Logitech G29 / G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel

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Just picked one of these up this morning as a stop gap until Fanatec arrives tomorrow

Quite impressed, not as smooth as TM but far less likely to break

Whatever its traits you soon get used to them

How do you adjust the degrees of rotation?
 
I'm actually surprised that Sim Racing Garage is reviewing the G29. I always thought he reviewed items from the higher end of the sim racing spectrum. I'm interested to see what he says about the G29 after he opens it up.
 
Dopplegagger
I'm actually surprised that Sim Racing Garage is reviewing the G29. I always thought he reviewed items from the higher end of the sim racing spectrum. I'm interested to see what he says about the G29 after he opens it up.
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I guess he is broadening his public. He knows that the stuff he reviewed before is out of reach of many people and genuinely like to help and inform people about his own hobby. Nobody denies his experties and i guess doing these reviews answer loads of requests made on his channel.
 
Georgeagea
Yeah as super_gt said, no general way to do that on console. You need to do it on game by game basis relying on the Devs generosity for including such option.
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For the console you will require a computer, get the Logitech software download from their site Which will allow you to calibrate steering wheel rotation and the sensitivity of the pedals. They have software for both Windows OS and Mac OS. You can even adjust the centering spring force. The brake sensitivity is important when switching between the G27 and G29 pedal set.
 
DarrellC
For the console you will require a computer, get the Logitech software download from their site Which will allow you to calibrate steering wheel rotation and the sensitivity of the pedals. They have software for both Windows OS and Mac OS. You can even adjust the centering spring force. The brake sensitivity is important when switching between the G27 and G29 pedal set.
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But those will only work on a PC. It’s basically changing the way the PC interacts with the wheel and not the way the wheels behaves inherently. Once you plug that wheel into the console it’ll be as default/stock settings. None of the settings you changed on PC will be transferred to the wheel itself. The wheel doesn’t have any storage or smart chip inside if i can put it that way.
 
Thanks, Georgeagea. I guess I can stop thinking I'm really doing something that in turn does nothing. I guy who sold me the setup recommended that I decrease the radius to 720 from the default 900. You can believe everything someone offers up as gospel. I just would like to see the lap times drop, so like they say there is no replacement for practice and lots of it.
 
I was HIGHLY impressed and surprised of Simracing Garage review shown a couple of posts above.
I was really happy too about his feedback (see what i did there) on the force feedback!
I always was under the impression (by the internet, hype and fanboys) that the T300 is WAY better than the G29. Yet he simply said it's debatable and that in some cases it's the opposite way around.
I was keeping an eye for an upgrade to the T300 but it seems it's not worth (especially when reliability issues of the T300 are taken into account).
I would really like to get a Fanatec CSL elite PS4 wheel but it's not available for me, and it costs a fortune.
 
Georgeagea
Did anyone try this: https://www.3drap.it/product/mod-cambio-v3-h-shifter-logitech-g25-g27-g29-g920-improved-feel/
BTW some awesome mods on this site for our beloved Logitech wheels:
https://www.3drap.it/simracing-mod/
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That shifter mod looks interesting, I might consider that.
I have an adapter on the way to swap out the factory Logitech steering wheel, it should be a big improvement. The next thing would be to address the brake pedal, maybe the Nixim or GTEye spring(s) but I've yet to try either in person.
 
cdubbbs
That shifter mod looks interesting, I might consider that.
I have an adapter on the way to swap out the factory Logitech steering wheel, it should be a big improvement. The next thing would be to address the brake pedal, maybe the Nixim or GTEye spring(s) but I've yet to try either in person.
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I have the GTEYE and it’s definitely an upgrade. Maybe not a huge upgrade but still a perceivable one!
 
Georgeagea
Is it full disconnection or just like a split second where it presses some buttons, like menu and share and some buttons and sometimes throw you to main screen!?!

If it’s the latter, i had that and dismantled my wheel twice trying to find the issue, until i figured it in thr 3rd time.
Follow this guide, it’s really not that hard if you have the tools and go step by step with the guy:

Fo me it was, the white connector inside the wheel. The cables were a bit loose in it and were moving under heavy movement/ffb shake. I glued it tight with a glue gun and the issue disappeared completely since months ago.
That white connector is the one you see at around 6:33 in this video.
Good luck and keep us posted. I’m ready for any further help.
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I had a similar experience: wheel would spontaneously disconnect when driving with a message on PS4 'Controller disconnected'. Sometimes the game could be restarted, sometimes the buttons worked but not the wheel - a whole range of variable symptoms.

Both USB ports were tried, I reinstalled the PS4 system software, and game software. None of these worked.

Then I read on a forum that someone had dismantled his wheel and found a loose connection, so I took mine apart with the help of an excellent YouTube and found that the multi-wire connector which connects the buttons on the steering wheel to the main circuit board in the body of the controller was loose. I pushed it firmly in place and it fixed the problem.

The troublesome connector is at the wheel end of a wire that comes through from the main circuit board up through the steering 'column' and terminates on the wheel circuit board. It is surely a weak point in the design: this thin wire spends it life twisting with the steering wheel - it's not surprising that the connector worked loose.
 
Got one a few weeks ago (G29) on Amazon Prime days. After three days of use I got a pretty ugly squeal turning to the left, so I ordered a replacement from Amazon.

Once the second arrived, it did exactly the same, straght out of the box. As far I read in the web, it is a pretty common issue.

I ordered an refund and send it back.

Just wondering, that my G27 is 7 years old and without an issue at all, despite several gaming hours. Maybe I just had bad luck with both G29, who knows.
 
Cherokee
Just wondering, that my G27 is 7 years old and without an issue at all, despite several gaming hours. Maybe I just had bad luck with both G29, who knows.
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You could always use your G27 on PS4/XB1 with the Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter (link in my sig). Would be cheaper than a new wheel that's for sure.
 
VBR
You could always use your G27 on PS4/XB1 with the Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter (link in my sig). Would be cheaper than a new wheel that's for sure.
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That's true. But it was a good sale and my idea was to initially replace my 27 with something newer.
Lets see, if Amazon sends me an value voucher I maybe will buy something different.
 
Cherokee
Got one a few weeks ago (G29) on Amazon Prime days. After three days of use I got a pretty ugly squeal turning to the left, so I ordered a replacement from Amazon.
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Mine started out like that but then it stopped. Probably due to being new.
 
Could you please advise if the G27 pedals are compatible with the G29? I am hoping I do not have to remount the pedals on my rig.
 
FBR_Steve
Could you please advise if the G27 pedals are compatible with the G29? I am hoping I do not have to remount the pedals on my rig.
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Sort of. They will work but there will be a large deadzone at the bottom of the brake travel, since the G29 has a fixed calibration that takes the rubber bung into account. Ways to work around that here.
 
Does anyone know the correct screw size for hardmounting one of these. Just trying to avoid trailing round hardware aisle with a wheel trying different bolts lol
 

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