Logi Driving Force pro Pedal BUG

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ive tried 3 separate Logi Driving force pro 900 wheels now with the Japanese ver GT4
and ive found that some error is causing the accelerator pedal to go crazy and then lose input alltogether in the accelerator indicator on screen whilst driving and the only way to fix it is to unplug the pedals to reset them then it works ok for a whilr and happpens again. only the the acelarator pedals and it cant be the wheels or the ps2 cause every other game works fine.
Anyone with the driving force pro have this problem. :ill:
 
I had a similar problem but it was with GT4:P and I solved it by complaining to Logitech, result, they sent me a new GT force Pro and it works fine now, check more info on the Driving Force Pro thread 👍
 
Use the search button. This topic has been discussed many times. Basically, DFP pedals suck, the potenciometers in them go out of place every now and then.
 
Koolad
Use the search button. This topic has been discussed many times. Basically, DFP pedals suck, the potenciometers in them go out of place every now and then.

The cable slack in the pedal unit is not long enough.
Pressing the pedals can cause the connectors to pull off the potentionemeters(sp?)
Once they are loose, input goes crazy.

The only soloution is to open them up, and re-align the cables with more slack.
Once fixed, the pedals are fine.

This problem has been ongoing since DFP release, it seems logitech have yet to address the problem.
So even if you get a new set, you could well end up with the problem again.
 
I am to buy a DFP soon, maybe next week, and after reading these reports, i am afraid that mine will have the same problem. Do this happens due to the user driving style, or it´s quite normal to have such bugs?

While reading the "Logitech Driving Force pro thread" i haven´t find anything looked like. There´s some time i don´t read there, but when i last read, the reports of it´s quality were good.
 
Don't worry about it, it's a very rare fault and, as you can see, repairable and covered under warranty. The DFP is peerless as a peripheral for GT4. Get one!
 
Lapdog
Don't worry about it, it's a very rare fault and, as you can see, repairable and covered under warranty. The DFP is peerless as a peripheral for GT4. Get one!

Nice...thanx for the advice, even buying it from a website and not store, Does Logitech cover it under warranty so, if there´s a problem, so they send another one and u send your to them?
 
I've had the same issue with GT3, it does suck, but it is bareable. I've had it for 2 weeks and it's happened 3 or 4 times, but I've also put in quite a bit of hours. I was going to return it, but it looks like I'll still end up with this problem. As long as it doesn't completely go out on me, I have no issues.
 
I own the DFP since 10 days and it´s a really fabulous piece of Hardware (i already posted this in some threads regarding this wheel).

But yesterday the same bug began !

But it only happens while playing DTM RACE Driver 2 !!!

Need for Speed Underground 2, GT4 Prologue and the GT4 Japan Demo work fine and without the bug !!!!

At DTM Race Driver 2 I drive 2 or 3 races without any problems, then suddenly the throttle only goes to maybe 80 or 85 %.

I hope, that the store will replace it on monday, cause it´s just 10 days old.
But then there is a chance to get the same problem with a new one !!!

What should i do ???
 
The wheel itself is superb; nearly a year enjoying it. But pedals suck. I have to fix them once a month or so. It's a bit annoying, but even so, I highly recommend it for every racing game in PC/playstation2
 
Just as an random question in a somewhat related thread... do the pedals actually produce 100% braking and throttle action..?

I remember the DF wheel from Logitech would not go past like.. 70% for the brake... ever :P Wondering if they fixxed that...
 
Koolad
The wheel itself is superb; nearly a year enjoying it. But pedals suck. I have to fix them once a month or so. It's a bit annoying, but even so, I highly recommend it for every racing game in PC/playstation2


How do u fix it? Do you open the pedals and change what?
 
I fixed my pedals permanently! :)

I found a calibration issue was caused by having too much play in the pedal itself. I took the pedal out, and wrapped a couple of layers or sellotape around each side of the joint end and regreased over it. Now the pedals are rock solid! :)

Another issue was the pots themselves could develop a little play, so i filled the hole that the potentiometer knub (sticky offy thingy) slots into with a weak, but stiff glue. Now the pots can't move.

Last issue was with the dirt accumulation. I attached a soft plastic flap to the underside of each pedal hole, so that the loose end could slide up and down the pedal. It's practically sealed now. :)

The wheel is just awesome. I've flogged it sooo hard (we're talking tens of thousands of laps) and it still has no play! I just wish we could move the shifter to either side. :P
 
veilsidebr
ahn i am starting to be afraid of geting one and pass by the same problem; =/

I felt the same when I was about to buy my DFP, but ive had it for over a month now and used it quite abit with no problems what so ever.
 
veilsidebr
How do u fix it? Do you open the pedals and change what?

What I do is cleaning everything up concerning the pots, and then I place them back where they should be. That works, but it's not for ever.

I knew cubits' permanent solution, but I'm afraid I can't roll back in case of further misfunction... I don't know if I'll ever try...
 
Koolad
What I do is cleaning everything up concerning the pots, and then I place them back where they should be. That works, but it's not for ever.

I knew cubits' permanent solution, but I'm afraid I can't roll back in case of further misfunction... I don't know if I'll ever try...

Logitech should correct as quick as possible such faced problems. I dunno why they can´t(or don´t want) to correct this, as many users had past faced through these problems and called them to change their wheels for another brand new ones.
 
GT Tester
ive tried 3 separate Logi Driving force pro 900 wheels now with the Japanese ver GT4
and ive found that some error is causing the accelerator pedal to go crazy and then lose input alltogether in the accelerator indicator on screen whilst driving and the only way to fix it is to unplug the pedals to reset them then it works ok for a whilr and happpens again. only the the acelarator pedals and it cant be the wheels or the ps2 cause every other game works fine.
Anyone with the driving force pro have this problem. :ill:

I had this issue with GT4p, but have not had any issue with my NTSC-J PS2, North American DFP and GT4...

Then again I've spent at least 4 hours cleaning, taping and fixing the pots and pedals on the DFP (they suck HARD)...since I found that out months ago I've not had any problems with my DFP.



cubits
I fixed my pedals permanently! :)

I found a calibration issue was caused by having too much play in the pedal itself. I took the pedal out, and wrapped a couple of layers or sellotape around each side of the joint end and regreased over it. Now the pedals are rock solid! :)

Another issue was the pots themselves could develop a little play, so i filled the hole that the potentiometer knub (sticky offy thingy) slots into with a weak, but stiff glue. Now the pots can't move.


Yup! There you go, your solutions...worked for me months ago.
 
My problem with the dfp seems to be NOT mechanical !!!!

If the bug occures (only with DTM RACE Driver 2) i can exit the race and go to the calibration screen. Now, when I push the throttle, the Scale only goes to 80-85 % !

If I plug out the pedals now, push the full throttle again and plug in the pedals at the same time, the bug seems to be fixed (at least for a few races).

This can´t be mechanical ! What do you think ???

Besides, this only happens with DTM RACE DRIVER 2 ! If i insert NFSU2 or the GT4 Japanese Demo everything works fine !

So, please give me a hint !
 
That's a mechanical issue. You're over-extending the pot by a slight margin, which is screwing up the autocalibration (it's constantly updated). The pedal is moving too much.

When you unplug the pedals it resets the throttle max level calibration.

Wrap tape around the pedal joint and regrease it, then reinsert the pedal. You may also want to stuff a little something in the pot knub hole to make the pot a tighter fit, just incase.

That will cure the issue, and it is mechanical.
 
Lapdog
Don't worry about it, it's a very rare fault and, as you can see, repairable and covered under warranty. The DFP is peerless as a peripheral for GT4. Get one!

it's not rare at all, it WILL happen to you after only a month or two of use (even if it's just casual use.) however, the problem can be fixed permanently, but people have to be aware that untill logitech fixes this problem, EVRYONE will have the problem sooner or later.
in my case i allready knew of the problem before it happened to me, so once it did i was not surprised at all. i ended up buying pedals that cost more than the wheel itself, but you don't need to do that, you can just fix them.
 
SaintKamus
i ended up buying pedals that cost more than the wheel itself, but you don't need to do that, you can just fix them.

I've heard you mention this a few times. What pedals did you buy?

BTW - Do you have GT4 yet?
 
I've been using my DFP for well over 6 months. In that time i've put in somewhere around 5,000-6,000 miles worth of race distance on them and taken them on two long trips to MLG events to atlanta and chciago "1500 or so real miles bumping around in a truck". Not one single mechanical problem yet. I've only had the retarded wheel problem once in GT3, and that was because I stupidly mashed HARD on the brake pedal and caused it to go to far, that in turn made the wheel go all goofed up.
 
kensei
I've heard you mention this a few times. What pedals did you buy?

BTW - Do you have GT4 yet?

nope, i don't have GT4 yet.... the guy that was supposed to get it for me still hasn't gotten it.. he says next week... if GT4 is announced by then in the US with a close by release date i'll tell him to sell it to somebody else, he has made me wait too long, and i'll get the US version instead (along with a new PS2).

the pedals i got are the ECCI pedals, they cost about 440 bucks or so with shipping (shiping is expensive because of the weight about 40 bucks) and pressure brake pedal (makes the brake pedal feel a lot more realistic.)

they are worth evry penny and will last a life time, but it's defenetly a heafty investment, wich in my case i was willing to make because if i'm gonna spend so much time playing racing games, (i use the wheel on the PC also) then i figure i'll make my time worth it by having the best posible experience, and trust me, they make a huge difference. they feel like real car pedals.. in fact, they make my real car pedals seem cheap, very cheap.

you have two alternatives, you can either get those pedals, or get the FREX pedals, both are the best pedals you can get, both cost about the same, only the look is different.
the FREX pedals look exactly like the pedals you'll find in some supercars, they look like McLaren F1 pedals (even the springs and metal behind the pedals) they look awsome.. the ECCI pedals on the other hand look like regular car pedals but more massive (when i mean regular, i mean regular sports / racing car pedals, they even have drill holes to make them look more genuine...)

the ECCI pedals are HEAVY and big, and just feel right, in the end i got the ECCI pedals because in the end i asked my self... wich cars will i drive the most in GT4 and other games? supercars? or more down to earth cars? when my friends and i get together for i-Link battles (soon to be LAN.. hopefully soon) we always pick regular cars more than super cars or heavily tuned cars. so that made up my mind... but you can't go wrong either way, both look amazing and both are built to last, the pots will probably give in after 5 years of heavy duty use (meaning, comercial, 12 hrs a day use.) so no worries there. but just in case i bought an aditional pair of pots for 18 bucks.

again, you can't go wrong either way, so check them out if you're instrested.

http://www.frex.com/gp/

http://www.ecci6000.com/

both pedals plug right into the DFP, just make sure you get the version for the DFP, they have pedals for other wheels, ECCI even has their own wheel wich doesn't work on the PS2 and costs about 1000 bucks, but people that have it swear by it, of course, only for PC games.
if you PC game a lot you can add a clutch (expensive add on, i still haven't bought it.). the clutch is great for PC games and plugs into a USB port to the PC, it looks completley genuine once you add a clutch, but since the game i'll play the most doesn't have clutch support. i saw no reason to get one yet... but if any of the PC games i'm waiting for turn out as good as i think they will, i might get it (mainly waiting to see how R-factor shapes up, looks very promising.)

anyway, give those things a look, and if you decide to get them, i can tell you, you won't regret it, even at that over the top price.
 
kensei
I've heard you mention this a few times. What pedals did you buy?

BTW - Do you have GT4 yet?


man, i went into too much detail explaining the pedals, i guess i forgot a picture is worth 1,000 words.

left = FREX
right = ECCI
 

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SaintKamus
anyway, give those things a look, and if you decide to get them, i can tell you, you won't regret it, even at that over the top price.

SaintKamus, please tell me, did you get the 3 pedal setup or the 2 pedal ones. Thanks...
 
maxter
SaintKamus, please tell me, did you get the 3 pedal setup or the 2 pedal ones. Thanks...

like i said, i saw no reason to get a clutch since GT4 doesn't support it, and since the games i might use it on for the PC aren't out yet, there was just no reason.

however, if i get heavily into rfactor which looks promising, i might get it along with a shifter.
 
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