Logitech G923 rattle fix

[hawkeyez]

Hey everyone thought I’d post a fix I did on my wheel which rattled a lot.

All you have to do is grease up some O Rings and roll them over the helical gears on the motors.

****The green arrow shows O Ring. Red arrow shows the movement I had found. That O Ring took up almost all the slack, it still moved a tiny bit after so I don’t think it is going to be hard on the motors at all. I also used silicone die electric grease and greased up all the gears while I was in there.

___________________

Raced all day today on GT7 and didn’t make a noise once. Even when I got rammed and flew off the track. My game settings are Controller Vibration 25 (Trueforce), Max Torque 3 and Sensitivity 7.

It has been bugging the crap out of me for many months and I’m so glad I finally disassembled it to figure out what the problem was. The wheel has less play in it as well. Feels like a brand new wheel, better than the day I got it.

Funny thing is it rattled so bad I contacted Logitech and they had me jump through their Logitech support hoops they make you do (have to take videos and pictures etc) they confirmed it was hooched and sent me a replacement wheel. The replacement wheel is still in my front closet unopened haha. I used this rattling wheel because of the way my rig is, I was lazy and didn’t want to fish the wires back out. Anyway, it’s a super easy fix. Make sure you use silicone grease.

 

[paulinhoT1971]

That's a great bit of advice, well done.

 

[oqvist]

Wow why hasnt Logitech figured this out. The Logitech wheels rattle by design

 

[hawkeyez]

That's a great bit of advice, well done.

I just watched your video. My screws weren’t loose on the mounting plate for the motors but I had slightly play in the wheel itself. The o rings behind the helix gears took up that play or most of it. I didn’t want to jam it up so I put the o rings in and held the plastic hub against the metal plate and turned the wheel and it didn’t feel like it was binding at all. I may even pull it apart later and put small o rings in front of the helix gears to take up the rest of the minimal play. It’s like 1/16th if that. I am worried it might put extra stress on the motors but I do have a spare wheel so….. hahaha

 

[paulinhoT1971]

Cheers, and hopefully you've fixed it.

 

[oqvist]

Still it rattles occasionally or are you totally fixing it. Is the ffb also affected?

 

[paulinhoT1971]

Movement wise my G29 is fine, are you sure it's not clipping ?

 

[oqvist]

Movement wise my G29 is fine, are you sure it's not clipping ?

Of course its clipping the ffb is so weak so its really hard to avoid But if the noise is gone even when you go on the gravel or during heavy ffb moments I am mightely impressed

 

[hawkeyez]

Of course its clipping the ffb is so weak so its really hard to avoid But if the noise is gone even when you go on the gravel or during heavy ffb moments I am mightely impressed

Movement wise my G29 is fine, are you sure it's not clipping ?

I don’t know what clipping is, but I can usually feel/save a slide. On road coarse with my headset on, I can’t say I can hear any rattling nor can the people I race with. On a dirt track, I can hear it trying to knock away at those bearing housings but it’s definitely muted, which is ok I rarely race the dirt tracks. People I race with couldn’t hear it on a dirt track.

The people I race with have been racing a long time, way back to GT Legends and we’re fairly hardcore into it. I raced GT Legends too but it was more of a race every couple weeks out of boredom.

They have T300‘s and all I can say is I can keep up with them most of the time, and occasionally beat them. The odd race where they know the track very well I struggle. But neither of us have driven Road Atlanta for a long time and we are all very even on that track. I struggle with Monza against them for some reason. Haha

i guess in a nutshell, the rattling was so bad I was this close to throwing it thru my front window. So I’m a happy camper and I don’t think I’ve noticed any difference in FFB. And Ive gotten faster because before I was subconsciously trying to drive in such a way to reduce the rattling. Once fixed I was very very competitive with them.

Of course its clipping the ffb is so weak so its really hard to avoid But if the noise is gone even when you go on the gravel or during heavy ffb moments I am mightely impressed

Helical gears tend to ”float” by nature, the weird part is I didn’t see any clips, thrust washers or thrust bearings. So for some reason they’re just allowing those gears to hammer away at that bearing housing which looked like a small regular ball bearing. I’m guessing they epoxy the gears to the shaft since there’s no c clips or anything on either side. I could be wrong but I think the o-ring behind the gear is a good fix as it doesn’t take up all that float, as I said I could still move the shaft about 1/16th of an inch. In a sense I’ve installed “rubber” thrust washer/bearings.

Maybe Logitech knows more than I do and I’m missing something but they’ve had many many years to figure this out and they obviously never put any effort into it whatsoever.

All that being said, if they drop their price on the Logitech pro to $800 I’d buy it and sell my wheels, I’ve got two old Logitech momo’s as well as a G29. But I’m hesitant to buy Logitech again. Lol

 

[mixamun]

@hawkeyez Bumping an old thread - apologies. You have two pictures in the OP and both appear to have the o ring in place - the one with the markup appears to have some additional lube on it.

Is this o ring something you added which was absent? Or did you only add the lube?

I see you mention Controller Vibration (trueforce)... i thought the only settings you could adjust for the G923 in GT7 was Torque and Sensitivity. Do you have the adjust vibration for the regular PS controller seperate? Or could you take a screenshot of what you are talking about? What does the vibration feature do with the wheel?


Also - i just recently picked up a new G923 on sale and i found some odd behavior that lead me here. When i am in the menu for GT7 and i gently rest my hand on the wheel so i can use the dpad / x/o/square/triangle buttons the wheel will shudder/vibrate - mostly when i rest my hand on the right side of the wheel.

This seems pretty bizzare and im not sure if there is a problem with the wheel, if i need to try lubing it as indicated in this thread of if i should contact Logitech.

In a race the wheel seems fine. I get a bit of that buzzing / shuddering sound if i go off track in certain situations but it doesnt seem to happen like it does in the menu screens.

 

[mixamun]

I did find this on reddit which seems to be some kind of agent who works for logitech.



Quote(edited for formatting) so you dont have to click through: (post edit... apparently this board has reddit integration.. not sure the best way to post this...)


Posted by
u/Valentayno
11 months ago
Whenever I drive any car on GT7 my wheel constantly vibrates. It hasn’t been like this any time before but I got on to play and it’s been like this for a week. Inside any car it’s just constant vibration, not a setting issue as I haven’t touched any setting in ages on any game. Could my wheel be broken? I don’t think so since it works fine on every other game. It is especially annoying cause it removes all feeling from the track surface




level 1
Valentayno
Op · 11 mo. ago

I fixed it last night with the weirdest thing ever Had to turn off vibration on my controllers??? Reminds me of ignition 21 where to play with some wheels you had to make a save file on rFactor to be able to connect them, a solution that isn’t remotely connected to the problem yet still fixes it

1






level 2
LOGIRich
· 11 mo. ago

Yes, GT7 uses the vibration function to deal with the DualSense, but it also uses it for the audio/physics side of Trueforce. Ideally you don’t want to turn that off completely because you’re missing out on some good info from the car/track, but you certainly don’t want to run it too high either.

 

[hawkeyez]

@hawkeyez Bumping an old thread - apologies. You have two pictures in the OP and both appear to have the o ring in place - the one with the markup appears to have some additional lube on it.

Is this o ring something you added which was absent? Or did you only add the lube?

I see you mention Controller Vibration (trueforce)... i thought the only settings you could adjust for the G923 in GT7 was Torque and Sensitivity. Do you have the adjust vibration for the regular PS controller seperate? Or could you take a screenshot of what you are talking about? What does the vibration feature do with the wheel?


Also - i just recently picked up a new G923 on sale and i found some odd behavior that lead me here. When i am in the menu for GT7 and i gently rest my hand on the wheel so i can use the dpad / x/o/square/triangle buttons the wheel will shudder/vibrate - mostly when i rest my hand on the right side of the wheel.

This seems pretty bizzare and im not sure if there is a problem with the wheel, if i need to try lubing it as indicated in this thread of if i should contact Logitech.

In a race the wheel seems fine. I get a bit of that buzzing / shuddering sound if i go off track in certain situations but it doesnt seem to happen like it does in the menu screens.

Both pictures have the added o ring, used a mark up incase somebody didn’t see it. Has to roll over the gear. Small enough to fit behind but big enough to stretch over the gear. Silicone grease.


FFB torque 2-3
FFB Sensitivity 5-7
Trueforce which is linked to controller vibration is off. I didn’t like it. It’s neat a first but it kind of uses up headroom I think for feedback during a race. Could just be me though.

What happens is the gears smack the housing. The o rings act as little bumpers. Although I just fixed an old G29, doesn’t rattle often but still does. A friends been using it, he said it rattled once in an hour of driving.

 

[Skeletor_13]

Both pictures have the added o ring, used a mark up incase somebody didn’t see it. Has to roll over the gear. Small enough to fit behind but big enough to stretch over the gear. Silicone grease.


FFB torque 2-3
FFB Sensitivity 5-7
Trueforce which is linked to controller vibration is off. I didn’t like it. It’s neat a first but it kind of uses up headroom I think for feedback during a race. Could just be me though.

What happens is the gears smack the housing. The o rings act as little bumpers. Although I just fixed an old G29, doesn’t rattle often but still does. A friends been using it, he said it rattled once in an hour of driving.

Hey everyone thought I’d post a fix I did on my wheel which rattled a lot.

All you have to do is grease up some O Rings and roll them over the helical gears on the motors.

****The green arrow shows O Ring. Red arrow shows the movement I had found. That O Ring took up almost all the slack, it still moved a tiny bit after so I don’t think it is going to be hard on the motors at all. I also used silicone die electric grease and greased up all the gears while I was in there.

___________________

Raced all day today on GT7 and didn’t make a noise once. Even when I got rammed and flew off the track. My game settings are Controller Vibration 25 (Trueforce), Max Torque 3 and Sensitivity 7.

It has been bugging the crap out of me for many months and I’m so glad I finally disassembled it to figure out what the problem was. The wheel has less play in it as well. Feels like a brand new wheel, better than the day I got it.

Funny thing is it rattled so bad I contacted Logitech and they had me jump through their Logitech support hoops they make you do (have to take videos and pictures etc) they confirmed it was hooched and sent me a replacement wheel. The replacement wheel is still in my front closet unopened haha. I used this rattling wheel because of the way my rig is, I was lazy and didn’t want to fish the wires back out. Anyway, it’s a super easy fix. Make sure you use silicone grease.

Hi there,

Could you tell me the size and gauge of the o-rings used here, please.

Want to know if I have them or need to go grab some.

Thanks.

 

[hawkeyez]

Hi there,

Could you tell me the size and gauge of the o-rings used here, please.

Want to know if I have them or need to go grab some.

Thanks.

It was a kit from princess auto, second smallest o ring. Around here the kit sells for like $10 on sale

3.8 x 7.6 mm

That’s what the website says is the second smallest o ring in the kit I took them from.

I tried the smallest one but it wouldn’t roll over the gear. The next side up as you can see sort of sits a little outside of the gear teeth. But thats fine as you’re just using it as a rubber bumper.

It is not going to quieten it 100% but I raced with my headset on and I don’t even turn it up all that loud. Only on the worst of worst crashes or spinning of the track did I get rattling. Good luck, itll be better than before anyway. Took me about an hour to disassemble and reassemble.

make sure you get that steering rack in the right position before buttoning it up. I think I just turned it all the way one way then the other and made sure everything was centred and I didn’t jump a tooth. And be careful unplugging the connector that goes to the wheel rim.

 

[Skeletor_13]

I tried the smallest one but it wouldn’t roll over the gear. The next side up as you can see sort of sits a little outside of the gear teeth. But thats fine as you’re just using it as a rubber bumper.

It is not going to quieten it 100% but I raced with my headset on and I don’t even turn it up all that loud. Only on the worst of worst crashes or spinning of the track did I get rattling. Good luck, itll be better than before anyway. Took me about an hour to disassemble and reassemble.

make sure you get that steering rack in the right position before buttoning it up. I think I just turned it all the way one way then the other and made sure everything was centred and I didn’t jump a tooth. And be careful unplugging the connector that goes to the wheel rim.

Thanks for the info.
I'll head to the hardware store when it opens after Xmas.

Appreciate it.
Anything is worth trying.

 

[hawkeyez]

Thanks for the info.
I'll head to the hardware store when it opens after Xmas.

Appreciate it.
Anything is worth trying.

Mine went from “geeez friggin wheel it’s brand new wtf is going on I’m scared to take corners” to racing with my friends “can you guys hear anything?” “Nope”. They could hear it before. After the fix, sometimes I could feel it in the wheel but they still couldn’t hear it.

 

[AEKara38]

Thanks for the info.
I'll head to the hardware store when it opens after Xmas.

No rush then...

 

[lazism]

Hey everyone thought I’d post a fix I did on my wheel which rattled a lot.

All you have to do is grease up some O Rings and roll them over the helical gears on the motors.

This seems to be the only solution in the entire world wide web that actually may explain the rattling noise on brand new G923s. People post videos of greasing up the plastic bars and gears, but they don't seem to realize that it's not plastic grinding noise that's affecting new G923, it's more of a dull metal rattling sound (at least for me).

I just came back from Home Depot with a bunch of O rings and silicone grease. I am going to try this tonight, but I can't seem to find any information on how to take apart the actual gear housing that connects to the motors. All of the videos I see on YouTube stop after pulling off the outer casing, never all the way to the motors.

How many more screws are necessary to get all the way to the helical gears on the motors themselves? Does it require the entire thing (including the controller board, etc.) to be taken apart, or just a couple of more screws after the outer casing?

 

[hawkeyez]

Oh geez I’ll try to remember.

1- take screws out of cover and the back of the wheel (can’t remember which order is best)
2- remove Allen head screws/bolts on centre of wheel and then remove the three screws out the main hub behind the centre wheel cover
3- this is where it gets foggy for me, remove screws on main housing and screws on the board that runs above it all?
4- there’s that big black plastic housing cover, if you look closely through a hole you’ll see the big gear in there

that’s all I can remember, what I always do is take pictures as I’m tearing things apart, the pictures I can then use in reverse to put it all back together and use for reference. I’m mechanically inclined so it’s pretty easy for me but I still take pictures incase I have to step away from it for a couple days or something.

I circled in yellow for sure those screws come out, I can’t remember what else is there. You have to be careful when slipping the bracket and board out of place. I think I gently removed some connectors.

I’m sorry I can’t remember the exact details. I think maybe behind that board is the third screw per gear motor. I do remember that board I was careful with and gently lifted to slip something out of the way. If your not sure, look around a lot and just analyze what’s maybe holding things back.

I hope it goes well for you. I think you’ll be glad you took the time, remember to still run the wheel fairly light, I fixed a G29 for a friend and did this mod, it was quiet for him but a couple times I heard it rattling when he crashed or spun out, turned out he had it cranked up to 8 torque and 6-8 sensitivity, I think that’s way too high for the G29/G923.


Anyway I believe the key to getting to those Helix gears is the three screws and they’re under/behind that board the runs between them.

I really wish Logitech had made the top cover come off without having to take the wheel off. The T300 is a few screws and you’re in because the top cover is split. I remember cursing that because one time I forgot to put the cover on before the wheel! Hahaha

 

[Wicksy80]

I have just stripped mine to try and fix this but completely missed the o ring part so need to order them and try again. Severe grinding noise when turning right so hopefully this will fix this. To get to helix gears follow online videos then undo the extra 4 black bolts underneath plastic housing then the two silver ones circled above at front. Unplug any wires that need unplugging and lift off. You then need to undo the 6/8 (can’t remember) silver screws which attaches metal plate to plastic front circled at top right/left above. The two black screws circled don’t need touching.

 

[hawkeyez]

I have just stripped mine to try and fix this but completely missed the o ring part so need to order them and try again. Severe grinding noise when turning right so hopefully this will fix this. To get to helix gears follow online videos then undo the extra 4 black bolts underneath plastic housing then the two silver ones circled above at front. Unplug any wires that need unplugging and lift off. You then need to undo the 6/8 (can’t remember) silver screws which attaches metal plate to plastic front circled at top right/left above. The two black screws circled don’t need touching.

Thanks, I couldn’t remember but I think I undid the black screws and carefully snuck the board or that plate out of there. Might not have been the ideal way but I do remember lifting something up there and doing something. Lol More than one way to skin a cat I guess haha

 

[Wicksy80]

Just want to say thank you very much @hawkeyez for the OG post. Just put some o rings in as per above and grinding has pretty much gone. Still a slight one in GT Sport but nowhere near what it was. Also non existent in F1 2022 now. I can finally use the wheel without annoying the missus downstairs. Just gotta practice now and get good at racing! FYI I bought the wheel used from CEX (UK) so this was perfect fix.

 

[hawkeyez]

Just want to say thank you very much @hawkeyez for the OG post. Just put some o rings in as per above and grinding has pretty much gone. Still a slight one in GT Sport but nowhere near what it was. Also non existent in F1 2022 now. I can finally use the wheel without annoying the missus downstairs. Just gotta practice now and get good at racing! FYI I bought the wheel used from CEX (UK) so this was perfect fix.

No problem I’m glad it helped your wheel, I get worried offering advice like that incase somebody messes it up or it simply doesn’t work for them.

I noticed mine for the most part went away except for extreme cases like really ripping on a rally course and even then it was very muted sounding compared to before it would sound like the wheel was broken.

I did lower my FFB torque and sensitivity settings after doing the fix. Looking back I think I initially cranked it up too high. I don’t think the wheel can handle 8 torque or somewhere around that. It was quiet when I first got it but quickly turned into annoy rattle grind sound.

 

[Gurnard]

Made an account just to thank @hawkeyez for this!

A couple hours work, but I do love having a good tinker. Works a treat! I was actually able to turn my Trueforce settings up a bit after this, with much less noise overall.

I can actually play ACC now! That had been the worst with this wheel. My setup is in the loungeroom, and my partner doesn't mind a bit of noise while she's reading or watching tv, but the rattle on a kerb in ACC even at low speed would make both of us wince, I had to turn FFB down to basically nothing and had no feel. With this tweak, it's down to the kind of low rumble you'd expect of a gear-driven wheel, were it not plagued by this design flaw.

 

[hawkeyez]

Made an account just to thank @hawkeyez for this!

A couple hours work, but I do love having a good tinker. Works a treat! I was actually able to turn my Trueforce settings up a bit after this, with much less noise overall.

I can actually play ACC now! That had been the worst with this wheel. My setup is in the loungeroom, and my partner doesn't mind a bit of noise while she's reading or watching tv, but the rattle on a kerb in ACC even at low speed would make both of us wince, I had to turn FFB down to basically nothing and had no feel. With this tweak, it's down to the kind of low rumble you'd expect of a gear-driven wheel, were it not plagued by this design flaw.

Glad to hear. Best part is, if the o rings ever wear out, replace them. Haha. I actually think Logitech should address the rattle issue or significantly drop the price of the wheel. $20 says they could built it so it didn’t do that, they’d just have to make a little less off each wheel. I should work for them haha

 

[Gurnard]

Haha with the o-ring kit and tin of silicon grease I bought for this, I could fix it about 500 times.

You are quite right, the mind boggles that these things leave the factory with an issue that's so trivial to rectify (prior to assembly).

 

[hawkeyez]

Haha with the o-ring kit and tin of silicon grease I bought for this, I could fix it about 500 times.

You are quite right, the mind boggles that these things leave the factory with an issue that's so trivial to rectify (prior to assembly).

Yep, at least those kits come in handy for other things and same with the grease.