xDriftzzinc
(Banned)
- 1,120
- United States
- DriFtZz
All of this is from this:
http://mag.subiesport.com/index2.php?option=com_content&do_pdf=1&id=75
YES THIS CAN BE APPLIED TO GT5 AND IS MAINLY FOR WHEEL DRIFTERS.
I have copied and pasted so you don't have to go to that link
And yes i know its for a Suby but suck it up and use the advice he gives you, it's helpful stuff. If you see unnecessary paragraphs reply with the specific section and i will take it out (I'm to lazy right now). Thanks for reading and have a nice day.
Team Orange :: Suspension Secrets
Contributed by Kumakubo
KONNICHIWA Subiesport Magazine readers! This is D1 driver Kumakubo with
Team Orange. Here comes the brand new 2007 D1GP season and Team Orange is rocking!
KONNICHIWA Subiesport Magazine readers! This is D1 driver Kumakubo with Team Orange. Here comes the brand
new 2007 D1GP season and Team Orange is rocking! We shall be drifting around America by the time you are reading
my column, and we may have met already at Subiefest2 in Portland! For this season, we are bringing two Imprezas to
the United States. The cars are a little bit toned-down and limited when compared to our D1GP Japan Series version
cars but the power plants still create massive a 420 hp, which I love.
Also the same suspension parts as our other D1 cars are being installed to our D1 USA cars. Since we used the JDM
MY07 Impreza WRX Spec C as a starting point for my teammate, Tanaka’s ride, you will be able to see our all
new GD Impreza type F with the new wide body kit before the fans in Japan can see it.
In this column, let’s talk about suspension settings with our five D1 cars. With all the cars, we use DG-5 brand
adjustable coilover suspension (http://www.dg-5.co.jp/). Although our cars are converted to FR, basic settings and the
suspension layout are the same as the street version with AWD. The basic ride height is higher in the front and lower in
the rear.
For the spring rates, we use very soft springs in the rear. For the shock absorber, we mainly use the stiff part of the
suspension for slower travel time. The reasons for this set up would be to be able to have enough weight on the rear
tires. By having softer springs in the rear, it becomes easier and quicker to add weight in the rear and by doing so, rear
tires can start sliding smoothly and drifting can be initiated anytime the drivers want. Even after the cars start drifting, the
softer suspension can hold and maintain the weight in the rear; drivers can easily use precise throttle control to control
drifting.
If the ride height for the rear is high and the springs are stiff, the tires will have too much grip, and it will be very difficult to
have the back end swing. Even if you are able to start drifting, you will be sliding without being able to use the
accelerator to control the drift; this is not a good thing-and say hello to Mr. Wall!
Subiesport Magazine
http://mag.subiesport.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 26 June, 2011, 15:04
With alignment, the basic rule is to keep the toe within stock specs, but it is all up to your liking. The Impreza tends to
have bump steer (unwanted change with the front wheels move inward (toe-in) when the suspension moves up and
down), it may be better if you set the toe a little outward (toe-out) if you think your front tends to oversteer. For my setting,
I have 15mm of toe-out and for faster tracks, I have even more toe out. For the rear alignment, I have a slight toe-in
setting. Thanks to the characteristics of the Impreza’s rear suspension and geometry, not much change with the
toe-in is needed in the rear.
For the camber, since the FR Impreza tends to oversteer a lot, you really need to think more about counter steering
rather than steering into the turn when you approach the corner. Therefore, I have more front camber angle. (See my
special recipe below!) Although Imprezas have lower placement of the flat-4 engines, the engine sits in front of the front
struts. Because of the engine placement, the front feels “softer.” Instead of having stiffer springs to correct
this, I use other parts to stiffen the chassis for better handling. Below is my secret Kumakubo recipe for a FR Impreza.
Suspension Kit: DG-5 http://www.dg-5.co.jp/
Springs: SWIFT Springs, Front: 12kg/mm Rear 6kg/mm http://www.swiftsprings.com/
Toe: Front 15mm out/Rear 10mm in
Camber: Front 5 degrees/Rear 2 degrees
These specific settings are just for the D1 Impreza and not meant to be used for street cars. Please do not use the
settings on public roads.
So there it is! This is the suspension settings for our D1 cars. In one of my future columns, I will speak about how to
convert your ride to FR.
If you happen to see our orange beasts at any of the events that we participate in, feel free to ask any of our crews to
show you more of our D1 cars. It is not that difficult to replicate and build a similar Impreza as our special D1 USA cars.
You know, FR converted Impreza is Kanari Omoshiroi! (hella fun!) I want to see what Subiesport readers can do to their
Subies! Show me your rides, America!
Kumakubo, Out!
kumakubo@subiesport.com
HERE IS A BREAKDOWN:
Front spring rate increase:
More under steer; increase in proportional weight transfer to the front when rear wheel rate is not increased; reduces front traction when rear rate is not changed.
Usable adjustment: 150-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: terminal under steer; front of car hops in corners; excessive wheel spin on inside front tire on FF cars.
Front spring rate decrease:
Less under steer; decreases proportional weight transfer to the front when rear wheel rate is not increased; increases front traction when rear rate is not changed.
Usable adjustment: 150-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of to much adjustment: Too much over steer; over steer then under steer if spring is so soft that the car bottoms out on lean, car bottoms out excessively with a jolting ride.
Rear spring rate increase:
More over steer; increase in proportional weight transfer to the rear when front wheel rate is not increased; increases rear traction when front rate is not changed.
Usable range: 100-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: too much over steer; sidestep hop in corners; twitchy; pretty scary.
Rear spring rate decrease:
Less over steer: decreases proportional weight transfer to the rear when front wheel rate is not changed; increases rear traction when front rate is not changed
Usable range: 100-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car under steers; if way to soft car under steers then over steers as car bottoms out on lean; car bottoms out excessively with a jolting ride.
Front anti-roll bar stiffer: more under steer
Usable range: none to 1.25 inches in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: terminal under steer; lifts inside front tire off the ground witch can cause massive wheel spin on FF cars; also not good for most effective tire usage as inside tire is now doing nothing.
Front anti-roll bar softer: less under steer
Usable range: none to 1.25 inches in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: overstate scary; more like fun
Rear anti-roll bar stiffer: more over steer
Usable range: none to 1 inch in diameter
Symptoms of too much adjustment: Big-time over steer. Can cause inside rear tire to lift off the ground.
Rear anti-roll bar softer: less over steer
Usable range: none to 1 inch in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: under steer; slow and boring
More negative camber front: less under steer because of better lateral traction as tread is flatter on the ground under side load.
Usable range: up to 3.5 degrees negative
Symptoms of too much adjustment: poor braking; car is road crown sensitive; twitchy; front tires wear on inside edge
More negative camber rear: less over steer because of better lateral traction as tread is flatter on the ground under side load. More rear grip
Usable range: up to 2.5 degrees negative
Symptoms of too much adjustment: more over steer; car feels twitchy in back; tires wear out on inside edge; less breakaway warning when limit is exceeded.
Ride height to low (typical beginner mistake): car is twitchy with unpredictable dynamics. Bump steer make you life miserable.
Usable range: usually 1.5-2.0 inches lower then stock unless car has been modified to go lower.
Symptoms of too much adjustment: everything that could possibly go wrong: sudden over/under steer; twitchy due to bump steer; very harsh ride; premature tire wear.
Toe in – front: car is stable going straight. Turn in is average
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car has slow twitchiness under braking; feels odd; kills outside edge of tires
Toe out – front: Car turns in well; works pretty well on FF car as they tend to toe-in under load.
Usable range: 0-1/4 inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: Car is really twitchy under braking; car wanders on straight road; kills inside edge of tire
Toe in – rear: car is less likely to over steer when the throttle is lifted
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: weird, slow, rocking movement in back; feels slow but still unstable; wears outside edge of tires.
Toe out – rear: Helps car rotate useful in low speed and slalom courses; very common on FF pro rally cars.
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: not to good for street driving; causes lift throttle over steer; makes violent side to side rocking motions in the rear; tie wears on inside more.
http://mag.subiesport.com/index2.php?option=com_content&do_pdf=1&id=75
YES THIS CAN BE APPLIED TO GT5 AND IS MAINLY FOR WHEEL DRIFTERS.
I have copied and pasted so you don't have to go to that link
And yes i know its for a Suby but suck it up and use the advice he gives you, it's helpful stuff. If you see unnecessary paragraphs reply with the specific section and i will take it out (I'm to lazy right now). Thanks for reading and have a nice day.
Team Orange :: Suspension Secrets
Contributed by Kumakubo
KONNICHIWA Subiesport Magazine readers! This is D1 driver Kumakubo with
Team Orange. Here comes the brand new 2007 D1GP season and Team Orange is rocking!
KONNICHIWA Subiesport Magazine readers! This is D1 driver Kumakubo with Team Orange. Here comes the brand
new 2007 D1GP season and Team Orange is rocking! We shall be drifting around America by the time you are reading
my column, and we may have met already at Subiefest2 in Portland! For this season, we are bringing two Imprezas to
the United States. The cars are a little bit toned-down and limited when compared to our D1GP Japan Series version
cars but the power plants still create massive a 420 hp, which I love.
Also the same suspension parts as our other D1 cars are being installed to our D1 USA cars. Since we used the JDM
MY07 Impreza WRX Spec C as a starting point for my teammate, Tanaka’s ride, you will be able to see our all
new GD Impreza type F with the new wide body kit before the fans in Japan can see it.
In this column, let’s talk about suspension settings with our five D1 cars. With all the cars, we use DG-5 brand
adjustable coilover suspension (http://www.dg-5.co.jp/). Although our cars are converted to FR, basic settings and the
suspension layout are the same as the street version with AWD. The basic ride height is higher in the front and lower in
the rear.
For the spring rates, we use very soft springs in the rear. For the shock absorber, we mainly use the stiff part of the
suspension for slower travel time. The reasons for this set up would be to be able to have enough weight on the rear
tires. By having softer springs in the rear, it becomes easier and quicker to add weight in the rear and by doing so, rear
tires can start sliding smoothly and drifting can be initiated anytime the drivers want. Even after the cars start drifting, the
softer suspension can hold and maintain the weight in the rear; drivers can easily use precise throttle control to control
drifting.
If the ride height for the rear is high and the springs are stiff, the tires will have too much grip, and it will be very difficult to
have the back end swing. Even if you are able to start drifting, you will be sliding without being able to use the
accelerator to control the drift; this is not a good thing-and say hello to Mr. Wall!
Subiesport Magazine
http://mag.subiesport.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 26 June, 2011, 15:04
With alignment, the basic rule is to keep the toe within stock specs, but it is all up to your liking. The Impreza tends to
have bump steer (unwanted change with the front wheels move inward (toe-in) when the suspension moves up and
down), it may be better if you set the toe a little outward (toe-out) if you think your front tends to oversteer. For my setting,
I have 15mm of toe-out and for faster tracks, I have even more toe out. For the rear alignment, I have a slight toe-in
setting. Thanks to the characteristics of the Impreza’s rear suspension and geometry, not much change with the
toe-in is needed in the rear.
For the camber, since the FR Impreza tends to oversteer a lot, you really need to think more about counter steering
rather than steering into the turn when you approach the corner. Therefore, I have more front camber angle. (See my
special recipe below!) Although Imprezas have lower placement of the flat-4 engines, the engine sits in front of the front
struts. Because of the engine placement, the front feels “softer.” Instead of having stiffer springs to correct
this, I use other parts to stiffen the chassis for better handling. Below is my secret Kumakubo recipe for a FR Impreza.
Suspension Kit: DG-5 http://www.dg-5.co.jp/
Springs: SWIFT Springs, Front: 12kg/mm Rear 6kg/mm http://www.swiftsprings.com/
Toe: Front 15mm out/Rear 10mm in
Camber: Front 5 degrees/Rear 2 degrees
These specific settings are just for the D1 Impreza and not meant to be used for street cars. Please do not use the
settings on public roads.
So there it is! This is the suspension settings for our D1 cars. In one of my future columns, I will speak about how to
convert your ride to FR.
If you happen to see our orange beasts at any of the events that we participate in, feel free to ask any of our crews to
show you more of our D1 cars. It is not that difficult to replicate and build a similar Impreza as our special D1 USA cars.
You know, FR converted Impreza is Kanari Omoshiroi! (hella fun!) I want to see what Subiesport readers can do to their
Subies! Show me your rides, America!
Kumakubo, Out!
kumakubo@subiesport.com
HERE IS A BREAKDOWN:
Front spring rate increase:
More under steer; increase in proportional weight transfer to the front when rear wheel rate is not increased; reduces front traction when rear rate is not changed.
Usable adjustment: 150-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: terminal under steer; front of car hops in corners; excessive wheel spin on inside front tire on FF cars.
Front spring rate decrease:
Less under steer; decreases proportional weight transfer to the front when rear wheel rate is not increased; increases front traction when rear rate is not changed.
Usable adjustment: 150-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of to much adjustment: Too much over steer; over steer then under steer if spring is so soft that the car bottoms out on lean, car bottoms out excessively with a jolting ride.
Rear spring rate increase:
More over steer; increase in proportional weight transfer to the rear when front wheel rate is not increased; increases rear traction when front rate is not changed.
Usable range: 100-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: too much over steer; sidestep hop in corners; twitchy; pretty scary.
Rear spring rate decrease:
Less over steer: decreases proportional weight transfer to the rear when front wheel rate is not changed; increases rear traction when front rate is not changed
Usable range: 100-600 lbs/in
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car under steers; if way to soft car under steers then over steers as car bottoms out on lean; car bottoms out excessively with a jolting ride.
Front anti-roll bar stiffer: more under steer
Usable range: none to 1.25 inches in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: terminal under steer; lifts inside front tire off the ground witch can cause massive wheel spin on FF cars; also not good for most effective tire usage as inside tire is now doing nothing.
Front anti-roll bar softer: less under steer
Usable range: none to 1.25 inches in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: overstate scary; more like fun
Rear anti-roll bar stiffer: more over steer
Usable range: none to 1 inch in diameter
Symptoms of too much adjustment: Big-time over steer. Can cause inside rear tire to lift off the ground.
Rear anti-roll bar softer: less over steer
Usable range: none to 1 inch in diameter
Symptoms of to much adjustment: under steer; slow and boring
More negative camber front: less under steer because of better lateral traction as tread is flatter on the ground under side load.
Usable range: up to 3.5 degrees negative
Symptoms of too much adjustment: poor braking; car is road crown sensitive; twitchy; front tires wear on inside edge
More negative camber rear: less over steer because of better lateral traction as tread is flatter on the ground under side load. More rear grip
Usable range: up to 2.5 degrees negative
Symptoms of too much adjustment: more over steer; car feels twitchy in back; tires wear out on inside edge; less breakaway warning when limit is exceeded.
Ride height to low (typical beginner mistake): car is twitchy with unpredictable dynamics. Bump steer make you life miserable.
Usable range: usually 1.5-2.0 inches lower then stock unless car has been modified to go lower.
Symptoms of too much adjustment: everything that could possibly go wrong: sudden over/under steer; twitchy due to bump steer; very harsh ride; premature tire wear.
Toe in – front: car is stable going straight. Turn in is average
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car has slow twitchiness under braking; feels odd; kills outside edge of tires
Toe out – front: Car turns in well; works pretty well on FF car as they tend to toe-in under load.
Usable range: 0-1/4 inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: Car is really twitchy under braking; car wanders on straight road; kills inside edge of tire
Toe in – rear: car is less likely to over steer when the throttle is lifted
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: weird, slow, rocking movement in back; feels slow but still unstable; wears outside edge of tires.
Toe out – rear: Helps car rotate useful in low speed and slalom courses; very common on FF pro rally cars.
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: not to good for street driving; causes lift throttle over steer; makes violent side to side rocking motions in the rear; tie wears on inside more.
Last edited:
