- 10,081
- WFG9
Just curious, thought I'd ask you. Is understeer exaggerated in GT3 or am I imagining things?
///M-Spec's Guide to GT3 Suspension Tuning - Discussion
- Thread starter Duke
- 38 comments
- 7,331 views
///M-Spec
Staff Emeritus
- 4,928
Ahh, no, I did NOT understand your question. I was too busy thinking of correlation to real life.
I don't know if re-tuning will help these people's lap times. I suspect that the top GT3 players in the world already have an excellent grasp of suspension mechanics. If they don't, I'd be surprised.
My guide is really aimed at the begineer or casual player who wants to learn about suspension tuning but doesn't want to pick up an SAE Vehicle Dynamics text book.
I DO feel that following these guidelines will help your average person go a little faster, provided they have the skills to leverage the car's newfound ability.
///M-Spec
- 10,081
- WFG9
I don't know, I can sometimes have to struggle just turning at 35-45 mph in tight corners.
- 5,842
- Forgotten Wing
I just read through that whole article; very well done. makes the science of tuning easier to do; I just can't wait for the last part to be posted. Right now I'm struggling with a high-power FF Real-brid that I made (Z-Concept with a 600bph starting engine). Rather difficult to tune...
- 170
thank you for the article 
it was very interesting and I think i will enjoy gt3 more .
it was very interesting and I think i will enjoy gt3 more .- 119
i love the article and im KINDA geting along with it, my RUF RGT understeers... it slowly slides out to the outside, well im 13 and i love racing gt3 but in spring rate part, lef or right softens the shocks, and if softer i have to adjust the.......?
- 24,344
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
In my experience, left (lower numbers) softens the dampers. I say "in my experience" because some other people see it the other way. To me, moving the slider to the left means the dampers are not resisting movement as much, allowing the car to bobble more.
If you're starting from the stock spring rates, you can soften the dampers a little without worrying about it. Over-damped cars are not as bad as under-damped. What you don't want are very stiff springs with weak dampers.
[edit] Latin Drifter, here's my setup for the RGT with race suspension:
Springs: 8.0/14.0
Ride height: 72/76
Bound: 4/7
Rebound: 8/10
The RGT likes to be very stiffly sprung in back to carry the engine's weight. If it is too soft in the back it will not rotate well, particularly under throttle. This setup is pretty crisp and makes the car responsive to throttle adjustments during long turns.
Softening the damper bound allows you to transfer weight quickly, because the dampers are not resisting it as much. However, a stiffer REbound number gets the weight distribution back to normal more quickly. So with this setup, the RGT gets set into a long turn quickly. Then if the car is turning too close in, adding a little gas will transfer weight to the back and allow the front to slip outside a little. If the car is understeering toward the outside, lifting throttle will move weight to the nose and tuck it in tighter.
Camber: 3.6/1.0
Toe: +0.5/-1.0
More camber allows the tires to sit flatter on the road when cornering, which increqases the grip. In this case I added a lot of camber to the front to help the nose really hold on during turns.
+ toe means toe IN, where the front edges of the wheels are pointed towards the middle of the car a little. - means toe OUT, where the front edges are pointed away from each other, towards the outside of the car. In this case, the front toe in helps the front wheels take a tighter line, while the rear toe out helps swing the back of the car to the outside.
Stabilizers: 2/5
The stabilizers, or swaybars, help limit body roll and help equalize the amount of suspension travel that happens from side to side. If stabilizers are too soft the car leans too much and overloads the outside tires and hurts the suspension action. If the stabilizers are too stiff, the suspension can't conform to the road surface as well and traction is hurt as well.
Adjusting the swaybars can help fine-tune the balance of grip between the front and back of the car. In this case, body roll was not a real problem so I softened the front bar to allow a little extra grip. I stiffened the rear bar to actually reduce the rear grip and allow the car to rotate more in turns.
If you're starting from the stock spring rates, you can soften the dampers a little without worrying about it. Over-damped cars are not as bad as under-damped. What you don't want are very stiff springs with weak dampers.
[edit] Latin Drifter, here's my setup for the RGT with race suspension:
Springs: 8.0/14.0
Ride height: 72/76
Bound: 4/7
Rebound: 8/10
The RGT likes to be very stiffly sprung in back to carry the engine's weight. If it is too soft in the back it will not rotate well, particularly under throttle. This setup is pretty crisp and makes the car responsive to throttle adjustments during long turns.
Softening the damper bound allows you to transfer weight quickly, because the dampers are not resisting it as much. However, a stiffer REbound number gets the weight distribution back to normal more quickly. So with this setup, the RGT gets set into a long turn quickly. Then if the car is turning too close in, adding a little gas will transfer weight to the back and allow the front to slip outside a little. If the car is understeering toward the outside, lifting throttle will move weight to the nose and tuck it in tighter.
Camber: 3.6/1.0
Toe: +0.5/-1.0
More camber allows the tires to sit flatter on the road when cornering, which increqases the grip. In this case I added a lot of camber to the front to help the nose really hold on during turns.
+ toe means toe IN, where the front edges of the wheels are pointed towards the middle of the car a little. - means toe OUT, where the front edges are pointed away from each other, towards the outside of the car. In this case, the front toe in helps the front wheels take a tighter line, while the rear toe out helps swing the back of the car to the outside.
Stabilizers: 2/5
The stabilizers, or swaybars, help limit body roll and help equalize the amount of suspension travel that happens from side to side. If stabilizers are too soft the car leans too much and overloads the outside tires and hurts the suspension action. If the stabilizers are too stiff, the suspension can't conform to the road surface as well and traction is hurt as well.
Adjusting the swaybars can help fine-tune the balance of grip between the front and back of the car. In this case, body roll was not a real problem so I softened the front bar to allow a little extra grip. I stiffened the rear bar to actually reduce the rear grip and allow the car to rotate more in turns.
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