Need Help Tuning? Ask Here!

  • Thread starter ryzno
  • 299 comments
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Some of you may have noticed, but if not, I'm back and I'd like to say a few things here. Really quick to any newbies out there.

For those of you who lurk, catch me online @kttheman001
For those of you on the forum, feel free to PM me or message right on this thread.
For those of you who want to get a grasp of it all but can't quite get a feel for it when it's typed up, feel free to search up my YouTube as it's the same as my gamer tag. Should provide you guys with a decent visual and as always I comment back.

For all the old guys I used to run with, come out on the track one of these days, let's catch-up :cheers::gtpflag::P;)
 
I have a zr1 as I cross finish line at Indy shift light comes on in 6th but their is still ppl that have at most a car-car and half what an I doin wrong I am 1-2-3
 
Can someone explain me why the NSX is more faster than de nissan 300zx??!

Nsx without nos do: 10.1s! w/nos:8.866s!
300zx without do: 9.4s w/nos:9.080s!

And explain me why the hell the nsx havent twin turbos? Cz the real car have twinturbos.

Is there something on the weigth of both? Cz 300zx is 200kg more heavy but 400hp more power ( also 400 nm of torque too).

Is there a trick for help a car like 300zx to dont burnout the wheels? Cz he spin like the devil...

Thx a lot from now for ur answers ;)

XxBlindhunterxX
 
NSX launches hard because it is a MR Platform. With NOS its going to launch harder and pull.
300ZX struggles for traction without NOS so NOS just amplifies that issue.

No Factory NSX had turbos.
 
Ok Im wrong about turbos.

You have to know that the MR traction is: engine in the middle and rear traction. Isnt so diferent of the FR. The only think is the relation of the weigth between front and rear will be a little diferent... But for that u can use the ballast for fix that diference... I realise that the 300zx even with ballast and the same relation of weigth, still spin the wheels so, the **** is about weigth, no the position of the engine, no the driving wheels. In all the cases the 300zx is about 200kg more heavy so that is the problem of the car... And I say that because when u pick the 90' NSX (T3.0 version 95-97 I think) u will have the same problem of the 300zx cz their weight is about 1500kg of factory, also the times of 400m and 0-62mph.
 
Ok Im wrong about turbos.
You have to know that the MR traction is: engine in the middle and rear traction. Isnt so diferent of the FR. The only think is the relation of the weigth between front and rear will be a little diferent... But for that u can use the ballast for fix that diference... I realise that the 300zx even with ballast and the same relation of weigth, still spin the wheels so, the **** is about weigth, no the position of the engine, no the driving wheels. In all the cases the 300zx is about 200kg more heavy so that is the problem of the car... And I say that because when u pick the 90' NSX (T3.0 version 95-97 I think) u will have the same problem of the 300zx cz their weight is about 1500kg of factory, also the times of 400m and 0-62mph.

Your theory of ballast to the rear is correct, and you can even try and match the weight distribution of the FR to be the same as the MR. MR cars just grip ALOT more than a FR car that is made to have the same weight distribution as the MR car.

You could even go to the extent of finding a FR car lighter than the NSX with similar power and torque. Then add weight to the rear to match the weight distribution and total weight. So now you have a FR and MR car with very similar if not equal weight, power, torque and weight distribution. The MR is still going to out launch the FR. It's just how it is modelled in GT6.

Generally a MR car is going to have wider tires on the rear compared to a FR car because from the factory the car is more rear biased in weight so it needs a wider tire to neutralise the handling. GT6 is probably modelling their physics based off details like this.
 
A car with an engine in the Mid mounted position is much nicer to the centrifugal force of gravity. Plus more weight where the driven wheels are is going to help it reduce wheelspin and increase traction. This is a car physics fact. An FR will have more wheelspin because most of its weight will always be at the front. Because the engine is at the front. It is the engine which is causing where the neccessary weight different and imbalance occurs.
 
Yeah of corse... And that is why I propose put the ballast at the rear of the 300zx and I realise that even with all 200kg plus on the rear u get an important 47:53 relation but also a weight of 1408kg, that is almost a half of a car more than the Nsx...

I dont know if I am expresing my self well... Cz my main lenguage isnt english LOL
 
I also try to avoid the wheels spin problem setting the NOS on a low percent like 50 or 40% but the time of the 400m wasnt better than my previous post here...

Now I think a little different about the 300zx... You know its a car much less considerate by fans against the skyline... This last takes all the credits just cz his 4wd... But just a few knows that exist a second car, a second family of cars that in the 70' save nissan. The Z's family that I am in love.

Now days peoples forget that was a second car of nissan in the category of the supercar of the 90'.
 
Yeah of corse... And that is why I propose put the ballast at the rear of the 300zx and I realise that even with all 200kg plus on the rear u get an important 47:53 relation but also a weight of 1408kg, that is almost a half of a car more than the Nsx...

I dont know if I am expresing my self well... Cz my main lenguage isnt english LOL

for cars with abnormal weight distributions, not all can be fixed by just adding weight. It works for some cars but not others. All you can do is offset the ballast position to the rear and make the springs hard at the back to help weight transfer as best as possible. Use high ish flip but not too high. You need to redline 6th gear at the shadow.

If too much wheelspin in initial gears. The best you can do to fix this is use a 2 or 3 gear launch and make 123 initial gears long. OR on higher flip use 123 retro launch. And place all 3 gears left. You could maybe try a lil weight to the back but not much so as to change or lower the PP of the car and end up changing the weight distribution as this surely will make it worse. Maybe use harder dampers on the rear wheels too for cars that don't launch hard.

Some cars benefit from weight and lower PP performance others not. Some cars benefit from weight and raise PP performance. Hope i helped |:)
 
for cars with abnormal weight distributions, not all can be fixed by just adding weight. It works for some cars but not others. All you can do is offset the ballast position to the rear and make the springs hard at the back to help weight transfer as best as possible. Use high ish flip but not too high. You need to redline 6th gear at the shadow.

If too much wheelspin in initial gears. The best you can do to fix this is use a 2 or 3 gear launch and make 123 initial gears long. OR on higher flip use 123 retro launch. And place all 3 gears left. You could maybe try a lil weight to the back but not much so as to change or lower the PP of the car and end up changing the weight distribution as this surely will make it worse. Maybe use harder dampers on the rear wheels too for cars that don't launch hard.

Some cars benefit from weight and lower PP performance others not. Some cars benefit from weight and raise PP performance. Hope i helped |:)
Sometimes just a 2nd gear rideout or 2-3 start can also work. And for some cars even a 3rd gear rideout.

Just remember this: Weight affects pull too! If you have weight on, it generally will not pull as much BUT it will make you launch better IF you have right weight for your flip and gear settings.
 
Hey guys... hoping I could get some help.

I have a 71 Cuda. After doing some lurking here, I figured I'd try to drag tune it myself. I did the standard trans flip, but no matter where I flipped it or how I set the gears it would be a miracle if I trapped at 120. So on a whim I did... sort-of a "reverse" flip.

I set the final gear to the LOWEST point, and set the top speed to MAX, then set the rest of the gears as normal. From there, I set the final gear to max to make the gears as short as possible...and I was astounded by the results. The car went from a 11.5-second car to a sub-10 car. I'm currently trapping at around 145 at the shadow.

But I still feel like I can squeeze a little more out of it... any advice? If you guys need to whole tune, I can give it to you.
 
Hey guys... hoping I could get some help.

I have a 71 Cuda. After doing some lurking here, I figured I'd try to drag tune it myself. I did the standard trans flip, but no matter where I flipped it or how I set the gears it would be a miracle if I trapped at 120. So on a whim I did... sort-of a "reverse" flip.

I set the final gear to the LOWEST point, and set the top speed to MAX, then set the rest of the gears as normal. From there, I set the final gear to max to make the gears as short as possible...and I was astounded by the results. The car went from a 11.5-second car to a sub-10 car. I'm currently trapping at around 145 at the shadow.

But I still feel like I can squeeze a little more out of it... any advice? If you guys need to whole tune, I can give it to you.

Well no offense, but that reverse flip might be passing the eyeball test but I'm telling you it's not gonna get you anywhere against anyone who knows what they're doing.
Still, kudos to you for experimenting and trying to see what works, respect for that.

My advice I can give is to try a flip where you move the flip point to the right instead of the left. Old muscle cars have such low gear boxes that most of em get goin that way.

If you still can't get it going, I'll buy one and help you out with it
 
That actually really helped. Only with a basic such setup, I'm getting similar--slightly faster--results: sub-10, 146/7 at the shadow. With a little fine tweaking I should be able to break 150. Thanks!
 
I have one i still need to tune. Add me and I'll run ya with it some time.

Let me say this here, I can't add anyone unless i do it from my ps4. I have almost 160 friends and ps3 only allows 100, so I can't request people off of that. Otherwise I would gladly add you, but my ps4 can be wonky and I'm usually on ps3 anyhow.
 
Sometimes just a 2nd gear rideout or 2-3 start can also work. And for some cars even a 3rd gear rideout.

Just remember this: Weight affects pull too! If you have weight on, it generally will not pull as much BUT it will make you launch better IF you have right weight for your flip and gear settings.

Ballast pretty much works for any gear ratios, there isn't a correct way to setup ballast for your gears but gears for your ballast is a whole other story.
 
Hey guys. New to dragging so I'm a real noob lol. Really struggling on my XKR-S transmission. Any help would be appreciated.
Nice car, tune for a 2nd gear launch. When I tuned my cars I stretched 2nd as far as I could and made the rest of my gears as short as possible. Even with short gears up top the the long second compensated and it still pulled.
 
Hey guys. New to dragging so I'm a real noob lol. Really struggling on my XKR-S transmission. Any help would be appreciated.
I have that car tuned and it runs very good. I`ll take a look at it when I get home and i`ll help you out from there.
 
I'm struggling with my el Camino
I've added 200 kg on back at 35% and have done what I can go transmission
I still get too much wheel spin I feel. Anything else I can do or is it just what's meant to happen?:confused:
 
I'm struggling with my el Camino
I've added 200 kg on back at 35% and have done what I can go transmission
I still get too much wheel spin I feel. Anything else I can do or is it just what's meant to happen?:confused:
The El camino won't ever handle very well. If you tune it to stop it wheelspinnig it'll most likely understeer massively. Ways to stop it being so tail happy are to make the rear higher than the front, softer tyres on the rear or positive rear toe.
 
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