LSD- How to set it properly?

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Exactly, this thread started out very helpful and has turned confusing for people trying to figure out how to set this in the game.

How do you think the people that consider themselves tuners feel... I think if all you learned from this thread was that nothing in consistent in this game and truly representative of how its real world counterpart functions... then walk away happy.
 
Some things I'm not so sure of. What does an initial torque value of 5 indicate? Is that a 5% difference in axle force? 5 newton-meters? Is it an arbitrary value? If I had to guess I'd say it's a percentage. Also, are the acceleration and deceleration values added on top of the initial torque or are they totally independent? For instance, if you have an initial value of 10 and an acceleration value of 20, does that add up to a total lock of 30 when you hit the throttle? Or is the total acceleration lock 20 regardless of what the initial value is? Personally I think it's the latter, but I can't prove that.

There are certain stock differentials in this game with more extreme values, I believe it may have been an RX-7 model, which the stock differential had values of 50/80/0 which is kind of vague in of itself. If you applied the first theory you mention to it then accel lock would be 130 and brake 50, if you applied the latter then accel would be 80 but brake 0; but brake 0 shouldn't be possible if the rings can't be unpacked to truly represent 0 influence, so initial 50 must override it?
 
From what I can grasp, it seems your theory is that the LSD is by default totally open until enough difference in axle speed occurs to causes it to lock.

From memory, I'm forced to agree with his theory. When using the stickiest tires I can, therefor the slowest to heat/cool, and performing a straight line burn out, I feel the rear tires do not heat up or cool at the same rate. (best tested with a car that just barely has enough power, to overcome grip from a stand still) It may be placebo, lag, or I can simply be wrong, but it appears to me, that the LSD is 'unlocked' when at a 'stop' and won't lock until enough torque is applied to activate the LSD. Resulting in (for my example) the right rear tire heating up slightly faster, and cooling down slightly slower, than the left rear. I'd have to test this far more, to justify it as 'proof' to myself alone, yet alone opposing thoughts.
 
Your initial torque theory is wrong, IMO.

We agree to disagree then :)

To each his own, I just know what works for me and produces very fast lap times. It may not be true in reailty but thats what works in the game. I have spent countless hours tuning on it and I am just passing my information along.
 
OppositeLock's LSD Theory: PD looked at how a real LSD works and implemented a model that, while somewhat flawed, more or less conforms to reality.

BlueShift's LSD Theory: PD looked at how a real LSD worked, threw the whole concept into the trash, and then created a model out of thin air which works totally opposite of reality for absolutely no reason whatsoever.

Please, may you give me an example I can reproduce where what you tell is true so I can understand your point of vue ?

Still waiting for your car :)

Btw, you can think whatever you want, my info is taken from the official PD's GT4 guide. By this guide I say points of lock are % of difference of slip allowance between the outside and inside tires (47.5%/52.5% for initial @5, 35%/65% @ 30, 20%/80% @60) : if the initial of a LSD is the same in GT4 and GT5, I tell an exact thing.

As you said though, I must be wrong on the open/lock words, but I need more study on this and will come back later on these terms.
 
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I posted what I believe to be some pretty good info in another thread in general.
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I break the LSD down to 3 positions on track then tune from there.

1 (Inital)) Car spins coming out of corner on acceleration
2 (Accel)) Car spins after corner has been exited and is under hard acceleration
3 (Decel)) Car spins when lifting off gas or braking before corner

Whether or not you agree with this guy on how the LSD works, I actually did find this method of setting it beneficial on probably the most extreme example of a car I could pick; playing around with that Corvette C2 Race Car '63 I bumped the settings up to 30/60/30 until it became slightly less tail happy then it was before; it's still a formula drifter if you oversteer it and floor the gas pedal, but it's far more drivable with proper throttling now.
 
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I break the LSD down to 3 positions on track then tune from there.

1 (Inital)) Car spins coming out of corner on acceleration
2 (Accel)) Car spins after corner has been exited and is under hard acceleration
3 (Decel)) Car spins when lifting off gas or braking before corner

👍 this is correct
 
Whether or not you agree with this guy on how the LSD works, I actually did find this method of setting it beneficial on probably the most extreme example of a car I could pick; playing around with that Corvette C2 Race Car '63 I bumped the settings up to 30/60/30 until it became slightly less tail happy then it was before; it's still a formula drifter if you oversteer it and floor the gas pedal, but it's far more drivable with proper throttling now.

👍 this is correct


Thanks guys I have spent a lot of hours tuning with different stuff and that was the best method I can explain it in. Glad you found it helpful!!
 
KforceOH, I'm fine with disagreeing, but in the one post you encouraged people to try initial at 5 and initial at 60. For most MR cars, I have a basic LSD setup of 7/55/35 that works great for me and keeps the car balanced. I have tried this same setup with 60/55/35, and the car will oversteer more, especially out of corners. In other words, I have tried what you've suggested, and I find that it works the other way when it comes to initial. That's all I'm saying, and I just encourage people to test this for themselves as well.
 
KforceOH, I'm fine with disagreeing, but in the one post you encouraged people to try initial at 5 and initial at 60. For most MR cars, I have a basic LSD setup of 7/55/35 that works great for me and keeps the car balanced. I have tried this same setup with 60/55/35, and the car will oversteer more, especially out of corners. In other words, I have tried what you've suggested, and I find that it works the other way when it comes to initial. That's all I'm saying, and I just encourage people to test this for themselves as well.

That I do agree with lol 👍. Yea I just basically said put it on 5 and run then put it on 60 and run and you can see the differences, 5 will spin, 60 will push. Basically the guy was asking what the differnce was between locked/unlocked related to grip and push. I should have copied his posted questions and inserted them to I take blame on that one. I am all about the testing and I am always open to learning to go faster trust me on that on! Thats what we all here for right :)

I have found a lot of people seem to tune the inital and decel completely opposite from me also, for instance you said 7/55/35, which would not work for me, but 35/55/7 probably would. I find that very interresting. I hardly ever run decel value over 10, and almost never run an inital value under 13.
 
15, 10, 5 seems to be the best starting position for me on FR cars. From here I fine tune, but I still have more testing to do on the effects of initial. I'm focusing all of my 'tests' online only.
 
I kindly ask all of you who have not already posted on my thread to post on my thread Initial Torque: What do you do? There are so many thoughts and ideas on what it does and I'm trying to get all these thoughts in one place, so we can compare them all to one another. I would like you to post as your a well respected tuner and probably have a well defined idea of what Initial Torque. You can find a link in my signature, it's the second one down. Right now we seem to have a good working theory but I would like every to share their ideas, even if they go against what has been said.
 
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