High-power FF cars: how do you make them turn?

I use Low LSD values, lower front ride height than rear, front springs tighter than rear, lower dampers in the front than the rear, lower roll bar in the front than the rear, camber at around 1.0+ all around, and rear toe set at .20-.30. These settings tend to work well for me.

I use very low dampers (2-5), and low roll bars (1-3) on FF's.
 
I use Low LSD values, lower front ride height than rear, front springs tighter than rear, lower dampers in the front than the rear, lower roll bar in the front than the rear, camber at around 1.0+ all around, and rear toe set at .20-.30. These settings tend to work well for me.

I use very low dampers (2-5), and low roll bars (1-3) on FF's.

All of bolded I disagree with to an extent.

Low LSD values simply don't work and hurt possible exit speed once you turn the power up a bit... My C30 is mad fast (breaks into the 58s at Tsukuba on S3s) for a FWD but half the reason is the diff; it was a good half second slower at Eiger and Tsukuba before I turned the accel and decel up.

Ride height can be argued but I find that running it flat or slightly lower in the rear handles a bit nicer.

I've run lower front extension to keep traction a bit longer but it hurts braking distances and turn-in as you let off the brakes... Lower front bound seems like a good idea but results in overloading of the outside front rather than helping flick it into the corner harder.

Rear toe is generally set slightly out on my FWDs (though in GT4 toe-in was more effective due to what I believe to be a bit of a physics glitch related to the inability to roll your vehicle or generally lift a tire off the ground without the surface causing it), although I do believe too much of a good thing is a bad thing in this case, the positive effects taper off very quickly (and in fact some of my cars understeer more with more toe out than less).

Too low on dampers results in too quick of compression at either end and is generally undesireable.

I too run a very low front anti-roll bar but generally crank the rear and keep the rear spring on the soft side. Works wonders for understeer, particularly on-throttle.
 
All of bolded I disagree with to an extent.

Low LSD values simply don't work and hurt possible exit speed once you turn the power up a bit... My C30 is mad fast (breaks into the 58s at Tsukuba on S3s) for a FWD but half the reason is the diff; it was a good half second slower at Eiger and Tsukuba before I turned the accel and decel up.

Ride height can be argued but I find that running it flat or slightly lower in the rear handles a bit nicer.

I've run lower front extension to keep traction a bit longer but it hurts braking distances and turn-in as you let off the brakes... Lower front bound seems like a good idea but results in overloading of the outside front rather than helping flick it into the corner harder.

Rear toe is generally set slightly out on my FWDs (though in GT4 toe-in was more effective due to what I believe to be a bit of a physics glitch related to the inability to roll your vehicle or generally lift a tire off the ground without the surface causing it), although I do believe too much of a good thing is a bad thing in this case, the positive effects taper off very quickly (and in fact some of my cars understeer more with more toe out than less).

Too low on dampers results in too quick of compression at either end and is generally undesireable.

I too run a very low front anti-roll bar but generally crank the rear and keep the rear spring on the soft side. Works wonders for understeer, particularly on-throttle.

I'll give this a try, I'm just posting what's been working for me. Should be fun to see how my method stacks up against yours. Thanks for the info!
 
In the WRS FF challenge, the best set up, appeared to be simple.
Max every setting in the front, minimize every setting in the rear.
Nuke the LSD to 5/?/5
? = What's comfortable for you, 20~30 usually
Odd, but i'll be damned if it didn't work.
 
I'd agree with lower LSD values, I prefer my inside tire to pull me out of a turn. Too much lock on the LSD will cause torque steer, usually taking you wide/understeer & I'd disagree on the rear toes; personally I always use 0.0 rear toe on FF's, with a +0.05 F-toe. If you have adjustable front downforce, near max it with rear DF at min.
 
All of bolded I disagree with to an extent.

Low LSD values simply don't work and hurt possible exit speed once you turn the power up a bit... My C30 is mad fast (breaks into the 58s at Tsukuba on S3s) for a FWD but half the reason is the diff; it was a good half second slower at Eiger and Tsukuba before I turned the accel and decel up.

Ride height can be argued but I find that running it flat or slightly lower in the rear handles a bit nicer.

I've run lower front extension to keep traction a bit longer but it hurts braking distances and turn-in as you let off the brakes... Lower front bound seems like a good idea but results in overloading of the outside front rather than helping flick it into the corner harder.

Rear toe is generally set slightly out on my FWDs (though in GT4 toe-in was more effective due to what I believe to be a bit of a physics glitch related to the inability to roll your vehicle or generally lift a tire off the ground without the surface causing it), although I do believe too much of a good thing is a bad thing in this case, the positive effects taper off very quickly (and in fact some of my cars understeer more with more toe out than less).

Too low on dampers results in too quick of compression at either end and is generally undesireable.

I too run a very low front anti-roll bar but generally crank the rear and keep the rear spring on the soft side. Works wonders for understeer, particularly on-throttle.

But isn't low extension = less resistance and therefore it extends faster, which results in loss of traction on exit, when accelerating? It lifts the front faster?
 
But isn't low extension = less resistance and therefore it extends faster, which results in loss of traction on exit, when accelerating? It lifts the front faster?

Just when you set it too low. A FF-car is usually much heavier on the front and that's why you set a lower extension (just not too low, of course)
 
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