Here are settings for the Mercedes SLR McLaren '03, feedback appreciated

  • Thread starter DuckRacer
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I got everything except the NA upgrade and stiffening.. it's about 660 PS (didn't change oil), I believe.

Springs - 12.5/10
Ride - 100/110
Bound - 6/6
Rebound - 8/4
Camber - 2.8/1.2 (not really fiddled with, just a random setting)
Toe - 0/0
Stabilizers - 3/3

Brakes 5/6
LSD 10/40/13

All aids off

Gearbox autoset to 7 for Midfield, if I recall correctly.

Midfield lap times: 1:12-ish on S2, 1:16-ish on N2 (with a little bit of drifting :dopey: )... keep in mind that I'm no gold medalist grip racer though, your times will probably be better.

This setup seemed pretty neutral to me, there's still some understeer on throttle and braking.. but it's far better than it was. Supports trailbraking pretty well, and seems very stable over bumps and curbs, as well as when rapidly changing direction.
 
I see that your obviously interested in getting great set ups out there, I see you have alot posted already (Dificult to find any feed back on those set ups, this being the first Ive been able to post my own) Im trying to be constructive here, so I know it will be critiszm BUT only to help, not to be rude.
Okay.

I would sugest to lower the rear Spring rate (Its way too stiff back there) loosening the rear is a good thing, it helps get the ass of the car arround corners.
I know. I made this set-up about 5 months ago, and I've learned a lot since then. 👍

Someone previously stated in this post that the car will handle better if the Spring rate Variables are closer together, just forget that, I dont know where he thought up that, but it couldnt be further from the truth.
IMHO, it doesn't make the car handle any better, but it has a nice tight secure feel to it, and when I dive down into a corner, I know what it will do.

More time spent on the Shock Bound & Rebound would be needed

SB___7/7
SRB__8/8

This is Way too gineric (As seen on most Duck Set ups) You can get ALOT of cornering ballance from Proper adjustments to the SB & SRB.
To be honest with you, I don't know a whole lot about the Bound and Rebound settings. When I use
7/7
8/8,
it works well, and the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" saying applies only here. If you can tell me some tips on how to set them up, it would be greatly appreciated. :)
And dont you find the rear end a little jacked up?
Chassis downforce.
The tranny trick, shouldnt be used by real tuners (Its not that hard to set the gears up to close or better then the tranny trick can set) and I find the tranny trick a bit of a tuning cheat.
Ditched that ages ago.

Toe is a rarety to be implyed on a Street Tuned car (Mostly For Purpose biult Race cars, but it does benifit some street cars, it apears there is way too much in this aplication, not only resulting in poor handeling, but also increasing the tire ware to the vehicle. Some Raod cars can benifit from them, but its rare.
Yes, it increases tire wear, but I'd rather trade in some tire life for better handling.
Your LSD Accel Should NEVER be that low on a Rear wheel drive vehicle, never ever.
Why?

Beaks (This being a Higly subjective matter, alot of Driving styles will incoporate odd Break set ups, but the General rule is the Weight transfers to the front while breaking, the area with most weight needing the higher break setting (hint hint) But like I said, some odd driving styles will incorporate odd setting some times.
When you're braking, I prefer it to move some to if I want to turn in while braking, I can.

You will also generally want the Front to sway less then the rear as the front is turning the car, so Tightening the Saw bar up front and loosening it in the rear help get her arround corners (Speaking in reguards to Front engine rear wheel drive vehicles
I have been applying that to my set-ups for about a few months now.

ASM is a no no for tuners, If the set up wont work without ASM, I would go back to the drawing board (AS a rule, ASM is put to 0 as the First thing I do after buying all upgrades for the car.
I added it on because it was understeering a lot, and I was doing a lot of things wrong, like stiffening the rear sway bars, springs, etc. If I went back and retuned the SLR, I would ditch the ASM settings.

Good luck with your set ups and Tuning, I hope you take it far.
You too. 👍

Thanks a bunch for your constructive critisizm. :)

Duck
 
.Duck.
Okay.


I know. I made this set-up about 5 months ago, and I've learned a lot since then. 👍

Cool!


.Duck.
IMHO, it doesn't make the car handle any better, but it has a nice tight secure feel to it, and when I dive down into a corner, I know what it will do.

Wasnt Sure, Just Checking, glad your already on that page.


.Duck.
To be honest with you, I don't know a whole lot about the Bound and Rebound settings. When I use
7/7
8/8,
it works well, and the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" saying applies only here. If you can tell me some tips on how to set them up, it would be greatly appreciated. :)

Generally you want to have the SB lower then the SRB (They say SRB Should be double, but thas adjustable within limits) For FR cars usually between 3 & 6, Getting higher then that and the Front might get a little bouncy. And the SRB between 6 & 8, up front & 6 & 9 in the rear, this speaking of FR cars as these generals are completly diferent for diferent drive trains.

.Duck.
Chassis downforce.

Yeah, but thats way too much.

.Duck.
Ditched that ages ago.

Glad to hear it. 👍 👍


.Duck.
Yes, it increases tire wear, but I'd rather trade in some tire life for better handling.

Use it as a Last resort (rarely needed), it waill also cause abnormalaties in shifting weight transfer and reduce the speeds the car can hit.

Picture a car Driving straight with wheels like

/ \

/ \

or

\ /

\ /

The wheels are forcing there way outward or inward.

Its cool to Put in F1, LM or Race bread cars because it adds stability at high speeds, something you need while going 200mph+ speeds in straights, & cornering at 100mph+ Speeds. Race Cars are also under ALOT more downforce pressure.

Only as a Last resort, but generally not needed for Street cars (Even ones almost hitting 1000hp)

.Duck.

This is where the Power gets Put Down, its important to ballance the slip you have when your giving power, too much slip, not enough power is getting put down (Your going slower then you can be going) Not enough slip and your inner wheels will put too much down and it generally causes understeer, or even worse your rear end to break traction and slip out (Not a Bad thing if your drifting, but not a Good thing if hunting a Fast Lap time)

FR cars will Generally have between 28 to 52 LSD Acell


.Duck.
When you're braking, I prefer it to move some to if I want to turn in while braking, I can.

People like to induce a rear wheel slid to get the but arround a corner, while effective, its not the fastest way arround, but this is (Like I was saying) A real driver preference.


.Duck.
I have been applying that to my set-ups for about a few months now.

Again, good to know your on the Same page already 👍 👍


.Duck.
I added it on because it was understeering a lot, and I was doing a lot of things wrong, like stiffening the rear sway bars, springs, etc. If I went back and retuned the SLR, I would ditch the ASM settings.

Good Stuff, Id grab her and doa revision (I also do that from time to time when I come back to cars I tunned a while back)

Hope it all helps!


.Duck.
Thanks a bunch for your constructive critisizm. :)

Duck


No Problem, Glad your open minded, its the only way to improve.

Let me know if I can help with anything else.
 
Okay, I just revised my set-up, and I shed ANOTHER second and a half. On sports medium tires, it has lapped it faster than any other car I have tuned, apart from the ZZII.
Rac3rX
Generally you want to have the SB lower then the SRB (They say SRB Should be double, but thas adjustable within limits) For FR cars usually between 3 & 6, Getting higher then that and the Front might get a little bouncy. And the SRB between 6 & 8, up front & 6 & 9 in the rear, this speaking of FR cars as these generals are completly diferent for diferent drive trains.
I applied that to the Mclaren set-up, and it helps make the car handle better. I also applied it to the already understeering Audi RS 6, and it handles better than it could handle. Thanks for the helpful tip. 👍 :cheers:



Yeah, but thats way too much.
I was thinking I only had 30mm or rake on it, and it was actually 50! I can see why you said that. :scared:
Use it as a Last resort (rarely needed), it waill also cause abnormalaties in shifting weight transfer and reduce the speeds the car can hit.

Picture a car Driving straight with wheels like

/ \

/ \

or

\ /

\ /

The wheels are forcing there way outward or inward.

Its cool to Put in F1, LM or Race bread cars because it adds stability at high speeds, something you need while going 200mph+ speeds in straights, & cornering at 100mph+ Speeds. Race Cars are also under ALOT more downforce pressure.

Only as a Last resort, but generally not needed for Street cars (Even ones almost hitting 1000hp)
I have to disagree. If it's an oval, or Sarthe, or Nurburgring, or some other high speed track, then that's one thing. If I had no toe on my McLaren, yeah it would go faster on the straights, but I would lose seconds on the corners.



This is where the Power gets Put Down, its important to ballance the slip you have when your giving power, too much slip, not enough power is getting put down (Your going slower then you can be going) Not enough slip and your inner wheels will put too much down and it generally causes understeer, or even worse your rear end to break traction and slip out (Not a Bad thing if your drifting, but not a Good thing if hunting a Fast Lap time)

FR cars will Generally have between 28 to 52 LSD Acell
Thanks for the in-depth description. :)
 
.Duck.
Okay, I just revised my set-up, and I shed ANOTHER second and a half. On sports medium tires, it has lapped it faster than any other car I have tuned, apart from the ZZII.

I applied that to the Mclaren set-up, and it helps make the car handle better. I also applied it to the already understeering Audi RS 6, and it handles better than it could handle. Thanks for the helpful tip. 👍 :cheers:




I was thinking I only had 30mm or rake on it, and it was actually 50! I can see why you said that. :scared:

I have to disagree. If it's an oval, or Sarthe, or Nurburgring, or some other high speed track, then that's one thing. If I had no toe on my McLaren, yeah it would go faster on the straights, but I would lose seconds on the corners.




Thanks for the in-depth description. :)

No Prob, Glad I could Help! 👍
 
Ha!

Nice mate. I actually tried both and while i like the 2nd guys settings better, i feel i could handle the car more, I couldnt do a better lap time than what i did using your setup, so im happy :)
 
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