Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Igano]

I only recently found the button that allows on the fly changes on the wheel. I was very impressed by the choices available and it allowed me to make it easier pressing the break fully without changing the resistance. I was amazed to find out that the ffb strength was set at 5 nm... It felt so strong ( I thought it would be close to full power) and I would not dare make it any stronger. I am wondering how many of you actually wanted it higher than 5nm.

 

[miroshi]

Don’t know if this helps but when I got mine I had it all plugged in and it was working but suddenly it wasn’t. The power cable going into the power supply thing (big rectangle box) wasn’t in tight enough, I could have swore I had it plugged in good but I guess it wasn’t. Doesn’t makes sense why it it works on pc and not ps4/5 but maybe PC can supply the difference in power? Reason I say is I’m pretty sure the green light was even still lit when it wasn’t working, checked connections and that power cable going into the box pushed in a little more. All good so far.

The power brick is beefy, uses large capacitors, it takes a while for the LED to fade out after unplugging it from the wall outlet. I was moving it around a couple times and I'm positive that the cable was slotted in firmly.

 

[hawkeyez]

Maybe these people are having power issues, like voltage drops?

This one place we do work for was having issues with this one piece of equipment, they previously had all different companies in and the techs they had in couldn’t find the issue and they just kept replacing contactors as they were failing, we finally found the building was having voltage drops, the wires to the contactors were getting hot too, doubled up each feed with an extra wire, they’ve been going three years with no issues.

I myself do music recording and I know my equipment sure is finicky with spikes and all sorts of things, if the power even flickers once sometimes it’ll glitch out the DAW or the interface.

You’d think with beefy capacitors you wouldn’t have that problem but who knows. It might be more sensitive to it all than the tv and ps5. I’ve had the power dip for a second to where my fish tank pump and lights will briefly turn off and on and my ps5 and tv just kept going. Anyway was just a thought, I know my plug moved in maybe a 1mm or 2mm and that was it.

 

[RJ83]

I only recently found the button that allows on the fly changes on the wheel. I was very impressed by the choices available and it allowed me to make it easier pressing the break fully without changing the resistance. I was amazed to find out that the ffb strength was set at 5 nm... It felt so strong ( I thought it would be close to full power) and I would not dare make it any stronger. I am wondering how many of you actually wanted it higher than 5nm.

From what I understand the best way is to set it at 11nm in the wheel settings and then tone it down ingame. Currently i have mine at 67 gain in Assetto Corsa (pc). 75 is the highest i went and that felt quite strong, but I prefer a bit less currently. Always nice to know you can go higher if you want in the future. (With the Fanatec 8 nm DD I would already be at the limit with my preference.)

 

[miroshi]

This "boy" claims to be using the wheel at 10Nm and 80kg load cell, opinions? Is he a sim racing prodigy or something?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Suellio’s a lot stronger (and older!) than he looks. He’s also one of the nicest guys you’re ever likely to meet.

 

[smeemi]

What's the cheapest the wheel has been without discount codes except for the launch price? Did it reduce at Xmas?

 

[miroshi]

Suellio’s a lot stronger (and older!) than he looks. He’s also one of the nicest guys you’re ever likely to meet.

I see. How come you need 80kg braking force in a race car? I have real life experience with sports cars only, and from my experience the preset for load cell at 30kg is what the road cars actually feel like, including my own sports car, maybe 45kg max. More than that will trigger ABS even on semi-slick tires and good road surface traction.
Also 10Nm is definitely a lot heavier than my sports car, and any other road car. GT7 defaults to 5Nm which again feels like my sports car. I understand that 11Nm for short spikes in force feedback makes for a different experience, but having to overcame high torque in every single curve will get tiresome quickly. I don't know how GT7 handles this actually, if I set it to 5Nm in-game the force feedback max torque including short term spikes (curbs, collisions) will get clamped/scaled to 5Nm as well?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

In a real race car g-force counts for a lot when braking - the sheer act of braking forces the driver forwards so their weight is added to the braking action. Of course they’re strapped in so it’s not their complete weight that’s contributing!

Then you have the different racing styles. F1 and other open wheel styles often have the driver in a lower position so they’re able to use their whole body strength to brake.

Going back to sim racing, some people are just really strong and can handle that level of braking pressure (and wheel torque, whilst we’re at it). It’s a general truism that it’s easier to notice small details in force feedback at higher strength levels… well that’s all relative of course; 5Nm is a workout for one person, whereas for another it’s very light.

As for peak torque, every game is different but if they’ve been designed correctly then peak torque is reserved for the bumps and kerbs, with a holding torque level being what you feel as you just steer into a corner at high speed. What varies is the difference between that holding and peak torque. GT7 tends to have less of a difference between the holding and peak and there’s no way to adjust this. Other titles really allow you to tune that difference - iRacing, for example.

 

[GlockPants]

Just wanted to give an update.

I got my PS5 back from having its USB ports repaired. Wheel connected on first try and lasted the entire session.

I believe that my compromised wiring from the water damage I had in my bathroom was the culprit for my connectivity issues.

The power fluctuations I was experiencing somehow damaged the USB ports on my PS5.

I couldn't say exactly why the PC mode never was affected, so whatever the difference is with the PlayStation mode, there's some kind of weakness there. Couldn't say if it's the wheel hardware itself, or maybe an issue with the AC adapter.

Hope this helps.

 

[CustomX]

In a real race car g-force counts for a lot when braking - the sheer act of braking forces the driver forwards so their weight is added to the braking action. Of course they’re strapped in so it’s not their complete weight that’s contributing!

Then you have the different racing styles. F1 and other open wheel styles often have the driver in a lower position so they’re able to use their whole body strength to brake.

Going back to sim racing, some people are just really strong and can handle that level of braking pressure (and wheel torque, whilst we’re at it). It’s a general truism that it’s easier to notice small details in force feedback at higher strength levels… well that’s all relative of course; 5Nm is a workout for one person, whereas for another it’s very light.

As for peak torque, every game is different but if they’ve been designed correctly then peak torque is reserved for the bumps and kerbs, with a holding torque level being what you feel as you just steer into a corner at high speed. What varies is the difference between that holding and peak torque. GT7 tends to have less of a difference between the holding and peak and there’s no way to adjust this. Other titles really allow you to tune that difference - iRacing, for example.

Great explanation, Rich. Always adding value. I really feel like I love my Logitech products more due to the insights and extra layers of info that you provide on here. Make sure you quote that one to whoever you report in to!!

On another note, I'm loving my Racing Adapter. For anyone thinking that the driving force shifter is a mis-match with the Pro Wheel and is holding off; don't. They go really well together and its a great stop gap at a great price, until a pro shifter is released.

I do still find the GT7 clutch implementation quite poor in that I often seem to find myself in neutral when doing quick shifts (most of the time) and then its a struggle to get back into gear. Always have to put it back into the last gear I was in, which is not realistic at all.

I tried Dirt 2.0 and had a similar issue there.

Frustrating. I'd really like to enjoy a proper manual driving experience. Driving H shifter clutchless is also super fun though, so I still give it the thumbs up.

 

[IfAndOr]

Frustrating. I'd really like to enjoy a proper manual driving experience.

Could I perhaps suggest Project Cars 3* the next time it's on sale in the store. The PCars series has pretty good clutch support. PC3 also outputs Trueforce data so makes full use of the extra features of the wheel. I think it brings out an extra dimension to the game.

* The previous titles have been delisted.

 

[Tom Watkins]

Currently use a T300RS, Heusinkveld Sprints, Aiologs shifter and handbrake, along with a drivehub on PS5 for GT7 and PSVR2. Can anyone confirm if I swapped out my T300 RS for this G Pro wheel (Playstation version) that the pedals, shifter, handbrake will all still be compatible??? I can't see why not as I'd have thought the wheelbase would just act as a pass through in/out of the drivehub , same as my T300 RS. Don't want the hassle of buying it to find out it won't!! Just want to make sure it will work natively with the Trueforce etc.

 

[miroshi]

I do still find the GT7 clutch implementation quite poor in that I often seem to find myself in neutral when doing quick shifts (most of the time) and then its a struggle to get back into gear. Always have to put it back into the last gear I was in, which is not realistic at all.

This is why I gave up on shifters like 10 years ago, it just felt too unrealistic and toy alike.
Unless there's a shifter that utilizes some kind of lockout mechanism not allowing you to freely shift unless the clutch is depressed and emulates shifting resistance like a proper gearbox, I'll never use one.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Currently use a T300RS, Heusinkveld Sprints, Aiologs shifter and handbrake, along with a drivehub on PS5 for GT7 and PSVR2. Can anyone confirm if I swapped out my T300 RS for this G Pro wheel (Playstation version) that the pedals, shifter, handbrake will all still be compatible??? I can't see why not as I'd have thought the wheelbase would just act as a pass through in/out of the drivehub , same as my T300 RS. Don't want the hassle of buying it to find out it won't!! Just want to make sure it will work natively with the Trueforce etc.

Trueforce is the one thing that won't work in this situation, I'm afraid.

 

[Tom Watkins]

Trueforce is the one thing that won't work in this situation, I'm afraid.

Damn! I was just about to order one. Trying to decide between this and a DD Pro. So, disregarding Trueforce, do we think this a better FFB wheel than the DD Pro for GT7? It's surely a worthy upgrade to my t300 even without Trueforce working. Decisions, decisions....

Why will the Trueforce not work? Does the wheelbase have to be plugged directly into the PS5?

I wonder if the G Pro wheel plugged in directly to the PS5 and then a Hori Mini Pad used with the drivehub can make the pedals, shifter and handbrake work.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It's because Trueforce is its own interface and Drivehub doesn't have the details of that. As far as I'm aware, they basically make the connected wheel pretend to be a G29. You won't be able to connect the Drivehub separately to the wheel either as the PlayStation requires all of the inputs for a controller/wheel to be coming through the same USB port/UserID; when you initiate the input from Drivehub in addition to the Pro Wheel it would have to be assigned to a second user ID and therefore wouldn't work. As for whether it's a better wheel than the DD Pro... I'm of course going to say that it is

 

[Tom Watkins]

It's because Trueforce is its own interface and Drivehub doesn't have the details of that. As far as I'm aware, they basically make the connected wheel pretend to be a G29. You won't be able to connect the Drivehub separately to the wheel either as the PlayStation requires all of the inputs for a controller/wheel to be coming through the same USB port/UserID; when you initiate the input from Drivehub in addition to the Pro Wheel it would have to be assigned to a second user ID and therefore wouldn't work. As for whether it's a better wheel than the DD Pro... I'm of course going to say that it is

Thanks for the info. Yep, I was obviously expecting that answer . What if I linked them up with a USB Splitter? I know that's not gonna work but I'm trying

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Never tried it, but you're still going to have the same issue that the Drivehub's inputs are not part of the Pro Wheel's and vice versa.

 

[miroshi]

As for whether it's a better wheel than the DD Pro... I'm of course going to say that it is

The PRO wheel is absolutely better in every single aspect, larger rim, better build quality, better rear paddles, adjustable brake pedal travel, and the cherry on top being the TRUEFORCE which really makes it feel like a wheel from totally different class. Can't wait for the replacement to arrive soon.

 

[Tom Watkins]

The PRO wheel is absolutely better in every single aspect, larger rim, better build quality, better rear paddles, adjustable brake pedal travel, and the cherry on top being the TRUEFORCE which really makes it feel like a wheel from totally different class. Can't wait for the replacement to arrive soon.

I hear you. However, if trueforce won't work for my situatIon and the drivehub see's the wheel as just a G29, what sort of force feedback experience am I going to have?

Will it be a better experience than the CSL DD PRO using the drivehub? as we do know that is compatible.

I'm half tempted just to purchase one and try it out as they have a 30 day and free returns policy.

 

[miroshi]

I hear you. However, if trueforce won't work for my situatIon and the drivehub see's the wheel as just a G29, what sort of force feedback experience am I going to have?

Will it be a better experience than the CSL DD PRO using the drivehub? as we do know that is compatible.

I'm half tempted just to purchase one and try it out as they have a 30 day and free returns policy.

It will be better, what I immediately liked was +2cm diameter rim, it felt better in hands, nice and strong tactile feedback of large shifter paddles, achieved with magnets and hall sensors, made from metal, whereas the DD Pro's paddles are much smaller, plasticky, providing tiny tactile feedback via a simple microswitch, even my 12 years old T500RS felt better in this regard because it at least used real metal for the paddles. All buttons, and joysticks have horrible play and are very noisy when clicked. I usually don't care about that stuff, but after comparing both wheels back to back in my hands, it just stood out so much more as the buttons, joystick and rotary encoders felt tight and accurate on the PRO wheel. The build quality of each part of the wheel is simply better on the PRO wheel. And +3Nm of additional torque should you wish to use the full 11Nm in the future. I paid 1000 EUR for the DD Pro premium bundle and I felt like I overpaid for what I got, because it simply wasn't that big of an upgrade compared with my old T500RS (5Nm belt driven), except for the direct drive being smoother, a bit stronger, and noiseless. Also the included load cell brake pedal is super stiff and can't be adjusted unless user modded. It was a no-brainer to keep the PRO wheel and say goodbye to DD Pro. The only positive thing I can say about DD pro is that the force feedback was smooth and basically noiseless as one can expect from a direct drive wheel. So even without TRUEFORCE taken into account the PRO wheel is still better overall, 100% feels like a premium product, whereas the DD Pro does not.

 

[Tom Watkins]

It will be better, what I immediately liked was +2cm diameter rim, it felt better in hands, nice and strong tactile feedback of large shifter paddles, achieved with magnets and hall sensors, made from metal, aluminium if I recall correctly, whereas the DD Pro's paddles are much smaller, plasticky, providing tiny tactile feedback via a simple microswitch, even my 12 years old T500RS felt better in this regard because it at least used real metal for the paddles. All buttons, and joysticks have horrible play and are very noisy when clicked. I usually don't care about that stuff, but after comparing both wheels back to back in my hands, it just stood out so much more as the buttons, joystick and rotary encoders felt tight and accurate on the PRO wheel. The build quality of each part of the wheel is simply better on the PRO wheel. And +3Nm of additional torque should you wish to use the full 11Nm in the future. I paid 1000 EUR for the DD Pro premium bundle and I felt like I overpaid for what I got, because it simply wasn't that big of an upgrade compared with my old T500RS (5Nm belt driven), except for the direct drive being smoother, a bit stronger, and noiseless. Also the included load cell brake pedal is super stiff and can't be adjusted unless user modded. It was a no-brainer to keep the PRO wheel and say goodbye to DD Pro. The only positive thing I can say about DD pro is that the force feedback was smooth and basically noiseless as one can expect from a direct drive wheel. So even without TRUEFORCE taken into account the PRO wheel is still better overall, 100% feels like a premium product, whereas the DD Pro does not.

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll get one ordered

 

[almazing]

Ordered my pedals last Wednesday, still hasn't shipped. Website says orders will ship within 24-48 hours. Called CS and they're completely useless. Are there shipping delays in the USA or did Logitech oversell these pedals? Should I be expecting a 'Sorry, your order has been canceled' email soon? If it isn't one damn thing, it's another. Ridiculous.

 

[miroshi]

Ordered my pedals last Wednesday, still hasn't shipped. Website says orders will ship within 24-48 hours. Called CS and they're completely useless. Are there shipping delays in the USA or did Logitech oversell these pedals? Should I be expecting a 'Sorry, your order has been canceled' email soon? If it isn't one damn thing, it's another. Ridiculous.

They're out of stock constantly, I waited for mine to ship a week, despite the "in stock ready to ship" plastered all over the place. I contacted the support about my order which shipped without the pedals. They made excuses, something about fixing the page so it would show properly the stock status, but obviously just excuses, they seem to be continuing doing this shady thing.
Also I don't like how slow the support is, I'm 5 days in with the package already returned and currently being received at Logitech in Swiss and the replacement has not been shipped out yet. Broken thing out of the box and this is what you get from their support, just super long waiting. 12 days total since I received the broken unit and still waiting (7 days just to get RMA, 5 days package return, ....to be continued).

 

[Mr Latte]

I only got to try my wheel for about 3-4 hrs so far and it is attached to the kitchen table.
Need to do mods to my own rig frame to install it. Is it M6 bolts that are needed, I forgot about those not included in the box.

Generally, I felt it was good (mostly played GT7) but spent a large amount of that time seeking to mess around with settings.
It's easy to get lost in that to try to focus on how different the wheel feels/responds with a change here/there and then not so sure what felt more suited.

I was surprised how strong the sausage curbs felt in ACC and are quite tame in GT7 which is a tad annoying but something I suppose we have to get used to how, each developer has decided for the wheels to perform.

Can I ask, which titles people here who have had the wheel for a while do they think offers the best TF or FFB?
Not necessarily which games are the overall best to play but what I mean is, games that showcase how this wheel brings more fun or is at its best?

Do we have a top 5?

 

[krille_r]

I only got to try my wheel for about 3-4 hrs so far and it is attached to the kitchen table.
Need to do mods to my own rig frame to install it. Is it M6 bolts that are needed, I forgot about those not included in the box.

Generally, I felt it was good (mostly played GT7) but spent a large amount of that time seeking to mess around with settings.
It's easy to get lost in that to try to focus on how different the wheel feels/responds with a change here/there and then not so sure what felt more suited.

I was surprised how strong the sausage curbs felt in ACC and are quite tame in GT7 which is a tad annoying but something I suppose we have to get used to how, each developer has decided for the wheels to perform.

Can I ask, which titles people here who have had the wheel for a while do they think offers the best TF or FFB?
Not necessarily which games are the overall best to play but what I mean is, games that showcase how this wheel brings more fun or is at its best?

Do we have a top 5?

I have tested it on acc and GT7, and would say that the ffb in acc is many times better than gt7

 

[macsta]

Any update on this wheel working on both ps5 and xbox? Don't want to pull the trigger unless I know it's future proof

 

[CustomX]

This is why I gave up on shifters like 10 years ago, it just felt too unrealistic and toy alike.
Unless there's a shifter that utilizes some kind of lockout mechanism not allowing you to freely shift unless the clutch is depressed and emulates shifting resistance like a proper gearbox, I'll never use one.

Just coming back to this. I find the "unrealistic" argument a bit strange, because for me, its a lot more unrealistic to drive a '67 Miura or an '84 Ferrari GTO using tiptronic wheel mounted paddles for gear shifting. The H-shifter is (in my view) a much better compromise.

 

[steiner]

hey guys, about to pull the trigger on the bundle.

how is the long term quality of the set? Anyone using it for some time now and can chime in to say wethere the build quality holds up? No loose parts, no screeching or anything of that matter? Any other issues that only come up after some useage?