manuel gearn, need help

[sagaper]

i are traing to drive manuel, and i need help, and tips.

i use x to accelerate
r2: brake
r1: shift up
l2 : shift down

 

[Jmac279]

i are traing to drive manuel, and i need help, and tips.

i use x to accelerate
r2: brake
r1: shift up
l2 : shift down

That's an extremely weird setup ...

I use X for gas
Square for brake
Circle for e-brake
L2 to shift down
R2 to shift up

 

[Parnelli Bone]

i are traing to drive manuel, and i need help, and tips.

i use x to accelerate
r2: brake
r1: shift up
l2 : shift down

I agree, that's a weird setup, but hey...if it works for you then use it.

I'm kind of at a loss here. What are you having trouble with? What kind of car are you using? Anyways, here are some basics. Push R1 to shift up, and L2 to shift down. Ha ha, just making a joke.

I think the most important thing to know about manual transmissions is WHEN to shift. Every car's engine has a different power curve, and each engine will get its best performance if you know when to shift gears. Have you ever tuned your engine? Now look at the graph with the 2 squiggly lines on it when you tune your engine. See the blue line? That's your torque curve. It's always going to peak at a lower rpm than your horsepower (HP) curve, which is represented by the orange line.

Basically, you don't want to shift gears too early ...otherwise your engine will be revving BELOW it's peak torque and you'll lose speed. Some cars with automatic transmissions do this: they'll shift up too early but when you get into a curve sometimes they won't shift back down, and your car will struggle for speed. All of this depends on the car, too. Some cars are a lot more sensitive and won't be able to pull below their peak torque at all, whereas others will be okay.

You also don't want to shift gears too late, because then your car's engine will be past the orange line (horsepower) and once again you'll lose speed.

Like I said, every engine is different, each one responds differently to shifting. With some engines, the peak horsepower will be located past the redline (the red area on your tachometer) and you can shift late into the redline area. Many more cars (mostly muscle cars, but again this is a generalization) have a power curve that peaks before the redline (sometimes 1,000 to 1,500 rpms before the redline! and with these motors, you'll want to shift EARLY, cuz if you don't your car will again lose speed.

Anyways, I hope this is what you were looking for. I have a feeling you're asking a question a lot more basic than I think you are!

When it comes down to it, manual transmissions simply require practice. After awhile, you won't need to stare at your tachometer much (the dial with the needle on it), instead, you'll be able to shift gears just by listening to your car's engine. In the long run, manual transmissions are better than automatics, tho autos come in handy sometimes (license tests and also times when you just wanna be lazy).

By the way...it's spelled trying.

 

[Parnelli Bone]

By the way, you might eventually want to think about changing your setup. Using the X button for gas means you flood your engine every time you press X. If you're using this with a front engine, rear-drive car, you'll get lots of wheelspin whether you use a manual or automatic transmission. Likewise, using R2 (or any button) for brakes means you're slamming your brakes full force everytime, which means you'll slide around alot more and lose control.

Instead of buttons, try using the analog sticks on your controller (assuming you're using a controller with analog, that is). You'll get a lot more control this way.

 

[liam2maps]

R1 Shift Up
R2 Shift Down
L1 Rear View
L2 Change View

The rest is all default.

 

[Jmac279]

Here's a sample I did for someone who owns a Hyundai Tiburon (real life) ...

Tiburon V6 Dyno (Source: Import Tuner)

Tiburon 5 Speed Gear Ratios

1st - 3.462
2nd - 2.053
3rd - 1.393
4th - 1.061
5th - 0.837
Final - 4.056
Tire Diameter - 24.61811024"

Thrust Force (lbs) = Torque @ Wheels (lb-ft) * Final Drive Ratio * Gear Ratio * 24 / Tire Diameter (in inches)

RPM-----Wheels-----1st-----2nd-----3rd-----4th-----5th
3000----146--------1999----1185----803-----613-----485
3500----156--------2136----1266----858-----655-----519
4000----164--------2246----1331----902-----688-----545
4500----160--------2191----1298----880-----671-----532
5000----158--------2164----1282----869-----663-----525
5500----142--------1945----1152----781-----596-----472
6000----130--------1780----1055----715-----545-----432
6100----126--------1725----1023----695-----529-----419
6200----122--------1670----990-----672-----512-----406
6300----118--------1615----958-----650-----495-----392
6400----114--------1561----925-----628-----478-----379
6500----110--------1506----893-----605-----462-----366

MPH = RPM * Diameter / (Gear Ratio * Final Drive Ratio * 336)

Top Speeds
1st - 33.916 MPH
2nd - 57.193 MPH
3rd - 84.291 MPH
4th - 110.666 MPH
5th - 140.283 MPH

RPM = MPH * Gear Ratio * Final Drive Ratio * 336 / Diameter

Optimum Shift Points
1st - 6500 RPM (33.916 MPH) [1506 lbs)
33.916 MPH in 2nd = 3855 RPM (~1350 lbs)
2nd - 6500 RPM (57.193 MPH) [893 lbs]
57.193 MPH in 3rd = 4410 RPM (~890 lbs)
3rd - 6200 RPM (80.400 MPH) (672 lbs)
80.400 MPH in 4th = 4722 RPM (~667 lbs)
4th - 6100 RPM (103.856 MPH) [529 lbs]
103.856 MPH in 5th = 4812 RPM (~528 lbs)

As you can see, this transimission isn't exactly perfect for the engine ... Ideally (from an acceleration standpoint), you'd want to shift every gear at 6100 RPM and end up at 4800 RPM in the next gear since horsepower peaks from 4800 to 6100 RPM ... 4th gear to 5th gear is the only shift that is ideal with this transmission while every other shift has wasted power (especially 1st to 2nd) ...

 

[Parnelli Bone]

Here's a sample I did for someone who owns a Hyundai Tiburon (real life) ...

Tiburon V6 Dyno (Source: Import Tuner)

Tiburon 5 Speed Gear Ratios

1st - 3.462
2nd - 2.053
3rd - 1.393
4th - 1.061
5th - 0.837
Final - 4.056
Tire Diameter - 24.61811024"

Thrust Force (lbs) = Torque @ Wheels (lb-ft) * Final Drive Ratio * Gear Ratio * 24 / Tire Diameter (in inches)

RPM-----Wheels-----1st-----2nd-----3rd-----4th-----5th
3000----146--------1999----1185----803-----613-----485
3500----156--------2136----1266----858-----655-----519
4000----164--------2246----1331----902-----688-----545
4500----160--------2191----1298----880-----671-----532
5000----158--------2164----1282----869-----663-----525
5500----142--------1945----1152----781-----596-----472
6000----130--------1780----1055----715-----545-----432
6100----126--------1725----1023----695-----529-----419
6200----122--------1670----990-----672-----512-----406
6300----118--------1615----958-----650-----495-----392
6400----114--------1561----925-----628-----478-----379
6500----110--------1506----893-----605-----462-----366

MPH = RPM * Diameter / (Gear Ratio * Final Drive Ratio * 336)

Top Speeds
1st - 33.916 MPH
2nd - 57.193 MPH
3rd - 84.291 MPH
4th - 110.666 MPH
5th - 140.283 MPH

RPM = MPH * Gear Ratio * Final Drive Ratio * 336 / Diameter

Optimum Shift Points
1st - 6500 RPM (33.916 MPH) [1506 lbs)
33.916 MPH in 2nd = 3855 RPM (~1350 lbs)
2nd - 6500 RPM (57.193 MPH) [893 lbs]
57.193 MPH in 3rd = 4410 RPM (~890 lbs)
3rd - 6200 RPM (80.400 MPH) (672 lbs)
80.400 MPH in 4th = 4722 RPM (~667 lbs)
4th - 6100 RPM (103.856 MPH) [529 lbs]
103.856 MPH in 5th = 4812 RPM (~528 lbs)

As you can see, this transimission isn't exactly perfect for the engine ... Ideally (from an acceleration standpoint), you'd want to shift every gear at 6100 RPM and end up at 4800 RPM in the next gear since horsepower peaks from 4800 to 6100 RPM ... 4th gear to 5th gear is the only shift that is ideal with this transmission while every other shift has wasted power (especially 1st to 2nd) ...

Oh my god! Craziness!

 

[sagaper]

i have playd gt2 for a long time, but with automtic gears.
so the tips i nead is, car to start with, and with track to drive?

 

[Parnelli Bone]

i have playd gt2 for a long time, but with automtic gears.
so the tips i nead is, car to start with, and with track to drive?

The car you nead to start with could be anything...as long as you're comfortable driving it. It could be a Honda Civic or a Speed 12, but since you're new to this, I suggest you try a Japanese Kei car, a MINI, a Fiat 500, Ford Ka, etc....anything that has a nice, slow engine ..just make sure you look at the power curve when you tune your engine so you'll know when to shift gears best. Take this slow machine to the Test Track on the sim disc or Super Speedway on the Arcade disc, so you can concentrate on just shifting & accelerating for awhile.

I learned manual with a Ford KA, actually, by mistake! I started a race and hit ‘manual’ instead of ‘auto’ and thought..“oh well, I'm in it now, no turning back!”

 

[liam2maps]

I learnt to drive Manual in Gran Turismo in a Civic Type R at High Speed Ring. It was on a steering wheel and the Manual was a stick not a button or paddle shift. It gets rather annoying but.

 

[Parnelli Bone]

I learnt to drive Manual in Gran Turismo in a Civic Type R at High Speed Ring. It was on a steering wheel and the Manual was a stick not a button or paddle shift. It gets rather annoying but.

What type of wheel was it? I eventually wanna try one of these out.

 

[Jmac279]

Shifting up is the easy part of manual, so you actually learn very little on Super Speedway ...

The hard part of manual is knowing what gear you should be in while cornering and proper downshifting ... I'd advise taking a larger car (3000+ lbs) that has 150-200 hp to Laguna Seca, Trial Mountain, etc. ... Basically any course that will punish poor driving technique ...

 

[TMM]

Shifting up is the easy part of manual, so you actually learn very little on Super Speedway ...

The hard part of manual is knowing what gear you should be in while cornering and proper downshifting ... I'd advise taking a larger car (3000+ lbs) that has 150-200 hp to Laguna Seca, Trial Mountain, etc. ... Basically any course that will punish poor driving technique ...

I'd agree with that, going round and round just ocasionally dropping 1 gear won't teach you much about manual shifting.

 

[liam2maps]

What type of wheel was it? I eventually wanna try one of these out.

It takes a bit of practise but I'd still prefer the controller. I mean no actual wheel will work like a real car. Well none that I have found anyway.

 

[Parnelli Bone]

Shifting up is the easy part of manual, so you actually learn very little on Super Speedway ...

The hard part of manual is knowing what gear you should be in while cornering and proper downshifting ... I'd advise taking a larger car (3000+ lbs) that has 150-200 hp to Laguna Seca, Trial Mountain, etc. ... Basically any course that will punish poor driving technique ...

Well, let's let Sagaper decide what's best. I know my suggestions are obviously very simple..I know after 2 minutes of trying them out, Sagaper will probably get bored and try something more complex, but jumping into a 3,000 pound Lexus and trying to navigate around Laguna will probly only make Sagaper frustrated. I was trying to think about his point of view: the point of view of someone who's absolutely never used manual gearing!

 

[Sharky.]

What type of wheel was it? I eventually wanna try one of these out.

Wouldn't any wheel with a stick do?

 

[liam2maps]

Note when driving manual gear ratios become more important and specific. I still use Auto though. I can drive a Manual in the game it's just that I am lazy.

 

[Jmac279]

How are the ratios more important with manual ?

If anything, they're more important with automatic since it shifts at redline, so you're more likely to drop below the power band ...

 

[liam2maps]

How are the ratios more important with manual ?

If anything, they're more important with automatic since it shifts at redline, so you're more likely to drop below the power band ...

Incorrect. Well for me anyway.

Look I suck at explaining things but it's like Gear 3 on those turns have the optimum speed or something.

EDIT: Basically you try to set gears more closely to the track. And shape the gears individually to certain parts of the track to make your driving more smooth. You can be quite speedy but it requires very select settings.

You probably won't believe me or understand but it's your loss. I am 100% certain about this.

 

[Jmac279]

I know you tune for each track, for one ...

Two, I still don't see how it doesn't apply to an automatic transmission, as well ...

Example ...

Redline = 7000 RPM
Fuel Cut-Off = 7625 RPM
3rd Gear = 1.414
4th Gear = 1.000
Torque = 200 lb-ft @ 6000 RPM to 7500 RPM, 180 lb-ft @ 5500 RPM, 165 lb-ft @ 5250 RPM, 150 lb-ft @ 5000 RPM

Automatic shifts at redline ... This gives it an immediate disadvantage with most engines as most tuned engines produce more power above redline ... Also, a lower shift point means you need to have closer ratios to stay within the powerband, otherwise the revs may drop too low ... So, say you're accelerating through a corner in 3rd and it hits redline @ 7000 RPM and drops to 4th @ 4950 RPM ... So you go from 200 lb-ft in 3rd down to 150 lb-ft in 4th ... This means you're only putting about 53% as much power to the ground as before (150/(1.414*200) = 53.041%) ... as a result, your car slows down and shifts back into 3rd gear and continues the cycle until you exit the corner ...

Same corner in 3rd with a manual transmission ... instead of shifting at redline, you have another 625 RPM until fuel cut-off, so you can get that extra several MPH to make it out of the turn before having to shift ... and, even if you have to shift, you're still like 442 RPM higher than with the automatic transmission, meaning you're making approximately 174 lb-ft @ 5393 RPM in 4th, so significantly more power (174/(1.414*200) = 61.527%) ...

This is why it's MORE important to tune your gearing properly with an automatic transmission (my point), although it's very important with both types of transmission ... In this case, you're screwed with the auto transmission and losing precious seconds ... However, with the manual, you might be alright and definitely won't lose nearly as much time or speed through the corner(s) ...

 

[liam2maps]

Meh I sort of understand you but maybe it's just my driving style or something.

 

[TMM]

I know you tune for each track, for one ...

Two, I still don't see how it doesn't apply to an automatic transmission, as well ...

Example ...

Redline = 7000 RPM
Fuel Cut-Off = 7625 RPM
3rd Gear = 1.414
4th Gear = 1.000
Torque = 200 lb-ft @ 6000 RPM to 7500 RPM, 180 lb-ft @ 5500 RPM, 165 lb-ft @ 5250 RPM, 150 lb-ft @ 5000 RPM

Automatic shifts at redline ... This gives it an immediate disadvantage with most engines as most tuned engines produce more power above redline ... Also, a lower shift point means you need to have closer ratios to stay within the powerband, otherwise the revs may drop too low ... So, say you're accelerating through a corner in 3rd and it hits redline @ 7000 RPM and drops to 4th @ 4950 RPM ... So you go from 200 lb-ft in 3rd down to 150 lb-ft in 4th ... This means you're only putting about 53% as much power to the ground as before (150/(1.414*200) = 53.041%) ... as a result, your car slows down and shifts back into 3rd gear and continues the cycle until you exit the corner ...

Same corner in 3rd with a manual transmission ... instead of shifting at redline, you have another 625 RPM until fuel cut-off, so you can get that extra several MPH to make it out of the turn before having to shift ... and, even if you have to shift, you're still like 442 RPM higher than with the automatic transmission, meaning you're making approximately 174 lb-ft @ 5393 RPM in 4th, so significantly more power (174/(1.414*200) = 61.527%) ...

This is why it's MORE important to tune your gearing properly with an automatic transmission (my point), although it's very important with both types of transmission ... In this case, you're screwed with the auto transmission and losing precious seconds ... However, with the manual, you might be alright and definitely won't lose nearly as much time or speed through the corner(s) ...

Or you blip your engine through the corner with automatic gears so that you don't hit the redline and shift up. You'll still lose time compared to the manual but not as much as shifting up and down and up again.