Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Bobsbob]

I use 125 in the controller vibration and 100% on the wheel. I've heard others say that there can be issues if you go over 125 vibration in game (GT7) but never felt anything to bad when I had it set to 150.

I like a strong wheel, so I use a drivehub to get past the 7-8nm cap and use it at the full 11nm. I also have the dampener set to around 50-60 and FFB filter set to 1 (found that setting it to 1 reduces oscillation for me).

I had some time to try these settings (Drivehub on the way so waiting for 11nm) and this was exactly what I was after thank you.

I’m am going to try dialing back the dampener next session and see what effect that has.

I have an alloy rig, bk gamer 2 and 8 Dayton audio transducers on my seat so increasing in game vibration setting has hit the sweet spot and I get great feeling from the wheel now that’s not drowned out by everything else.

Thanks for the help.

Bring on 11nm!

 

[Yes No]

I had some time to try these settings (Drivehub on the way so waiting for 11nm) and this was exactly what I was after thank you.

I’m am going to try dialing back the dampener next session and see what effect that has.

I have an alloy rig, bk gamer 2 and 8 Dayton audio transducers on my seat so increasing in game vibration setting has hit the sweet spot and I get great feeling from the wheel now that’s not drowned out by everything else.

Thanks for the help.

Bring on 11nm!

Awesome! I prefer a heavy dampener but many prefer to set it at around 10-20. A lot of these settings are really up to the individuals preference. Just go with whatever feels good for you.. you should never feel like you are struggling to fight the wheel.

The only setting that I've found that can be a bit funky is in regards to the FFB filter. I have found that I get a lot less oscillation (wheel kinda shaking left and right) by setting it to 1 instead of the recommended level of 7. This is especially noticable when using a drivehub set at the full 150% boost for 11nm torque.

If you want to test that filter to try and replicate what I'm talking about you can go to the high speed ring and use a Porsche 962c... I think I used one of Praiano's tunes on it but can't remember. That car had a crazy amount of oscillation until I changed the FFB filter to 1.

 

[Supercededman]

Awesome! I prefer a heavy dampener but many prefer to set it at around 10-20. A lot of these settings are really up to the individuals preference. Just go with whatever feels good for you.. you should never feel like you are struggling to fight the wheel.

The only setting that I've found that can be a bit funky is in regards to the FFB filter. I have found that I get a lot less oscillation (wheel kinda shaking left and right) by setting it to 1 instead of the recommended level of 7. This is especially noticable when using a drivehub set at the full 150% boost for 11nm torque.

If you want to test that filter to try and replicate what I'm talking about you can go to the high speed ring and use a Porsche 962c... I think I used one of Praiano's tunes on it but can't remember. That car had a crazy amount of oscillation until I changed the FFB filter to 1.

Testing oscillation and FFB strength is also fun on a tight oval speedway. Think Northern Isle Speedway :-)

 

[Met Entso]

Yes it looks like the issue that I remembered, splitting around the plug area. Whilst they shouldn't split at all they do drop straight down in your picture, so perhaps a bit of support might help hold them up more.

I've clipped mine together and to the wheel mount on my rig so there's not any pull on them.
View attachment 1353567

They are the USB cables so could be replaced with alternatives - if you couldn't get any from Logitech support. The mini one is shaped to fit in the base though, so might need a bit of modification.

This is a good solution, checking for my cables I just have seen that the power cable was crossing over the next cable and actually starting to melt the plastic

 

[Yes No]

Testing oscillation and FFB strength is also fun on a tight oval speedway. Think Northern Isle Speedway :-)

I'm not sure if it was a bug or maybe a unique issue with high speed ring but that track was the first one that I raced on and experienced a rather aggressive amount of oscillation.

I can't remember exactly how long ago it was when it happened but I do know that it happened while I was testing the boost mode on the drivehub before it was publicly announced. Podger let me do early testing on the boost mode while his leadership debated if they should publicly release it. The first few days of testing went super smooth... But then I raced the weekly challenge at the high speed ring with the 962c... And holy crap it was a hell of a fight keeping that car straight lol.

I'm 99.9% sure it was an issue on PDs side because it got better the next update.

I still wanted to keep testing that track and see if I could get rid of most of the oscillation while keeping the full 11nm torque. Sent Podger a message to let him know what was going on and then decided to play with the in game settings and wheel settings.

For the in game settings, this is what I tried...I tried bringing the controller vibration down to around 25, but nope, no change. I tried turning the FFB sensitivity down to around 3, and nope, no change. I didn't want to reduce the torque in game so I left that alone.

For the wheel settings, this is what I tried.... Left the torque at 11nm since that's the end goal. Tried reducing the dampener to around 5, nope no change. I tried changing the trueforce from 100% down to 10%, nope no change.

Last thing to try out was the FFB filter... And now is the part that didn't make sense. If you go in GHub and read the description for the FFB filter, it basically says that setting it to 15 will pretty much smooth out any deviations in the FFB, basically should make the wheel feel very smooth without any/or little jerkiness. On the opposite side, a setting of 1 will give you the absolute minimum filtering and provides the wheel a very raw ffb signal (very fast response/jerkiness to bumps, surface changes etc).

I started by putting it on auto to see what would happen. I think the oscillation actually got worse. Changed it to 15 and it basically felt the same as when I had it set early to 7 or 8 (this was the ffb filter setting that I had when I first had the oscillation issue). I continued to bring it down 1 step at a time but the oscillation issue was exactly the same at every level. I finally set it to 1 and wow! 90% of the oscillation issue was immediately removed! There still is a bit of oscillation, but that can be overcome by holding the wheel properly with both hands and using some arm muscle for stabilisation.


Most of you probably didn't want to read that, or bother reading it....lol no worries, it's nothing important, just something I found interesting and wanted to share.

 

[Bobsbob]

I'm not sure if it was a bug or maybe a unique issue with high speed ring but that track was the first one that I raced on and experienced a rather aggressive amount of oscillation.

I can't remember exactly how long ago it was when it happened but I do know that it happened while I was testing the boost mode on the drivehub before it was publicly announced. Podger let me do early testing on the boost mode while his leadership debated if they should publicly release it. The first few days of testing went super smooth... But then I raced the weekly challenge at the high speed ring with the 962c... And holy crap it was a hell of a fight keeping that car straight lol.

I'm 99.9% sure it was an issue on PDs side because it got better the next update.

I still wanted to keep testing that track and see if I could get rid of most of the oscillation while keeping the full 11nm torque. Sent Podger a message to let him know what was going on and then decided to play with the in game settings and wheel settings.

For the in game settings, this is what I tried...I tried bringing the controller vibration down to around 25, but nope, no change. I tried turning the FFB sensitivity down to around 3, and nope, no change. I didn't want to reduce the torque in game so I left that alone.

For the wheel settings, this is what I tried.... Left the torque at 11nm since that's the end goal. Tried reducing the dampener to around 5, nope no change. I tried changing the trueforce from 100% down to 10%, nope no change.

Last thing to try out was the FFB filter... And now is the part that didn't make sense. If you go in GHub and read the description for the FFB filter, it basically says that setting it to 15 will pretty much smooth out any deviations in the FFB, basically should make the wheel feel very smooth without any/or little jerkiness. On the opposite side, a setting of 1 will give you the absolute minimum filtering and provides the wheel a very raw ffb signal (very fast response/jerkiness to bumps, surface changes etc).

I started by putting it on auto to see what would happen. I think the oscillation actually got worse. Changed it to 15 and it basically felt the same as when I had it set early to 7 or 8 (this was the ffb filter setting that I had when I first had the oscillation issue). I continued to bring it down 1 step at a time but the oscillation issue was exactly the same at every level. I finally set it to 1 and wow! 90% of the oscillation issue was immediately removed! There still is a bit of oscillation, but that can be overcome by holding the wheel properly with both hands and using some arm muscle for stabilisation.


Most of you probably didn't want to read that, or bother reading it....lol no worries, it's nothing important, just something I found interesting and wanted to share.

Thanks for the insight!

I messed around with all settings last night using the Porsche on the High Speed Ring as suggested.

Started with the dampener on 1 for a couple of laps, then 100 for a couple of laps. At my skill level I didn’t actually notice much difference. There was a slight mellowing at 100 but the difference wasn’t enough to make me have a strong preference so I’m just running with 50 from now.

Then I tried the extremes of the FFB filter. I definitely like the raw feel so I’ll stick with 1.

In game settings are 10 for torque and 9 for sensitivity.

The car wasn’t tuned as you suggested and my drive hub isn’t here yet so I’m stuck on GT7 imposed torque limits for now. I only noticed a little oscillation on turn in with corner 1, which was easily overcome holding the wheel firmly. I’d suggest perhaps PD have released updates to improve oscillation or maybe the tune is crucial to replicating the issues.

Trueforce I’ve landed on 115 for in game vibration and 90 on the wheel. My thinking here is that you want the source sending a strong signal so the output can be the control ie This leaves me a little headroom so I can quickly turn it up / down on the wheel as needed and I won’t need to mess with in game settings…. I might be wrong but so far I’m happy with these settings.

And FWIW the brake pedal on the pro pedals is by far the most notable improvement over the TM T-GT wheel and pedals for me. The wheel is a big improvement too but the brake gives me so much more control now.

Overall a great upgrade and very happy with the setup and settings now!

 

[Supercededman]

I'm not sure if it was a bug or maybe a unique issue with high speed ring but that track was the first one that I raced on and experienced a rather aggressive amount of oscillation.

I can't remember exactly how long ago it was when it happened but I do know that it happened while I was testing the boost mode on the drivehub before it was publicly announced. Podger let me do early testing on the boost mode while his leadership debated if they should publicly release it. The first few days of testing went super smooth... But then I raced the weekly challenge at the high speed ring with the 962c... And holy crap it was a hell of a fight keeping that car straight lol.

I'm 99.9% sure it was an issue on PDs side because it got better the next update.

I still wanted to keep testing that track and see if I could get rid of most of the oscillation while keeping the full 11nm torque. Sent Podger a message to let him know what was going on and then decided to play with the in game settings and wheel settings.

For the in game settings, this is what I tried...I tried bringing the controller vibration down to around 25, but nope, no change. I tried turning the FFB sensitivity down to around 3, and nope, no change. I didn't want to reduce the torque in game so I left that alone.

For the wheel settings, this is what I tried.... Left the torque at 11nm since that's the end goal. Tried reducing the dampener to around 5, nope no change. I tried changing the trueforce from 100% down to 10%, nope no change.

Last thing to try out was the FFB filter... And now is the part that didn't make sense. If you go in GHub and read the description for the FFB filter, it basically says that setting it to 15 will pretty much smooth out any deviations in the FFB, basically should make the wheel feel very smooth without any/or little jerkiness. On the opposite side, a setting of 1 will give you the absolute minimum filtering and provides the wheel a very raw ffb signal (very fast response/jerkiness to bumps, surface changes etc).

I started by putting it on auto to see what would happen. I think the oscillation actually got worse. Changed it to 15 and it basically felt the same as when I had it set early to 7 or 8 (this was the ffb filter setting that I had when I first had the oscillation issue). I continued to bring it down 1 step at a time but the oscillation issue was exactly the same at every level. I finally set it to 1 and wow! 90% of the oscillation issue was immediately removed! There still is a bit of oscillation, but that can be overcome by holding the wheel properly with both hands and using some arm muscle for stabilisation.


Most of you probably didn't want to read that, or bother reading it....lol no worries, it's nothing important, just something I found interesting and wanted to share.

Great post. I do have residual oscillation when using DH at 150%, but I'm happy with what I have without changing sensitivity.

Your post is incredibly detailed and very interesting.

Yeah, I love my G Pro and DriveHub

 

[Yes No]

Great post. I do have residual oscillation when using DH at 150%, but I'm happy with what I have without changing sensitivity.

Your post is incredibly detailed and very interesting.

Yeah, I love my G Pro and DriveHub

Thank you! I was hoping to have some time last night to see if I could recreate the crazy oscillation on that track with that setup but ended up running out of time. I'll try to recreate it tonight if I have time.

 

[EricTheActor]

What's the shifter like? I've not been in the market for one until recently and ruled out the Fanatec as too expensive and the TM looking toy-like. I bought a Moza HGP and DriveHub thinking it would be compatible, but nope. I've got a brick. I'll hang on to it until Collective Minds issue drivers. Until then, it is the old Logitech shifter, lol.

But the DriveHub itself is amazing. To feel the full 11nm after being used to the capped 7/8 nm is a real shock. It took me a couple of days to get used to the forces it can generate (11nm? I think it may be closer to 13-15nm), but wow, what a wheel.

The Frex Hshift+ is amaze balls for me! I went from a VNM which is great, and wanted a more mechanical clunky feel. Old race cars and prototypes, “square cuts” feel, as opposed to the smooth rocking lever type shifters. Frex has a fairly simple horizontal system, and it feels much more in line with a real gear box to me. An awesome feel, and it’s very precise. It’s hard to miss shifts and easy to forget that it’s not actually connected to anything. Not much info on their site to help sell it, but I’m glad I took the plunge! Shipping was flat rate only, but without any info or warning they overnight it from Japan which was really cool. Zerooo complaints with my Frex as you can see lol. I think many of us ideally would want the bazooka shifter or especially the Quaife being of the highest quality and performance. However, Frex is 1/3 the cost as the latter, and by some accounts not all that far off from the higher performers. And it’s plug and play compatible with ps5, Drivehub.

Not sure on the moza cost. I think the Frex may work out to be almost twice the cost of the fanatec.

Don’t give up on your moza with Drivehub. I would contact @Podger on here, he may be able to help you. It may be possible to capture the needed data and send it to him, it may work with his wizardry. He’s awesome.

Yea 11nm is kick ass. It was like buying a new wheel the first time I tried it with Drivehub. It’s apart of my wheel boot up every time, don’t forget to get your Newtons up lol. I’m really happy I stumbled upon Drivehub, it has made for a much more immersive experience on multiple accounts. And at an extremely reasonable price. Thankyou Podger!

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@LOGI_Rich Are there plans to expand the list of countries the Pro wheel can be shipped to? The current list is pretty small. I'm based in Croatia.

Checking - will let you know. This is for the PS or Xbox version, right?

 

[turk1993]

Finally got my G Pro Wheel and pedals, upgraded from my old G920. After comparing and looking at different wheels and pedals the G Pro was my final choice. It was really hard to pick a wheel at this price point since there are some very nice wheels and pedals. But all of them are lacking in some areas which made it difficult for me to pick one. But at the end i got the G Pro so im happy i joined the team .

 

[Eegour]

Awesome turk, welcome!. Are you racing on PC, ps5?

 

[Monkey Man]

Good decision IMHO @turk1993.

Congrats mate.

 

[turk1993]

Awesome turk, welcome!. Are you racing on PC, ps5?

Yes, i play ACC, AC, PC2, FM, FH5 on pc and GT7 on PS5.

 

[330_D]

Hello, I see that you've installed lowdown shifter mods on your Playseat Challenge. Which ones did you install? Are you satisfied with them?

I have an 8nm Fanatec DD Pro and bought the steering stabilizer for my playseat challenge and was very happy with it. I have since upgraded the rig but it was a pretty good reduction in flex. It never goes away, though.

 

[charlie3322]

Hi all,

long time lurker to this thread, finally took the plunge to buy DD wheelbase and loadcell pedal set, and went with the G pro, in a large part thanks to this thread. I'm in the UK and it arrived last Thursday, took 8 days after ordering, which was good I think.

I was hoping my first post on here to be positive, I am happy with how the wheel and pedals feel but after two days I already had intermittent issue which is concerning. After playing AC or Raceroom for a couple of minutes, if go to the pause menu or exit out of the game back to desktop, there is sometimes a substantial ticking/clicking noise from within the base that is also making the wheel twitch ever so slightly. It's not great pausing your game or waiting for the next race and the wheel is twitching. I'm only playing on PC at the moment, so don't if it would be an issue on PS5 as well.

I'm using it with 8.1nm strength and following the Logitech recommended settings for AC and RaceRoom, with FF turned down on AC, so I'm not pushing it particularly hard. The firmware is up to date and I've tried different USB ports on my PC (it's plugged in directly). The issue does stop when I turn the base off and on again but it can then reappear. It's intermittent which makes it more perplexing.

Here is a clip, the first section of the video shows the wheel twitching and the second part shows the clicking/ticking noise coming from the base.

 

[Dankostone]

I have an 8nm Fanatec DD Pro and bought the steering stabilizer for my playseat challenge and was very happy with it. I have since upgraded the rig but it was a pretty good reduction in flex. It never goes away, tho installed everything today and I'm really satisfied!

I have an 8nm Fanatec DD Pro and bought the steering stabilizer for my playseat challenge and was very happy with it. I have since upgraded the rig but it was a pretty good reduction in flex. It never goes away, though.

I installed everything today and I'm really satisfied!

 

[Eegour]

@charlie3322, welcome to the club, sorry its a rough start. It seems to me like your wheel is trying to find center for some reason. Are you using logitech’s recommended settings for your wheelbase and in game?. Have you tried the re-centering adjustment?. It may not help, but just a thought

 

[charlie3322]

@charlie3322, welcome to the club, sorry its a rough start. It seems to me like your wheel is trying to find center for some reason. Are you using logitech’s recommended settings for your wheelbase and in game?. Have you tried the re-centering adjustment?. It may not help, but just a thought

Hi Eegour, thanks for your reply. I am using the recommending settings. I don't think it is trying to re-centre because even though it is twitching, it's actually not registering any left or right movement when it twitches. If I recall, when I move the steering to the left or right, it doesn't re-centre or attempt to, it just keeps twitching.

It's such a shame, I'd be really impressed and happy otherwise!

 

[dude0702]

Checking - will let you know. This is for the PS or Xbox version, right?

Thanks man! Yup. PS version.

 

[Bobsbob]

It’s been said a few times on here but just to add my 2c, for GT7 with the Logi G Pro wheel, Drivehub takes it to the next level!

The ability to get the full 11nm from the wheel is a total game changer. To be clear, 11nm is too much for my chicken wing arms and I find 9nm to be the most realistic. But with Drivehub at 150% and the wheel at 9nm, the difference from not having Drivehub is night and day.

So if you’re considering getting a G Pro and you play GT7, get Drivehub too.

 

[TheOneDonJuan]

It’s been said a few times on here but just to add my 2c, for GT7 with the Logi G Pro wheel, Drivehub takes it to the next level!

The ability to get the full 11nm from the wheel is a total game changer. To be clear, 11nm is too much for my chicken wing arms and I find 9nm to be the most realistic. But with Drivehub at 150% and the wheel at 9nm, the difference from not having Drivehub is night and day.

So if you’re considering getting a G Pro and you play GT7, get Drivehub too.

What is DriveHub?

 

[Bobsbob]

What is DriveHub?

Drivehub sits between your wheel and gaming system (pc, console) to make wheels, pedals, shifters etc cross compatible across different brands and gaming systems. It’s been around for years but personally I’ve never taken much notice of it because I only play Gran Turismo and the wheels I’ve had are Playstation compatible. I also don’t have much interest in adding shifters or handbrakes from alternate brands.

If you read through the last few pages of this forum and also google ‘collective minds Drivehub’ you’ll find info from people who know more than me.

The reason I got it was GT7 limits the power output of a wheel to 70% (I think…. It’s much lower than the G Pro wheel can provide) and Drivehub is also capable of removing this limit.

It’s a tiny and unobtrusive device and really adds to the realism in GT7. Well worth investigating IMHO

 

[tyoungbl]

I'm actually really curious about some of the implications of the drivehub circumventing the gpro torque lock imposed by PD. If it's for "safety" reasons and one was using a 3rd party device to get around this I imagine PD or Sony wouldn't ignore it for very long. We've seen some recent updates to consoles that allude to locking out unapproved devices or violating TOS agreements by using said devices.

I have the drivehub and use it to enable compatibility across consoles. Haven't entirely felt comfortable using it to alter the gpro wheels functionality.

Has logitech said anything about this anywhere? @LOGI_Rich any comment?

 

[Bobsbob]

I'm actually really curious about some of the implications of the drivehub circumventing the gpro torque lock imposed by PD. If it's for "safety" reasons and one was using a 3rd party device to get around this I imagine PD or Sony wouldn't ignore it for very long. We've seen some recent updates to consoles that allude to locking out unapproved devices or violating TOS agreements by using said devices.

I have the drivehub and use it to enable compatibility across consoles. Haven't entirely felt comfortable using it to alter the gpro wheels functionality.

Has logitech said anything about this anywhere? @LOGI_Rich any comment?

Fair question. I’ve not seen any comments to counter it, but I also haven’t gone looking.

My thought process was if every other game is ‘safe’ using the full 11nm from the G Pro, why does PD think otherwise for GT7. There’s possibly some reason.

 

[chandrizzle]

I'm actually really curious about some of the implications of the drivehub circumventing the gpro torque lock imposed by PD. If it's for "safety" reasons and one was using a 3rd party device to get around this I imagine PD or Sony wouldn't ignore it for very long. We've seen some recent updates to consoles that allude to locking out unapproved devices or violating TOS agreements by using said devices.

I have the drivehub and use it to enable compatibility across consoles. Haven't entirely felt comfortable using it to alter the gpro wheels functionality.

Has logitech said anything about this anywhere? @LOGI_Rich any comment?

As noted in the other thread, 11nm shouldn't pose any issues (for grown adults, whom are the most likely candidates for owning such a device). Try it for yourself... Probably once you start getting to 15nm and above is when you'll encounter some slight hint of danger.

It could also have something to do with the partnership between PD and Fanatec with the then unreleased CS DD+ (when the cap was implemented). With the issues Fanatec has had lately, maybe no one has gotten around to removing the limit now that it's released. Others have stated that the full 11nm still works in games that aren't GT, like AC. I have no stake in any of these companies so this is pure speculation.

 

[tyoungbl]

Fair question. I’ve not seen any comments to counter it, but I also haven’t gone looking.

My thought process was if every other game is ‘safe’ using the full 11nm from the G Pro, why does PD think otherwise for GT7. There’s possibly some reason.

Oh I think the torque limit in gt7 is ridiculous. It's totally safe if you aren't doing anything stupid with the wheel, just like almost anything.

If @LOGI_Rich says that using the drivehub is allowing the gpro base to reach full potential as logitech actually intends, and not doing anything else like "simulating" the full torque or something weird like that then I'd probably do it on the regular. I enjoy the full torque on forza and enjoyed it in gt7 before the nerf.

Also if drivehub devs found a way to increase the torque by a % would it also allow you to increase it beyond what the wheel is technically capable of?

Im sure @Podger and @LOGI_Rich know more than what's been said, But.. I seriously doubt logitech would acknowledge anything as it's not an approved device.

 

[Bobsbob]

Oh I think the torque limit in gt7 is ridiculous. It's totally safe if you aren't doing anything stupid with the wheel, just like almost anything.

If @LOGI_Rich says that using the drivehub is allowing the gpro base to reach full potential as logitech actually intends, and not doing anything else like "simulating" the full torque or something weird like that then I'd probably do it on the regular. I enjoy the full torque on forza and enjoyed it in gt7 before the nerf.

Also if drivehub devs found a way to increase the torque by a % would it also allow you to increase it beyond what the wheel is technically capable of?

Im sure @Podger and @LOGI_Rich know more than what's been said, But.. I seriously doubt logitech would acknowledge anything as it's not an approved device.

So GT7 used to allow the full 11nm from the G Pro? But it got dialed back? And the Fanatec wheels still support full torque in GT7? If that’s the case the ‘safe’ limit is complete BS and it’s a clearly a just a sales push for Fanatec.

If Drivehubs torque amplifier numbers are correct then 150% of the 72% GT7 limit is actually 108% of the original signal being sent to the wheel. 140% is 100.8% so perhaps that’s the Drivehub setting to go with if you want to be ‘safe’ and not risk damaging hardware.

Certainly be interest to here from people who know.

 

[IfAndOr]

And the Fanatec wheels still support full torque in GT7?

From what I've read, the PS compatible Fanatec Podium DD1 can run at its full torque in GT7. That's 20Nm I think.

 

[Bobsbob]

From what I've read, the PS compatible Fanatec Podium DD1 can run at its full torque in GT7. That's 20Nm I think.

I’ve been playing GT since it first release of GT1 (yes I’m old) but that’s super disappointing from PD.

I get it, they’re in business but they should rethink their tag line. Perhaps ‘the real driving simulator….. but only if you purchase the right gear so we get an extra cut’ might be more suitable.

Happy to be corrected if I’m wrong though and that makes me even more thankful for Drivehub