I've always used automatic for simplicity's sake, but recenty I tried out manual. I thought it was a lot of fun, and I definitely felt like I was accelerating faster and avoiding going into lower gears when I didn't want to, which helped my times. But I also am not really sure when one is supposed to downshift. Is there any rule of thumb to this? I think if I could get downshifting down, then I'd have some good times. Thanks guys.
Need help learning to drive manual
- Thread starter L_Peter
- 32 comments
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- 1,018
- David-s13-240
I started using manual in video games when I was 8. 6 years later and I don't even think of when to upshift or down shift. My subconcious takes care of it. What I usually do is familiarize my self with the track. Then you'll know when you're going to be revving low or high. In an inicredibly hypothetical situation. So if you're at 6,000 RPMs in say... 3rd gear at about 90mph with an 8,000 RPM redline going into a hair pin at infineon (the last corner) you would have to slow down to about 45mph. So you slowdown to about 75 or so and you would be around 4,000 RPMs. You down shift to 2nd gear and you would probably be around redline(8k rpm) then you keep slowing down and if you don't feel it going, then you have to downshift again. It becomes second nature after a couple of months.
👍 Hope it helps.
👍 Hope it helps.- 235
I am one of those who used automatic for quite a while in the game, but recently have switched and seen the benefits of using a manual gearbox. Whenever I'm driving a particular car, I can glance and take note of the speed that means I need to upshift, and so when I brake to go into a corner, upon going below that upshift speed, I change down into the lower gear. This ensures that the car is neither over-revving or in too low a rev band, and that acceleration from the corner is instant. After a few weeks or months of using manual in-game, the whole process will become second nature to you, and you'll find yourself cutting tenths off in certain corners where automatic would've changed you up or down at the wrong time. Hope this helps a bit.
Joe
Joe
- 3,210
- GTP_Thiele (PSP only)
- nope
I always used Automatic up until a few years ago (before i got GT4, when i was about 10 probably) but when i started using manual it didn't take long to get used to it, i still shift back too early sometimes. Also i still use auto on some games like Colin McRae Rally.
Also, a couple of years ago, i started using the right analog stick to accelerate and brake, now that's natural too, it's more accurate than the X button somehow...
Also, a couple of years ago, i started using the right analog stick to accelerate and brake, now that's natural too, it's more accurate than the X button somehow...
- 235
I STILL don't know how you could possibly use the right analog stick to accelerate and decelerate....It just doesn't seem very easy to me, I always end up moving it to the right and left as if it is determining the steering of the car. However, I imagine its how you say, that after a few months of practising and perservering, it becomes as natural as using the left analog stick to steer, and its something you do instinctively.
Manual, I assure you, L_Peter, is much easier than using the right analog stick for acceleration.
Joe
It's not hard. Just slow down to what ever speed you're comfortable with for your turn, and then shift into the appropriate gear.
Once you get that down pat, you can start to figure out what gear will keep you in the power-band out of the corner. Don't worry about the rev-limiter, you'll get past it after a while.
Once you get that down pat, you can start to figure out what gear will keep you in the power-band out of the corner. Don't worry about the rev-limiter, you'll get past it after a while.
- 1,250
I listen to the engine, when the pitch starts getting low, I downshift.
- 40,874
An easy way I learned how to do it from Need For Speed III (that works just as well in any other game I used it in) is to upshift at multiples of 10 or 5. If 3rd gear tops out at 97 MPH, upshift at 95 or 90. Then when you get to about 10-15 MPH below where you shifted, it is time to downshift. That way you remember roughly where you need to downshift to get back into the power band, and after a while it becomes so natural that you don't need to do so anymore. Naturally for big torque cars you need to modify this a bit, but you usually shift less with them anyways.
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- 3,210
- GTP_Thiele (PSP only)
- nope
It's the same as learning to use the left analog stick, when i did use the X and square buttons, i always ended up pressing both at the same time, and accidently hitting the brake whenever i paused, i still have to use the X button in some games, and most of the older ones though....
- 5,494
- Melbourne, Living the dream
- Aldo_GTP
for downshifting on the tachometer there is a red number (telling you what gear you are in) when it flashes you downshift
it helped me when i was new to manual shifting but after a while shifting feels natural
as for the right anologue stick discussion, i dont use it because i like to "left foot" brake (when you break whilst still on the throttle)
hope that helped
it helped me when i was new to manual shifting but after a while shifting feels natural
as for the right anologue stick discussion, i dont use it because i like to "left foot" brake (when you break whilst still on the throttle)
hope that helped
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
for downshifting on the tachometer there is a red number (telling you what gear you are in) when it flashes you downshift
it helped me when i was new to manual shifting but after a while shifting feels natural
as for the right anologue stick discussion, i dont use it because i like to "left foot" brake (when you break whilst still on the throttle)
hope that helped
No, when it flashes, you're supposed to brake.
I keep that shut off.
Just go by feel, don't downshift if the car's still in the powerband. Some cars need LOTS less shifting than others, some need to be kept on boil.
Just get to know the car and it will come naturally.
- 5,494
- Melbourne, Living the dream
- Aldo_GTP
well yes, but, it flashes to tell you to break and it tells you which gear it thinks you should go down toNo, when it flashes, you're supposed to brake.
👍
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
- 24,344
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
It's often wrong for advanced drivers, but for a general rule, if you're just learning a track, it is in fact quite good. No need to be shirty about it.
As a rule of thumb, you'll get a lot more effective braking in game if you downshift steadily, beginning just after you start to brake, and continuing at evenly-spaced intervals as you continue to brake. You should arrive at the recommended (or chosen) gear just as you let off the brakes. Changing down too quickly can definitely unsettle the car on approach.
As a rule of thumb, you'll get a lot more effective braking in game if you downshift steadily, beginning just after you start to brake, and continuing at evenly-spaced intervals as you continue to brake. You should arrive at the recommended (or chosen) gear just as you let off the brakes. Changing down too quickly can definitely unsettle the car on approach.
PARAGON GT
Premium
- 1,018
- Motor City
- R MK XXV
I agree with what Duke stated.
Start braking first, then as your RPM's drop, start down shifting.
Depending on the car, and how the trans is set, I usually watch the tac. and down shift when the needle drops somewhere inbetween 0 and redline.
Each car will have a particular feel to it like how far past redline you can push it before it bounces off the limiter, how fast the tac climbs and at what RPM's you are producing the most power. There are cars out there that generate their peak HP well before the engines redline.
The Plymouth Cuda comes to mind on this. Its peak HP is actually generated around a couple clicks before the engine redlines. And anything past its peak hp output point the car actually looses momentum as it accelerates. You will continue to accelerate past that point to redline, but just not as fast.
Start braking first, then as your RPM's drop, start down shifting.
Depending on the car, and how the trans is set, I usually watch the tac. and down shift when the needle drops somewhere inbetween 0 and redline.
Each car will have a particular feel to it like how far past redline you can push it before it bounces off the limiter, how fast the tac climbs and at what RPM's you are producing the most power. There are cars out there that generate their peak HP well before the engines redline.
The Plymouth Cuda comes to mind on this. Its peak HP is actually generated around a couple clicks before the engine redlines. And anything past its peak hp output point the car actually looses momentum as it accelerates. You will continue to accelerate past that point to redline, but just not as fast.
- 58
- powerhouse-trap
you know that little red number advising you whicj gear to use for a corner isnt always correct.
for example Apricot hill in my worked Nismo 350Z the long sweeping left then the esses im told to use 2nd but i fly through in 3rd while the others are left in 2nd.
for example Apricot hill in my worked Nismo 350Z the long sweeping left then the esses im told to use 2nd but i fly through in 3rd while the others are left in 2nd.
- 3,401
- Pennsylvania
- Darkdeeds427
Tree'd, dammit.
He is correct, however. Some cars, especially the older muscle cars from the '60's and '70's, produce all of their torque below 4500 rpm's. The 'Cuda is by far the best example, as aaforementioned. If you're trying a new car out and want to learn where to match shift points with peak power, your best bet is to check out your tuning window before driving. Pressing Start (Or select? I forget which) Anyway, it brings a nice big view of your peak power and torque values and can show where best you may need to shift. As a general rule of thumb, shift later with revvy four cylinders like Honda's, and shift earlier with low-grunt V8 cars.Cheers,
Jetboy
mafia_boy
(Banned)
- 5,570
- GTP_Mafiaboy
I use a slightly different method to you guys. When I get a car and tune it or run it stock, I always find out what the cutout speed is of the first few gears (1st-3rd or 1st-4th) so that I don't have to worry about how many revs I need to drop down to. If I get under or on the cutout speed, I know I can drop down a gear. If I'm upshifting however, I do look at the tacho.
- 724
- PSN?!? What PSN?!?
once you manage undershifting and overshifting and get into the habit of timing your shifts perfectly you'll be an ace at manual and gear shifting. it comes as natural as it does in real life.
only time i look over at the tach is when im wanting to kno what speed im traveling, like in real life driving once you get the hang of a manual and the shift times of shift points you do it off ear and not eye, meaning i hear when to up or downshift instead looking and waiting to see.
- 3,174
- Pinckney, MI
- NISMO_S13
- If I had the money
mafia_boy
(Banned)
- 5,570
- GTP_Mafiaboy
But when you first race your car after tuning a gearbox as I do, the ratios are all different so the speed for redline is a lot higher for me. That's why I look at what the speed is. Not to mention I can work out from that formula what gear/rpm I need to be in for different corners compared to the stock version.
- 23,800
- Philippines
I usually drive by ear.
Has worked for me for fifteen years.
Of course, with these new turbodiesels out, it can become problematic.
The first and last speeding ticket I've gotten in my entire life was while driving a cruddy little Hyundai supermini with a common rail turbodiesel.
Drove it by ear on a long, loooong road-trip down a heavily enforced highway. Taking it quite easy.
Got pulled up at the exit and told I was flashed by the radar-cop and that I was speeding. Seems that at only 2500 rpm, I was actually doing 80 mph.
On the bright side, with the six speed Focus Diesel I've had on loan for the past two weeks, I can cruise at 70-80 mph without eliciting a peep from my wife... who cocks an eyebrow at me whenever I go over fifty in my gasoline car...
Has worked for me for fifteen years.
Of course, with these new turbodiesels out, it can become problematic.
The first and last speeding ticket I've gotten in my entire life was while driving a cruddy little Hyundai supermini with a common rail turbodiesel.
Drove it by ear on a long, loooong road-trip down a heavily enforced highway. Taking it quite easy.
Got pulled up at the exit and told I was flashed by the radar-cop and that I was speeding. Seems that at only 2500 rpm, I was actually doing 80 mph.
On the bright side, with the six speed Focus Diesel I've had on loan for the past two weeks, I can cruise at 70-80 mph without eliciting a peep from my wife... who cocks an eyebrow at me whenever I go over fifty in my gasoline car...
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
I usually drive by cruise control. Haven't had a speeding ticket since '96. Then again, if I had a sports car (instead of a truck) maybe this would be a different story. Last time I got pulled over was in '01, and that's because my muffler was rusted and it constituted a noise violation.
Haven't had a speeding ticket since '96. Then again, if I had a sports car (instead of a truck) maybe this would be a different story. Last time I got pulled over was in '01, and that's because my muffler was rusted and it constituted a noise violation.
- 441
As has been stated before, I drive by ear usually in GT4. After a while it becomes second nature no matter what car I am in. I also look at the tacho at various times, but mostly when I am drifting to determine if I need to change up/down (I've only just learned to drift so this will probably change with more experience).
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
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