to be what way you are going to produce the turn-in for the car, so you ideally need to be looking a bit beyond the turn-in point with peripheral vision, but you need to also record your braking point too, to properly synchronise with this operation.

With ABS, you can afford to brake much deeper into the corners and can afford to look further into them too, typically way beyond the turn-in point this time, but again with peripheral vision. As the car enters the corner, you ideally need to begin looking beyond the apex and for the exit rumble strips, and very shortly before acceleration, looking beyond the exit rumble strips in order to try and predict what the car is going to do possibly a split second before it happens. This is very important and one reason I think many are having snap oversteer issues other than the iffy physics, is because no one has complained about the driver and lap time lists which interferes with our ability to do this reliably in races.

To get into this mode routinely can take many months at least, but it can be done.

Edit: To simplify things as much as I can, a car only ever does two things; forms a straight line or arc between two points and given that both these trajectories also form any operation (braking deceleration on entry, acceleration on exit) around a race track as well, the way to look at it is to always be looking beyond that straight line or arc before the car itself has actually done so.

Braking point to turn-in point forms a straight line
Turn-in point to apex forms an arc
Apex to exit kerb forms an arc.

This is my interpretation of it, and I'm sure many other experienced drivers have their own way of reading a track for the desired outcome.

Establishing turn-in points can be difficult in GTS because there are no clear rubber marks, so I often use the inside kerb together with the approximate braking point to get the the turn-in point, so as not to have to look for the clipping point in a panic.
 
Last edited:
Back