massive amounts of understeer :(

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XSVterror16
xsvterror16
I wanted to build a drift car with a nice V8 roar so I chose to go with the premium 07 mustang. Unfortunately, Ford didn't seem to take into consideration that things on Earth actually change direction every once in a while... I basically have to hold the e brake then get a ton of angle and mash the gas to get anything even remotely close to a drift and even then, it wants to push through. It really shows at high speed when it won't change direction at all. And when I can get it to start sliding, the front end just washes out and I end up in a 4 wheel slide towards the walls.
 
I have no clue about what you've done to the car but I'm going to start off with shaving as much weight off the car as possible for easier weight shifts. Secondly a bit of toe-in on the rear wouldn't hurt the car as well as a few degrees of camber on each wheel. It's personal preference on the springs and dampers but I normally set my rear harder than the front. Finally, set your normal brake bias towards the rear of about a 5/7-8-9.

Try experimenting with the LSD, maybe a locked diff could work in this situation? If not, try a 2 way or the default settings for a stock mechanical diff.

Hope that helps!
 
Sounds more like a technique problem to me, I can drift a stock mustang and I infact found it quite pleasant. Use the stock settings on the f/c suspension, adjust by trial and error. Be smoother with your inputs. You only want to use just enough accelerator to maintain the drift, this may mean none or minimal on your entry. Mashing anything wont help. Learn your weight transfers and only use minimal handbrake to help initially break traction. You've got to be more patient with heavier cars, they take longer to respond. Try slowing down more before you enter, heavy cars have a lot of inertia and thus require much more force to change their direction, and if you enter too fast you may not have the capacity to exert enough force on the road to alter your direction.
 
Throw as much weight at the back as possible it got 65-35 standard and after it 56-46 I think.
Thats what I did on my Mustang and it drifts like a dream now ;)
 
Sounds more like a technique problem to me, I can drift a stock mustang and I infact found it quite pleasant. Use the stock settings on the f/c suspension, adjust by trial and error. Be smoother with your inputs. You only want to use just enough accelerator to maintain the drift, this may mean none or minimal on your entry. Mashing anything wont help. Learn your weight transfers and only use minimal handbrake to help initially break traction. You've got to be more patient with heavier cars, they take longer to respond. Try slowing down more before you enter, heavy cars have a lot of inertia and thus require much more force to change their direction, and if you enter too fast you may not have the capacity to exert enough force on the road to alter your direction.

Definitely isn't an issue of technique.


I like your avatar very much, who are they? :sly:

Selena Gomez.

Throw as much weight at the back as possible it got 65-35 standard and after it 56-46 I think.
Thats what I did on my Mustang and it drifts like a dream now ;)

I didn't want to add any weight to it at it's already pretty damn heavy even with the Stage 3 weight kit. I'll try this though.

Try 12 6 springs, always gets rid of my understeer!

I'll give this a try too.

I have no clue about what you've done to the car but I'm going to start off with shaving as much weight off the car as possible for easier weight shifts. Secondly a bit of toe-in on the rear wouldn't hurt the car as well as a few degrees of camber on each wheel. It's personal preference on the springs and dampers but I normally set my rear harder than the front. Finally, set your normal brake bias towards the rear of about a 5/7-8-9.

Try experimenting with the LSD, maybe a locked diff could work in this situation? If not, try a 2 way or the default settings for a stock mechanical diff.

Hope that helps!

Weight is as low as it'll go. I have negative .05 in the back and .25 in the front. Camber is 3.2 in front and .7 in the back. I don't know my spring rates off the top of my head but the rear end is always stiffer on all my drift cars. And the brakes are set to 3/7. My LSD is set for 60/60/60 since I don't fully tune my drift cars. I set them around the high 300's to mid 400's depending on how comfortable I am with the car and how it handles. For instance, my RGT has almost 500hp and I can link entire tracks with it, yet my 135i has low 400's and I have to fight the thing around a track.
 
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The high rear spring rate might be your problem. You generally want lower spring rate in the rear than front for drifting. If the spring rate in the rear is too high, you won't be able to transfer weight, and the car won't want to kick out. This can also happen if you lower it too much.

Also, if you find the car is being unpredictable, like the weight unsettles in the middle of what seemed like a smooth drift, try removing any toe you have on it and/or reducing camber. If that doesn't work, it might be bottoming out and you might need to raise it a bit. Any of those 3 when set incorrectly can cause unpredictable behavior.
 
pergatory
The high rear spring rate might be your problem. You generally want lower spring rate in the rear than front for drifting. If the spring rate in the rear is too high, you won't be able to transfer weight, and the car won't want to kick out. This can also happen if you lower it too much.

Also, if you find the car is being unpredictable, like the weight unsettles in the middle of what seemed like a smooth drift, try removing any toe you have on it and/or reducing camber. If that doesn't work, it might be bottoming out and you might need to raise it a bit. Any of those 3 when set incorrectly can cause unpredictable behavior.

My toe is -.15 in the front and .05 in the back and camber is 2.7 in the front and 1.2 in the back. I never go ver 1.0 in the back so I can keep some traction but since I was getting too much I raised it a bit. Spring rate is 10 and 6 now which works well and height is still -25 on both sides. It still understeers a bit but not as bad. It's actually driftable now but once you get speed going, the front loses grip and you have to steer in really hard and kick the back out as far as possible, then redine it so the wheels stop spinning and you can straighten out again. It's an insane dance, which shouldn't be happening, but it is.
 
squirlybmx
My toe is -.15 in the front and .05 in the back and camber is 2.7 in the front and 1.2 in the back. I never go ver 1.0 in the back so I can keep some traction but since I was getting too much I raised it a bit. Spring rate is 10 and 6 now which works well and height is still -25 on both sides. It still understeers a bit but not as bad. It's actually driftable now but once you get speed going, the front loses grip and you have to steer in really hard and kick the back out as far as possible, then redine it so the wheels stop spinning and you can straighten out again. It's an insane dance, which shouldn't be happening, but it is.

Try raising ride height.
Tip: not every car needs to be dropped on its ass.
 
I didn't want to add any weight to it at it's already pretty damn heavy even with the Stage 3 weight kit. I'll try this though.

He's talking about transferring some of the cars weight to the rear of the car not adding any. That way the front end would be lighter
 
PM me. I drift the mustang. I'll share my tune with you. There are certain tricks not a lot of people are aware of.
 
LVracerGT
PM me. I drift the mustang. I'll share my tune with you. There are certain tricks not a lot of people are aware of.

Like what? Ill bet you my lfa that anything you say is either not true or I know it.
 
He's talking about transferring some of the cars weight to the rear of the car not adding any. That way the front end would be lighter

You have to add weight in order to move it back. Having 0 ballast and moving it to the back wouldn't accomplish anything.

PM me. I drift the mustang. I'll share my tune with you. There are certain tricks not a lot of people are aware of.

Will do.

Try raising ride height.
Tip: not every car needs to be dropped on its ass.

Form>Function :sly:

Like what? Ill bet you my lfa that anything you say is either not true or I know it.

Ladies, Ladies, calm it down a bit.
 
squirlybmx
You have to add weight in order to move it back. Having 0 ballast and moving it to the back wouldn't accomplish anything.

Will do.

Form>Function :sly:

Ladies, Ladies, calm it down a bit.

I suppose what im trying to get at is even just raising it by 1 or 2 mm *or whatever the units are* can sometimes dramatically improve how the car responds during transfers and entries while still keeping the dropped look.
Im no mechanic or anything like that just had alot of trial and error tuning drift cars on the g27
 
You have to add weight in order to move it back. Having 0 ballast and moving it to the back wouldn't accomplish anything.

My bad, but that car has really front biased weight distribution I thought you would already added a little weight
 
Like what? Ill bet you my lfa that anything you say is either not true or I know it.

Quite an unnecessary post. I have a lot of real life experience with the Mustang. I'm not trying to play games, but I'm pretty competitive, and I currently host a Formula Drift championship here on GTP, so I'm not going to share my tune publicly at this time. There is a particular part when put on the Mustang replaces a key component in the way the car handles, and completely ruins it. In fact it adds loads of understeer, but that's all I'm going to say for now.

My drift tune has almost no understeer (nothing that can't be mended with my right foot), and can hold near full lock drifts with little effort. Everyone I share my tune with is usually dumbfounded because it's a very unique tune. I can hold more speed when at extreme angles, and also have more control over transitions. I even had one person tell me "it's nuts how quick you can transition from one extreme to another without losing it." Btw I use a DFGT, just in case the OP uses a controller. It's a worlds difference between the two.

Reading back through some of the responses one thing I will say, my tune has no ride height adjustments. They're still set at 0 front and rear.
 
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Quite an unnecessary post. I have a lot of real life experience with the Mustang. I'm not trying to play games, but I'm pretty competitive, and I currently host a Formula Drift championship here on GTP, so I'm not going to share my tune publicly at this time. There is a particular part when put on the Mustang replaces a key component in the way the car handles, and completely ruins it. In fact it adds loads of understeer, but that's all I'm going to say for now.

My drift tune has almost no understeer (nothing that can't be mended with my right foot), and can hold near full lock drifts with little effort. Everyone I share my tune with is usually dumbfounded because it's a very unique tune. I can hold more speed when at extreme angles, and also have more control over transitions. I even had one person tell me "it's nuts how quick you can transition from one extreme to another without losing it." Btw I use a DFGT, just in case the OP uses a controller. It's a worlds difference between the two.

Reading back through some of the responses one thing I will say, my tune has no ride height adjustments. They're still set at 0 front and rear.

You obviously haven't met monsterGAUZ. Everybody's mustang (as far as I know) handle perfectly, including mine. When you fiddle with different cars you know what effects what. How are you to know that other people don't know that a certain something on a car makes a big difference?

It's most likely the dampers, anti-roll bars, toe setup, or LSD. But your probably describing the toe or LSD anyway, but I'll leave you to think your the only one that knows.
 
You obviously haven't met monsterGAUZ. Everybody's mustang (as far as I know) handle perfectly, including mine. When you fiddle with different cars you know what effects what. How are you to know that other people don't know that a certain something on a car makes a big difference?

It's most likely the dampers, anti-roll bars, toe setup, or LSD. But your probably describing the toe or LSD anyway, but I'll leave you to think your the only one that knows.

I have met monster, he has showed up to an event or two that I've held.

Let me clarify, and knock you off your high horse, that I never said that "I know something no one else does" or was trying to make it seem like I have some big secret. I said there are tricks to the Mustang some people aren't aware of, and that because of the competition I'm currently hosting, I won't be sharing my tune publicly at this time.

Obviously the OP's Mustang (or whatever car) isn't handling perfectly, otherwise this thread wouldn't exist.

And of course the dampers, anti-roll bars, and toe matter. As they would on any other tune whether it be drift or grip.

You're shots at me are not necessary or warranted. So I would appreciate if you would stop accusing me of something I never said.
 
Look, I didn't mean for this to turn into What it is. I took it that you thought nobody else knew your trick. Every car is different to tune. For instance, on the tvr Tuscan, if you add toe it would understeer like a pig with no front legs. But there is no secret to tuning a car. Of course a lot of people wouldn't know your "secret", but if you look at it from another angle a lot of people don't know how to tune, and as well as that, the people that don't know how to tune are usually some of tim best drifters.

Sorry for coming on strongly, I didn't mean to, but my point is that there are no tricks to tuning a drift car.
 
Well once that tune is up for grabs, I'm gonna need it lol. And I use a G27 so your tune would transfer over perfectly.
 
Just reverse your toe and camber. Also make LSD 60/60/5. When you reverse it to high numbers at the back it causes the back to whip around and the 5 for LSD braking is so the brakes don't lock to quick. You may want to bump the camber and toe numbers up until it turns exactly how you want it.
 
Well once that tune is up for grabs, I'm gonna need it lol. And I use a G27 so your tune would transfer over perfectly.

Just PM me and I will share it with you. I just don't want to post it on the thread for everyone right now because there are still 2 rounds left in my drift championship and I'm already gearing up for a second season. Just please don't send it to anyone who asks for it. I share it with my friends, and sometimes strangers that are struggling.

Also I want to point out, there have been a few times my tune doesn't work for individuals because of different drifting styles. I like to initiate early with small feints/e-brake and immediately go for extreme angles, using the torque to push me through the corners in higher gears.
 
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