AUDIO: Inline Passive Crossover Low Pass RCA

[Soulfresh_ACV]

Anyone have any experience with inline crossover FMOD Low-pass available on Amazon?

Unadjustable but inexpensive less than USD$20. Comes in 50Hz, 70Hz, 100Hz, 150Hz, 200Hz, 500Hz, 1000Hz, 2500Hz, 3500Hz, 6500Hz, 20KHz

At a glance, it's suppose to cut out frequency range before the signal goes into the amplifier so that amplification is targeted only for the required frequency range which in this case low-frequencies for tactile transducers so that nothing is wasted from the amplifier output.

In-line crossover
Besides passive crossovers that operate on speaker-level signals and connect between your amp and your speaker components, there are also in-line crossovers that connect before the amplifier. They look like little cylinders with RCA connectors on each end and simply plug into your amplifier’s inputs. In-line crossovers make sure your amplifiers don’t waste energy amplifying signals you don’t want — like high frequencies to a subwoofer amp. Installing an in-line crossover is a great and inexpensive way to sharpen the sounds of your system, especially in a component speaker system.

Source: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IztZ6qu92MS/learn/learningcenter/car/crossovers.html

Which frequency range to get?
According to wiki page on subwoofer frequency range...

The frequency response specification of a speaker describes the range of frequencies or musical tones a speaker can reproduce, measured in hertz (Hz).[16] The typical frequency range for a subwoofer is between 20–200 Hz.[1] Professional concert sound system subwoofers typically operate below 100 Hz,[2] and THX-approved systems operate below 80 Hz

Why do I need them?
I'm in the process of investing on tactile transducer setups with small budget for two main purposes:

1. Sim racing rig, primarily for sim racing games (PC with Simvibe + 1 amp + 1 ADX tactile transducers + 1 x Sound card)
2. Couch, for watching movies, tv, console gaming, etc. (TV audio output + 1 amp + 1 ADX tactile transducers)

* Using the same amp (Skytec SPL300 2x150w) for dual setup purpose depending on the audio source.

If like me you're interested on tactile transducers (or informally known as "Bass kicker") but want to understand and look for alternatives rather than Buttkickers. I highly recommend and urge you to read the thread created by @Mr Latte on the subject matter, Tactile Info & Buyers Guide / Comparisons / Opinions - Work In Progress.

PC with Simvibe negates the need for any of this but the second setup for the couch is where I'm looking at getting the Inline passive crossover low pass RCA since the amp that will be powering the transducers doesn't have low-pass filter. Looking primarily to get the bass thumps from the tactile transducer to complement audible, distinguishable bass sounds.

These are the ones I'm undecided on getting for general purpose audio source for tactile transducers:

• FMOD Crossover Pair 200 Hz Low Pass
  
• FMOD Crossover Pair 150 Hz Low Pass
  
• FMOD Crossover Pair 100 Hz Low Pass
• FMOD Crossover Pair 70 Hz Low Pass

Appreciate any respectful and constructive discussions/tips to help decide which one to get or even alternatives other than the ones listed.

 

[Sick Cylinder]

Anyone have any experience with inline crossover FMOD Low-pass available on Amazon?

Unadjustable but inexpensive less than USD$20. Comes in 50Hz, 70Hz, 100Hz, 150Hz, 200Hz, 500Hz, 1000Hz, 2500Hz, 3500Hz, 6500Hz, 20KHz

At a glance, it's suppose to cut out frequency range before the signal goes into the amplifier so that amplification is targeted only for the required frequency range which in this case low-frequencies for tactile transducers so that nothing is wasted from the amplifier output.






Which frequency range to get?
According to wiki page on subwoofer frequency range...




Why do I need them?
I'm in the process of investing on tactile transducer setups with small budget for two main purposes:

1. Sim racing rig, primarily for sim racing games (PC with Simvibe + 1 amp + 1 ADX tactile transducers + 1 x Sound card)
2. Couch, for watching movies, tv, console gaming, etc. (TV audio output + 1 amp + 1 ADX tactile transducers)

* Using the same amp (Skytec SPL300 2x150w) for dual setup purpose depending on the audio source.

If like me you're interested on tactile transducers (or informally known as "Bass kicker") but want to understand and look for alternatives rather than Buttkickers. I highly recommend and urge you to read the thread created by @Mr Latte on the subject matter, Tactile Info & Buyers Guide / Comparisons / Opinions - Work In Progress.

PC with Simvibe negates the need for any of this but the second setup for the couch is where I'm looking at getting the Inline passive crossover low pass RCA since the amp that will be powering the transducers doesn't have low-pass filter. Looking primarily to get the bass thumps from the tactile transducer to complement audible, distinguishable bass sounds.

These are the ones I'm undecided on getting for general purpose audio source for tactile transducers:

• FMOD Crossover Pair 200 Hz Low Pass
  
• FMOD Crossover Pair 150 Hz Low Pass
  
• FMOD Crossover Pair 100 Hz Low Pass
• FMOD Crossover Pair 70 Hz Low Pass

Appreciate any respectful and constructive discussions/tips to help decide which one to get or even alternatives other than the ones listed.

I haven't bought any of these myself, but have read about them. The only review I saw was from someone who bought a 70Hz one and found that it still allowed 140 Hz through.

My experience with transducers (Buttkicker, Aura Pro and Sinus Live) is that you want to cut out audible frequencies otherwise your transducer acts and sounds on higher frequencies like a cheap and nasty loudspeaker. I use transducers with a PS3 for GT6 and use the stereo multi-out full range audio signal. I set the filters on my amps to cut out frequencies below 100Hz.

I don't use transducers for home cinema, but from reading on the subject most people set the frequency lower than for gaming (intead of 100Hz try 40Hz or lower) to avoid unwanted distraction from getting rumble effects at inappropriate times. To use with home cinema you would need to use the 0.1 subwoofer signal i.e. not a full range audio signal.

I did experiment a bit with home cinema, but gave up on the idea of using my gaming system to do both jobs - for one you want the maximum effect (gaming) for the other you want a very subtle effect that doesn't intrude on the viewing experience and just cuts in when a spaceship lands for instance.

My advice is don't bother buying anything to control or alter frequencies until you have thoroughly tested your system with simvibe first - you may find that you are happy with the effect as it is. You may get the impression from reading other threads that it is vital to spend a lot of money on equipment and have a complicated system to get a satisfactory tactile effect - this is not necessarily the case - you need to spend a lot of money to get the perfect effect, but you may be satisfied with something that is not perfect.

Mounting and isolation are very important - do plenty of testing with subwoofer test tones.

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

I haven't bought any of these myself, but have read about them. The only review I saw was from someone who bought a 70Hz one and found that it still allowed 140 Hz through.

My experience with transducers (Buttkicker, Aura Pro and Sinus Live) is that you want to cut out audible frequencies otherwise your transducer acts and sounds on higher frequencies like a cheap and nasty loudspeaker. I use transducers with a PS3 for GT6 and use the stereo multi-out full range audio signal. I set the filters on my amps to cut out frequencies below 100Hz.

I don't use transducers for home cinema, but from reading on the subject most people set the frequency lower than for gaming (intead of 100Hz try 40Hz or lower) to avoid unwanted distraction from getting rumble effects at inappropriate times. To use with home cinema you would need to use the 0.1 subwoofer signal i.e. not a full range audio signal.

I did experiment a bit with home cinema, but gave up on the idea of using my gaming system to do both jobs - for one you want the maximum effect (gaming) for the other you want a very subtle effect that doesn't intrude on the viewing experience and just cuts in when a spaceship lands for instance.

My advice is don't bother buying anything to control or alter frequencies until you have thoroughly tested your system with simvibe first - you may find that you are happy with the effect as it is. You may get the impression from reading other threads that it is vital to spend a lot of money on equipment and have a complicated system to get a satisfactory tactile effect - this is not necessarily the case - you need to spend a lot of money to get the perfect effect, but you may be satisfied with something that is not perfect.

Mounting and isolation are very important - do plenty of testing with subwoofer test tones.

Really appreciate your time on this. I do agree though since I'm starting out without having any prior experience I should be easily impressed with decent and reasonably priced setup to start off with. I'll be reading a bit more on "0.1 subwoofer signal" since this is new to me. What's the best way to mount it? I'm thinking of directly to a piece of 16mm wood which will then attach to the bottom of the seat.

Anyway, I bought this little device below just today. But thankfully do have customisable frequency range that I can at least try out whatever suits be it gaming or movie etc.

Thanks once again for your input. After your advise on FMOD fixed frequency range, did more research and bought this little inexpensive device instead, more or less the same price as a FMOD.

Have RCA in & output, gain control and crossover control from 150Hz-40Hz.




This will be used for general purpose like console/movie/tv basically any non-simvibe audio source. Thought I share this in case anyone share similar setup requirements where their amp doesn't have a crossover/low-pass feature/subwoofer output. It's a poor man's alternative lol.


Hope that the crossover signal output is clean and work as described. Will be next week when I receive this and the ADX transducer.

Update: Amazon sells it for less than USD$15 and comes in various names

 

[JohnBodin]

Those look like inductive-only filters, I would guess, not a proper "LC" crossover filter which uses inductors and capacitors to filter out specific ranges.

No big surprise that Sick Cylinder's showed that the 70Hz filter still let through 140Hz, if that's the case.

 

[Sick Cylinder]

Really appreciate your time on this. I do agree though since I'm starting out without having any prior experience I should be easily impressed with decent and reasonably priced setup to start off with. I'll be reading a bit more on "0.1 subwoofer signal" since this is new to me. What's the best way to mount it? I'm thinking of directly to a piece of 16mm wood which will then attach to the bottom of the seat.

Anyway, I bought this little device below just today. But thankfully do have customisable frequency range that I can at least try out whatever suits be it gaming or movie etc.

Looks like a useful device - let us know how you get on.

By "0.1" I mean the .1 in 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound. With a tactile home cinema system you split the .1 signal which your sound system is sending to your subwoofer. Normally this signal is unamplified and the subwoofer is active (contains an amp) so you just split the signal with a Y splitter. With a cheap home cinema in a box solution, because the satellite speakers are small frequencies below 140Hz (sometimes even 200Hz) are sent to the .1 subwoofer channel. Use a low pass filter to restrict the signal which you have split down to a low enough frequency. However unless you set it very low it is likely to include elements of male actors voices and bass elements from the film music. This is why the best transducers for home cinema use operate at very low frequencies, below the limits of the human ear - The large BK LFE unit and the Earthquake 10B are designed for home cinema. Someone using these units would normally be using a high end audio system and the signal going onto their .1 for their subwoofer would only contain low Hz effects - they would still use a filter on the split signal to get just the lowest effects to their tactile unit.


"What's the best way to mount it? I'm thinking of directly to a piece of 16mm wood which will then attach to the bottom of the seat."

If you are using wood, MDF is good. I have had good results with offcuts of kitchen worktop - I don't know if it being laminated on both sides with formica increases the effect (probably not), but it gave good effects in leather recliners fitted with Aura Bass shakers.

It will take some trial and error to get a good mounting - screws may be ok at first, but for long term mounting use bolts with Nylok nuts (they don't vibrate loose). I fit a mudguard washer on the nut side to spread the load / stop the nut biting into the wood and hence working loose following the intense vibrations (mudguard washer has a small hole and is wide - looks like a coin with a small hole through the middle - NB they used to be used to fit mudguards onto sports cars like the Lotus 7 and the width of the washer prevented the mudguard from cracking).

For cables - any cheap cable will do for testing, but for a permanent install fit thick cable to reduce electrical resistance / loss of signal. You don't need to worry about the oxygen content of the cable so you can use cheap, but fairly thick copper cable.

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

Looks like a useful device - let us know how you get on.

By "0.1" I mean the .1 in 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound. With a tactile home cinema system you split the .1 signal which your sound system is sending to your subwoofer. Normally this signal is unamplified and the subwoofer is active (contains an amp) so you just split the signal with a Y splitter. With a cheap home cinema in a box solution, because the satellite speakers are small frequencies below 140Hz (sometimes even 200Hz) are sent to the .1 subwoofer channel. Use a low pass filter to restrict the signal which you have split down to a low enough frequency. However unless you set it very low it is likely to include elements of male actors voices and bass elements from the film music. This is why the best transducers for home cinema use operate at very low frequencies, below the limits of the human ear - The large BK LFE unit and the Earthquake 10B are designed for home cinema. Someone using these units would normally be using a high end audio system and the signal going onto their .1 for their subwoofer would only contain low Hz effects - they would still use a filter on the split signal to get just the lowest effects to their tactile unit.


"What's the best way to mount it? I'm thinking of directly to a piece of 16mm wood which will then attach to the bottom of the seat."

If you are using wood, MDF is good. I have had good results with offcuts of kitchen worktop - I don't know if it being laminated on both sides with formica increases the effect (probably not), but it gave good effects in leather recliners fitted with Aura Bass shakers.

It will take some trial and error to get a good mounting - screws may be ok at first, but for long term mounting use bolts with Nylok nuts (they don't vibrate loose). I fit a mudguard washer on the nut side to spread the load / stop the nut biting into the wood and hence working loose following the intense vibrations (mudguard washer has a small hole and is wide - looks like a coin with a small hole through the middle - NB they used to be used to fit mudguards onto sports cars like the Lotus 7 and the width of the washer prevented the mudguard from cracking).

For cables - any cheap cable will do for testing, but for a permanent install fit thick cable to reduce electrical resistance / loss of signal. You don't need to worry about the oxygen content of the cable so you can use cheap, but fairly thick copper cable.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Just to bring your attention to another post if you haven't already notice, so that potentially some other people might also benefit your generosity and time on sharing your experience. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...comparisons-opinions-work-in-progress.327026/


Found a couple subwoofer test tones on YouTube but not sure if they are good enough. What would you use to test your setup?

 

[Sick Cylinder]

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Just to bring your attention to another post if you haven't already notice, so that potentially some other people might also benefit your generosity and time on sharing your experience. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...comparisons-opinions-work-in-progress.327026/


Found a couple subwoofer test tones on YouTube but not sure if they are good enough. What would you use to test your setup?

I use this test tone downloaded onto my PS3 to test mountings / transducers:

http://www.audiocheck.net/audiotests_frequencychecklow.php

There is a voice over which tells you which Hz sinewave is currently playing. Set your amp very low when playing this and gradually increase the volume - sinewave test tones can create massive amounts of shake.

I also use the replay function in GT5 or 6 after recording a lap on a circuit with a lot of effects e.g. an offroad rally track or Eiger Norwand which has a thump following a crest and a slatted cattle grid / bridge effect.

I have noticed the thread and have contributed to it. Mr Latte has been very helpful to me and inspired me to start my tactile transducer journey, however we approach this subject from a different direction - I want a reasonable effect, with a small budget, which adds to the immersion when gaming with a console, but Mr Latte has a higher budget and is constantly searching for the best possible effects - this obviously leads to greater cost and complication.