Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Changing in game sensitivity from 1 to 5 or 10 helps. Just a quick fix until PD puts out an update.

@LOGI_Rich
Have PD fix trueforce back to June 2024 levels while they are building the patch.
I wish Rich had that power.
I've been moaning about this for probably a year now, it's out of Logitechs hands, this is all PD.

I tried contacting them but you basically can't.

It's a **** look for Logitechs wheel but unfortunately the way it's been designed means PD have the power to screw us over.
 

This validates the issue plainly. Still no sign of a Patch/Hot Fix and I’m sorely disappointed ahead of tomorrow. There’s still time. But I’m not going to attempt Round 1 unless the patch goes live. I’ll just ruin my SR/DR. Polyphony if you are reading this please I urge you to get this fixed as soon as possible. There are many G Pro Users in here who have been training and looking forward to the GTWS all year to have this dumped upon us the week before is very sad.

Logitech and PD need to have a better relationship in establishing a hard stop on changes to their own hardware/software within the Game as this reflects poorly on Logi themselves but isn’t representative of what the wheel is fully capable of. Further communication is strongly needed to avoid situations like these. 😔
 
No issues here. I have not felt the slightest change. Have raced last week B (Monza) extensively, and now race B at Catalunya. Frankly I have no clue what people are talking about.

(It could perhaps be that I am on an older G Pro firmware. Have not updated for at least 6 months.)
If you don't mind sharing, what settings are you using?
 
No issues here. I have not felt the slightest change. Have raced last week B (Monza) extensively, and now race B at Catalunya. Frankly I have no clue what people are talking about.

(It could perhaps be that I am on an older G Pro firmware. Have not updated for at least 6 months.)
That's very interesting. Could you tell us what your Vibration is set to?

I spoke with someone else who always had that at 0 and didn't notice. So they never knew what was missing anyhow. They were impressed with the detail they get now in TT after turning it up.
 
So much nonsense in the video above. Inverted FFB...what? Then turns Torque in game up to 10...wow, that's like 2 T598s, thats not right, for safety maybe PD needs to step in here...what?
 
That's very interesting. Could you tell us what your Vibration is set to?

I spoke with someone else who always had that at 0 and didn't notice. So they never knew what was missing anyhow. They were impressed with the detail they get now in TT after turning it up.
Vibration is 150.
 
No issues here. I have not felt the slightest change. Have raced last week B (Monza) extensively, and now race B at Catalunya. Frankly I have no clue what people are talking about.

(It could perhaps be that I am on an older G Pro firmware. Have not updated for at least 6 months.)
Thanks for sharing! I too haven't noticed anything yet. I'm using (mostly) recommended Logitech settings for GT7. Strength on the wheel is set to 11Nm, in-game to 5. Sensitivity is at 0.
Like you, the firmware hasn't been updated since I got the wheel 4 months ago.
 
I don't even know how to respond. Ok. We aren't talking about bringing TF magically back, just increasing the feel of and connection to the road without it. There is a huge difference between 1 and 10 sensitivity.
We aren't even asking them to bring true force back.... But rather how we lose it when we enter online races/lobbies.

I've experienced this glitch continually, even when things are working relatively well....it's just more dramatic after 1.57.

@LOGI_Rich what would you recommend this community do to get PDs attention on this? Specifically.... A letter with signatures?.... Something public directly to them through one of their social media channels?

My feelings on all of this are more than well documented, as you know. Personally, I don't feel you deserve some of this blowback. That being said, I'm on record as saying that just throwing the ball back to PD.... However true that may be, it leaves us completely powerless.

Now I think you're seeing that frustration is reaching a critical state.

I believe we deserve some transparency on how all of this works at this stage.

That or....
1. Offer drive hub type of functionality specific to your gear with the adapter

2. Offer a way/deal for us to add Xbox functionality....like a rim rebate for users that switch

3. Maybe a discount on ACC on PC or something similar to incentivise us to go ACC on PS5

All of us here have paid more for this equipment than for the PS5 itself. We paid a premium for this equipment specifically for it to run seamlessly on PS5 and gt7. SONY needs to get this right....it's outrageous.
 
Thanks for sharing! I too haven't noticed anything yet. I'm using (mostly) recommended Logitech settings for GT7. Strength on the wheel is set to 11Nm, in-game to 5. Sensitivity is at 0.
Like you, the firmware hasn't been updated since I got the wheel 4 months ago.
@LOGI_Rich yep...like I was saying older firmware isn't impacted by whatever glitch changes settings when going in race vs TT etc.

Why doesn't Logitech allow us to roll back the drivers?
 
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Thanks for sharing! I too haven't noticed anything yet. I'm using (mostly) recommended Logitech settings for GT7. Strength on the wheel is set to 11Nm, in-game to 5. Sensitivity is at 0.
Like you, the firmware hasn't been updated since I got the wheel 4 months ago.
@dude0702 can you verify what firmware you are running?
 
That's very interesting. Could you tell us what your Vibration is set to?

I spoke with someone else who always had that at 0 and didn't notice. So they never knew what was missing anyhow. They were impressed with the detail they get now in TT after turning it up.
we've found a solution for online lobbies....so any league drivers.... apparently if you are the last driver to enter....don't have to be last in lobby itself...just last to join...

Apparently then the FFB works...

From a good source....but I have not 100% verified. Please update if anyone here tests this
 
we've found a solution for online lobbies....so any league drivers.... apparently if you are the last driver to enter....don't have to be last in lobby itself...just last to join...

Apparently then the FFB works...

From a good source....but I have not 100% verified. Please update if anyone here tests this

And then a random joins...or what if there are multiple trueforce users...I've been through this.

On a positive note, after the initial shock of losing trueforce and changing settings, I'm back to my original settings, bumped up torque by 1, and running as quick or even quicker than before.
 
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@Tommy moon old FW is also affected, the same way that Thrustmaster T-GT owners are affected - it's a global issue for the haptic support in multiplayer. A FW rollback is only ever going to help if an issue is introduced in a FW update (not the case here)... but then the better option is still to produce a newer FW that addresses the issue rather than rolling back.

I know Polyphony are treating this with high importance.
 
We aren't even asking them to bring true force back.... But rather how we lose it when we enter online races/lobbies.

I've experienced this glitch continually, even when things are working relatively well....it's just more dramatic after 1.57.

@LOGI_Rich what would you recommend this community do to get PDs attention on this? Specifically.... A letter with signatures?.... Something public directly to them through one of their social media channels?

My feelings on all of this are more than well documented, as you know. Personally, I don't feel you deserve some of this blowback. That being said, I'm on record as saying that just throwing the ball back to PD.... However true that may be, it leaves us completely powerless.

Now I think you're seeing that frustration is reaching a critical state.

I believe we deserve some transparency on how all of this works at this stage.

That or....
1. Offer drive hub type of functionality specific to your gear with the adapter

2. Offer a way/deal for us to add Xbox functionality....like a rim rebate for users that switch

3. Maybe a discount on ACC on PC or something similar to incentivise us to go ACC on PS5

All of us here have paid more for this equipment than for the PS5 itself. We paid a premium for this equipment specifically for it to run seamlessly on PS5 and gt7. SONY needs to get this right....it's outrageous.
Were you able to get everything sorted? Or did you get the rebates and discounts ?
 
Tomorrow I'll be testing the Wheel again Online so praying we're all good to go from that point of view! Just so thankful to PD for implementing a fix relatively quickly.

Also on a positive note for UK Logi G Pro Owners awaiting the Momo Wheels...

Momo UK have finally put up the Pre Order pages for the GT 320 & GT 290 :gtpflag:
First batch will be reportedly sent out early April!

MOMO SIM GT-Racer 290 x Logitech G Steering Wheel

MOMO SIM GT 320 x Logitech G Steering Wheel
 
New Pro wheel user here. Could anybody please provide the latest wheel and GT7 settings they currently use.

Are Logitech support page recommended settings still valid? (after last patch?)

If I want around 5-6 nM torque, do I set base to 6nM and in force in GT7 to 10 or base at 11nM and in GT7 on 6?

GT slider is like a % of max torque that can be used set by the value in the base?

Furtheremore what brake pressure are people using?

Thanks in advance
 
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New Pro wheel user here. Could anybody please provide the latest wheel and GT7 settings they currently use.

Are Logitech support page recommended settings still valid? (after last patch?)

If I want around 5-6 nM torque, do I set base to 6nM and in force in GT7 to 10 or base at 11nM and in GT7 on 6?

GT slider is like a % of max torque that can be used set by the value in the base?

Furtheremore what brake pressure are people using?

Thanks in advance
Yes, recommended settings are still valid.

Advice: always set FFB on 11 on the base. In game, it depends on you and the car you're using (me, for example, I have FFB on 5/6 and FFB Sensitivity on 5).

The same for brake pressure. If you're a normal person, it's beween 35% and 60%. If your left leg is augmented, then you can go up to 100%.
 
@LOGI_Rich One other question. Why is advised to set FFB in GT7 on 1 and the FFB audio on 100? Wil the 1 in GT not be too low to to feel enough teue force? Or is it more like because it is already set to 100 on the base you only need a small value in GT7.
 
This runs a little contrary to what most others have experienced and set their wheels at. I would recommend you set the wheel at its full capacity for FFB, 11Nm, all the other settings as recommended and only change the in game settings to what you prefer. Keep in mind, when you reduce the in game FFB less than 5, you may want to run the FFB Sensitivity up until you like what you feel. There's a nice little google sheet for what several folks here have set their wheels and game at. The majority leave the wheel Strength at 11.

As I understand the relationship between the wheel and game, 11Nm at the wheel and FFB 10 in game is 100% signal input. Running the wheel at 11Nm with in game FFB 1 is 10% input. Setting the wheel at 8Nm limits the wheel to 72.7% capacity and setting the in game FFB will be a percentage of that 72.7%. Setting the wheel at that 5.1Nm is limiting the wheel to 46.3% of its capacity and then running the in game at 8 is 80% of that. Of course, my maths could be all wrong here, since I'm not that good with complex mathematics, nor do I have the benefit of having built the wheel or program that sends it signals. Going by what I've just laid out, you're running that wheel at approximately 4Nm of signal strength which is, effectively, 36% of its rated capacity. @LOGI_Rich can confirm or reeducate me more accurately. He may have gone over this relationship already in this thread.

It’s the other way round - GT7’s setting sets the max and then the wheel base setting works within that range.
The above from Rich refutes what I was, apparently misunderstanding, about the wheel/game relationship. So now I'm more confused than ever. What Rich is saying above indicates we should set the in game FFB and Sensitivty at MAX, or some level, and make all further adjustments at the wheel, if we want to change it per car, which I don't. Fiddling with the wheel settings while in VR is a bit of a non-starter.
 
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