Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
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Dragonwhisky
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- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
First impression - Good GAWD a'mighty. The power supply for the wheel. Does this wheel have the computing capacity for nuclear missile launch response modeling? Maybe it can do some planetary terraforming modeling as well? 300w is some pretty serious output for a peripheral device. @LOGI_Rich if this thing dims the lights in my house when I power it up, later today is the plan, I'm sending you the bill for the generator I'm probably gonna' have to get to run it. 
😋
Of course, I know, if it does dim the lights in my house, I've got other more serious electrical issues to deal with.
The G29 PS is a wall wart by comparison to the size of that thing. It's got me more than a little concerned if my wheelstand can withstand, even with the mods I've had made and installed on it. I've got some additional reinforcements on the way, if it cannot. No, I'm not getting a new freestanding "rig". I like the arrangement I currently have for swiveling to my PC once the VR scope is removed.
😋 Of course, I know, if it does dim the lights in my house, I've got other more serious electrical issues to deal with.
The G29 PS is a wall wart by comparison to the size of that thing. It's got me more than a little concerned if my wheelstand can withstand, even with the mods I've had made and installed on it. I've got some additional reinforcements on the way, if it cannot. No, I'm not getting a new freestanding "rig". I like the arrangement I currently have for swiveling to my PC once the VR scope is removed.
- 6,516
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
Not as standard. Rich mentioned they have plans for those (plus the orbital guidance system) in future updates and accessories. Best to supply a beefy power supply in readiness.
- 1
Running the gpro on ps5 with the RS handbrake. Is it possible to make the rs handbrake work in axis mode (so variable brake based on how far you pull the brake) with EA WRC? Can only get it to work in digital mode where the handbrake is like an on/off switch.
Edit I found the chart of handbrake compatibility
Edit I found the chart of handbrake compatibility
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Dragonwhisky
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- 6,982
- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
Anyone know what the current firmware version is?
I have,
from G-Hub. This is of course on my PC at the moment.
About to get some lunch, plug this thing into the PS and see how she runs. 100Kg on that brake is insane. 11Nm at the wheel is also insane. No one needs that much force feedback. Definitely won't be running high FFB in game.
I have,
from G-Hub. This is of course on my PC at the moment.
About to get some lunch, plug this thing into the PS and see how she runs. 100Kg on that brake is insane. 11Nm at the wheel is also insane. No one needs that much force feedback. Definitely won't be running high FFB in game.
- 28
- United States
I’m running max FFB in game, load cell set to 50 kg though. I think GT3 cars in real life hit roughly 12 Nm…
I used my wheelstand for a while without adjustments but the whole wheelbase was moving in every direction whenever i held it with one hand during shifting. Also the wheelstand wanted to pivot backwards, caused by the weight of the wheel, shifter and handbrake.
I put quite a few weights in the front and three aluminium rods keep the base stable. Works like a charm now!
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Dragonwhisky
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- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
Second Impression – First Drive;
Installed G-Hub, connected Pedals and Power to Wheel, connected Wheel to PC, powered it up and G-Hub immediately welcomed me to all things G-Pro. Fiddled around a bit getting to know G-Hub, wheel set to 11nm while on PC was way too strong for my arms these days but I left it there, guided by advice from @Oshawa-Joe , and would adjust the in game FFB Torque to suit. Went to the pedal screen and fiddled with those settings some. 100% on the load cell was impossible, 1% was lame. I went through several iterations before I settled initially on 15%. Apparently, me muscles, being on their 62nd lap around the sun, are not prepared to deal with this gear at anywhere near full strength. Factory spring and elastomers still in cylinder. Accelerator pedal feels much stiffer and butt tons more travel than the 29. Clutch feels fine the way it is and, since I won’t likely be using it much, at least until Logitech offers an H-Gate shifter, not really all that concerned with tweaking it to suit. Set the wheel to recommended spec as shown here for GT7.
Took my trusty ’16 Camaro 598.91PP out to Tokyo. I have 6,742 miles on this car at that grind race (minus the 2 races I’ve done with it on the Pro, all have been with the 29) and, I own a ‘15 5th Gen IRL, with over 80K on the clock, for comparison. Granted, I don’t drive it anywhere approaching as hard I do in game but, I have done about 4 runs auto-cross, 4 runs down the ¼ mile and 4 20+- minute sessions around NCM Motorsports Park back in ’16 & ’17.
Dropped the FFB Torque to 4 from 8 and the FFB Sensitivity from 10 to 5. Don’t really want this thing to tear my 11 year old modded Wheelstand Pro to shreds. Took me a couple three tries to get somewhat accustomed to the wheel’s new level of FFB. It was considerably heavier in my hands, compared to the 29. I also had farther to reach to the pedals, since I mounted those about 3” farther back on the stand. The bar and bolt used to hold the G29 pedals in place appears to work admirably holding the Pro set.
Been a long time since I’ve lost one of these races but I did finish 2nd, right beside Kokubun. Aside from the FFB level, there was no “Wow this is crazy better!” moment during the race. Finished wondering how I could tell if “Trueforce” was actually enabled and how I would tell if it was or was not. Began questioning the perspicacity of the decision to upgrade.
Third Impression – Second drive and the “Wow!” moment.
Later in the day, after lunch and a Christmas gift wrapping session with the wife, I got hooked up with one @Marcus Garvey, who has owned a G-Pro for several months now. We were, ostensibly, practicing for his Holiday Event, running under the SNAIL banner. Ulterior motives on my end were to pick his brain for tips, tricks and tweaks for the new gear. He didn’t seem to mind, and in fact had made the offer to do just that, after I’d mentioned I’d ordered it.
The first thing we discovered was, I had the output Trueforce uses turned off in game. Since I’d never planned to use the DS or VR controllers to ever drive in GT7, I’d shut off controller vibration 2 years ago and hadn’t given it any thought since then. Got that turned on and the strength of it set to 100, jumped back into that old Jaguar and the WOW moment hit. It kept on hitting too. What a difference! Motor vibrations, tires, curbs, all of it! O to the M & G! Little rumble strips felt little, big ones felt big, wheel traction chatter was in there too. The Jaguar at Goodwood, the MB 196 at Watkins and finished off the night at Brands in the DB3S. With a few short breaks, here and there, it was probably the longest batch of driving I’ve done yet in GT7+VR. It was actually enough to make me feel the strain from the new gear and I was tired and not particularly feeling very spry by 9:30P and decided to hit the rack. Earliest I’ve been to bed on a Saturday night since I can’t remember when.
I’ve noticed, when I go to bed so early, I wake equally early. Was awake at 5AM this morning. Had to be quiet so as not to disturb the better half so piddled around on my PC for an hour or two, getting screenshots of settings to put in the spreadsheet I’m building and have available if any wants a peek. Got bored around 8AM, turned the stereo down way low, pulled on the VR and audio headset and ran off another Tokyo in the Camaro with Trueforce working. Another batch of WOW moments. I could actually feel motor vibrations at the pedals. Me and the Pro still got some acclimatin’ ta’ do, it would appear, as I only finished in first by a shade over 3 seconds. Used to be I’d have 10 to 20 seconds on 2nd place.
Ran off a Gr4 race with some random folks who joined the room I opened to see how a car I’ve been prepping for another SNAIL Series I may get to run my first race on the 10th of January. Another WOW moment in how these cars with aero load up the wheel once the aero weight kicks in on the front end and pretty much lightens to almost nothing under about 30MPH. Just as I expect it should do.
Just got in those “additional reinforcement” parts I mentioned in an earlier post here and have installed the first and most critical of those earlier and have yet to try that out. Only concern now is that Trueforce will vibrate my desk apart. That would suck some big giant donkey balls. Got one more “reinforcement” mod to do. Will need some more hardware before installing that one though.
May post some pictures of this journey thus far. Will put it all under a spoiler tag though.
TLDR; This is a quantum leap over the G29. Trueforce is a game changer.
Thanks to @LOGI_Rich, @Oshawa-Joe, @Marcus Garvey and everyone who posted their thoughts and settings here.
My settings progress thus far;
Installed G-Hub, connected Pedals and Power to Wheel, connected Wheel to PC, powered it up and G-Hub immediately welcomed me to all things G-Pro. Fiddled around a bit getting to know G-Hub, wheel set to 11nm while on PC was way too strong for my arms these days but I left it there, guided by advice from @Oshawa-Joe , and would adjust the in game FFB Torque to suit. Went to the pedal screen and fiddled with those settings some. 100% on the load cell was impossible, 1% was lame. I went through several iterations before I settled initially on 15%. Apparently, me muscles, being on their 62nd lap around the sun, are not prepared to deal with this gear at anywhere near full strength. Factory spring and elastomers still in cylinder. Accelerator pedal feels much stiffer and butt tons more travel than the 29. Clutch feels fine the way it is and, since I won’t likely be using it much, at least until Logitech offers an H-Gate shifter, not really all that concerned with tweaking it to suit. Set the wheel to recommended spec as shown here for GT7.
Took my trusty ’16 Camaro 598.91PP out to Tokyo. I have 6,742 miles on this car at that grind race (minus the 2 races I’ve done with it on the Pro, all have been with the 29) and, I own a ‘15 5th Gen IRL, with over 80K on the clock, for comparison. Granted, I don’t drive it anywhere approaching as hard I do in game but, I have done about 4 runs auto-cross, 4 runs down the ¼ mile and 4 20+- minute sessions around NCM Motorsports Park back in ’16 & ’17.
Dropped the FFB Torque to 4 from 8 and the FFB Sensitivity from 10 to 5. Don’t really want this thing to tear my 11 year old modded Wheelstand Pro to shreds. Took me a couple three tries to get somewhat accustomed to the wheel’s new level of FFB. It was considerably heavier in my hands, compared to the 29. I also had farther to reach to the pedals, since I mounted those about 3” farther back on the stand. The bar and bolt used to hold the G29 pedals in place appears to work admirably holding the Pro set.
Been a long time since I’ve lost one of these races but I did finish 2nd, right beside Kokubun. Aside from the FFB level, there was no “Wow this is crazy better!” moment during the race. Finished wondering how I could tell if “Trueforce” was actually enabled and how I would tell if it was or was not. Began questioning the perspicacity of the decision to upgrade.
Third Impression – Second drive and the “Wow!” moment.
Later in the day, after lunch and a Christmas gift wrapping session with the wife, I got hooked up with one @Marcus Garvey, who has owned a G-Pro for several months now. We were, ostensibly, practicing for his Holiday Event, running under the SNAIL banner. Ulterior motives on my end were to pick his brain for tips, tricks and tweaks for the new gear. He didn’t seem to mind, and in fact had made the offer to do just that, after I’d mentioned I’d ordered it.
The first thing we discovered was, I had the output Trueforce uses turned off in game. Since I’d never planned to use the DS or VR controllers to ever drive in GT7, I’d shut off controller vibration 2 years ago and hadn’t given it any thought since then. Got that turned on and the strength of it set to 100, jumped back into that old Jaguar and the WOW moment hit. It kept on hitting too. What a difference! Motor vibrations, tires, curbs, all of it! O to the M & G! Little rumble strips felt little, big ones felt big, wheel traction chatter was in there too. The Jaguar at Goodwood, the MB 196 at Watkins and finished off the night at Brands in the DB3S. With a few short breaks, here and there, it was probably the longest batch of driving I’ve done yet in GT7+VR. It was actually enough to make me feel the strain from the new gear and I was tired and not particularly feeling very spry by 9:30P and decided to hit the rack. Earliest I’ve been to bed on a Saturday night since I can’t remember when.
I’ve noticed, when I go to bed so early, I wake equally early. Was awake at 5AM this morning. Had to be quiet so as not to disturb the better half so piddled around on my PC for an hour or two, getting screenshots of settings to put in the spreadsheet I’m building and have available if any wants a peek. Got bored around 8AM, turned the stereo down way low, pulled on the VR and audio headset and ran off another Tokyo in the Camaro with Trueforce working. Another batch of WOW moments. I could actually feel motor vibrations at the pedals. Me and the Pro still got some acclimatin’ ta’ do, it would appear, as I only finished in first by a shade over 3 seconds. Used to be I’d have 10 to 20 seconds on 2nd place.
Ran off a Gr4 race with some random folks who joined the room I opened to see how a car I’ve been prepping for another SNAIL Series I may get to run my first race on the 10th of January. Another WOW moment in how these cars with aero load up the wheel once the aero weight kicks in on the front end and pretty much lightens to almost nothing under about 30MPH. Just as I expect it should do.
Just got in those “additional reinforcement” parts I mentioned in an earlier post here and have installed the first and most critical of those earlier and have yet to try that out. Only concern now is that Trueforce will vibrate my desk apart. That would suck some big giant donkey balls. Got one more “reinforcement” mod to do. Will need some more hardware before installing that one though.
May post some pictures of this journey thus far. Will put it all under a spoiler tag though.
TLDR; This is a quantum leap over the G29. Trueforce is a game changer.
Thanks to @LOGI_Rich, @Oshawa-Joe, @Marcus Garvey and everyone who posted their thoughts and settings here.
My settings progress thus far;
- 42
- United Kingdom
@Dragonwhisky
ACC has the best FFB with the G-Pro wheel (on console) if you wanted to try that out.
I've not put on the PSVR2 and played GT7 in months because I just can't get on with the handling & FFB in GT7 anymore, it feels poor. ACC is that good!
ACC has the best FFB with the G-Pro wheel (on console) if you wanted to try that out.
I've not put on the PSVR2 and played GT7 in months because I just can't get on with the handling & FFB in GT7 anymore, it feels poor. ACC is that good!
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Oshawa-Joe
Premium
- 5,153
- Hillsdale
- Oshawa-Joe
We at SNAIL call @Dragonwhisky the StoryTeller.
Dragonwhisky
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I'm pretty much in the VR or nothing camp now, and have been for some time, when it comes to racing games anyway. Thanks for the tip though.
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- 40
- Lyon/Rhône Alpes/France
- NicoGmbh
Hello,
For those who might be interested, I bought and tested the 3Drap mod for the accelerator.
I found the throttle stroke uncomfortable because it was too long for my taste (ankle flexion).
I installed all the spacers and used the brown spring.
For information, I have disassembled the clutch pedal (I only use the paddles for the transmission).
So the two pedals are directly in the axis of my legs.
I play mainly on GT7.
With these spacers and after calibration, I reach 100% of the gaz for a 60% calibration in the game parameters.
Personally, I find it very nice and comfortable.
Merry Christmas to all.
GAZ/CLUCTH UPGRADE
For those who might be interested, I bought and tested the 3Drap mod for the accelerator.
I found the throttle stroke uncomfortable because it was too long for my taste (ankle flexion).
I installed all the spacers and used the brown spring.
For information, I have disassembled the clutch pedal (I only use the paddles for the transmission).
So the two pedals are directly in the axis of my legs.
I play mainly on GT7.
With these spacers and after calibration, I reach 100% of the gaz for a 60% calibration in the game parameters.
Personally, I find it very nice and comfortable.
Merry Christmas to all.
GAZ/CLUCTH UPGRADE
- 40
- Lyon/Rhône Alpes/France
- NicoGmbh
Great feedback.
There is a learning curve with this material to get 100% of the performance.
Fortunately, the advice and sharing we find here help us to move faster in the right direction.
Oshawa’s advice has been invaluable.
For the brakes, I had a feeling close to yours.
However, I quickly switched to the hardest composition with a 25% brake force to keep comfort.
I find the feeling much better.
Please complete the spreadsheet I posted on page 160.
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- 1
- Australia
Hello GTPlanet Community,
I've been a long-time reader of this forum and have really enjoyed seeing everyone’s enthusiasm for the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel since its release, especially with the recently announced accessories.
Unfortunately, I’m joining the discussion with a concern about my own Pro Racing Wheel. For context, I purchased the base and pedals on November 29, 2023. Early on, I used the wheel twice a week, and for the past six months, I’ve been using it once a week after work on Fridays for the weekly challenges and time trials. I haven’t ventured into other racing games much, as I’m fortunate to have a PSVR 2 with GT7, which offers such an immersive experience that everything else feels underwhelming by comparison.
During use, I’ve been extremely careful with the wheel, always wearing TrueForce Racing Gloves when using it. As you can imagine, the wheel, alongside the PS5 and PSVR 2 represents a significant investment. I upgraded from a Logitech G25, which had been donated to me years ago by a friend, and I chose Logitech again due to the G25’s exceptional reliability when looking for a DD wheel.
However, two weeks ago, I noticed an issue with the bundled wheel’s directional pad. While the up, left, and right buttons work flawlessly, the down button now requires extra pressure to register. Often, I hear the click, but the input doesn’t register, whether navigating the PS5 menu or in-game. This is especially disappointing, as I’ve just passed the one-year warranty mark. I had hoped the wheel would last for many years, given my careful handling and limited use just a few hours a week (everything else works like new).
I’ve updated the firmware and tested the wheel on a PC, but the issue persists. A search of this thread and online forums suggests directional pad problems aren’t common. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Should I still log a support case with Logitech, even though the warranty has expired? Is there any chance of a warranty grace period or a repair option?
Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated, this issue has really put a damper on my holiday racing plans and I'm concerned the down button will stop registering all together in future.
I've been a long-time reader of this forum and have really enjoyed seeing everyone’s enthusiasm for the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel since its release, especially with the recently announced accessories.
Unfortunately, I’m joining the discussion with a concern about my own Pro Racing Wheel. For context, I purchased the base and pedals on November 29, 2023. Early on, I used the wheel twice a week, and for the past six months, I’ve been using it once a week after work on Fridays for the weekly challenges and time trials. I haven’t ventured into other racing games much, as I’m fortunate to have a PSVR 2 with GT7, which offers such an immersive experience that everything else feels underwhelming by comparison.
During use, I’ve been extremely careful with the wheel, always wearing TrueForce Racing Gloves when using it. As you can imagine, the wheel, alongside the PS5 and PSVR 2 represents a significant investment. I upgraded from a Logitech G25, which had been donated to me years ago by a friend, and I chose Logitech again due to the G25’s exceptional reliability when looking for a DD wheel.
However, two weeks ago, I noticed an issue with the bundled wheel’s directional pad. While the up, left, and right buttons work flawlessly, the down button now requires extra pressure to register. Often, I hear the click, but the input doesn’t register, whether navigating the PS5 menu or in-game. This is especially disappointing, as I’ve just passed the one-year warranty mark. I had hoped the wheel would last for many years, given my careful handling and limited use just a few hours a week (everything else works like new).
I’ve updated the firmware and tested the wheel on a PC, but the issue persists. A search of this thread and online forums suggests directional pad problems aren’t common. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Should I still log a support case with Logitech, even though the warranty has expired? Is there any chance of a warranty grace period or a repair option?
Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated, this issue has really put a damper on my holiday racing plans and I'm concerned the down button will stop registering all together in future.
Oshawa-Joe
Premium
- 5,153
- Hillsdale
- Oshawa-Joe
Hello GTPlanet Community,
I've been a long-time reader of this forum and have really enjoyed seeing everyone’s enthusiasm for the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel since its release, especially with the recently announced accessories.
Unfortunately, I’m joining the discussion with a concern about my own Pro Racing Wheel. For context, I purchased the base and pedals on November 29, 2023. Early on, I used the wheel twice a week, and for the past six months, I’ve been using it once a week after work on Fridays for the weekly challenges and time trials. I haven’t ventured into other racing games much, as I’m fortunate to have a PSVR 2 with GT7, which offers such an immersive experience that everything else feels underwhelming by comparison.
During use, I’ve been extremely careful with the wheel, always wearing TrueForce Racing Gloves when using it. As you can imagine, the wheel, alongside the PS5 and PSVR 2 represents a significant investment. I upgraded from a Logitech G25, which had been donated to me years ago by a friend, and I chose Logitech again due to the G25’s exceptional reliability when looking for a DD wheel.
However, two weeks ago, I noticed an issue with the bundled wheel’s directional pad. While the up, left, and right buttons work flawlessly, the down button now requires extra pressure to register. Often, I hear the click, but the input doesn’t register, whether navigating the PS5 menu or in-game. This is especially disappointing, as I’ve just passed the one-year warranty mark. I had hoped the wheel would last for many years, given my careful handling and limited use just a few hours a week (everything else works like new).
I’ve updated the firmware and tested the wheel on a PC, but the issue persists. A search of this thread and online forums suggests directional pad problems aren’t common. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Should I still log a support case with Logitech, even though the warranty has expired? Is there any chance of a warranty grace period or a repair option?
Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated, this issue has really put a damper on my holiday racing plans and I'm concerned the down button will stop registering all together in future.
I believe you have a 2 year warranty.
- 87
- United States
Yes the 3d wrap mod made a big big difference for me too! Too long of a travel, more comfortable using only 60 percent of the throw . I’m using 3 gray rings for spring preload with stock softest Logi spring, and only 2 yellow bump stops. It also helps the giant cheap Dayton shaker from hitting the pedal plate when throttle is pressed all the way. You can probably just find similar pieces that work, but this mod did legitimately make me faster for sure. Much faster response and feel. And I’m old and slow.
Ngasa pedal covers are interesting too, drill a couple holes in the backplate and countersink the underside spots of the pad. They are huge but really comfy. I wear kart shoes, it they would be really good with just socks too.
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Dragonwhisky
Premium
- 6,982
- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
There are worse things I've been called by SNAILs, I'm sure. Here comes another story. This one will be more pictorial than text though so...
Thanks!
Indeed. On all counts
I've already ramped it up from 15% to 20% and now I've finished my Wheel stand reinforcement mods and after a SNAIL Sunday batch of races, am thinking it will probably steadily go higher. Gotta' get my left foot retrained. It's pretty much locked in on G27 and G29 pedals and those things might as well be air, compared to what this load cell is capable of.
Working on that, in between getting things ready for the remainder of this post. Made my edits, froze the headers, you could delete rows 29-35 if you like.
On with the show and tell I reckon.
on the 19th and brought the boxes in from the cold
as it came out of its shells
from the Wheelstand Pro and some minor cleaning.
The 29 pedal set was secured down on the main bars just in front of that fat cross pipe back there against the wall with the bar and bolt that came wiith either the wheelstand or the G27 I bought back in 2013
The 29 pedal set was secured down on the main bars just in front of that fat cross pipe back there against the wall with the bar and bolt that came wiith either the wheelstand or the G27 I bought back in 2013
on top of that fat bar, up against the wall.
to accommodate that third screw the 29 does not require, wheel secured to plate successfully without any further modification and post secured to plate, after a bit of frustration involving getting the serrated washer between the bar mount tabs on the plate and the bar and getting everything aligned for the bolt to slip through.
and in place at the desk.
how away and to wobbly it was during my first 3 sessions with it, so glad I'd had the forethought to order in the parts to secure the wheel post to the desk.
to keeping the chair from moving away when braking hard.
It wasn't a problem with the 27 & 29, since those pedal's resistance is pretty much just air. My left foot has been trained to be light on the pedals with those two sets. This would require a bit more than the caster stoppers I'd been using.
What was this,
is now this,
That chair ain't moving backwards now. Forwards either. It can pivot some side to side on that tether though. It does make getting in and out of the chair just a tad "fun".
It wasn't a problem with the 27 & 29, since those pedal's resistance is pretty much just air. My left foot has been trained to be light on the pedals with those two sets. This would require a bit more than the caster stoppers I'd been using.
What was this,
is now this,
That chair ain't moving backwards now. Forwards either. It can pivot some side to side on that tether though. It does make getting in and out of the chair just a tad "fun".
I had to remove an LED strip that ran around, under the front edge of the desk. Almost tossed that in the trash but, said to self 'Self, you could have foot well lighting if you hang that thing in the back and get the remote working'. So, that's what happened.
the weakest points in this "rig" are the attachment point between post and wheel mounting plate and the chair back. Pretty sure that chair back will break before anything else though. I'd have to stand on the brake with both feet, I think, to do that. I don't plan to ever run the load-cell where I might have to go all elephant stomp on the brake pedal. So, not much worry on that front. I do have a stupid habit of pulling on the wheel, as if it were the reins of some stubborn and/or horny stallion, when in the heat of battle. Been trying to break myself of that idiot impulse for 12 years or more, without much noticeable success. We'll see how well that serrated washer and bolt tightness holds up to me aping around with it.
Road on!
~Dragonwhisky
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- 111
- Orange City, FL
- Radliffpower
Deleted, sorry wrong forum
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- 111
- Orange City, FL
- Radliffpower
Deleted, again sorry wrong forum
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- 111
- Orange City, FL
- Radliffpower
Deleted
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- 54
- Olathe Kansas
- 279
- Uruguay
- Sinnicko
I was starting to have some lower back pain (never had it in my life) and it was coincidental with the change to a load cell brake.
I tried with a lumbar pillow, played with different angles of my seat and also tried with different angles of the pedal plate but the pain was increasing in an alarming way.
After some web research, I found that the problem maybe related to the angle of my left leg (like 30º off the axis of my spine) doing so much pressure than before.
I removed the clutch and moved the brake to the maximum left possible (I must say that the brakes cord is a bit short) to align it with the axis of my left leg.
In just one week the pain was gone.
Merry Xmas to all!
- 6,516
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
I swapped my clutch and brake pedals around to achieve the same result. Also worked a treat. With the clutch now being in the centre I've just got to remember which pedal is the brake when I jump in a real car. 😀
A Merry Christmas to all G Pro(ers) as well.
- 16
- United States
- ock_10
I 3D printed some pedal travel reducing spacers in TPU flexible filament. I designed 2 versions, one pushes against the end of the pedal shaft, while the other version (like 3DRap) goes around the pedal shaft and pushes against the end of the shaft tube. Both designs work, but with the external spacer, the end of the shaft tube now sees force loads. While with the internal spacer, the end of the pedal shaft already normally bottoms out against a felt pad in the bottom of the shaft tube. But the internal spacer must have no resistance when inserted into the shaft tube, or else you might not get it out again without maybe trying to jam a metal screw or something into the hole in the spacer. So depending on printer calibration it may need to be scaled down in XY directions or have elephant foot flaring trimmed off.
3d files here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6887845
3d files here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6887845
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- 16
- United States
- ock_10
My new G Pro wheel which had a loose screw on the wheelbase shaft got loose again after a week of playing. In the middle of trying to gold license test IA-8, I could make the knocking noise again by tilting the wheel between 6 and 12 o'clock. It only took a minute to retighten with my cut down 3mm hex key, but this is disappointing. Might have to RMA the new wheel after all? Though on this forum or reddit I think somebody got a replacement for the same reason, and the replacement eventually started doing the same thing, so retightening the screw may just be a regular thing? I think some people might not notice because you don't normally tilt the wheel enough to make the knocking sound until you start turning the wheel past 180 degrees hand over hand. This might not be common but I found 2 separate reddit videos showing the same problem.
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I might be missing it, but are there in-game settings that I need to tweak when using the G Pro wheel? For example, the above FFB Max torque and sensitivity, are they applicable to the wheel or is it just the controller?
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Logitech's recommended game settings page has screenshots showing FFB max torque 10, sensitivity 1. Torque 10 definitely felt stronger to me from the default of 5, and also gives you a warning you might be hurt. Haven't tried sensitivity 1 yet.
In-Game Settings for Pro Wheels
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Dragonwhisky
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There are several settings in game to tweak.
GTMenu>>Options>>Controllers>>Vibration function; Vibration Function (P1) set to On to enable the output Trueforce uses and set Vibration Strength as you will. There is a setting on the wheel, TF Audio that you can adjust in conjunction with these in game settings.
GTMenu>>Options>>Controllers>>Steering Controller Settings; this is where you can check and calibrate your wheel, pedals (adjust dead-zones & pedal travel limits) and shifter.
When you are at the track; Settings>>Controller Settings - Everything under the Controller header is generally accepted to affect the DS controller only (arguable) and the Steering Force Feedback settings; Force Feedback Max Torque and Force Feedback Sensitivity affect wheel controllers. I don't know if either of these settings affect the DS at all. I've never used a pad (DS controller) to drive in any GT title.
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