Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
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- Uruguay
- Sinnicko
I was performing the qualifier for dragon tail with the Supra last week, and after the update, it felt like the wheel had lost some FFB detail. Felt like it was lacking front end grip..
Hello all. I have just purchased my first wheel ever and I am getting a bad time calibrating it for GT7.
I have tried the recommended settings of Logitech https://support.logi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/8358055253271-In-Game-Settings-for-Pro-Wheels but wheel is super hard to move, super strong on crashes and impossible to move in corners.
When going in straight line without doing anything the wheel vibrates super hard and moves and oscillates alone. I am using a playseat trophy.
Also when I crash or brake super hard sometimes the driver inside the game rotates the wheel alone to a side.
Could somebody help me sharing his settings inside the game and also on the wheel itself to make it right? Version 1.56. I am a bit frustrated to be honest bought this one for just playing this game. Tried other settings in YouTube Instagram and reddit but nothing good still. Using latest firmware.
Is this normal ? Thanks.
I have tried the recommended settings of Logitech https://support.logi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/8358055253271-In-Game-Settings-for-Pro-Wheels but wheel is super hard to move, super strong on crashes and impossible to move in corners.
When going in straight line without doing anything the wheel vibrates super hard and moves and oscillates alone. I am using a playseat trophy.
Also when I crash or brake super hard sometimes the driver inside the game rotates the wheel alone to a side.
Could somebody help me sharing his settings inside the game and also on the wheel itself to make it right? Version 1.56. I am a bit frustrated to be honest bought this one for just playing this game. Tried other settings in YouTube Instagram and reddit but nothing good still. Using latest firmware.
Is this normal ? Thanks.
Last edited:
- 60
- Olathe Kansas
- 9
- United States
- damons_cameo
After 1.55 I dialed back the settings in both the wheel and game, mainly to negate what was a unpleasant jolt happening with traction loss taking a turn. Numerous times I felt it and was actually concerned with the feeling in the base. After 1.56, and with the karts and SF for nations this week, I felt i wanted more feedback. I’m now at max on wheel and 8 in game. This feels great to me, better than before 1.55 even, with no jolt/bang experienced since.
- 77
- United States
Here's my situation. I am on my 2nd G Pro wheel, having returned the 1st one, thinking there was something glitched with it.
As with all of you, I assume, GT7 doesn't care what "Force" I have the wheel set. It runs the wheel at 11nm and then you back that down to what you want the torque to be, in Controller Settings, in GT7.
I don't like that. So I prefer to keep the wheel at 5.1 or 5.2 depending on the car, and keeping the Controller Setting torque at 8. I have to get into the wheel and make the change for it to "push" to the game.
This is small potatoes compared to my real problem, and why I might return the 2nd wheel:
After a random amount of time - from immediately upon loading in to a track, to a few laps, to hours later, I sometimes lose all "road feel" in the wheel. I don't lose torque, I don't lose force. That doesn't change. But the car feels like it's rolling along on ice, or wet grass, or hydroplaning. It's not, and it's not behaving as such, but the wheel has stopped telling me that I'm still rolling on asphalt.
If you want to know what that feels like, turn the vibration (in global GT7 settings) down to 0.
Note - I keep controller vibration (in GT7's global settings) at 100.
When this happens, there are only two ways to restore it: Simply restarting the wheel doesn't work.
You have to either, restart the wheel in G923 compatibility mode, which is awful, or restart the PS5.
For what I paid, I cannot keep doing this. I suck as it is, I don't want to take the final turn at Laguna wondering if I'm about to lose FFB again.
Has anyone figured out a fix for this?
The wheel is updated. The PS5 and GT7 are, of course, updated. The wheel never overheats. The PS5 never overheats. The main PS5 controller is always on the USB-C wire.
The history of this happening is as follows:
On my original G923, it would happen fairly often after extended play sessions.
On my original G Pro, it started happening after about a week. I checked and saw there was a firmware update. I updated, and it started happening again.
On my 2nd G Pro, it arrived fully updated. Worked great for a week, then it started happening again.
I do not know what causes it, and I haven't figured out a trick to get it to not happen. This must be an issue with the game or the PS5, since it's happening across the spectrum of Logitech wheels. I have spoken with several other people online who say this doesn't happen to them.
I have a ticket open with Logitech.
As with all of you, I assume, GT7 doesn't care what "Force" I have the wheel set. It runs the wheel at 11nm and then you back that down to what you want the torque to be, in Controller Settings, in GT7.
I don't like that. So I prefer to keep the wheel at 5.1 or 5.2 depending on the car, and keeping the Controller Setting torque at 8. I have to get into the wheel and make the change for it to "push" to the game.
This is small potatoes compared to my real problem, and why I might return the 2nd wheel:
After a random amount of time - from immediately upon loading in to a track, to a few laps, to hours later, I sometimes lose all "road feel" in the wheel. I don't lose torque, I don't lose force. That doesn't change. But the car feels like it's rolling along on ice, or wet grass, or hydroplaning. It's not, and it's not behaving as such, but the wheel has stopped telling me that I'm still rolling on asphalt.
If you want to know what that feels like, turn the vibration (in global GT7 settings) down to 0.
Note - I keep controller vibration (in GT7's global settings) at 100.
When this happens, there are only two ways to restore it: Simply restarting the wheel doesn't work.
You have to either, restart the wheel in G923 compatibility mode, which is awful, or restart the PS5.
For what I paid, I cannot keep doing this. I suck as it is, I don't want to take the final turn at Laguna wondering if I'm about to lose FFB again.
Has anyone figured out a fix for this?
The wheel is updated. The PS5 and GT7 are, of course, updated. The wheel never overheats. The PS5 never overheats. The main PS5 controller is always on the USB-C wire.
The history of this happening is as follows:
On my original G923, it would happen fairly often after extended play sessions.
On my original G Pro, it started happening after about a week. I checked and saw there was a firmware update. I updated, and it started happening again.
On my 2nd G Pro, it arrived fully updated. Worked great for a week, then it started happening again.
I do not know what causes it, and I haven't figured out a trick to get it to not happen. This must be an issue with the game or the PS5, since it's happening across the spectrum of Logitech wheels. I have spoken with several other people online who say this doesn't happen to them.
I have a ticket open with Logitech.
- 9
- United States
- damons_cameo
Mine shut off, rather lost FFB, twice. Both times were at the exact same turn in the second chicane at Monza, transitioning from left to right and hopping the kerb. FFB was gone but steering and pedals still responsive for a lap or two until the race was finished. This happened twice in a span of three days, and hasn’t happened since. Exact same spot and which I couldn’t replicate again so I chalked it up to a game/sync error of some kind and never sought a fix or opened a ticket. Though it was concerning enough at the time that if there was any more problem I was going to.
- 77
- United States
Dragonwhisky
Premium
- 7,164
- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
This runs a little contrary to what most others have experienced and set their wheels at. I would recommend you set the wheel at its full capacity for FFB, 11Nm, all the other settings as recommended and only change the in game settings to what you prefer. Keep in mind, when you reduce the in game FFB less than 5, you may want to run the FFB Sensitivity up until you like what you feel. There's a nice little google sheet for what several folks here have set their wheels and game at. The majority leave the wheel Strength at 11.
As I understand the relationship between the wheel and game, 11Nm at the wheel and FFB 10 in game is 100% signal input. Running the wheel at 11Nm with in game FFB 1 is 10% input. Setting the wheel at 8Nm limits the wheel to 72.7% capacity and setting the in game FFB will be a percentage of that 72.7%. Setting the wheel at that 5.1Nm is limiting the wheel to 46.3% of its capacity and then running the in game at 8 is 80% of that. Of course, my maths could be all wrong here, since I'm not that good with complex mathematics, nor do I have the benefit of having built the wheel or program that sends it signals. Going by what I've just laid out, your running that wheel at approximately 4Nm of signal strength which is, effectively, 36% of its rated capacity. @LOGI_Rich can confirm or reeducate me more accurately. He may have gone over this relationship already in this thread.
There’s one other thing that should work: quit and restart GT7… or does that not help?
A couple of things to check:
1. Make sure that the DualSense controller is not on at all.
2. Only connect directly to the console without a USB extension and try the different USB ports on the console.
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