Jacnob's MR2: Quest for a New Water Pump

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jacnob

jacnob

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I finally got around to taking pictures today (2-11-14), and there are to many to insert into a single post (I think), so here's a few pictures (and a link to the rest).

29f8oko.jpg


2hx1yc8.jpg




Link to the whole album

The Issues:

Faulty Ignition Switch: frequently refuses to switch off all of the car and part of key broken off in it; got the switch and going to fix this this afternoon or tomorrow
I actually feel like a :dunce: about this one; apparently the turbo timer is the "issue" here, its keeping the engine idling on a timer after I kill the switch so the turbo can cool down.

Valve Cover Gasket: needs replacement; leaking a small amount of oil

Weird engine cut-out at around 3000RPM: I'm thinking this is due to the lack of a FCD; the boost comes in at about 2900RPM; although it may not be as even after the boost was turned down this still occurred

Various minor paint chips

Blown Fuse: Stereo refuses to work because of this.
Turns out this wasn't the issue; the previous owner (somehow) blew up the head unit. I have a old (circa 2000) one in there at the moment.
 
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So you should replace Ignition, Valve Cover, RPM Gauge might be because of the capacitor in the back I think. And new fuse :P
 
What code does the ECU throw up when it cuts out? You can find out by bridging the right terminals in the diagnostic terminal box (E1 & TE1) with a bit of wire or paper clip and turning the ignition to On. Then you count the flashes. For example code 54 will be flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash-flash-longer pause-flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash-flash etc on repeat. If you let me know the code I can give you some idea about what it is, I have a fair bit of info regarding the 3SGTE.
 
Nice MR2. Looks tidy in white. So jealous you have a turbo version. I have a 1990 NA G-Limited. They are great fun to drive. Hope you can get the little issues sorted out.
 
Sooo beautiful, love MR2's. What does the fuse keep blowing? Or it's just blown and you need to replace?
 
Punknoodle
What code does the ECU throw up when it cuts out? You can find out by bridging the right terminals in the diagnostic terminal box (E1 & TE1) with a bit of wire or paper clip and turning the ignition to On. Then you count the flashes. For example code 54 will be flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash-flash-longer pause-flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash-flash etc on repeat. If you let me know the code I can give you some idea about what it is, I have a fair bit of info regarding the 3SGTE.
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Thanks for the tip; I'll get out there and try that soon so I can get back to you on that.

GDII
Nice MR2. Looks tidy in white. So jealous you have a turbo version. I have a 1990 NA G-Limited. They are great fun to drive. Hope you can get the little issues sorted out.
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Thanks! I was surprised to find a turbo so close to home!

JrDarknes
Sooo beautiful, love MR2's. What does the fuse keep blowing? Or it's just blown and you need to replace?
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Just the single fuse is blown.
 
wrapture
What year is it? My dad would be jealous of your fog lights :lol:
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Its a '91 :D

UPDATE TIME!:
I replaced the fuse yesterday, and evidently that wasn't the issue with the stereo. My dad pulled it out to see if it was the wires, but they were all fine so....
 
What year is it? Most OBDII cars will cut the spark and add fuel if the knock sensor is triggered. Upping boost only with no other consideration can easily cause that. Is the factory boost control system still installed? Can you revert it back?
 
TouringBubble
What year is it? Most OBDII cars will cut the spark and add fuel if the knock sensor is triggered. Upping boost only with no other consideration can easily cause that. Is the factory boost control system still installed? Can you revert it back?
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Like I said a few posts up, its a '91. It has an aftermarket mechanical boost controller, and I'm not certain how much has been changed to get it on there.
 
Got ya. Most people leave the stock controller installed and plugged in to keep the car from throwing a code for it. So, there is a chance it's still there. Not sure where to look for it on a MR2 though. And a '91 wouldn't be OBDII, so I don't know what kind of knock control it may or may not have. How far did you turn down boost to test?
 
I turned it down as low as the controller would allow, which I assume should be close to stock (which is 8 PSi, give or take). That changed absolutely nothing; the engine STILL cuts out.
 
To be certain, you can remove the controller and connect the two vacuum lines to one another. This sends manifold pressure directly to the wastegate, giving you the lowest possible pressure the wastegate can run (which would probably be 7-8 psi). Even with a manual controller adjusted all the way loose there can still be spring pressure there increasing boost levels. Just be sure the lines to the controller are connected to one another, and not just left open. If no pressure gets to the wastegate it runs max boost and can break things quickly.

In case you didn't know, a boost controller works by limiting the amount of pressure that gets to the turbo's wastegate. Any restriction in the line to the wastegate will increase boost.
 
jacnob
Weird engine cut-out at around 3000RPM: I'm thinking this is due to the lack of a FCD; the boost comes in at about 2900RPM; although it may not be as even after the boost was turned down this still occurred
Click to expand...
I race in a first Gen MR2. We have run both with and without boost, currently NA.

You problem sounds like a CPU issue. I would suggest buying a new one at a junkyard and swapping. Not bad to have a backup, either way. We had similar issues in ours, and it turned out to be CPU. Will represent as several different issues, but ultimately comes back to the same thing.
 
Want to clarify my post, I believe on the MR2, they call it an ECU.

But hopefully you understood what I meant.
 
Update:
I've found that the issue with the stereo was that the Head Unit was busted for some reason. My dad and I replaced it with an old one we had laying around, and it now works! We also fixed the engine cutting out; it was a problem with that stupid boost controller.
 
Updating this because the only issue left is the Valve Cover Gasket and a minor exhaust leak!
 
Good to hear you fixed the major problems. Fixing the valve cover gasket isn't a major but the oil can leak into the alternator and cause that to die. I've never done that gasket on my car, the turbo looks like there is just as much work to replace it.

Hopefully you have lots of fun with this car, I know I have for the past 6 years I've owned mine.
 
UPDATE: I figured out why the AC isn't working? The belt is straight-up gone, so I'll have to replace that. My dad said that the belt also operated the power steering, so I guess I've been driving without it....
 
Sorry to say but your dad is incorrect. The PS is all at the front of the car. Electrohydraulic I think it's called. It has an electric pump in the front under the spare wheel.

To check if your AC might still be working after you buy a belt. With the engine off reach inside the engine bay and try turn the compressor pulley, if it spins freely then that's good, next turn your engine on, switch on the AC and fan then try and turn the compressor wheel again. If it doesn't spin there is a good chance the AC might still work.

Make sure the tensioner pulley is still there. To adjust it you need to loosen the bolt in the centre of the pulley then you can turn the adjustment bolt. Once the belt is tightened correctly tighten the centre bolt.

The AC on my MR2 wasn't working when I bought it, turned out to be a broken ground wire to the magnetic clutch on the compressor. Fixed it and now it works. Not super cold on hot days but helps a lot.
 
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Knocking this up to the top (although the only reason it died was due to my laziness and a lack of changes :dunce:) with a quick update. I've had the valve cover fixed for a while, but now there's a new problem; the car doesn't want to start, and it takes around 15 minutes of trying to get the car moving. My father says that the cause of the problem is the starter solenoid so there's that.

As far as changes go, all I've done is fix that exhaust leak, cleaned up the interior, fixed the annoying engine cut by removing the turbo timer, and finally, replaced the ac belt.

TL:DR; car doesn't want to start, supposedly starter solenoid is source of problem, all thats been done since last time is maintenance.
 
Update:
No major modifications to capture in image form, but the starter's fixed. So, for now, other than the windows refusing to roll up unless the doors are open, there's not anything that desperately needs to be fixed.
 

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