Help, I stink at braking!

[Sander 001]

I just don’t know what I’m doing wrong but every time I watch a streamer or spectate a decent driver, they’re always able to brake much later than me

I’m using a G29 if that matters, no assists except ABS default.

Should I stomp on the brake as hard as possible? Be more gradual? Should I downshift immediately or wait a moment for engine braking?

Any tips would be appreciated, I’m hopeless lol

 

[soundtiger95]

What exactly is your problem with braking? Are you having trouble turning and are continuing straight, are you spinning out, etc.?

 

[Lion-Face]

A video of a lap of any track and car would help greatly. Preferably a common combo, le mans/gr1, dragons trail gr3 etc

 

[zzz_pt]

Hard to give any tips without more info or preferably a video of your driving / braking technique.

 

[Dogwolf77]

First, before you hone your skills, adjust your brake balance. You do this by turning off ABS. Then run a time trial on brands hatch short track. Lots of turns. Start and stop watching your tire indicator. Roll to level up and down until you get both red tires on the front then rear. That is close. Now, turn abs on, start testing turning and find tune it.
I notice that I tend to see balance with great control near to the positive end of the spectrum depending upon the car.
A rule of thumb in the real world also is to bias the front as little as possible, look for an even mix.

 

[Nielsen]

I find that it for the most part works best this way:

• Brake in a straight line and gradually (sudden braking can easily upset balance)
• Let the revs fall to the point where the first downshift doesn't cause anything close to a rev spike
• Consecutive downshifts should follow the same logic, like a rythm

The rapidness of your downshifts need to factor in the transmission type, but it comes naturally when following the bullet points listed above. Use your ears.

Stomping the brakes can obviously be effective during emergency braking, but it upsets balance in a way you probably don't want from a competitive standpoint.

Maybe someone else can share better advice.

 

[Dogwolf77]

I find that it for the most part works best this way:

• Brake in a straight line and gradually (sudden braking can easily upset balance)
• Let the revs fall to the point where the first downshift doesn't cause anything close to a rev spike
• Consecutive downshifts should follow the same logic, like a rythm

The rapidness of your downshifts need to factor in the transmission type, but it comes naturally when following the bullet points listed above.

Stomping the brakes can obviously be effective during emergency braking, but it upsets balance in a way you probably don't want from a competitive standpoint.

Maybe someone else can share better advice.

This is precisely the way to do it! Excellent. Just one additional thought, when you turn ABS back on, set it for weak, try it. Then try default. Me, I stick with weak, it allows more control. Less rigid. Personally.

 

[Keith2324]

I thought about posting about this also, but I didn't quite know how to word it. I have downloaded lap times of some of the faster drivers and I always notice their "brake bar" is full red when in the braking zone. I am using the CSL Elite with load cell and the red portion is only 1/3 of the entire brake indicator. The rest is white. I'm curious too.

Keith.

 

[Dogwolf77]

I thought about posting about this also, but I didn't quite know how to word it. I have downloaded lap times of some of the faster drivers and I always notice their "brake bar" is full red when in the braking zone. I am using the CSL Elite with load cell and the red portion is only 1/3 of the entire brake indicator. The rest is white. I'm curious too.

Keith.

I don’t trust,nor understand the logic behind the brake bar. It seems with even a slight pressure I activate the ABS. Regardless of the red bar. I do know that without abs, you’re sure to run into the sand trap or worse.
If you notice the bar not moving the full range, simply unplug the controller/wheel, the calibration will reset and your good again. For me, that’s an issue I ran into and the main reason to pay close attention to the brake bar when not fine tuning brake bias.

 

[wtrain77]

I once owned a G29 and experienced exactly what you are describing. In my particular case, I was applying too much pressure on the brakes, presumably activating ABS. Threshold braking is more efficient. Try easing up on the brake pressure. Alternatively, you might be able to adjust brake sensitivity in GTSport if it is an option.

 

[Dogwolf77]

I once owned a G29 and experienced exactly what you are describing. In my particular case, I was applying too much pressure on the brakes, presumably activating ABS. Threshold braking is more efficient. Try easing up on the brake pressure. Alternatively, you might be able to adjust brake sensitivity in GTSport if it is an option.

I placed a small piece of foam behind the pedal to help. It works well, adds resistance and prevents me from getting to aggressive braking. I confess, my wheel is a T150, pedals are not the high quality I prefer. They work well and I’m pretty content for the moment. Had to replace a spring for the accelerator after only a month. My Logitech wasn’t compatible with GTS so I wanted to test the game and see if I’d like it before slapping serious cash to it.

I absolutely love the game, and will certainly upgrade. Never had a problem with the Logitech

 

[CBH]

I just don’t know what I’m doing wrong but every time I watch a streamer or spectate a decent driver, they’re always able to brake much later than me

I’m using a G29 if that matters, no assists except ABS default.

Should I stomp on the brake as hard as possible? Be more gradual? Should I downshift immediately or wait a moment for engine braking?

Any tips would be appreciated, I’m hopeless lol

I would be more gradual on braking, I have a G29 and I do left foot braking and I brake right up to the Apex. I only stomp on the brakes if I only got avoid an incident. Another thing to look at is a better brake spring, I use GTEYE spring and it is very good.

 

[Skygrasper550]

Are you messing with the Brake Balance? That could be a potential problem. Set it back to 0 if you have, it gives you a better, more predictable feel of the car when slowing down.

 

[Dogwolf77]

I placed a small piece of foam behind the pedal to help. It works well, adds resistance and prevents me from getting to aggressive braking. I confess, my wheel is a T150, pedals are not the high quality I prefer. They work well and I’m pretty content for the moment. Had to replace a spring for the accelerator after only a month. My Logitech wasn’t compatible with GTS so I wanted to test the game and see if I’d like it before slapping serious cash to it.

I absolutely love the game, and will certainly upgrade. Never had a problem with the Logitech

I once owned a G29 and experienced exactly what you are describing. In my particular case, I was applying too much pressure on the brakes, presumably activating ABS. Threshold braking is more efficient. Try easing up on the brake pressure. Alternatively, you might be able to adjust brake sensitivity in GTSport if it is an option.

By the way, your right, I applied entirely to much force on the brakes prior to learning the correct way. It took practice but the results were amazing. Be smooth at all times and down shift nice and easy.

Are you messing with the Brake Balance? That could be a potential problem. Set it back to 0 if you have, it gives you a better, more predictable feel of the car when slowing down.

Do you leave all your tunes at zero brake bias? For all fr, mr, and ff cars?

 

[Skygrasper550]

Do you leave all your tunes at zero brake bias? For all fr, mr, and ff cars?

Yup, trailbraking feels great in this game so I don't see the need to tinker with the brake balance. If you're having problems with corner entry under braking (car is not stable or doesn't want to turn in), adjust the suspension instead. Slight tweaks to the dampers, camber or toe should do the trick.

 

[Dogwolf77]

Yup, trailbraking feels great in this game so I don't see the need to tinker with the brake balance. If you're having problems with corner entry under braking (car is not stable or doesn't want to turn in), adjust the suspension instead. Slight tweaks to the dampers, camber or toe should do the trick.

In GT6 I rarely adjusted the bias. I’d look at the LSD or sus first. In Sport mode, all my tuning is defeated by BOP. I found that I had to fine tune bias -1 to 1 , in order to get the turn in response I need. I do, I could be wrong but I certainly know there is a big difference. I almost never spin off the track after tuning. It’s as though the throttle and brake are in harmony.

Just try it and if it doesn’t help, hey, no harm no foul. One thing is for sure, the tuning garage is my back up here, what works for one guy won’t always work for another.

 

[ARTAsean]

Yup, trailbraking feels great in this game so I don't see the need to tinker with the brake balance. If you're having problems with corner entry under braking (car is not stable or doesn't want to turn in), adjust the suspension instead. Slight tweaks to the dampers, camber or toe should do the trick.

I used to run +5 on all cars but after the 1.23 tire model update I just can't anymore. Especially with MR cars, even at 0 they rotate so much more than they used to. I do run +2 or +3 on understeerey FR cars though.

 

[Skygrasper550]

In GT6 I rarely adjusted the bias. I’d look at the LSD or sus first. In Sport mode, all my tuning is defeated by BOP. I found that I had to fine tune bias -1 to 1 , in order to get the turn in response I need. I do, I could be wrong but I certainly know there is a big difference. I almost never spin off the track after tuning. It’s as though the throttle and brake are in harmony.

Just try it and if it doesn’t help, hey, no harm no foul. One thing is for sure, the tuning garage is my back up here, what works for one guy won’t always work for another.

Forgot to mention the differential as well. Having a too high value on the Inital Torque or Decel setting can and will hamper corner entry.

 

[Krypton78]

I just don’t know what I’m doing wrong but every time I watch a streamer or spectate a decent driver, they’re always able to brake much later than me

I’m using a G29 if that matters, no assists except ABS default.

Should I stomp on the brake as hard as possible? Be more gradual? Should I downshift immediately or wait a moment for engine braking?

Any tips would be appreciated, I’m hopeless lol

Now how should I describe it.

Sometimes, when watching a replay or stream, it just only looks that all the brakings are later compared to that what you remember from your driving.

What I mean is, there is somehow a difference between watching and actually driving.

Sounds weird I know. What I can recomend is take a replay with a fast driver from a daily race with yourself in and make a photo from exactly the point where his brake bar starts to grow. Then take a photo when you are in the same corner. Now you will be able to compare if and how much you brake earlier.

 

[Baroket]

I have downloaded lap times of some of the faster drivers and I always notice their "brake bar" is full red when in the braking zone.

This is simply a quirk of the replay system, for whatever reason it won’t show the amount of ABS interference when the brakes are applied.

 

[senzr]

Brake in a straight line and gradually (sudden braking can easily upset balance)

This isn’t completely right. You should brake with maximum force first (as late as possible) and then ease off the brake pressure while dialling in steering lock, to let the tyre transition from braking grip to cornering grip (traction circle). Braking in a straight line helps keep the car stable, but keeping some of the braking force on during corner entry while easing off the pressure helps use all the tyre’s available grip and weight transfer to rotate the car (trail braking).

 

[KepleroGT]

In GT6 I rarely adjusted the bias. I’d look at the LSD or sus first. In Sport mode, all my tuning is defeated by BOP. I found that I had to fine tune bias -1 to 1 , in order to get the turn in response I need. I do, I could be wrong but I certainly know there is a big difference. I almost never spin off the track after tuning. It’s as though the throttle and brake are in harmony.

Just try it and if it doesn’t help, hey, no harm no foul. One thing is for sure, the tuning garage is my back up here, what works for one guy won’t always work for another.

This. With no setup Gr.3 cars feel awful. With setup I can slam the gas with no TCS and the car will not spin out (most of the time)

 

[Woodybobs]

their "brake bar" is full red

In replays the brake bar is only red. It includes ABS but doesn't show it. If you watch gameplay footage of fast laps you'll see the ABS kicking in as normal.

 

[Zipperface]

Its only about the stupid FoV, you will never hit the apex properly without the option to change the FoV to fit with your hardware setup.
GT-S is the big brother of Dakar´18 LOL Even in the latest fun/open world arcade racer horizon4 you can setup the FoV !

 

[zzz_pt]

I used to run +5 on all cars but after the 1.23 tire model update I just can't anymore. Especially with MR cars, even at 0 they rotate so much more than they used to. I do run +2 or +3 on understeerey FR cars though.

Same here.

+5 makes the cars way too unstable now.

 

[Nielsen]

This isn’t completely right. You should brake with maximum force first (as late as possible) and then ease off the brake pressure while dialling in steering lock, to let the tyre transition from braking grip to cornering grip (traction circle). Braking in a straight line helps keep the car stable, but keeping some of the braking force on during corner entry while easing off the pressure helps use all the tyre’s available grip and weight transfer to rotate the car (trail braking).

I could have been clearer - I meant apply the brakes before turning rather than keep braking in a straight line. There are definitely situations where trail braking works in the way you exemplified but it depends on the corner. For example, trail braking doesn't work very well for hairpins as those usually require doing most of the braking before turn in.

 

[Thorin Cain]

This isn’t completely right. You should brake with maximum force first (as late as possible) and then ease off the brake pressure while dialling in steering lock, to let the tyre transition from braking grip to cornering grip (traction circle). Braking in a straight line helps keep the car stable, but keeping some of the braking force on during corner entry while easing off the pressure helps use all the tyre’s available grip and weight transfer to rotate the car (trail braking).

Fantastic explanation 👍.