Motor City Tunes

Motor city hami.... Your a legend.
Your advice is in clear, concise English. It all makes perfect sense too.
From the moment I read how you test your cars I knew I was to to a winner with your thread.
I will attempt to tame my carbon R with my new gained knowledge now.
Keep up the good work.
 
Haven't played with a ZZII yet.

As for the C4, rally is my weakness. I haven't quite figured them out. I can improve from stock settings, but just haven't found that fast dirt setup. Probably because I don't really like rally and have spent little time on it.

Will be posting a Yellow Bird tune soon. Busy last couple of weeks.
 
I think I might have tamed the Viper GTS '02. At least, I found a tune setup that works for me...

Upgrades:
Racing Soft tires
Everything in the Body/Chassis upgraded
Stage 3 engine tuning, and ECU tuning
Sports Intake Manifold
Racing Air Filter
Everything upgraded fully for exhaust
Supercharger
Fully Customizable Transmission
Everything upgraded fully for Drivetrain
Fully Customizable Suspension

Tuning:

Transmission Top Speed: 261
Limited Slip Differential:
-Initial Torque: 15
-Acceleration Sensitivity: 50
-Braking Sensitivity: 40
Suspension:
-Ride Height Adjustment: -15/-15
-Spring Rate: 13.0/11.0
-Dampers(Extension): 8/7
-Dampers(Compression): 7/6
-Anti-Roll Bars: 4/3
Wheel Alignment:
-Camber Angle(-): 3.0/2.5
-Toe Angle: -0.15/+0.20
Brake Balance: 6/7

The only aero part I installed was the front kit. I didn't buy the rear kit, or any rear wing.

So like I said, this works for me. I still think it could probably be tuned even more, but this is what I came up with after using MotorCity's guide here, and from reading what it says in-game about how to tune the car. So it's probably not the best it could be yet...

Anyway, if anyone wants to try this tuning out and see if it might be a winner, go right ahead. I'd like to see if anyone else has luck with this car. Like MotorCity said before, this car is tricky to tune...
 
I will play with this tune a little more over the weekend. I'd also like to try your tune. Your tune is consistent with the way I approach things. I think I had this car on sport softs and not quite as high on the LSD, but maybe I need to go higher.

I want to post these tunes by Sunday.
Refined the RM Corvette LT1 - way fast now
Yellow Bird 450hp tune
Viper
 
Thanks for taking the time to put together the info on the LSD. Your tips and instruction made one of the least understood areas of the game (for me at least) and turned into one heck of a tool. I have a Shelby GT350 Tune I want to send over in case there are any other beginners like me trying to bring it together. I'd appreciate any feed back you have on the car!
 
As others have stated I love your tuning advice/guidelines. Have you ever explored the camber and toe settings more? I'm grinding the indy 500 in A-spec since it gives like 750k xp. I'm using the Nissan R89 race car and would like to improve my overall tire wear with these settings. Right now I'm getting 21-22 laps before I have to pit for tires, and still have way over a quarter tank of fuel. I get the same laps running hard or softs so just running the softs. By the time I pit the driver side front tire is comepletely gone, the passenger side left looks about 1-2 laps from being gone, passenger side rear is slightly better looking than the passenger front, and finally the driver side rear is about 50%. Not sure if thats useful so I threw it out there. I'm looking for an idea of what to start doing with these settings to get it tuned in for this track and squeeze more laps from a set of tires. Thanks.
 
Frankly I am not finding much difference in camber settings. The game guidelines hint that comfort tires need less camber, sport tires need mid level and racing tires benefit from more. GT4 in game advice said as much as 3 to 4 degrees could be used. I tend to put sport tires between 2.0 and 2.5 and racing tires between 2.5 and 3.0. I really have noticed very little difference in handling between any of these and very, very little difference in lap time.

I do play with other settings to balance front/rear grip.
Sway bars - higher number for less grip and lower for more grip.

Spring rate is also key - higher less grip and lower more grip.

Dampers - always set near the spring rate. If spring rate is half way across the bar, dampers should be in the same area, half way across the bar. Even compression and rebound to make one end of the car looser. More spread between compression (lighter) and rebound (always heavier than compression) to get a grip gain on one end of the car. Usually use only one or two numbers difference between compression and rebound. In some cases, usually when I want the nose to set and stay more compressed through the corners, I will be 3 numbers apart.

Also play with toe settings. I see only minor differences in front toe settings. Rear toe seems to produce bigger gains. FF cars I use toe out in rear. All other cars, I prefer zero rear toe, but cars that fight for rear grip, I will add more to stabilize the rear of the car from mid corner off.
 
I should also note that when I set up a car, it seems pretty solid on all tracks except for Nurburgh Ring - long course. I find that I need to raise the ride height, like 10 to 15 numbers above zero and soften the springs/dampers. The track is so bumpy that running a hard race setup just isn't as fast. If the car is fast at all other tracks, I don't mess with any other setting changes for Nurburgh - just ride hight, springs and dampers.
 
Well nice read but you didnt touch base on tire wear, I didnt ask how to improve lap times. I have improved my own tire wear without changing driving style by tuning. Ill post something once I think Its as good as it gets, currently plus five laps better, zero camber and some tune to toe.
 
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You are not going to get a set of tires to last for an entire tank of fuel. Half a tank is about right. Basically all you can do to extend for maybe one or two extra laps is get the front/rear balance of the car better so that all tires wear out at similar rates. On Indy's oval, the outside tires will wear out faster and there is very little you can do about that. Same happens in real life on ovals. You can try to balance so that the outside front and rear both wear at a similar pace. On cars like the R89, Audi R8, Toyota One, etc. I sometimes have to use one degree harder tire on one end of the car to compensate for this tire wear issue. In your case, I would try racing medium on the front and racing soft on the rear, for example.
 
Been busy at work, then was sick this past weekend. I will get more tunes posted.

Have new tunes to post
69 GT 40
WRX '10
and others.. can't remember right now.

Two that I am just not happy with, but i probably need to just post. The Yellow Bird and the Viper. I like where I am at with them compared to other posted tunes, but just don't totally like them.
 
New tunes posted and a few updates. See the opening post.

New tunes:
WRX Sti '10
Lotus Elise 111
Mercedes CLK touring Car online tune
Minolta Toyota 88C-V
Ferrari 430 Scuderia
Integra Type R Race Mod
Honda Civic Type R

Refined tunes:
Corvette ZR1 Race Mod
Mustang Mach 1 maxed out
Ford GT '06
Ford GT '05
Miata '07 maxed out
 
A question about spring rate: Do you typically adjust from the stock values to adjust for a specific problem or do you have somewhat of a rule of thumb based on the weight of the car versus the ride height? Trying to figure out where to initially set my spring rates b/c it would seem heavier cars initially need heavier springs and vice versa...
 
Let me start off by saying your tuning advice has helped me out tremendously. Im just startig out in my GT5 career and i've played all the gt games but never really got into the tuning hard core so besides lowering and adjusting the trans for high speed course's i dont know anything else about tuning. I just bought my first car in the game a miata. I had done some basic tuning with the money i had left so nothing big. I had done my licences test, some seasonal events and lots of online racing before reading your info. Having earned some cash i headed to the tuning shop and bought all the necessary parts and just pluged in your numbers for the FR layout. Wow out of the box it was a different car. I had run the first two sunday cup races before your tuning. Its great. I only notice one issue, in a corner usually a slower one that is tight the car seems to jump like a kart, any suggestions on how to fix the jump aspect of it? Im assuming it has to do with the spring rates but im not sure? Thanks again for the great info.
 
e10rice
Let me start off by saying your tuning advice has helped me out tremendously. Im just startig out in my GT5 career and i've played all the gt games but never really got into the tuning hard core so besides lowering and adjusting the trans for high speed course's i dont know anything else about tuning. I just bought my first car in the game a miata. I had done some basic tuning with the money i had left so nothing big. I had done my licences test, some seasonal events and lots of online racing before reading your info. Having earned some cash i headed to the tuning shop and bought all the necessary parts and just pluged in your numbers for the FR layout. Wow out of the box it was a different car. I had run the first two sunday cup races before your tuning. Its great. I only notice one issue, in a corner usually a slower one that is tight the car seems to jump like a kart, any suggestions on how to fix the jump aspect of it? Im assuming it has to do with the spring rates but im not sure? Thanks again for the great info.
Click to expand...

Could be the LSD settings. They could be too high for the power. I have been playing with a '04 Miata lately and I am at 12 initial torque, 10 Accel and 5 decel. I also have a '89 Miata from the premium dealership and have the LSD turned all of the way down 5/5/5.

Also check out this LSD thread that I started that goes into more detail about fine tuning an LSD.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=196383
 
phone
Do your tunes work with a wheel? I notist that all your tunes are by the controler.

thanks phone.
Click to expand...

I have friends with the wheel who use my tunes. You may have to adjust the LSD to fit your driving style and any differences with the wheel. Try a few and let me know.
 
Three new tunes posted in the opening post.

McLaren MP4-12C (pdf 8)
Murcielago LP 640-4 Superveloce '09 (pdf 8)
Raybrig NSX '06 (pdf 8)

Let me know if you like them or if you make tweaks that you think make them faster.

Enjoy!

MCH
 
When testing your MP4-12C tune on racing softs at the Tokio race of the Dream Car Championship I made an interesting observation. At first I forgot to apply the -35 weight distribution and used 0 instead. I found the 0 distribution to be the better drive and a few tenth faster too. The rear is a little loose under braking though. Unfortunately I can't check it's behavior online currently.

Your LSD settings for that car are awesome. It gave me some nice inspiration, thanks!
 
I like you tune. Thanks MCT
but I think 40/65's downforce is the better than 40/60 in Nissan Suer GT Car tunes
anyway 40/65 get more higher PP :)
 

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